Toyo OpenCountry AT3 Experience?

[hydrojefe]

I went with the Toyos on the 200 due to lower weight (already have the Falkens on the 100). Less rotating mass = incrementally better performance. Both tires are great and I would buy either one again. Also, Falken used to be a less expensive tire. That was no longer the case when I got the Toyos. Both sets are E rated LT tires.

 

[TeCKis300]

My experience is with Wildpeak AT3s E Load - had for 14k miles at the time when I got a sidewall gutted on tree root while off-roading. Not mad, the root was nasty and people mistakenly assume a tree root isn't destructive but it can be, especially side bites.

Anyways, didn't have certs at DT because the tire had a 55k warranty. They measured at 14/16 with 14k miles on them! That's impressive. They paid me 85% of tire value, and I bought another - ran that set for 40k more miles. BTW 14/16" is insane, because some new tires don't even come that high....

Agreed and it's a ton of rubber. Even after 40k miles on mine, it was easy to sell for $300/set as there was so much rubber and life left. I know we focus so much on weight here, but at least for the Wildpeak AT3Ws, that weight is value in rubber. They also tend to run at least as large if not larger for equivalent sizes. Something where the lighter competing tires clearly run smaller to achieve the lighter weights. So it's hard to knock falkens being heavy IMO as it's giving me more tire for my dollar.

I miss that aggressiveness after stepping over to the Toyo AT3s.

 

[TeCKis300]

Note that while p285/70r17s at 26/27psi will technically not come apart from heat failure, that is too little pressure to safely support the sidewall of that size tire during cornering. I and others have tried it, and the ride is super cush, but any dynamic driving is pretty sketchy if you pay attention.

Good point. Not to mention that rolling resistance would be higher and it'd be throwing gas money out the window.

 

[kcobourn]

The "...p-metric 285/65/17 Toyo AT3s / rock warriors..." tires that @kcobourn mentioned do not exist.

Toyo do, however make a P285/70R17 117T SL Open Contry A/T III. See it here: Toyo Tires

Good catch @gaijin I adjusted my post ... blending together the 285/65/18 & 285/70/17 measurements in my memory

 

[OregonLC]

Note that while p285/70r17s at 26/27psi will technically not come apart from heat failure, that is too little pressure to safely support the sidewall of that size tire during cornering. I and others have tried it, and the ride is super cush, but any dynamic driving is pretty sketchy if you pay attention.

Also to be taken to account is the weight of the specific vehicle. I, for example, deploy in excess of 8,200 lbs, with around 4,400 of that on the rear axle. So my baseline CTIP is 40 PSI per the load chart below. In reality, I've found the best combination of handling, road resistance, and wear to be at 45 PSI on all 4 corners. I could tailor that slightly with a bit more in the rear and a bit less in the front, but this isn't rally cross and those pressures have done me well.

This is a bit of a soap box for me, but the American approach to a set-and-forget one-pressure-fits-all model is rubbish. This is especially true if you look at the door jam sticker pressure for 3/4T and 1T trucks. Those are max load, max trailer pressures and are often horribly inappropriate for light passenger use. We live in a society that proxies things like tire pressure decisions to a third party and therefore we end up with a single pressure on the sticker. Way better to weigh your vehicle, record your axle loads and determine the correct starting pressure from a load chart for the actual tires you run. This can be further refined using a chalk test or, more simply, based upon driving style and expectations. There is no single perfect pressure that can apply to everyone in every situation. Most important is to understand the effect pressure has on your contact patch and how that relates to vehicle handling and economy in the manner and locations in which you drive and adjust those pressures accordingly. As @bloc indicated above, the 'right' pressure from a chart isn't the right pressure if it doesn't work for your specific mission. Consider the chart as a threshold to avoid under-inflation damage over the expected life of the tire. Also understand that everything in life carries a risk and sometimes the risk of ending up in the ditch is considerable.

Keep in mind that ambient temperature plays a large component in cold tire pressure. For example, last week it was 74F here and the 35s on the Power Wagon read 55 PSI. Yesterday it was below freezing at they were in the high 40s upon cold start and I got the naughty TPMS light.

As for me, I keep it simple: four conditional pressure settings for the 200. These pressures are easy to remember and use. May not be absolute perfection but they work.

- 45 for normal dry / wet. I've found this to be the best compromise of handling, ride quality, and economy for my setup.​

- 35 for winter mix. This is a pressure that I use if there are occasional white spots. 35 PSI is enough to keep me out of risk of premature damage yet provides some additional traction. Where I live, this is the set pressure I leave it at Nov-Mar. I try to not exceed 65 mph with this setting.​

- 25 for added traction. This would be trail pressure or extended white road travel. At this pressure I keep the speed below 50 to minimize flex heat. I cross the Cascade passes 52 times a year and often travel at this pressure for 40-50 miles with no ill effects. Does well at keeping me out of the scenery.​

- 15 for problems. This would be for deep sand, snow, loose or technical slopes, etc.​

Lastly, keep in mind that all pressures are to be set cold. If you air up leaving the trail to 45, expect it to drop to 40 the next morning after the tires are cold. Those little ARB compressors deliver a lot of hot air as well that will contract as it cools.

 

[aptos]

Note that while p285/70r17s at 26/27psi will technically not come apart from heat failure, that is too little pressure to safely support the sidewall of that size tire during cornering. I and others have tried it, and the ride is super cush, but any dynamic driving is pretty sketchy if you pay attention.

I have p285/70/r17s as well and totally agree. Even at 34 psi mine felt sketchy on corners with more spirited driving. My next tires will be LT for sure.

 

[2001cruiser]

Hey guys, just a quick before (stock 285/60/18) and after (275/70/18) Toyo AT3's. I know I struggled with what will fit, what will do best in the wet and snow (Seattle), what will look the best, etc...Please ignore the car color...no. the tires, didn't make the LC whiter. Just bad photography skills probably...

 

[Killacaviar]

I mentioned this another thread and managed to snap a photo of my best looking tire at the moment. These at3 have 5-6k miles on them. Had anyone else experienced chunking similar to this? Would this warrant a cash in on my DT certificates.

I’m pretty disappointed at how fast they wear and how torn up they have gotten.

Personally, I think this is pretty unacceptable. However, I would love some more input.

 

[prwillard2]

I mentioned this another thread and managed to snap a photo of my best looking tire at the moment. These at3 have 5-6k miles on them. Had anyone else experienced chunking similar to this? Would this warrant a cash in on my DT certificates.

I’m pretty disappointed at how fast they wear and how torn up they have gotten.

Personally, I think this is pretty unacceptable. However, I would love some more input.

View attachment 3168320

I'd recommend you try and return these under manufacturer warranty

 

[Madtiger]

I mentioned this another thread and managed to snap a photo of my best looking tire at the moment. These at3 have 5-6k miles on them. Had anyone else experienced chunking similar to this? Would this warrant a cash in on my DT certificates.

I’m pretty disappointed at how fast they wear and how torn up they have gotten.

Personally, I think this is pretty unacceptable. However, I would love some more input.

View attachment 3168320

Is this happening on all tires? Or just one?

 

[Killacaviar]

Is this happening on all tires? Or just one?

Clearly states that’s my Best looking tire.

 

[Toyoland66]

The micro cracking down in the grooves makes those look like very old tires. If they aren’t there might be a material issue. Mine look nothing like that.

 

[Killacaviar]

These were purchased in May.

 

[Itsky]

I would return those for a refund.

 

[TeCKis300]

I mentioned this another thread and managed to snap a photo of my best looking tire at the moment. These at3 have 5-6k miles on them. Had anyone else experienced chunking similar to this? Would this warrant a cash in on my DT certificates.

I’m pretty disappointed at how fast they wear and how torn up they have gotten.

Personally, I think this is pretty unacceptable. However, I would love some more input.

View attachment 3168320

Mine are beat-up in spots, more on the shoulder lugs. It's chip resistance doesn't seem as strong as some other AT. Though I'll say I'm not nice to them running on sharp granite trails, but also hooning them on loose dirt. About 15k miles on mine now.

Would be interesting to see if anyone else has irregular wear on whatever tire with harder off-road use.

 

[OregonLC]

FWIW, I had similar with a Nitto Terra Grappler. Sister company. They chuncked out almost identical to what @TeCKis300 shows in the image above as they aged.

To be fair, those tires show quite a bit of weathering (cracking) at the bottom of the grooves. Seems like a lot for a 15k tire. What is the manufacturing date?

 

[PDoyle]

Isn’t there a manufacturer date on that tire?

 

[2001cruiser]

Well shoot, you guys aren't giving me warm fuzzies about my brand new AT3 purchase! Might be a case for @WesSiler who wrote the following article for Outside Magazine... Everything You Need to Know About Upgrading to All-Terrain Tires - https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-gear/cars-trucks/everything-you-need-know-about-all-terrain-tires/

@WesSiler, are you still in touch with Todd Bergeson (Sr Manager product planning at Toyo Tires)? Wonder your / his thoughts on this chunking / cracking problem? Covered under warranty? Bad batches? Georgia USA-made vs Japan-made? etc?

 

[TeCKis300]

Well shoot, you guys aren't giving me warm fuzzies about my brand new AT3 purchase! Might be a case for @WesSiler who wrote the following article for Outside Magazine... Everything You Need to Know About Upgrading to All-Terrain Tires - https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-gear/cars-trucks/everything-you-need-know-about-all-terrain-tires/

@WesSiler, are you still in touch with Todd Bergeson (Sr Manager product planning at Toyo Tires)? Wonder your / his thoughts on this chunking problem? Covered under warranty? Bad batches? Georgia USA-made vs Japan-made? etc?

I wouldn't take it that way. Maybe @Killacaviar has a different view, but IMO, I'm abusing the tires. That they're seeing some chipping and wear should be expected because this isn't normal use. I saw similar chipping with my Falken AT3Ws.

It's not just chipping, we've been outright cutting and destroying tires, counting 4 tires lost of various brands. Sidewall cuts and others.

I do wonder what others see and if they have pictures so we can have a sense of what's expected.

 

[Chewbacca]

I mentioned this another thread and managed to snap a photo of my best looking tire at the moment. These at3 have 5-6k miles on them. Had anyone else experienced chunking similar to this? Would this warrant a cash in on my DT certificates.

I’m pretty disappointed at how fast they wear and how torn up they have gotten.

Personally, I think this is pretty unacceptable. However, I would love some more input.

View attachment 3168320

Definitely not normal. Mine have 25k on them and look much better than that. I wonder if you got a bad batch?