Thanks. I think those are heavier coils than mine. Pretty sure I got the “no bull bar” coils from Jason."bullbar + winch" Tough Dog front coils
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Thanks. I think those are heavier coils than mine. Pretty sure I got the “no bull bar” coils from Jason."bullbar + winch" Tough Dog front coils
Well... in two days I'll have nothing besides blown 35 year old shocks in a haggard BMW.(unless I snag a cheap 80 series I have my eye on)
Lots of clean 80s in CA.... no rust and a few triple locked ones come up in the 3800-8000$ range. Low power and low torque... Not an issue, just do what I'm doing to my 80.
480HP LS3 and a few other goodies. This jewel may see a E-force charger before its all done...
J
View attachment 1714359 View attachment 1714360 View attachment 1714361
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Jason,
Are you still stocking rear control arms?
Yeah there's a running and in decent shape triple locked one for 4k (asking price) I might get. Drive it for a bit then use the frame/axles for the Troopy. We'll see.
That last pic is certainly interesting though...![]()
What do you gain, or am I missing the obvious?I'll be chopping the cargo area out of the 80. Making a new rear "wall" and then adding a 2 stage canopy. Box that is removable from the flat bed. All aluminum flat bed and box. Weight will only be 180# more than the cut out steel cargo area. I'll be running my 4" TourFlex tapered wire coils 660-1100# load range (soon available for the 200 series -- well 2 and 3" rear coils)
BASIC IDEA FOR MY 80... But I won't be stretching the frame like on the 70 pictured.
View attachment 1714676
Pretty close here.... except with a 4" lift and true 37s.....
![]()
What do you gain, or am I missing the obvious?
First lets get something straight I was just asking if other than potentially greater access what benefits was I not seeing? The 10" figure with lift is also perplexing as the diffs won't be up 10" unless Monster truck tires are run. Sure it looks cool but the prices I've seen are pushing 6 figures here stateside. If I had your skills and equipment I would be tempted to mod a 100 series in that way just for fun. Yep I hard camp and overland but I'm not a drawer/ shelf fan opting to not carry everything under the sun just because I can. For sure the Aussies have some great ideas and equipment but on a humorous note their toilets do swirl opposite of ours?Obvious, if you hard camp and overland from your rig.
More usable storage mainly and a larger storage as well. The standard cargo area is primarily useful from the back end and by the time you try to make drawers, racks, etc... you still only have access from the rear and a small depth area from the back seat and usually leaves the back seat unavailable for passengers. A canopy allows for full access on both sides and all the way through, not to mention a 40" wide x 8" x 60" pull out from the rear. Plus approx 10" higher ground clearance (with lift) for water and fuel tanks as well.
And for me, the pure cool factor (IMO).. I don't give a crap if anyone else thinks it is, but thousands of aussies and others can't be wrong on this design...
First lets get something straight I was just asking if other than potentially greater access what benefits was I not seeing? The 10" figure with lift is also perplexing as the diffs won't be up 10" unless Monster truck tires are run. Sure it looks cool but the prices I've seen are pushing 6 figures here stateside. If I had your skills and equipment I would be tempted to mod a 100 series in that way just for fun. Yep I hard camp and overland but I'm not a drawer/ shelf fan opting to not carry everything under the sun just because I can. For sure the Aussies have some great ideas and equipment but on a humorous note their toilets do swirl opposite of ours?
Not going to apologize because my question was just that a question not an inquisition of your post.
I'll be chopping the cargo area out of the 80. Making a new rear "wall" and then adding a 2 stage canopy. Box that is removable from the flat bed. All aluminum flat bed and box. Weight will only be 180# more than the cut out steel cargo area. I'll be running my 4" TourFlex tapered wire coils 660-1100# load range (soon available for the 200 series -- well 2 and 3" rear coils)
BASIC IDEA FOR MY 80... But I won't be stretching the frame like on the 70 pictured.
View attachment 1714676
Pretty close here.... except with a 4" lift and true 37s.....
![]()
I dig it. I've been toying with the idea of trying to get a dual cab 70 body instead of a troopy to work with and doing a tray. But I like the enclosed space of a troopy. Who knows what I'll end up with.
A 2 stage canopy/tray gives you the storage and also a flat bed for other chores when not camping etc. I've said it to you before, a troopy is awesome, but I always felt like i was driving around in a tin can, too much noise from the cargo area. I guess if it were completely built out with cabinets, couch/bed, etc.. it might change that effect.
If you wanted to work off a 100 platform, it's possible to SAS a front end from an 80 into the 100 and run 37s. There's a guy near me who has this setup - was built by someone out in WY I believe.
Then again if I was going to build an overland vehicle to use regularly outside the US I would be looking for a 60 or 70 I could start with. Minimal electronics, easy to desmog, and designed before Toyota started trying to maximize engine bay space (thus making it impossible to get to any accessories without dismantling everything).