To raptor line or not...

[Skydog]

I'm applying Lizard Skin, to my fire wall, front floor board and Trans tunnel. Does anyone know if I can apply Raptor liner over the Lizard Skin?

Josh

I'm going to be doing the precise same to mine : applying both LizardSkin products, and then topping that with either smoothly rolled Monstaliner, or, single stage paint. I've spoken directly with LizardSkin and the immediate answer is a resounding, "Yes !" The LizardSkin product, although water-based, is massively durable. It easily scratches though. So, LizardSkin & virtually all others suggest the LizardSkin merely serve as undercoat. I was told the Raptor or Monstaliner can be applied with confidence immediately after the flash time of the curing LizardSkin, that it should adhere permanently with no problems. And I was equally told a traditional, 2K automotive single stage paint atop the LizardSkin will make the project equally durable (when compared with the said modern bedliners), and of course attractive. But beyond the flash/cure time, the LizardSkin must be first scuffed, and then the bedliner or paint applied. It is important to note that all three products (Raptor, Monstaliner, and LizardSkin) are far best suited if applied atop a 2K epoxy primer. Therefore, my own vision of steps, for the topside & underside of the tub, plus both sides of the firewall on my own vehicle is : 1) sealer; 2) 2K epoxy primer; 3) LizardSkin Sound Control; 4) LizardSlin Heat Control; 5) Let fully cure & then scuff; 6) 2K epoxy primer; 7) Dupont/Axalta Imron 3K single stage industrial paint. And I will then **perhaps** use tinted Monstaliner or Raptor elsewhere; but, will use black Monstaliner or Raptor on the vehicle's rocker panels & underside of the wheel wells. -- Will not only look overly good, but will be overly quiet & inside temperature stable.

The customer service at LizardSkin is SUPER-AWESOME !! They are super-easy to get in touch with - and are more than helpful & understanding. If you are serious about applying either or both of the LizardSkin products, I strongly encourage you/anyone here to first give them a direct call or email. I would then confirm with them how best to top-coat with the polyurethane Raptor or Monstaliner. Perhaps their website states this ?? If you request to them, they will mail to you a sample of each product applied on a metal plate (it really does seem durable - and does not look at all like plastic, which it is of course not).

I never seriously considered LizardSkin early-on, but now think it's a fantastic product. If you wish to instead consider a 2K sound & heat deadening product, I know that Eastwood offers such (but its finished surface is overly thick & rough). ~Skydog

 

[Xpnsv72fj]

I'm going to be doing the precise same to mine : applying both LizardSkin products, and then topping that with either smoothly rolled Monstaliner, or, single stage paint. I've spoken directly with LizardSkin and the immediate answer is a resounding, "Yes !" The LizardSkin product, although water-based, is massively durable. It easily scratches though. So, LizardSkin & virtually all others suggest the LizardSkin merely serve as undercoat. I was told the Raptor or Monstaliner can be applied with confidence immediately after the flash time of the curing LizardSkin, that it should adhere permanently with no problems. And I was equally told a traditional, 2K automotive single stage paint atop the LizardSkin eill make the project equally durable, and perhaps more attractive. But beyond the flash/curr time, the LizardSkin be first scuffed, and then the bedliner or paint applied. It is important to note that all three products (Raptor, Monstaliner, and LizardSkin) are far best suited if applied atop a 2K epoxy primer. Therefore, my own vision of steps, for the topside & underside of the tub, plus both sides of the firewall on my own vehicle is : 1) sealer; 2) 2K epoxy primer; 3) LizardSkin Sound Control; 4) LizardSlin Heat Control; 5) Let fully cure & then scuff; 6) 2K epoxy primer; 7) Dupont/Axalta Imron 3K single stage industrial paint. And I will then **perhaps** use tinted Monstaliner or Raptor elsewhere; but, will use black Monstaliner or Raptor on the vehicle's rocker panels & underside of the wheel wells. -- Will not only look overly good, but will be overly quiet & inside temperature stable.

The customer service at LizardSkin is SUPER-AWESOME !! They are super-easy to get in touch with - and are more than helpful & understanding. If you are serious about applying either or both of the LizardSkin products, I strongly encourage you/anyone here to first give them a direct call or email. I would then confirm with them how best to top-coat with the polyurethane Raptor or Monstaliner. Perhaps their website states this ?? If you request to them, they will mail to you a sample of each product applied on a metal plate (it really does seem durable - and does not look at all like plastic, which it is of course not).

I never seriously considered LizardSkin early-on, but now think it's a fantastic product. If you wish to instead consider a 2K sound & heat deadening product, I know that Eastwood offers such (but its finished surface is thick & rough). ~Skydog

Thank you so much for the reply, my tub has been blasted and is already in a 2k primer. I already have the Lizard Skin Heat Control so I will be using that product for sure. I like your idea of applying 2k on top of the Lizard Skin, it sounds like you have done a ton of homework and I really appreciate you sharing!

Josh

 

[Tank5]

That is a fair amount of chalking. Do you recall if there was a UV stabilizer in your Raptor from 7 years ago? I wonder if periodically spraying exterior applications with 303 protectant or a spray wax or a UV protecting topcoat would minimize this.

Irbis Offroad in Denver sprayed the Raptor liner on the body of the camper. I do know if they added any type of UV stabilizer to it. He told me he used the tintable version. I do not know what steps they took or how they applied it. He did say they sprayed it on.

I sprayed the pop top part of the camper in 2012 with tintable raptor liner and I did not use a UV stabilizer because the directions did not call for it. The part that I sprayed is 5 years old and does not have any chalking. I followed the directions exact on the top that I sprayed. It is holding up great.

 

[Stumpalama]

Irbis Offroad in Denver sprayed the Raptor liner on the body of the camper. I do know if they added any type of UV stabilizer to it. He told me he used the tintable version. I do not know what steps they took or how they applied it. He did say they sprayed it on.

I sprayed the pop top part of the camper in 2012 with tintable raptor liner and I did not use a UV stabilizer because the directions did not call for it. The part that I sprayed is 5 years old and does not have any chalking. I followed the directions exact on the top that I sprayed. It is holding up great.

I wonder if UPol added a UV stabilizer in the intervening years.

 

[Tank5]

Worth a phone call to Upol.

 

[Stumpalama]

From the current Upol website:
"Developed to tolerate most climatic conditions, RAPTOR is UV resistant and won’t fade or “chalk” even after years in the sun. RAPTOR is also waterproof and protects surfaces from rust making it perfect for substrates that will be submerged in water, including salt water. RAPTOR’s versatility makes it perfect for almost any application. Spray or roll RAPTOR on high traffic areas; it’s scratch and stain resistant and easy to clean, simply hose it off. Its flexible formulation can handle impacts without cracking, making it perfect for its most popular application as a truck bedliner. RAPTOR is unlike other bedliners or protective coatings. 2-component urethane technology far surpasses the durability of epoxy and 1-component coatings. And in case it does scratch (which is tough to do!), RAPTOR can easily be repaired. You can’t do that with most of the other bedliners and protective coatings!"

Here's a link to a pdf with specs: http://www.u-pol.com/storage/app/uploads/public/582/eb3/927/582eb3927677a745148035.pdf

 

[Skydog]

From the current Upol website:
"Developed to tolerate most climatic conditions, RAPTOR is UV resistant and won’t fade or “chalk” even after years in the sun. RAPTOR is also waterproof and protects surfaces from rust making it perfect for substrates that will be submerged in water, including salt water. RAPTOR’s versatility makes it perfect for almost any application. Spray or roll RAPTOR on high traffic areas; it’s scratch and stain resistant and easy to clean, simply hose it off. Its flexible formulation can handle impacts without cracking, making it perfect for its most popular application as a truck bedliner. RAPTOR is unlike other bedliners or protective coatings. 2-component urethane technology far surpasses the durability of epoxy and 1-component coatings. And in case it does scratch (which is tough to do!), RAPTOR can easily be repaired. You can’t do that with most of the other bedliners and protective coatings!"

Here's a link to a pdf with specs: http://www.u-pol.com/storage/app/uploads/public/582/eb3/927/582eb3927677a745148035.pdf

I continue to believe Monstaliner is basically the same. You could attribute this exact same description to that of Monstaliner. Both contain fine ceramic powder to make their product more durable & moisture resistant than common urethane paints.

"RAPTOR is UV resistant and won’t fade or “chalk” even after years in the sun." = why @Tank5 IS NEEDING to contact UPol & get this straightened out. ... And then, out of courtesy to the rest of us, to let us know, here, what UPol said in response, and what their company will do for him in kind.

~Skydog

 

[HJ47]

Waking up the thread...

Re: 464 Beige '84 HJ47 getting professionally painted in a couple weeks

Similar position as OP (some interior weld patching and pitting, even if smoothed out with duraglas/filler, would be tough to prep enough to look good (much less great) with just paint)

Tub is pulled and is getting professionally prepped (blasted, epoxy primered same day, etc.). They recommended spraying the tintable Raptor liner on the interior, due to the patching/repaired surface. We plan to take the Raptor up to the side rails.

I also plan to Raptor the bottom of the tub (again professional prep, so I should not have adhesion worries with DIY shortcuts). I do plan to just paint the engine bay (no Raptor).

With 464 beige paint, would the black Raptor or a beige tinted Raptor bottom color look better? I'm thinking black, but would the tan tin look more stock(ish)?

What's this Lizard Skin stuff? Worth considering spraying with the Raptor?

Thanks.

My tub below to show the patching, before any professional prep (just me with the grinder/da sander)

 

[White Stripe]

I think you'll develop rust underneath the bedliner on that one.

 

[HJ47]

I think you'll develop rust underneath the bedliner on that one.

Are you thinking that even if sprayed over epoxy primer?

 

[White Stripe]

Are you thinking that even if sprayed over epoxy primer?

79 and later sheet metal is very rust prone. I think that with paint, any rust that forms you can catch it right away. Underneath the bedliner it will be harder to see until its pretty far along. It also seems that once rust does form under bedliner that it spreads really fast. I do agree the bedliner would hide floor imperfections.

 

[Stumpalama]

I've had herculiner on my 1981 40 inside and underside all the way up the firewall and fenders for the past 17 years and it has held up extremely well. I had the body blasted and primed before doing my home grown sheet metal repair. I had some rust spots show up along the way, from my weld repair spots and a couple bad prep spots. The body is certainly in better shape after the 2nd 16 years than it's 1st 16 years.
It is not difficult to address rust spots, just scrape, address rust with a rust converter/remover, then re roll/spray.
I really haven't experienced the inevitable rust Armageddon that people warn about when using a bedliner.

 

[masterA]

Look into Line-X
Not the cheapest of products but it's meant to be one off the best out there

 

[MaltbyPenn]

After a good slapping around from @White Stripe , I decide not to go with the raptor liner and painted instead. If anyone is interested in a raptor liner kit (black) with gun in the Seattle area, let's share some FJ40 stories and come pick it up.

 

[oldschool4wheeling]

My choice was tintable Raptor Liner inside on the bed, floor boards and under fenders.

 

[Skydog]

My choice was tintable Raptor Liner inside on the bed, floor boards and under fenders.
View attachment 1797264 View attachment 1797269 View attachment 1797270

Looks FANTASTIC !!

 

[Pierps]

Are you thinking that even if sprayed over epoxy primer?

You'll be fine if you spray it over epoxy. The epoxy seals the steel, so as long as you get a good bond between the epoxy and steel, it's protected from moisture... Even if water gets between the liner and the epoxy. I say go for it.

 

[PuKE]

Waking up the thread...

Re: 464 Beige '84 HJ47 getting professionally painted in a couple weeks

Similar position as OP (some interior weld patching and pitting, even if smoothed out with duraglas/filler, would be tough to prep enough to look good (much less great) with just paint)

Tub is pulled and is getting professionally prepped (blasted, epoxy primered same day, etc.). They recommended spraying the tintable Raptor liner on the interior, due to the patching/repaired surface. We plan to take the Raptor up to the side rails.

I also plan to Raptor the bottom of the tub (again professional prep, so I should not have adhesion worries with DIY shortcuts). I do plan to just paint the engine bay (no Raptor).

With 464 beige paint, would the black Raptor or a beige tinted Raptor bottom color look better? I'm thinking black, but would the tan tin look more stock(ish)?

What's this Lizard Skin stuff? Worth considering spraying with the Raptor?

Thanks.

My tub below to show the patching, before any professional prep (just me with the grinder/da sander)
View attachment 1794226 View attachment 1794227

I've done alot of research on Lizard Skin. Their $h!t seems legit!
I'm using it on my roll cage - and debating if I want to line my firewall and bedliner.
I want to keep my truck as original as possible (body and appearance wise) - so i am on the fence about lining my truck.

 

[Stumpalama]

I've done alot of research on Lizard Skin. Their $h!t seems legit!
I'm using it on my roll cage - and debating if I want to line my firewall and bedliner.
I want to keep my truck as original as possible (body and appearance wise) - so i am on the fence about lining my truck.

Tint the interior liner...