Toyo OpenCountry AT3 Experience? (2 Viewers)

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I recently put AT3 P285/70-17s on Icon Vector 5s.

Pros: It looks good. Tire is quiet.

Cons: It must run large because there is considerable rubbing at less than full lock. I was expecting some, but others run this size tire and wheel with no rubbing. Going to address this weekend with the heat gun.

Also, the RCTIP is 27 according to earlier posts. I had the shop inflate to 28 and there was a massive bulge, it looked terrible. I’m up to 30 now and it still looks a little flat, but the ride is OK. I may bump to 32 to try that out.
Yo, please don’t listen to that 26 PSI BS. Run these at 34-38 depending on how you like your ride. Just trust me, I’ve tested them in all conditions at various pressures on my LX.
 
Its not an error, its what a way oversized tire is capable of safely loading at a set PSI to match the factory setup. This tire can carry much more than the oem, and at that pressure, is under inflated. It has a much taller sidewall and is not a like for like comparison. 26 PSI is minimum to match that load, thats it. In a like for like tire, it should handle and ride the same. In this context, 26 PSI is not just dumb, its dangerous.
Three different people running this "recommendation" have noted that it looks way off just to the eye.

This community is great and all but seriously people have got to stop getting so offended when their presumptions are challenged by someone who is actually using the tire specified.
 
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It is OK to disagree, but it must be done respectafully. Any user readfing this forum should double check information if they have any concerns

I have these Toyo ATII Tires and they did great in Moab last month. I ryn them at 42psi on the street and 22 psi off road. I have no scientific basis to support that is the best numbers, just feels right to me after years of experiance. I have a heavy built vehicle
 
There are a ton of great ways of making the argument that the load chart may not be the best way to approach tire pressures, but you aren’t doing it. Simply calling the scientifically-derived pressures “BS” and telling a stranger online to “trust me” (the random keyboard warrior) on what to run.. why should they? Would you?

Then to get all spun up about this.. good call on the popcorn. I’m definitely enjoying myself.

And I run more than the rctip!

I’ve made my argument on this thread a couple of times as have others, so im not going to bother. I am simply trying to help someone avoid unnecessary risk due to bad advice. If you think I’m denigrating the chart, then you haven’t understood anything at all. Glad you are amused, though.

I mentioned that I run this exact tire and those who have also agree? So direct first hand experience and multiple supporting posts are nothing?

The chart is fine, it’s being misunderstood and misapplied to a dangerous level.
 
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It is OK to disagree, but it must be done respectafully. Any user readfing this forum should double check information if they have any concerns

I have these Toyo ATII Tires and they did great in Moab last month. I ryn them at 42psi on the street and 22 psi off road. I have no scientific basis to support that is the best numbers, just feels right to me after years of experiance. I have a heavy built vehicle
Hey Romer, are you running LT?
The tire I run and is in question is the P rated ATIII. 26 PSI is much too low for those.
 
I am running the LT 275 70 R18, ot only comes in LT

You have stated your opinion and I wont get in the middle of your disagreement with gaijin. I have read enough of his posts to trust what he is saying, but we also dont moderate technical content for accuracy and that goes for yours as well as his. Personally, I take waht he posts as truth, but everyone is welcome to their own opinion
 
Load tables published by the people that design and build these tires are BS. Got it.

Clearly, a load chart is the ultimate and final word on pressure. What was I thinking. Just meet the minimum pressure for the load safety requirement and don’t even consider anything else. That is clearly the intellectual choice. Forget how dangerous and dumb it rides and looks. Forget getting 8mpg and abysmal acceleration. Just follow an arbitrary chart and use the minimum pressure to achieve an arbitrary load level that you may not even be running. Now that is smart thinking.
Also forget that you own and drive the car and know how it should handle and ride, that’s ignorant!
Also assume anyone who disagrees is insane when you don’t run the same setup and haven’t even seen it or tested it yourself. Nice reply man.

Just making s**t up again, eh?

We've been here before. There's some mud slinging on all sides and no one is clean.

Yet there's real discussion points that we continue to dismiss on these boards because some have hung there hat on a single point, repeated enough, echoed enough, that we as a community are no longer applying critical thinking to pretty salient observations. Only marching blindly on anecdotical and incomplete information.

@AnyMal90 , I agree with you. I get the frustration, especially against the trained mob here. RCTIP interpretation is a singular facet of tire pressure. It establishes minimums, yet even that is based on assumptions of what stock tires pressures are. To your point, there's absolutely reasons to go higher. And even though I said minimums, there reasons to go lower.

For the two sizes I've run - 305/55R20, and now 35x12.5 - RCTIP both were inadequate tire pressure. From my track experience - I tacitly knew there wasn't enough pressure to keep the sidewalls from rolling over. RCTIP said I needed 35 PSI for both sizes for load handing. Yet I ran 37 PSI and 39 PSI respectively because tires are so much more than just load.

To the point on stock tires, OEMs also don't formulate tire pressures based solely on load. It's only one variable. Likewise, they may have established factory tire pressure for load , handling, feel, ride, etc. So to interpret pressures for another tire size on load singularly, is myopic.

Don't worry, my post here will be dismissed just the same. But know you're right to go on more than just RCTIP, and you're doing others running the same size a favor. Maybe even helping them from a Firestone like rollover because too many take RCTIP as gospel on here. Or the hordes that suffer unreasonably brittle rides, possibly loosing control over rough roads because their RCTIP tire sidewall spring rate are too high for stock suspensions, causing them to skip over the road without traction.
 
Since this is a thread about toyo ATIII's lets keep the topic on the design of the tire

I really dont want to have another argument on what tire pressures are correct to run on these. Like you said, we have been here before
 
Since this is a thread about toyo ATIII's lets keep the topic on the design of the tire

I really dont want to have another argument on what tire pressures are correct to run on these. Like you said, we have been here before

I really am not trying argue and beat that dead horse. Someone asked about the pressure posted and it being really low, and I actually wanted to help avoid a potential disaster. I don’t care if im banned or if you might be best buds with gaijin or if people cross referencing a chart are regarded as “gurus” here or if it makes me unpopular or whatever so be it. I will even say it again. If you are running the P rated toyo, you need to inflate to at least 32 PSI, anything lower than that is unsafe. I own and run this on my 17 LX. I’ve had the factory setup, I’ve owned a 100 series as well and have had multiple performance cars with a variety of tires.

Someone asked about this specific tire in P rating which not many run here, and I felt obligated to warn them against the “advice” posted. If you want to moderate, turn your attention to the two who came out of the woodwork to chime in and mock me. There might not be a correct pressure, but it’s sure as s*** not 26 PSI.

Last note on the chart, why do you think it’s a cliff note on toyos website and not referenced widely? It’s not meant to be used by consumers tire shopping, and none of the large retailers use it because they don’t even condone running off sizes. There’s too many variables for a chart to absolve them of liabilities. Anyone using it needs to take into account their actual experience and preference on their vehicle.

BTW to keep on topic the P rated ATIII 285/70/17 117T is a dream on the LX with AHC. Specially coming off of luxury 21”. Ride is smoother, wider track is more stable with minimal noise added. They fit almost dead on with a +25 offset and look great without being over the top. They did fantastic in hilly snow and ice when we had the TX freeze. I highly recommend this if you are in P market. At 46lbs and new wheels I’ve shaved off 10lb per corner and didn’t lose any efficiency. Maybe even gained some on the highway.
If I were to do it all over again in an LT I would probably go ridge grappler because they look more aggressive but that’s about it. Either that or the yoko X-AT but that’s a heavy son of a b. By that time though I’ll be out of warranty and supercharged.

Happy to meet with anyone in Austin if there’s interest to do some comparisons! Im always tire shopping!
 
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I really am not trying argue and beat that dead horse. Someone asked about the pressure posted and it being really low, and I actually wanted to help avoid a potential disaster. I don’t care if im banned or if you might be best buds with gaijin or if people cross referencing a chart are regarded as “gurus” here or if it makes me unpopular or whatever so be it.
I dont know gaijin. My job is to keep the attacks and personal disagreements out of tech. I don't care if its you or Gaijin. You both have said your peice now please move on
 
I have gone through and cleaned up both sides of the conversation to remove any name calling or comments

I am good with technical disagreements that remain resectful with out acusations or name calling. It is OK to disagree and disagreements should make the reader double check the data for their own use

Both sides of the discussion have gone past respectful and that is what I moderated

This is not a public forum. It is privately owned and we ask you, guests in the IH8MUD House to respect our rules about how to treat others.

Your freindly Moderator
 
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Switched from LT285/70R18 Ridge Grapplers (+25mm offset) to LT285/70R17 Toyo AT3. Unfortunately, I made too many changes simultaneously to give definitive statements. I can say they do have a sound and volume, but not significant. The ride feels smoother and there is less vibration through the steering wheel. That said, I did change wheels and tire size to a Toyota approved combination and the lugnuts to McGards. The weight and size on the tire carrier could also be a source of variance in ride quality

Front measurements at 41psi are:
Horizontal measurement is 32.5”. Vertical measurement is 31.8” (ish).

That said, it seems to be a pretty good tire. YMMV.
 
Great thread folks. As a 100-series owner much of this data helped inform my decision to go Toyo over Falken - thank you all!

Came from Ko2 275/70/r18 that had 7/32nd remaining after running 40,000 miles. Went with the same size @ 35psi given my stock application.

My decision to change were mixed between 1) the Ko2s were getting pretty loud/rough, 2) wanting the latest tech in market, 3) the product team & their affinity to Cruisers, & 4) my needs are for road trips / daily comfort / aesthetics / limited mountain usage.

My impressions thus far ...subjectively the Toyo's ride better already in city/highway. NVH, while improved, still shows typical A/T noise. The noise is lower at all speeds. Is it because they're new or it's a better tire .... meh, I don't really know. This one, while quieter, does have a pitch higher tone through 80 mph vs. the Ko2 (my subjective $.02) with no A/C or radio.

Here's what it looks like ... hopefully ya'll don't mind a little 100-series photos mixed in!?
Screen Shot 2021-06-04 at 10.43.05 AM.png
 
First let me say thanks guys, this thread has been a source of great information. I installed a set of Toyo Open Country AT3s in 285/65-R18 tires on my 2014 LC 200. So far they have been great. No rubbing, nice ride, minimal noise. Just hspped to park next to an Identical LC with stock tires yesterday, so took took this photo for a side by side comparrison.

20210604_100359.jpg
 
First let me say thanks guys, this thread has been a source of great information. I installed a set of Toyo Open Country AT3s in 285/65-R18 tires on my 2014 LC 200. So far they have been great. No rubbing, nice ride, minimal noise. Just hspped to park next to an Identical LC with stock tires yesterday, so took took this photo for a side by side comparrison.

View attachment 2694413
Is that an optical illusion? your LC looks so much bigger! :D
 
First let me say thanks guys, this thread has been a source of great information. I installed a set of Toyo Open Country AT3s in 285/65-R18 tires on my 2014 LC 200. So far they have been great. No rubbing, nice ride, minimal noise. Just hspped to park next to an Identical LC with stock tires yesterday, so took took this photo for a side by side comparrison.

View attachment 2694413
LT or P
 
Just switched from p-285/70r17 AT2s to LT-C AT3 in same size. Happy with how quiet they are, look MUCH better than worn p-metric version.. time will tell how much they impact mileage.
 
Just switched from p-285/70r17 AT2s to LT-C AT3 in same size. Happy with how quiet they are, look MUCH better than worn p-metric version.. time will tell how much they impact mileage.
What is the weight difference b/w old P-metric vs. new LTC? Do you feel the small bumps etc?
 

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