Tornado takes the top off 1964 SWB FJ-45

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Found that quick hinges interfere with older body openings. @2fpower had clearanced mine with a grinder but wanted it a bit cleaner. So took them to @kc_chevota 's for a quick run thru the mill. then a quick blast and paint. Cleaned up a spare 60 series transmission mount and put everything in epoxy..
After the epoxy was a bit of single-stage and dry time. Dropped the windshield frame down and wired up a Gentex GHSHL4 mirror. I could have put an OEM ish type mirror there but this has homelink, Compass and a camera built in. Really just wanted the homelink to avoid garage door openers flying off visors.. the two phone cable things are for the ham radio head that i plan on mounting above the mirror where the original mirror mount went on the windshield frame.

My problem I ran into after getting everything installed again with new weather-stripping is the doors won't shut. I gave up after the football game and will attack the door adjustment later. I did proactively order the thinner weather-stripping from Cityracer for the doors. At this point in the game I'm all for an easy fix.

Once the doors can shut, I can calibrate the speedometer and the Compass in the mirror.

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i'll find his sale thread and post some pictures so he is aware. In no way am i bashing a product. I think i have 3 sets now? As with anything I own, I anticipate some sort of custom fitting to be part of the process.
I would like to confirm it is an issue on multiple older cabs. Weird that i don't think it was a prob on the other 45.. I will look at it in a couple weeks.
If i had clearanced the tub before paint it would have been a lot easier.. or at least noticed the problem. It was that close that they were on the truck already.
Kelly is the one that noticed it when he was aligning my doors.. Now that I pulled them off to repaint i can't get my doors realigned YET..
 
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Is it the ‘usual’ problem where the door just ‘stops’ a few inches before closing because the forward edge of the weatherstrip pinches between the door and the A pillar? I had really hoped that Roger’s repro WS would ’solve’ that problem.
I ordered a set a couple of months ago (when I learned on the forum that he had them :rolleyes: ) but haven’t taken them out of the box yet.
 
Maybe I’m in a different ballgame with my early ‘63 SWB but the cityracer weatherstrip works fine for me. A little pressure as they’re new but doors close. Alignment is ok for my tastes. 🤷‍♂️
 
Fingers crossed! I appreciate the input Mark.. Guessing i'll be pulling weatherstripping off.
@middlecalf, Prob is i used the OEM really thick weatherstripping. not the thinner revised version.
I was using what i had in the garage thinking it should work.
 
Laugh if you want, but it’s enlightened self interest. There are a lot of us in the same boat, and we always appreciate hearing/reading about the first guy to test the waters on a new product.

I saw a couple of posts from guys with the 73-74 doors. But I can’t say if I’ve seen one from someone with early doors.
 
i'll find his sale thread and post some pictures so he is aware. In no way am i bashing a product. I think i have 3 sets now? As with anything I own, I anticipate some sort of custom fitting to be part of the process.
I would like to confirm it is an issue on multiple older cabs. Weird that i don't think it was a prob on the other 45.. I will look at it in a couple weeks.
If i had clearanced the tub before paint it would have been a lot easier.. or at least noticed the problem. It was that close that they were on the truck already.
Kelly is the one that noticed it when he was aligning my doors.. Now that I pulled them off to repaint i can't get my doors realigned YET..
Have you posted a picture up of where the Clearancing was needed? Think with that would clear things up.. basically the front side of the hinge, meaning the side closer to the front, was hitting the body. Shimming it would make it worse, as the A pillar is fixed and hinge bolts toward the rear of the car. So we basically cut a groove so that when you tighten down the hinge it doesn’t pry forward on the body.

It was quite the buzz kill. First thing I did when I came over to help… it was about three hours later when I got finished putting four hinges on!
 
Hey @tornadoalleycruiser - mind if I ask a quick wiring question? Do you remember specifically how you wired up you check engine light? I’m using the same indicator light as you (I think), but I’m having issues. When I first fired up my engine, it appeared to be working, but now it is just always on. Even if I jump the diagnostic port, no flashing. Just constantly on.

The way I wired it is the Y-W wire from the ECU goes to the ground wire for the light. Power to the light is wired to a switched ignition source. Wonder how you did it?

Hope you don’t mind me interrupting things here with my question. :)
 
Sounds like you have a bad ground to computer. I would check to see if the wire is grounding somewhere without the computer on. Continuity from the chassis to the trigger wire without the computer on. No continuity to ground till computer tells it.
 
Thanks. Hm…that would make sense, but it was working and I haven’t changed anything (unless I had a sketchy connection somewhere that didn’t manifest until now). Guess I’ll go ground hunting. Thanks for helping.
 
To follow up - figured out the problem. The light is being grounded via the mounting to the dash. So got to figure out how to prevent (electrical tape I guess). If I leave the light unmounted and hanging, works just as expected.

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I built an led with 2 wires. Power with key in to engine ecu out aka ground. Shrink-wrap etc. There were 2 types of bulb housings to use. I gutted one and made my own

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Slight update.. Managed to get the gauges all working, GPS speedometer for the win. I for the life of me could NOT get the Dakota Digital Tcase speedometer sender to work. So i capped it and went with the GPS speedometer. Cap found here
found these at Fittings Space - https://www.fittings.space/ Bolt Nut Metric Thread M22X1.5 M22 x 1.5 Female Banjo Cap Plug Plated Steel Fitting
SKU: gsm11_m22x15f
Upon diagnosis of the tcase gear sending unit it appears the square peg seemed to spin in the square hole. I didn't trust it to work long term. And the GPS speedometer sender give you a compass, altimeter and outside temperature.

Next was some driving this weekend. everything was going great until the TPS let the idle keep climbing. I have a spare and ordered a new one. I am pretty sure i had ohmed out the one on it. Clearly that failed.. I will try to readjust the TPS tonight and or swap my spare on. Went ahead and ordered a new TPS Plug from @ToyotaMatt. It is cracked and the idle would react if i pushed on the plug/tps.

Best part, it did NOT overhead, did not leak coolant, the viscous coupling on the fan works, it came to a "roar" and slowed down after cooling. Temps fluctuated and stayed at 196 under load. (190 deg thermostat) most of the time they were bouncing between 186 and 194.

More to come after i get more miles on it.
 
sorry if covered earlier in the thread but can you give details on the GPS speedo setup?
 
@erics I went a bit nuts trying to just get past the last hurdle on this thing. I'll admit, it is spendy, but REALLY cool.. and functional. I was super frustrated, the whole project was just about done but my speedometer was bouncing all over and it came down to take apart a speedo, hope i have what i need to talk to the ECU or just suck it up and buy the correct part.. After the last year I went thru i was ready to just heat up the bank account. When ya lose your best friend/wheeling buddy ya really just don't care what it takes anymore to get the project completed.. So now i have a really cool cluster that works. I attached a picture of what i had put together originally for it. Technology changed during this build cause i was so slow..

Gauge Cluster, dakota digital RTX module SKU: RTX-62T-FJ-X ($1500)
dakota digital gps-50-2 module/BIM ($200)
Optional Remote GPS antenna, part 600041 ($20)
outside temp module PN 244-SEN-15-1 ($20)
I will NEVER go back to trying to utilize stock gauges with any sort of swap in a 40/45. I will be using this same system this summer on an LS swap in a 40. Should be even easier with a Dakota Digital BIM-01-2 OBD-II which should pull all the data directly from the LS and save the expense of swapping in aftermarket sending units.

The cluster now will give me multiple odometers, a distance to empty, distance to oil change, outside temp, just about anything you could imagine you can program into the display with your phone. Examples attached. you can see it was idling normal earlier then started to climb. it doesn't look out of place.
There are so many cool options on these clusters.

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what did you use for cab mounts under seat. looks like a big letter X. if i asked before, sorry, so many posts from folks, i am in need or trans. tunnel cover for 3 spd, running boards on both sides and the cab mounts. update as you can, thank you, kevin
 

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