To re-gear or not to re-gear?

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The LC200 i'm looking to buy does around 80mph at 2100 rpms. Is that a telltale sign that it has been regeared? Or, is the speedometer just off. The seller and I have been unable to track down the first owner to find out if a regear had been done or not. It's ruding on 35/12.5/17 KM3s.
I'd use GPS to track speed to compare to the chart. The KM3 (34.5") is about 10% bigger than OEM so reads about 10% slower on the dash than actual speed. I've found that the 200 usually reads about 4-5% fast from the factory. So your real speed is probably 5-6% over what the indicated speed in the dash shows. So if you are reading 80, might actually be going 85.
 
We’ve done many 3.90, 4.30 and 4.88 gear swaps in 200’s, including many 16+. IMO, 3.90 is perfect in the 16+ with 33-35” tires, 4.30 in 35-37. 4.10 would be a neat option.

We just finished another Maltec 200 build, they are all getting 3.90/ARB diffs and work perfect with the added weight and increased tire size.

We did 4.88 on a supercharged 16+ (LX570), 2nd start was mandatory use :D
Do you do these in your shop? I planned to get my 80 regeared but was told you only provide the built third members.
 
Shows right there it’s 2700 at 80 with 34s. Thats no big deal for that motor at all.
I'll buy that. It'll vary by tire size. To be fair I don't really look at the tach much except when towing, and in that case I limit myself to 4th or 5th and keeping it under 75 so I'm shooting from memory. But 4.88s on the 6 speed are definitely waaaaay less than 5k RPMs.
 
Pretty sure I remember someone in this section going 4.88 in a 16+ and wishing they hadn’t gone so short.

I don’t want to be the word nazi but we may be getting some terms mixed up. The way I learned it “taller” gears are a lower ratio, and “shorter” is referring to a higher ratio. Long and short more referring to the max speed with each setup…
 
We’ve done many 3.90, 4.30 and 4.88 gear swaps in 200’s, including many 16+. IMO, 3.90 is perfect in the 16+ with 33-35” tires, 4.30 in 35-37. 4.10 would be a neat option.

We just finished another Maltec 200 build, they are all getting 3.90/ARB diffs and work perfect with the added weight and increased tire size.

We did 4.88 on a supercharged 16+ (LX570), 2nd start was mandatory use :D
Cool. So, you're saying if it hasn't been re geared, I should be fine running 35s. What about if it has gotten a re-gear, would I be ok to downsize the tires?
 
Cool. So, you're saying if it hasn't been re geared, I should be fine running 35s. What about if it has gotten a re-gear, would I be ok to downsize the tires?
My opinion, having had 4.88s on a 6 speed for 5 years, is it's a one way ticket to 35" land. There aren't any downsides except fuel economy, and if you cared about that you wouldn't be in a 200 to start with.
 
My opinion, having had 4.88s on a 6 speed for 5 years, is it's a one way ticket to 35" land. There aren't any downsides except fuel economy, and if you cared about that you wouldn't be in a 200 to start with.
Got it. Not very concerned about fuel economy. I just know that I will want to downsize tires when they do wear out, and i'm trying to figure out if I'm stuck with 35s or if I can comfortably run smaller tires (33-34s) with a pleasant driving experience.
 
Got it. Not very concerned about fuel economy. I just know that I will want to downsize tires when they do wear out, and i'm trying to figure out if I'm stuck with 35s or if I can comfortably run smaller tires (33-34s) with a pleasant driving experience.
You might consider the gear ratios for stock 200’s and tundras…

What did the tundra rock warrior (33” tire) package come with? 4.10’s standard? 4.30’s towing package?

4.10’s and 4.30’s are easy gear ratio’s to find.
 
Pretty sure I remember someone in this section going 4.88 in a 16+ and wishing they hadn’t gone so short.

I don’t want to be the word nazi but we may be getting some terms mixed up. The way I learned it “taller” gears are a lower ratio, and “shorter” is referring to a higher ratio. Long and short more referring to the max speed with each setup…
I believe @indycole has 4.88s on his 8 speed. Not sure if that’s who you’re thinking of though, there are probably others who did the swap early on before people realized the transmission gear ratios
 
Got it. Not very concerned about fuel economy. I just know that I will want to downsize tires when they do wear out, and i'm trying to figure out if I'm stuck with 35s or if I can comfortably run smaller tires (33-34s) with a pleasant driving experience.
I ran 34s on 4.88s on the 6 speed. Highway is fine. 33s would be ok too though you really want 4.30. Very go kart though especially with ECT PWR enabled.

If youre regeared and have 35s and they don’t rub, there aren’t a lot of advantages to smaller tires. My MPG actually got better from 34-35” and the transmission shifts smoother.
 
I ran 34s on 4.88s on the 6 speed. Highway is fine. 33s would be ok too though you really want 4.30. Very go kart though especially with ECT PWR enabled.

If youre regeared and have 35s and they don’t rub, there aren’t a lot of advantages to smaller tires. My MPG actually got better from 34-35” and the transmission shifts smoother.
33’s on 4.10’s in the 6 speed, I think, returns rpm to near oem on 31.5’s

I expect 4.30’s would act like “tow package” for 33’s with the 6 speed.
 
Got it. Not very concerned about fuel economy. I just know that I will want to downsize tires when they do wear out, and i'm trying to figure out if I'm stuck with 35s or if I can comfortably run smaller tires (33-34s) with a pleasant driving experience.
Only about 150 miles on 275/65r18 with the 4.88s.
Acceleration was very immediate.

You can look at the speed chart above for the rpm’s at this size (32” maybe?). And drive on the freeway at that rpm (use select mode to pick 4th or 5th).

Then you can decide if that rpm would be an issue. I suspect it wouldn’t be.
 
I believe @indycole has 4.88s on his 8 speed. Not sure if that’s who you’re thinking of though, there are probably others who did the swap early on before people realized the transmission gear ratios
No, it was more recent. Someone in the last year or two did a full build and was trying to decide on gears. I’ll see if I can dig it up.
 
Do you do these in your shop? I planned to get my 80 regeared but was told you only provide the built third members.

Depends on the current shop bandwidth. We build customer and core differentials. If shop bandwidth allows we've also done complete re-gears on hundreds of Cruisers over the decades.
 
Pretty sure I remember someone in this section going 4.88 in a 16+ and wishing they hadn’t gone so short.

I don’t want to be the word nazi but we may be getting some terms mixed up. The way I learned it “taller” gears are a lower ratio, and “shorter” is referring to a higher ratio. Long and short more referring to the max speed with each setup…

I remember that story too.
 
I know this is an old thread with a lot of info, but I'll throw in my perspective in case it helps anyone on the fence about this decision. 2010 6-speed LX. Pretty much no extra weight except tires and sliders. I do not carry the kitchen sink in my truck.

I ran 35's with stock gears for about 2 years and I thought it was just fine. Even towing our small camping trailer in the mountains, no problem. The 5.7 is a eager motor--just put your foot into it and it will do what you want it to do. Coming from a fzj80, you could probably put 40's on the 200 and I'd still think it was passably powerful :o

Last year I decided it was time for lockers after reaching the traction limitations of my truck. It was logical to do gears at the same time for labor savings and "while you're in there" reasons. I went 4.88. I was honestly pretty underwhelmed by the change. Truck felt a little peppier from a stop. I felt no improvement in general city/hwy driving (not the same as "no difference" - I could feel it was different, just not any better or worse). I felt no difference in the mountains, probably because I used to downshift on grades, so I was effectively using the same ratio to climb as before, just in a different gear. The fine-control of lower gearing off road was more noticeable and a nice upgrade. Engine braking became way more effective.

Bottom line, while I don't regret the choice I made, I probably would not do it again. For someone with a lighter build on 35's who is not getting into the diffs anyway for lockers, I'd leave well enough alone. 🤷‍♂️
 
I know this is an old thread with a lot of info, but I'll throw in my perspective in case it helps anyone on the fence about this decision. 2010 6-speed LX. Pretty much no extra weight except tires and sliders. I do not carry the kitchen sink in my truck.

I ran 35's with stock gears for about 2 years and I thought it was just fine. Even towing our small camping trailer in the mountains, no problem. The 5.7 is a eager motor--just put your foot into it and it will do what you want it to do. Coming from a fzj80, you could probably put 40's on the 200 and I'd still think it was passably powerful :eek:

Last year I decided it was time for lockers after reaching the traction limitations of my truck. It was logical to do gears at the same time for labor savings and "while you're in there" reasons. I went 4.88. I was honestly pretty underwhelmed by the change. Truck felt a little peppier from a stop. I felt no improvement in general city/hwy driving (not the same as "no difference" - I could feel it was different, just not any better or worse). I felt no difference in the mountains, probably because I used to downshift on grades, so I was effectively using the same ratio to climb as before, just in a different gear. The fine-control of lower gearing off road was more noticeable and a nice upgrade. Engine braking became way more effective.

Bottom line, while I don't regret the choice I made, I probably would not do it again. For someone with a lighter build on 35's who is not getting into the diffs anyway for lockers, I'd leave well enough alone. 🤷‍♂️

This is why the internet is so difficult. I've read reviews of 4.88s on the 6 speed 200 everywhere from "it's better than a supercharger" to "meh, i barely noticed a difference".....what's a guy with $4k burning a hole in his pocket supposed to do?
 
Happy to muddy the waters :hillbilly:
 
This is why the internet is so difficult. I've read reviews of 4.88s on the 6 speed 200 everywhere from "it's better than a supercharger" to "meh, i barely noticed a difference".....what's a guy with $4k burning a hole in his pocket supposed to do?

Perfect example of the subjectivity of these things. Tires, ride quality, seat comfort..

It does seem like a large majority of 6-spd people that go 4.88s with larger tires really prefer the way it drives though.
 
I like my 4.88s. And I agree lots of range of response from meh to OMG are viable.
I like them for driving, but also because I don’t have to worry about additional losses to aero, mass, or even towing. It’s just a flexible upgrade that moves the bar higher for other stuff.
 

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