nothing wrong with stock YAZAKI analogue Gauges , as long as senders are good too .......
yes senders will fail after a long life cycle , but how many fj60 Cluter meters
have any issues in a life time ?
i say very few ......
Tragedy on Cross Country Trip Home
- Thread starter pumbaatx
- Start date
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nothing wrong with stock YAZAKI analogue Gauges , as long as senders are good too .......
yes senders will fail after a long life cycle , but how many fj60 Cluter meters
have any issues in a life time ?
i say very few ......
If it was a head gasket or cracked head/block that was giving your white puffs of smoke it could have partially filled a cylinder when you shut the engine off. If you have time and some basic tools you can pull all the spark plugs and try to crank the engine to rule it out.
hey tommy , good morning
can u pop the hood and take a boat laod of good pin-point photos , and then
post up here in the Thread ?
sometimes a few dozen sharp eye's here in the forum can pinpoint issues
and solve problems by just doing that ..............
this would be a Solid step # 1 if i was in your shoes ,
lets all work together as the Team we are , and diagnose this Puppy Via
Live real Time Photos Tommy posts here soon ?
my Vote !
- Thread starter
- #24
It gonna be at least until next week until I can get any photos. I'll be in Alabama until the 29th and will pick the cruiser up on my way back through LA to TX. Hopefully work is light that week so I can get some photos and do some tests for yall. I appreciate the stories, they've helped me calm down from being convinced I had totally fried the motor.
g-man
SILVER Star
Is this a 60 or 62? automatic transmission? I just thought of a possibility of a bad vacuum modulator valve. This happened to me on my old Galaxie. When the modulator valve fails on an automatic transmission the transmission fluid get sucked past it and goes into the engine intake. Instantly the atf will foul the plugs causing white smoke out the exhaust and the loud "thud" of the pistons detonating out of order. The fix would be a new modulator valve, clean the vacuum line and flush the motor oil and clean or replace the spark plugs.
- Thread starter
- #26
It's a 60, 4spd MT. Is there anything wrong with cruising at 3k RPM for extended periods of time? I know that's what the Orange 55 is warning you of. Just curious.
they'll run all day at 3k. Toyota didn't design maximum HP at 3600 if they thought 3000 would kill it
g-man
SILVER Star
Orange 55 mph is cause in 80's we had a nation wide speed limit of 55 mph.
I would guess head gasket and or head damage. White puffs were coolant traveling through a cylinder and out the tailpipe. After you stopped the truck, the coolant level in the head gravity fed down towards the earth and seeped into the cylinder with a piston in low position and keeps the truck from turning over (hydrolock). None of that is a big deal. Pull the spark plugs and look at them. Then turn the motor over with no plugs in and see what comes out the spark plug holes (disconnect the top center wire from dizzy to stop any spark from happening).
Also, drain the oil into a pan and see if you have coolant in the oil.
All of that would be work required prior to taking the head off to complete the repair. If the head is damaged, you won't know until it is off. If the block is damaged, you won't know until the head is off. All of that can be done with the engine in the truck. I wouldn't pay a LandCruiser shop more than 3 or 4 hours to have the head entirely removed and troubleshooting complete.
Good luck!
Also, drain the oil into a pan and see if you have coolant in the oil.
All of that would be work required prior to taking the head off to complete the repair. If the head is damaged, you won't know until it is off. If the block is damaged, you won't know until the head is off. All of that can be done with the engine in the truck. I wouldn't pay a LandCruiser shop more than 3 or 4 hours to have the head entirely removed and troubleshooting complete.
Good luck!
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
My '93 4-Runner with the 3VZ-E has a vacuum switch on the power steering pump that's part of the idle-up system for when the steering turns hard to the right or left. Earlier this year the switch failed, sucking ATF into the intake. Two symptoms - PS fluid level dropping even w/o external leaks and white exhaust puff at start-up.
i wish we had photos ........ 
is it feasible that the P/S high pressure line from pump to box , simply ruptured
@ a flex hose section of it , from simple Age & Time wear and tear ?
then Spewing already Hot ATF / Dextron III all over the Exhaust Manifold , this creating the white smoke Tommy saw
this would fill the engine bay quickly with a super heated gas cloud that then would and could get sucked into the intake .
intern causing some drive-ability issues , if the pump ran dry at highway speed ,
how long would it last before catastrophic failure , then eventual seizing ?
i can imagine a squeal , turning into a loud angry groan very fast , and a possible
knocking sound as all the internal needle and roller / ball bearings start to meet there Certain Doom ......
@ a flex hose section of it , from simple Age & Time wear and tear ?
then Spewing already Hot ATF / Dextron III all over the Exhaust Manifold , this creating the white smoke Tommy saw
this would fill the engine bay quickly with a super heated gas cloud that then would and could get sucked into the intake .
intern causing some drive-ability issues , if the pump ran dry at highway speed ,
how long would it last before catastrophic failure , then eventual seizing ?
i can imagine a squeal , turning into a loud angry groan very fast , and a possible
knocking sound as all the internal needle and roller / ball bearings start to meet there Certain Doom ......
brian
SILVER Star
per wiki
On September 1, 1979 in a regulation that also regulated speedometer and odometer accuracy, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) required speedometers to have special emphasis on the number 55 and a maximum speed of 85mph (140km/h)
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The laws were even more ridiculous for big sports bikes. I had a 1980 GS 1000 with a speedo that only went to 80.
Luckily we had a tach otherwise how would I know the bike would go 145 with the new Kerker pipe and smooth bores.
Some idiot in congress thought if our speedos only went to 80 , we wouldn't try to go faster. By the mid 80's they were back to 160
speedos
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Seriously, that’s some funny s***. That orange line is just as G says... the speed limit years ago used to be 55. That’s all that means. Man, do I feel old!
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
And I agree w/ the others... I’m late to the party but it’s probably the HG or something w/ the cooling system. Tossing a rod wouldn’t be quiet or so I thought... Tho man, I’ve driven w/ some high stress ballsy problems in my various cars ‘It’ll get me there, just white knuckle it’ but to drive w/ a hole in the block?! Wow! I had an old ‘84 Rabbit back when I graduated hs, we drove it everywhere but after about 8 years and maybe 150k it started to get tired. Failed emissions and it would stall at 60 mph. I learned to drive very defensively. And toward the end it drove so off we figured it was only firing on 3 cylinders. I sold it for $200 w/ the failed emissions and saw it months later on the road. I loved that little car.
Late model NON-USA Spec. Metric / KPH
Note : unknown model year , but i suspect a 1983-1984 only,
model years update , similar to the & coinciding with ,
the 1983 USA-Spec. only Final model update shown above ......
this is truly nothingness then my personal holy-grail favorite in 40 series
cluster meter cosmetic's & late model design / presentation appearance
Thank You Mr. Toyoda ......
Note : unknown model year , but i suspect a 1983-1984 only,
model years update , similar to the & coinciding with ,
the 1983 USA-Spec. only Final model update shown above ......
this is truly nothingness then my personal holy-grail favorite in 40 series
cluster meter cosmetic's & late model design / presentation appearance
Thank You Mr. Toyoda ......
FishTacos
Full Globetard
Ngggggggghhhhhh....Late model NON-USA Spec. Metric / KPH
Note : unknown model year , but i suspect a 1983-1984 only,
model years update , similar to the & coinciding with ,
the 1983 USA-Spec. only Final model update shown above ......
this is truly nothingness then my personal holy-grail favorite in 40 series
cluster meter cosmetic's & late model design / presentation appearance
Thank You Mr. Toyoda ......
View attachment 2164670
View attachment 2164672
I want
Going to chime in and say my money's on head gasket or cooling system issues. I've rebuilt a handful of 2Fs at our shop and I throw away the HG that comes in our kits every time (EngineTech, etc.). A lot of machine shops cheap out with gasket kits - it's FelPro or OEM, or don't bother. The fire control rings and integrated crush areas on a majority of aftermarket gaskets are either severely lacking or non-existent, which results in coolant-combustion chamber issues, or weeping oil issues. Any other aftermarket brand usually has an issue 30-50k down the road or during loads. Constant loads at 3k RPM in hot-ish weather is enough to blow a crappy aftermarket gasket.
See if you can free-spin the engine, then try and have a block test done ASAP both at idle and at 2000rpm.
Further, if you can bring it to a REPUTABLE shop, see if they can hook up an exhaust gas analyzer to your tailpipe and see what sort of things your 60 is spewing out. I've dealt with a handful of PS pressure switches on the 22RE/3RZ/3VZE platforms but to my knowledge the 60/62 series don't have them (maybe on imports?).
If you can't get it running or spin the motor over, I'd drop the pan and inspect for damage, hydro-locked cylinder, seized piston, etc.
As an aside, prior to rebuilding my motor, my dad ran it on 4 cylinders for years. Cracked head, dribbled coolant into the oil from the head, burnt valves in 4 and 6, etc. Thing still ran and made it the 20 miles back and forth for him every day (during the recession) because he couldn't be arsed to address its issues. Rest assured that whatever happened is probably not the end of the motor - these things are fairly bulletproof.
Interested to hear what you find!
PS - It's not a hole in the block, it's just an aftermarket inspection window
See if you can free-spin the engine, then try and have a block test done ASAP both at idle and at 2000rpm.
Further, if you can bring it to a REPUTABLE shop, see if they can hook up an exhaust gas analyzer to your tailpipe and see what sort of things your 60 is spewing out. I've dealt with a handful of PS pressure switches on the 22RE/3RZ/3VZE platforms but to my knowledge the 60/62 series don't have them (maybe on imports?).
If you can't get it running or spin the motor over, I'd drop the pan and inspect for damage, hydro-locked cylinder, seized piston, etc.
As an aside, prior to rebuilding my motor, my dad ran it on 4 cylinders for years. Cracked head, dribbled coolant into the oil from the head, burnt valves in 4 and 6, etc. Thing still ran and made it the 20 miles back and forth for him every day (during the recession) because he couldn't be arsed to address its issues. Rest assured that whatever happened is probably not the end of the motor - these things are fairly bulletproof.
Interested to hear what you find!
PS - It's not a hole in the block, it's just an aftermarket inspection window
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