I am considering a fender flare delete as well. Are you going to go the individual plug route for the holes or a more permanent solution?
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- #82
I'm going to do a more permanent solution. Currently just deciding on some sort of bondo, soldering the holes, or having a shop do it.
I've seen interesting demos of how some body repair shops will use solder for hole repair, so I might give that a try when my garage is done in the next month or two. The benefit of using solder instead of welding is that there isn't any scoring left behind on the inside of panels, which could lead to rust/rot down the road.
I drove minena few months like that. The road spray down the sides was atrocious and the holes drove me bonkers.
I factory non flare, that's where I'd like to be lol
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- #84
It's been quite a while since I've updated my thread, but some exciting plans are in motion!
I'm currently planning a road trip to Alaska and back, sometime around August 2025, and intend on going to Iceland and Australia. In order to prep for all this, I've been asking shops nationwide about refreshing the drivetrain as much as possible, to essentially an OEM+ spec.
I've decided to go with Torfab and will post more progress; we're in the parts gathering stage at the moment. Initial specs will include the following:
- 1HD-FT complete refresh with GTurbo green wheel and PDI intercooler.
- Transfer case regear to 3.3/1 low range and 1.097/1 high range.
- Long Range America 37 gallon main tank and 24 gallon aux tank.
- 12v starter conversion with some Redarc goodies.
I'll also likely be deleting the OEM rear tire swingout in favor of a Dissent rear bumper with dual swingouts. New paint to the exterior coming soon (staying with Desert Dune Pearl).
Update photo of the 80 from a trip earlier this month.
I'm currently planning a road trip to Alaska and back, sometime around August 2025, and intend on going to Iceland and Australia. In order to prep for all this, I've been asking shops nationwide about refreshing the drivetrain as much as possible, to essentially an OEM+ spec.
I've decided to go with Torfab and will post more progress; we're in the parts gathering stage at the moment. Initial specs will include the following:
- 1HD-FT complete refresh with GTurbo green wheel and PDI intercooler.
- Transfer case regear to 3.3/1 low range and 1.097/1 high range.
- Long Range America 37 gallon main tank and 24 gallon aux tank.
- 12v starter conversion with some Redarc goodies.
I'll also likely be deleting the OEM rear tire swingout in favor of a Dissent rear bumper with dual swingouts. New paint to the exterior coming soon (staying with Desert Dune Pearl).
Update photo of the 80 from a trip earlier this month.
- Thread starter
- #85
For those who might be curious about not running fender flares and what to do with all of the holes left behind, I've been sealing up the fender flare holes by using an old school trick: flux core solder.
For small holes (up to 1/4 inch), this method works a treat. Remove paint around the hole, use a drill bit or punch to create a slightly concave surface for more contact, heat (or "tin") the metal, and apply solder. Use a toothbrush and water to clear out the acid, and grind/sand to finish. Larger holes require a patch that can also be soldered on, or taped on from the back of the panel (if you have access).
Takes a bit to get the hang of, but not too challenging. Plus, a metal to metal bond should last as long as any other solution.
I'm using a Weller 200/300W soldering gun and 40/60 flux core Oatey solder. Learned this from YouTube university.
For small holes (up to 1/4 inch), this method works a treat. Remove paint around the hole, use a drill bit or punch to create a slightly concave surface for more contact, heat (or "tin") the metal, and apply solder. Use a toothbrush and water to clear out the acid, and grind/sand to finish. Larger holes require a patch that can also be soldered on, or taped on from the back of the panel (if you have access).
Takes a bit to get the hang of, but not too challenging. Plus, a metal to metal bond should last as long as any other solution.
I'm using a Weller 200/300W soldering gun and 40/60 flux core Oatey solder. Learned this from YouTube university.
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- Thread starter
- #86
A few more glamour shots from a recent trip, for your viewing pleasure (photo credit to camerasandcoffee on Tacomaworld).
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- #87
Major updates happening as we speak!
A little over two weeks ago, I had the 80 loaded up and transported to Torfab in Washington state. We coordinated for months on build, parts, and planning.
It's currently under the knife and will be ready for pick up in October.
Aside from the mechanical work, the body holes left behind from the fender flares/door trim will be welded and the lower half repainted in desert dune pearl. I've always liked the look of the "poverty spec" 80s without plastic and fiberglass - eagerly awaiting the end result.
A little over two weeks ago, I had the 80 loaded up and transported to Torfab in Washington state. We coordinated for months on build, parts, and planning.
It's currently under the knife and will be ready for pick up in October.
Aside from the mechanical work, the body holes left behind from the fender flares/door trim will be welded and the lower half repainted in desert dune pearl. I've always liked the look of the "poverty spec" 80s without plastic and fiberglass - eagerly awaiting the end result.
- Thread starter
- #89
You've been making a ton of cool progress, yourself! Your cruiser looks excellent.
If you want I can drive by and wave at it for you
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- #91
Torfab has been cranking away on the refresh of the drivetrain, axles, and fuel tanks.
Axle housings have been coated with POR-15. Front and rear diffs now sport Eaton lockers. Front and rear axles are using DBA brake rotors and pads with new OEM calipers, as well as all bearings and seals replaced using Timken rebuild kits from Cruiser Outfitters. Front axle CVs replaced with RCV 30/30 axle shafts and birfields.
The stock fuel tank has been replaced with a 37 gallon LRA tank, and I've also opted for a 24 gallon LRA aux tank in the rear. This will eliminate the need for jerry cans, keep weight low, and give me 61 gallons of total diesel capacity, or about 1,000 miles of range. While costly, I've done this with future international travel through rural areas in mind, where fuel may be costly, poor quality, unavailable, and/or rationed.
The transfer case has been torn down and reassembled using 3.1:1 Sumo low range gears, which will offer a 25% reduction when crawling.
Also, the engine is being reassembled and parts coated. More to come!
Axle housings have been coated with POR-15. Front and rear diffs now sport Eaton lockers. Front and rear axles are using DBA brake rotors and pads with new OEM calipers, as well as all bearings and seals replaced using Timken rebuild kits from Cruiser Outfitters. Front axle CVs replaced with RCV 30/30 axle shafts and birfields.
The stock fuel tank has been replaced with a 37 gallon LRA tank, and I've also opted for a 24 gallon LRA aux tank in the rear. This will eliminate the need for jerry cans, keep weight low, and give me 61 gallons of total diesel capacity, or about 1,000 miles of range. While costly, I've done this with future international travel through rural areas in mind, where fuel may be costly, poor quality, unavailable, and/or rationed.
The transfer case has been torn down and reassembled using 3.1:1 Sumo low range gears, which will offer a 25% reduction when crawling.
Also, the engine is being reassembled and parts coated. More to come!
- Thread starter
- #92
Engine, transfer case, axles, and fuel tanks are now completed by Torfab, with a minor snag...the injection pump isn't producing enough vacuum after its rebuild. We're confident the rebuild shop missed something simple, like a small spring, and they've promised to make it right.
Torfab did say that the engine was in great condition before they went to work on it. It was clear that whoever had it before me in Japan took good care of the 1HD-FT, and that made for a smooth refresh process.
Meanwhile, it's currently getting a body makeover down the street from Torfab. All of the body holes from the fender flares and door trim will be welded, and a partial respray will be done in its OEM color of desert dune.
Torfab did say that the engine was in great condition before they went to work on it. It was clear that whoever had it before me in Japan took good care of the 1HD-FT, and that made for a smooth refresh process.
Meanwhile, it's currently getting a body makeover down the street from Torfab. All of the body holes from the fender flares and door trim will be welded, and a partial respray will be done in its OEM color of desert dune.
- Thread starter
- #93
The 80 is looking spiffy!
Fresh coat of paint - in its primary OEM color, Desert Dune - on the hood, front fenders, tailgate, and along the body, up to the body line running along the sides. The little side mirror on left front fender was removed, in favor of a cleaner look.
For those who don't know, that little JDM mirror is mainly for parallel parking use.
I'm thrilled with how it came out, hats off to Hansons Auto in Everett, WA.
Fresh coat of paint - in its primary OEM color, Desert Dune - on the hood, front fenders, tailgate, and along the body, up to the body line running along the sides. The little side mirror on left front fender was removed, in favor of a cleaner look.
For those who don't know, that little JDM mirror is mainly for parallel parking use.
I'm thrilled with how it came out, hats off to Hansons Auto in Everett, WA.
Do you still have the fender mirror? I can take it off your hands if you are willing to sell.
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- #95
I'll ask if the body shop still has it. I may hold on to it for nostalgia, but otherwise we can pm details.
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- #96
Flew out this week to Seattle and reunited with the 80, after mechanical work was finished by Torfab and Hanson Auto completed the body work and partial respray.
Initial impressions? I'm thrilled. Massive steps forward towards the end vision of what I have in mind.
First time in the PNW - though it's raining steadily, the landscape is stunning.
Initial impressions? I'm thrilled. Massive steps forward towards the end vision of what I have in mind.
First time in the PNW - though it's raining steadily, the landscape is stunning.
Man.... Should've said hi
- Thread starter
- #98
Now that I've had my cruiser back for a couple weeks since its makeover, I thought it would be helpful to go over everything I've done to the drivetrain, axle housings, fuel tanks, interior, and exterior, especially for those browsing this thread and interested in doing similar things.
The build isn't complete yet, but major milestones were accomplished through Torfab and Hanson Auto Rebuild in Everett, WA.
1HD-FT Refresh:
- Cleaning of engine
- Vapor honing of intake manifold
- Vapor honing of timing cover
- Ceramic coating of exhaust manifold
- Replacement of all gaskets, seals, and O-rings
- New OEM motor mounts
- New 1HD-FT OEM power steering pump assembly
- New 1HD-FT OEM power steering reservoir
- New 1HD-FT OEM water pump
- New 1HD-T OEM radiator, modified for 1HD-FT application
- New 1HD-T OEM fan clutch
- New OEM vacuum hoses, coolant soft lines, fuel soft lines, block to heater valve hose, and low pressure power steering lines
- New GTurbo Green Wheel
- New PDI front mount intercooler kit
- New Torfab diesel air box with 4 inch inlet and outlet (LB7 Duramax air filter)
- New Duramax fuel filter and fuel filter assembly (LB7 Duramax fuel filter)
- Zeal Diesel Power Rod: precision machined aneroid rod for tuning capabilities
- Rebuild of mechanical injection pump
- Rebuild of injectors and allowing for +5% increase of fuel injection
- Injection lines re-plated (silver zinc)
- Recharge A/C system with R134A and new A/C condensor
12V Starter Conversion
- New OEM 12V starter
- Removal of 12-24V starter solenoid
- RedArc Dual Input 25A In-Vehicle DC Battery Charger mounted to custom bracket
- Main starter battery isolated from secondary house battery
- 2 Full Throttle Group 27 AGM batteries
Front Axle Rebuild
- Removal of surface rust and repaint of axle housing
- New RCV CV Axle set: 30/30 spline and 300M shaft upgrade (replaced OEM due to birfields being worn and outer assembly impacted)
- New Timken bearings, seals, lock washers, and gaskets (Cruiser Outfitters kit)
- New Disc Brake Australia (DBA) front rotors and brake pads
- New 8 inch different rebuild kit with differential pinion seal, housing gasket, carrier bearings, pinion bearings, and crush sleeve
- New 8 inch 30 spline Eaton E-locker
- 4.11 OEM gears retained
- NAPA 80W-90 gear oil
Rear Axle Rebuild
- Removal of surface rust and repaint of axle housing
- OEM axle shafts retained due to being in good condition
- New Timken bearings, seals, lock washers, and gaskets (Cruiser Outfitters kit)
- New park brake shoes
- New Disc Brake Australia (DBA) rear rotors and brake pads
- 9.5 inch different rebuild kit with differential pinion seal, housing gasket, carrier bearings, pinion bearings, and crush sleeve
- 9.5 inch 30 spline Eaton E-locker
- 4.11 OEM gears retained
- NAPA 80W-90 gear oil
HF2A Transfer Case Re-Gear
- Sumo Gear 3.1:1 low range gear set: 25% reduction in low range
- 1:1 OEM high range retained
- NAPA 80W-90 gear oil
Main Fuel Tank
- Long Range America 37 gallon main tank
- All fuel lines replaced
- New fuel rod installed and adjusted for OEM fuel gauge
- New 12V lift pump installed on frame to assist and help preserve injection pump
Auxiliary Fuel Tank
- Long Range American 24 gallon auxiliary tank
- 12V pump to main tank
Steering
- New 555 tie rod ends
- Alignment
Interior
- Removal of JDM reverse beeper in center console (thank God)
- Replace burned out "D" light (biggest upgrade, obviously)
- Wiring Eaton E-locker harness into passenger kick panel, intercept factory locker wiring and allow for factory indicators to display in dash. Independent operation of rear diff lock, then front diff lock, from Hi/Lo range or center diff lock.
- New OEM diff lock switch
- Delta Vehicle Systems shift console with Autometer boost and EGT manual gauges installed
- Switch installed in DVS console to link house battery to main battery, allowing for self-jump start capability in the event the starter battery dies
- RedArc trailer brakes and 7/4 pin connectors installed in 4x4 Labs rear bumper
- Long Range America auxiliary fuel tank gauge and pump switch installed
Exterior
- All holes left over from door panel trim and fender flares welded
- Removal of JDM front fender parallel parking mirror
- Front panels and hood repainted
- Door panels and rear panels painted up to body line (pillars, roof, and hatch were not painted)
- Interior door panels painted
- Tailgate painted and sticker/emblem removals
- OEM tire carrier retained (no issues with 35s in the past 3.5 years)
The build isn't complete yet, but major milestones were accomplished through Torfab and Hanson Auto Rebuild in Everett, WA.
1HD-FT Refresh:
- Cleaning of engine
- Vapor honing of intake manifold
- Vapor honing of timing cover
- Ceramic coating of exhaust manifold
- Replacement of all gaskets, seals, and O-rings
- New OEM motor mounts
- New 1HD-FT OEM power steering pump assembly
- New 1HD-FT OEM power steering reservoir
- New 1HD-FT OEM water pump
- New 1HD-T OEM radiator, modified for 1HD-FT application
- New 1HD-T OEM fan clutch
- New OEM vacuum hoses, coolant soft lines, fuel soft lines, block to heater valve hose, and low pressure power steering lines
- New GTurbo Green Wheel
- New PDI front mount intercooler kit
- New Torfab diesel air box with 4 inch inlet and outlet (LB7 Duramax air filter)
- New Duramax fuel filter and fuel filter assembly (LB7 Duramax fuel filter)
- Zeal Diesel Power Rod: precision machined aneroid rod for tuning capabilities
- Rebuild of mechanical injection pump
- Rebuild of injectors and allowing for +5% increase of fuel injection
- Injection lines re-plated (silver zinc)
- Recharge A/C system with R134A and new A/C condensor
12V Starter Conversion
- New OEM 12V starter
- Removal of 12-24V starter solenoid
- RedArc Dual Input 25A In-Vehicle DC Battery Charger mounted to custom bracket
- Main starter battery isolated from secondary house battery
- 2 Full Throttle Group 27 AGM batteries
Front Axle Rebuild
- Removal of surface rust and repaint of axle housing
- New RCV CV Axle set: 30/30 spline and 300M shaft upgrade (replaced OEM due to birfields being worn and outer assembly impacted)
- New Timken bearings, seals, lock washers, and gaskets (Cruiser Outfitters kit)
- New Disc Brake Australia (DBA) front rotors and brake pads
- New 8 inch different rebuild kit with differential pinion seal, housing gasket, carrier bearings, pinion bearings, and crush sleeve
- New 8 inch 30 spline Eaton E-locker
- 4.11 OEM gears retained
- NAPA 80W-90 gear oil
Rear Axle Rebuild
- Removal of surface rust and repaint of axle housing
- OEM axle shafts retained due to being in good condition
- New Timken bearings, seals, lock washers, and gaskets (Cruiser Outfitters kit)
- New park brake shoes
- New Disc Brake Australia (DBA) rear rotors and brake pads
- 9.5 inch different rebuild kit with differential pinion seal, housing gasket, carrier bearings, pinion bearings, and crush sleeve
- 9.5 inch 30 spline Eaton E-locker
- 4.11 OEM gears retained
- NAPA 80W-90 gear oil
HF2A Transfer Case Re-Gear
- Sumo Gear 3.1:1 low range gear set: 25% reduction in low range
- 1:1 OEM high range retained
- NAPA 80W-90 gear oil
Main Fuel Tank
- Long Range America 37 gallon main tank
- All fuel lines replaced
- New fuel rod installed and adjusted for OEM fuel gauge
- New 12V lift pump installed on frame to assist and help preserve injection pump
Auxiliary Fuel Tank
- Long Range American 24 gallon auxiliary tank
- 12V pump to main tank
Steering
- New 555 tie rod ends
- Alignment
Interior
- Removal of JDM reverse beeper in center console (thank God)
- Replace burned out "D" light (biggest upgrade, obviously)
- Wiring Eaton E-locker harness into passenger kick panel, intercept factory locker wiring and allow for factory indicators to display in dash. Independent operation of rear diff lock, then front diff lock, from Hi/Lo range or center diff lock.
- New OEM diff lock switch
- Delta Vehicle Systems shift console with Autometer boost and EGT manual gauges installed
- Switch installed in DVS console to link house battery to main battery, allowing for self-jump start capability in the event the starter battery dies
- RedArc trailer brakes and 7/4 pin connectors installed in 4x4 Labs rear bumper
- Long Range America auxiliary fuel tank gauge and pump switch installed
Exterior
- All holes left over from door panel trim and fender flares welded
- Removal of JDM front fender parallel parking mirror
- Front panels and hood repainted
- Door panels and rear panels painted up to body line (pillars, roof, and hatch were not painted)
- Interior door panels painted
- Tailgate painted and sticker/emblem removals
- OEM tire carrier retained (no issues with 35s in the past 3.5 years)
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- Thread starter
- #99
As a side note, I'm very thankful for the people who've helped make this happen and the inspiration drawn from this forum.
Shoutout to @cruiseroutfit for all of the ready-made quality kits and parts.
Shoutout to @cruiseroutfit for all of the ready-made quality kits and parts.
- Thread starter
- #100
Just added a K9 roof rack from Eezi Awn, built in South Africa and delivered by way of @Equipt in Salt Lake City. Great company to work with.
This thing as an absolute unit. The rack itself is one piece of welded aluminum, with 8 mounting feet to the gutter rails; the mounting feet are 1/4" steel with rubber protection for contact with the body. All supplied hardware is grade 8 - most of it is yellow zinc coated with nylon nuts and lock washers. The mounting slats run vertical with the vehicle, not horizontal like virtually every other rack out there. This helps to have reduced drag and essentially no wind noise at all speeds. I couldn't even tell it was up there.
In terms of cons, it's heavy, due to its beefy construction. With the half rack I have, it's about 80lbs with the mounting feet/hardware. There also weren't instructions supplied, but it's easy enough to figure out. Lastly, the mounting feet will rub the top of the rear passenger door seals when opening/closing - hopefully that doesn't become an issue over time.
Overall, very happy with it. It'll come in handy for future trips.
This thing as an absolute unit. The rack itself is one piece of welded aluminum, with 8 mounting feet to the gutter rails; the mounting feet are 1/4" steel with rubber protection for contact with the body. All supplied hardware is grade 8 - most of it is yellow zinc coated with nylon nuts and lock washers. The mounting slats run vertical with the vehicle, not horizontal like virtually every other rack out there. This helps to have reduced drag and essentially no wind noise at all speeds. I couldn't even tell it was up there.
In terms of cons, it's heavy, due to its beefy construction. With the half rack I have, it's about 80lbs with the mounting feet/hardware. There also weren't instructions supplied, but it's easy enough to figure out. Lastly, the mounting feet will rub the top of the rear passenger door seals when opening/closing - hopefully that doesn't become an issue over time.
Overall, very happy with it. It'll come in handy for future trips.
