Traction bar shackle

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I agree that an anti-wrap bar is essential and I REALLY don't want to bust a pinion on the trail. I hate that job in the shop, let alone on the trail.
I have all the parts for my anti-wrap bar, I'm using a JK customs style bar with 2" .25 wall square tube, RuffStuff's layback axle mount and a 3/4" heim. I was concerned about the space around the transfer case and fuel tank ('81). That's why I wanted to know what the potential shackle travel would be.
As soon as I can get some decent power in my new garage to run my welder. I gotta wait for the ground to thaw.

cheers-
-Stump
 
All I know is that it made a major traction difference after I got this, And no more bent springs.

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Does your rig hop when you get on it spinning up hill?

Too Tall,
Do you ask this because of the angle of the shackle (is vertical ideal)? Or because of the angle of the trac-bar, as flat as possiible being ideal?

Cheers-
-Stump
 
you definetly get my vote for the coolest mufflers on a cruisr! :grinpimp:
 
camcruiser: Did you use a johnny joint at the top of your shackle?

yah it does

some people dont but i did cuz i get some good flex. and its rebuildable. works nice
 
i'm a firm believer that any cruiser with soa suspension should have a track-bar in it. the stock springs wrap too much and eventually they'll de-form and you'll break the pinion on the rear diff, even the stronger fine spline units have fallen victim to this issue................
 
Does your rig hop when you get on it spinning up hill?

So far I hav'nt noticed any wheel hop, but I also try not to mash to hard on the loud pedal.

you definetly get my vote for the coolest mufflers on a cruisr! :grinpimp:

The muffler is called a Coffin (for obvious reasons) and is made here in Visalia. It flows like crazy but doe's tend to get a little loud when you get on it. coffinmufflers.com
 
i'm a firm believer that any cruiser with soa suspension should have a track-bar in it. the stock springs wrap too much and eventually they'll de-form and you'll break the pinion on the rear diff, even the stronger fine spline units have fallen victim to this issue................
Howdy! I agree. And they are pretty much mandatory if you want to run a lot of 2-Low Range, which I do. It is a lot less stress on a rig with autolockers in both ends, and it is a lot more fun on trails that have intermittent slow and fast sections. I like to romp on it in the sandy sections of washes, and then rock it into 4-Lo for crawling over the rocks. John
 
I ask because I plan to build a "swingset" style (for lack of a better way to describe it) shackle on my 81 FJ40 and space is at a premium in the area around the t-case e-brake and gas tank.

I am in a similar situation on my '80 with an LT1 with a 700R4. I do have 55 springs in the rear so the axle is moved back some, but I had to cut out the crossmember behind the t-case, so attachment points are limited.
 
I am in a similar situation on my '80 with an LT1 with a 700R4. I do have 55 springs in the rear so the axle is moved back some, but I had to cut out the crossmember behind the t-case, so attachment points are limited.
Howdy! I solved the attachment problem by adding a piece of 2" x 0.25 angle iron in this ^ direction. I placed it just behind the parking brake drum, and I could easily reach the top side for welding. I put it up high to clear my driveshaft, and my shackle hangs down. I have the shackle angled straight up, as the load under acceleration is nearly straight up. No problems after 8 years. John
 
My Wrap bar

Don’t mean to hijack but here is some picks of my wrap bar I've got mocked up do you think I'll have any problems with twisting on the front mount
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I've got it pretty flat
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I do not have the bottom A bar in yet.
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Thank you for any comments
Chris
 
Howdy! Jake, with a Heim on both ends you MAY get enough lateral rotation to allow the rear axle to twist up to the max, but you may need to space out the side bars on the front. If you just use a longer bolt and add a couple of fender washers, you should be OK. But, I would lower the front end of the bar a bit so the shackle and the mount are straight in line with each other. When you accelerate, the torque will lift the front Heim straight up, and with the current offset will create a lot of rotational force (leverage) on the mounting arm and the cross member. The big torque are should be the only lever in the system if possible. Most of these are made from round tube, but I suppose square will work, especially if you cross brace it well. John
 
inkpot, I only have one heim on the end if the bar. I may try to get the mount straight with the shackle, it hangs down a little to low. I have not tryed to move the crossmember to the botom with the shackle going up. I'll try that this weekend.

Thanks for the input
Chris
 

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