Builds Tokyo to Wisconsin - JDM HDJ81 Build Thread

[WiscoPat]

While I wait on a few products for the 80, thought I'd provide another trip update.

Last month I explored more Wisconsin OHV and high clearance 4x4 trails with some good T4R and Tacoma dudes I've gotten to know. Good times and some challenging areas - no damage or issues, but some sections required good spotting.

And this past weekend I had the chance to check out 'Heroes on the Dunes,' an annual event honoring veterans at the Silver Lake Sand Dunes in Michigan.

My cousin, local to the area, had something slightly more capable in the sand - his sandrail pride and joy, with an LS 600hp engine and King shocks with 24-28 inches of travel.

 

[WiscoPat]

Today I went to install the White Knuckle Offroad transfer case skid plate, only to find it isn't compatible with my aftermarket 3 inch Legendex exhaust that routes inside the frame rail. So for those of you diesel owners, this is something to keep in mind.

The exhaust interferes with the supplied support arm that connects via ubolt to the frame - I probably should have asked about that in advance. Looks like an alternative solution or no skid plate will be the only other options.

 

[ikarus]

Today I went to install the White Knuckle Offroad transfer case skid plate, only to find it isn't compatible with my aftermarket 3 inch Legendex exhaust that routes inside the frame rail. So for those of you diesel owners, this is something to keep in mind.

The exhaust interferes with the supplied support arm that connects via ubolt to the frame - I probably should have asked about that in advance. Looks like an alternative solution or no skid plate will be the only other options.

View attachment 3381376
View attachment 3381377View attachment 3381378

Good to know. Would it work ok if the exhaust was in the stock location outside the frame rail?

 

[WiscoPat]

Good to know. Would it work ok if the exhaust was in the stock location outside the frame rail?

I would assume so yes. There are other options that may be better suited, but more expensive. The Slee belly skid plate looks like something I might try out, for example.

 

[bj70_guy]

Check with @TRAIL TAILOR , he's building the Cruisin' Off Road skid plate now - it might work for you.

80 Series front and rear Cruisin skid plates

Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series front and rear Cruisin skid plates Made from ¼” A50 Steel (50KSI tensile strength) Laser cut and CNC bent for accuracy Available in bare metal only

trail-tailor.com

 

[WiscoPat]

Check with @TRAIL TAILOR , he's building the Cruisin' Off Road skid plate now - it might work for you.

80 Series front and rear Cruisin skid plates

Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series front and rear Cruisin skid plates Made from ¼” A50 Steel (50KSI tensile strength) Laser cut and CNC bent for accuracy Available in bare metal only

trail-tailor.com

Good to know, I'll check it out!

 

[duece71]

Interested in a skid plate as well. I have the Torqit outside the frame 3” pipe and would want something compatible. Thank you for posting.

 

[veiloctane]

Welcome!

This thread will be an ongoing journey in my ownership experience. It will encompass some usual (and perhaps unusual) maintenance, as well as modifications, any mishaps, adventures, and learning about my 80 Series - a 1995 JDM HDJ81 factory turbodiesel, specifically the 1HD-FT engine mated with an A442F transmission and HF2A transfer case. In the unlikely event of a future sale, it will also provide context and history for a new potential owner.

Originally imported by a Toyota/Lexus mechanic in MA, at the time of purchasing the vehicle, July of 2021, it had approximately 119,000 original kilometers (or approximately 74,000 miles) with only minor surface rust and some service history/mods from the PO. No body damage other than a minor dent in the tailgate.

The intention of this purchase was to have a long-term, dedicated platform for wheeling, camping, and general exploring. It's also a way for me to increase my mechanical knowledge and learn more about how to properly modify a 4x4 to be a jack of all trades. While this vehicle is intended to be used, it won't be abused - garage-kept, never driven in the winter when road salt is prevalent, properly maintained, and quality modifications throughout.

Of course, this thread is useless without photos. How it came to the US in its original form:

View attachment 2960564View attachment 2960566View attachment 2960567View attachment 2960568View attachment 2960569

Notable Current Maintenance and Modification List - Updated 12.11.2022:

Modifications:
- ARB deluxe bull bar
- Disc Brake Australia (DBA) front and rear disc brake rotors and pads
- Dobinsons C59-176 front linear rate coils - rated at 3" lift with 120lbs constant load
- Dobinsons C59-167 rear linear rate coils w/ new OEM rubber isolators - rated at 3" lift with 120lbs constant load
- Dobinsons IMS front and rear shocks
- Dobinsons radius arm 2.5 degree castor correction rubber bushings
- Dobinsons 0"-6" lift brake proportioning valve bracket, zinc plated
- DIY 3/4" plywood sleeping platform and storage compartments w/ rear seat delete
- Escape Gear front seat covers
- Land Cruiser Phil/Land Cruiser Products transfer case shifter extension
- Legendex 3 inch turbo-back exhaust. 409 grade stainless tube with heat-treated coating, 304 grade stainless muffler, resonator, and dump pipe.
- Nitto Ridge Grapplers 315/75 r16, load range E (x5), 73lbs each
- Spoiler delete (top and rear)
- Stealth Custom Series (SCS) F5 wheels (x5) - 16x8, 0 offset, 4.5 backspace, 18lbs 13oz each
- STEDI Type X Sport spot lights
- Trail Tailor soft shackle frame recovery points (x2)
- Trekboxx Richlite tailgate cover
- Unique Mats all weather mats
- Wits End rear hatch gas struts
- YodaTEQ left rear antenna mount

Maintenance baseline completed as of 6.28.22 | 125,000KM:
- New OEM brake calipers, front and rear
- New OEM brake lines - all four calipers and frame to axle
- New OEM engine air filter
- New OEM engine oil filter w/ 2.5 gallons Shell Rotella 10W-30
- New OEM engine fuel filter
- New OEM timing belt and tensioner
- Power steering fluid flushed and replaced
- Coolant flushed and replaced
- Brake fluid flushed and replaced
- Automatic transmission fluid flushed and replaced (Dextron 2)
- Rear diff oil replaced (LSD SAE 75W-110)
- Front diff oil replaced (SAE 75W-90)
- Transfer case oil replaced (SAE 75W-90)
- Drive shaft u joints and slip yokes greased with Lucas Red N Tacky
- All lines and belts inspected

Upcoming preventative maintenance:
- Complete front and rear axle rebuild with new bearings, gaskets, seals, and grease - Cruiser Outfitters
- New batteries, leads, and connections
- New alternator
- New turbo

I need those super wide fender flares

 

[WiscoPat]

Recently received my Dissent Off Road high clearance front bumper and paired it with a Harbor Freight 12k apex winch.

I opted for the bumper with the full bull bar/hoops. Everything arrived in about 8 weeks from time of ordering and went off to get sandblasted to prep for two coats of Steel-It black paint. Packaging and communication were both excellent.

If you're pairing the bumper with a winch, assembly takes the better part of a day - this is the main con compared to something like an ARB bumper. Whereas the ARB is all welded as one piece ready for install, the Dissent came in 12 pieces, excluding shims for the frame rails (this varies based on bumper options). That said, it's about 30-35 pounds lighter than the ARB.

Initially I thought that I'd have to relocate the winch control box when test fitting the center section of the bumper. But, making two small cuts on the lower section of body sheet metal below the grille and massaging it back with a hammer allowed for just enough clearance of the top mounted control box; this would likely work for something like the new ComeUp winches too. Fits like a glove and no relocation needed!

There were otherwise two cons. First, there was a CNC issue with this batch of bumpers and it made the holes for the recovery points on the bumper not line up for mounting hardware. Dissent did make me aware of this and it was a simple fix of boring out a few holes. Second, there was some hardware missing, specifically needed to mount the light hoops. I'll be contacting Dissent about this and I'm sure they'll make it right.

Overall I'm happy with how things turned! Despite the couple of issues, I think it's one of the best front bumpers on the US market for the 80 series.

 

[WiscoPat]

To follow up on my last post, here's the (mostly) finished result - killer product by Dissent.

 

[OffRoadScott]

To follow up on my last post, here's the (mostly) finished result - killer product by Dissent.

View attachment 3410354

I love the Dissent bumpers. Have you seen the high clearance bumper they did for Black Hills Builds? If not check out that name on IG. Almost 50 degrees of departure built into the bumper.

 

[WiscoPat]

I love the Dissent bumpers. Have you seen the high clearance bumper they did for Black Hills Builds? If not check out that name on IG. Almost 50 degrees of departure built into the bumper.

I've actually asked them about making it available for general production and they're gauging interest.

Though, for me, I'll likely go with a 4x4 labs. I'd like a spare (externally mounted) with me and will probably move up to 37s at some point. Plus the labs bumper has the option for a rear-mounted winch - while it would be added weight, could come in clutch for solo remote travel and tight trails.

 

[OffRoadScott]

I've actually asked them about making it available for general production and they're gauging interest.

Though, for me, I'll likely go with a 4x4 labs. I'd like a spare (externally mounted) with me and will probably move up to 37s at some point. Plus the labs bumper has the option for a rear-mounted winch - while it would be added weight, could come in clutch for solo remote travel and tight trails.

I reached out to them as well. I love the 4x4 Labs stuff as well.

 

[WiscoPat]

Received some neat stickers today from @yodaTEQ - gotta love Mud-affiliated vendors.

The actual contents will pair well with the Stedi lights on the front bumper that I've had for the past year.

 

[WiscoPat]

Hosted a mod party with some Toyota guys I know. The order of the day for me was to remove the rear bumper trim panels and the fender flares.

The rubber gaskets on the fender flares were in poor condition and I've heard a noise from under the driver's side flare for quite a while. After removing it, I found out why:

Clearly not a factory option. At some point in this land cruiser's history, someone in Japan must have attempted a fiberglass repair job.

That said, I really dig the look without the flares and have decided not to put them back on - the body lines really shine. The flares also hold in lots of mud and debris against the paint, which could lead to a major problem down the road.

Now the challenge will be to figure out how to fill in all of the holes. I've looked at options on Mud, from plugs to sugru to welding, but if anyone has an easy DIY solution, I'm all ears!

 

[ikarus]

Yeah that looks great! I like the flare-less look. I would probably want to do it "correct" and weld up the holes/repaint but that's a lot of work.

 

[WiscoPat]

Yeah that looks great! I like the flare-less look. I would probably want to do it "correct" and weld up the holes/repaint but that's a lot of work.

A respray is on the list, but definitely towards the bottom. I'm thinking something like a Laurel Green would be really sharp, though I realize that goes against the grain of not using an OEM paint code.

I'm going to try various plugs meanwhile, I think. Though perhaps not entirely water proof, they should do the job until I either have the means for someone else to do a body-off respray or I tackle it myself.

 

[WiscoPat]

Went for a quick Sunday drive after making some progress on cleaning up the aftermath of the flare removal.

I agree with @ikarus that the best thing would be to weld all of the holes (there are like 30-40 total) fill, and paint. Sadly, I don't have the capital at the moment, so I'll be using push pins or similar to keep water out.

But man, I dig the look! Plus, the fender flares held a  massive amount of dirt against the paint. There was some rust developing and a ton of debris etched into the paint. For now, though, it's another step towards the end goal I have in mind, which will include @SNLC and Campteq.

 

[ikarus]

Went for a quick Sunday drive after making some progress on cleaning up the aftermath of the flare removal.

View attachment 3432607

I agree with @ikarus that the best thing would be to weld all of the holes (there are like 30-40 total) fill, and paint. Sadly, I don't have the capital at the moment, so I'll be using push pins or similar to keep water out.

But man, I dig the look! Plus, the fender flares held a  massive amount of dirt against the paint. There was some rust developing and a ton of debris etched into the paint. For now, though, it's another step towards the end goal I have in mind, which will include @SNLC and Campteq.

I haven’t looked into it at all so I’m sure there are some great ideas out there. But I wonder if you could get small pieces of sheet metal and bond them to the back of the fender using auto body seam sealer. Then fill the holes with bondo and paint it.

 

[WiscoPat]

Currently having heat and insulation put into my detached garage for working on the 80 during the winter. Meanwhile, it's always a good day to get the old girl out to stretch her legs.

Enjoying it without flares!