Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser

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Two parts to a spring. Spring rate (stiffness of a spring), and applied load (force applied to the spring to compress it).

Sure, you can get the right tension with any spring.

Problem is that the rate increases significantly faster, with far higher tension increase with any articulation. Much like the gentle riding 200-series, versus a stiffly sprung F350. You're putting F350 forces into the 200-series hitch and trailer tongue.

Glad to hear that you're removing the spring bars when entering campsites. But do think about dips in intersections and bigger gutter dips entering gas stations.

Things bend and the 12k bars wont be doing their part against a comparatively lightweight 4500lb Jayco tongue.
Fair points.
 
Got the REDARC Tow-Pro Elite installed. I replaced the rear power hatch off switch and zip tied it behind the panel.

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Exactly what I do, too.

Sidenote: White LX w/ empty dual-motorcycle trailer through Vernon yesterday wasn't you, was it?
Sorry I missed this about a month ago but no it wasn't my silver LX. How is the snow at Silver star now? I am thinking that the grandkids could use a little exercise.
 
Sorry I missed this about a month ago but no it wasn't my silver LX. How is the snow at Silver star now? I am thinking that the grandkids could use a little exercise.
I don't ski anymore, but my wife has been up a few times with the kiddo. From what I've heard, the last few weeks have been pretty bad. High temps, wet snow, poor conditions. It has been snowing decently most of the day today, so there's got to be some fresh powder on the hill. How much is the question. I'd check the cameras + conditions on the website before heading up.
 
I now have several thousand miles towing with my '16 LC. I only recently added OME MT64 suspension, and have not towed with it yet. So all my towing was on OEM suspension w/ 120k miles. I am the first person to tow with this vehicle as I had to add the OEM trailer plug harness, and the hitch had no signs of use. Only modification for towing was the addition of the RedArc TowPro Elite + B&W drop hitch (perfect stowaway) with the anti-rattle pin, solid af.
- First big tow job from Houston TX to Miami FL roundtrip with a double axle 16' enclosed trailer, fully loaded helping my parents move. Easily 7k lb+ and with sub par weight distribution in the trailer. Pretty squatted, and I feel like that killed the little bit of life left in the stock suspension. Bottomed out a couple of times on the drive.
- After that I started towing my '85 Defender on a rented 20' Aluma tilt trailer, also close to 7k lbs. No bottoming out with this load as it was easier to place the Defender on the trailer to even it out. No lack of power, and by this time I added a Pedal Commander which also helped. The aluminum trailer is a must to keep the weight within limit.
Now living in Denver, I had SLEE help me pick out the new OME MT64 kit with the taller progressive springs in the back, keeping factory rake, no airbags. This should keep the truck level once trailer is hooked up. I have some big tow trips with the Defender in the mountains coming up in the next few months, pushing the limits. I will report back on how that handles.
I am sure the LX handles it better, but I have experience towing with F-150, F-250 and this feels more like towing with a 250 than 150. The LC simply does not care. Tow maxed out to the trails, rip on the trails behind the triple locked Defender, and tow it back home.

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I'm about to conduct a move from SoCal to North Carolina. One of my biggest concerns is towing the trailer behind me in the 200 with all the gear and things the military movers won't move.

Probably 4-5 thousand pounds of stuff, so about 7k with the trailer.

Does anyone have a recommended trailer brand and WD hitch they'd recommend for me to get? I'd rather buy my own than risk the s*** uhaul trailers.

I assume an enclosed dual axle 7k cargo trailer and some sort of WD hitch?

This move has me getting some serious anxiety for some reason thinking the 200 won't be up to the task - contemplating getting an F250 now for some reason.
 
I'm about to conduct a move from SoCal to North Carolina. One of my biggest concerns is towing the trailer behind me in the 200 with all the gear and things the military movers won't move.

Probably 4-5 thousand pounds of stuff, so about 7k with the trailer.

Does anyone have a recommended trailer brand and WD hitch they'd recommend for me to get? I'd rather buy my own than risk the s*** uhaul trailers.

I assume an enclosed dual axle 7k cargo trailer and some sort of WD hitch?

This move has me getting some serious anxiety for some reason thinking the 200 won't be up to the task - contemplating getting an F250 now for some reason.
Your 200 won't have any issue with that trailer, get a brake controller and you will be totally fine.

If you want a nice trailer that you will keep for a while, Featherlite are nice trailers made with aluminum.
 
If you don’t already have a trailer brake controller, you’ll need one for that weight. Take some time to get the controller and WDH dialed in. Take it easy on the trip and you’ll be fine.
 
Uhaul has some of the strongest trailers out there. I have towed them all over the western US with 0 issues.
Their dual axle cargo trailers are rated for only 2500 pounds of cargo and you cannot set them up with a WD hitch.
 
Their dual axle cargo trailers are rated for only 2500 pounds of cargo and you cannot set them up with a WD hitch.
Why would you need a WDH with a Uhaul trailer? They are meant to be used without one. You don't even need a brake controller.
I am not saying it will work for what you need but you stated they are s*** trailers and they aren't. They are extremely well built to stand up to the abuse of the average Joe Smo who has no clue about trailers.
 
Many jurisdictions do require trailer brakes after a certain trailer weight is reached.

In general, accident risk increases with trailer weight & size, so U-Haul may very well be down-rating their trailers' weight ratings to absolve them of any potential liability, should things go sideways. That 2500lb weight rating likely covers 90% of their clientele's uses.

I'll +1 that their trailers (at least the ones I've rented) were quite heavy duty and more than fit for the jobs I've used them for.

Many people buy a cargo trailer, use it for a move, and sell it at the end of the trip. That's always an option. I'd opt for a good deal on a well-used trailer, so it can be sold for as close to buying price as possible.
 
Many jurisdictions do require trailer brakes after a certain trailer weight is reached.

In general, accident risk increases with trailer weight & size, so U-Haul may very well be down-rating their trailers' weight ratings to absolve them of any potential liability, should things go sideways. That 2500lb weight rating likely covers 90% of their clientele's uses.

I'll +1 that their trailers (at least the ones I've rented) were quite heavy duty and more than fit for the jobs I've used them for.

Many people buy a cargo trailer, use it for a move, and sell it at the end of the trip. That's always an option. I'd opt for a good deal on a well-used trailer, so it can be sold for as close to buying price as possible.
That's exactly what I did. It was $1000 to rent a trailer from UHaul from Vegas to Kalispell. I bought a used 5x10 V Nose cargo trailer that had been used once to move a family from NY to Las Vegas. They were asking 4 and I offered 3 and they accepted. Planned on selling as soon as I got here but still have that dang thing 4 years later and used the hell out of it. Could probably still sell it for $2500.
 
I'm about to conduct a move from SoCal to North Carolina. One of my biggest concerns is towing the trailer behind me in the 200 with all the gear and things the military movers won't move.

Probably 4-5 thousand pounds of stuff, so about 7k with the trailer.

Does anyone have a recommended trailer brand and WD hitch they'd recommend for me to get? I'd rather buy my own than risk the s*** uhaul trailers.

I assume an enclosed dual axle 7k cargo trailer and some sort of WD hitch?

This move has me getting some serious anxiety for some reason thinking the 200 won't be up to the task - contemplating getting an F250 now for some reason.
I have an all aluminum R&R utility trailer that is extremely well made; the welds are a work of art. I custom ordered it with exactly what I wanted. They have a variety of cargo trailers too. Look at their dual axle v-nose models. Might be overkill for just one move. They ship nationwide from the Michigan factory and I think they have a dealer network too?

 
That's exactly what I did. It was $1000 to rent a trailer from UHaul from Vegas to Kalispell. I bought a used 5x10 V Nose cargo trailer that had been used once to move a family from NY to Las Vegas. They were asking 4 and I offered 3 and they accepted. Planned on selling as soon as I got here but still have that dang thing 4 years later and used the hell out of it. Could probably still sell it for $2500.
Ya, something like this is probably my plan.

Have found a dual axle, 6x12, 7k GVWR Interstate here close to me for $5700. Epoxy floors, but not much off MSRP from the looks of it. Not surprising for California.

 
I know zero about towing.
End goal is to tow one of my cars from Houston to Colorado/Cali etc so I can drive it out there. Right now it sucks driving the boring roads in Texas to get out. Last time I was in colorado, 16 ours was just straight roads in texas..

Need to read this thread lol
So much to learn.
 
Purchased a gem for my brother. 2000 Tundra SR5 V8 with just 134k miles on it and a super clean interior. Frame and brake lines had been replaced under Toyota rust campaign/recall. Drove 7 hours to inspect and test drive. Needs some basic maintenance, e.g., timing belt, fluid changes, tires, but the engine purrs like a kitten, even with the large hole in the exhaust.

Few hours later, loaded it onto trailer and hauled it home. U-Haul trailer FTW. 2200 lb trailer + ~4500 lb truck = easy tow. AHC works its magic keeping my truck level. 10 mpg meant looking for gas stations about every 200 miles.

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Purchased a gem for my brother. 2000 Tundra SR5 V8 with just 134k miles on it and a super clean interior. Frame and brake lines had been replaced under Toyota rust campaign/recall. Drove 7 hours to inspect and test drive. Needs some basic maintenance, e.g., timing belt, fluid changes, tires, but the engine purrs like a kitten, even with the large hole in the exhaust.

Few hours later, loaded it onto trailer and hauled it home. U-Haul trailer FTW. 2200 lb trailer + ~4500 lb truck = easy tow. AHC works its magic keeping my truck level. 10 mpg meant looking for gas stations about every 200 miles.

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10 mpg is my usual gas estimate for a 7000lb trailer. But I saw it as low as 5 mpg in the mountains out west. YMMV. :cool:
 
Purchased a gem for my brother. 2000 Tundra SR5 V8 with just 134k miles on it and a super clean interior. Frame and brake lines had been replaced under Toyota rust campaign/recall. Drove 7 hours to inspect and test drive. Needs some basic maintenance, e.g., timing belt, fluid changes, tires, but the engine purrs like a kitten, even with the large hole in the exhaust.

Few hours later, loaded it onto trailer and hauled it home. U-Haul trailer FTW. 2200 lb trailer + ~4500 lb truck = easy tow. AHC works its magic keeping my truck level. 10 mpg meant looking for gas stations about every 200 miles.

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Tacoma and Tundra of that era are awesome and awesome looking, well done 👍🏻
 
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