When the ac is switched off, the clutch should disengage and not use any power.
The teeth should be fine; gives more flex, but you need the right length.
Have you measured it with the alternator fully retracted?
To Drive or Not to Drive: That is the Question... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Joe45
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
The teeth should be fine; gives more flex, but you need the right length.
Have you measured it with the alternator fully retracted?
- Thread starter
- #162
When I was in Roswell, on the way here during my initial trip, I noticed the belt was somewhat loose-jiggling a bit when under power. I Used the AC pump to tighten it. The wiggle went down but it still wasn't taught like I figured it should have been.
I will have to cut this one off and measure it, then compare it with the one I have as a spare.
Will also check the alternator as, now that you mention it, I realize was probably the original way to tighten the belt-since the AC is aftermarket.
- Thread starter
- #163
Working on replacing the fan belt on the HJ45.
The only adjustment I can see is moving the AC compressor, and this is maybe an inch of movement. The AC compressor is mounted to the alternator, and the alternator moves a little as well, but only along with the AC compressor. The bolt for the alternator pivot-at the bottom-is loose. Not much movement at all.
The brackets for the AC compressor are obviously rigged, but also pretty crappily done, with uneven cuts etc.
Debating whether to remove the AC.
Thought of bypassing it for now, with the original length belt, but then I won't be able to adjust it at all, as the alternator moves along with the AC compressor, but only about a 1/4 inch since its at the bottom of the movement arch. Seems like removing the AC compressor would allow true adjustment.
I could make new brackets, but my shop isn't ready and my tools are mostly in storage.
Additionally, I want to put in power steering, and I don't think both the AC and power steering are going to work together.
Seriously considering swapping in a 1HZ, the more I ponder this. It is more powerful, has a turbo, is very robust, and will have mounting points for the AC and power steering.
So maybe I should remove the AC, carefully pack it up, and then reinstall it down the line when the swap is made-unless the 12V under-mount AC winds up being the best deal overall.
The only adjustment I can see is moving the AC compressor, and this is maybe an inch of movement. The AC compressor is mounted to the alternator, and the alternator moves a little as well, but only along with the AC compressor. The bolt for the alternator pivot-at the bottom-is loose. Not much movement at all.
The brackets for the AC compressor are obviously rigged, but also pretty crappily done, with uneven cuts etc.
Debating whether to remove the AC.
Thought of bypassing it for now, with the original length belt, but then I won't be able to adjust it at all, as the alternator moves along with the AC compressor, but only about a 1/4 inch since its at the bottom of the movement arch. Seems like removing the AC compressor would allow true adjustment.
I could make new brackets, but my shop isn't ready and my tools are mostly in storage.
Additionally, I want to put in power steering, and I don't think both the AC and power steering are going to work together.
Seriously considering swapping in a 1HZ, the more I ponder this. It is more powerful, has a turbo, is very robust, and will have mounting points for the AC and power steering.
So maybe I should remove the AC, carefully pack it up, and then reinstall it down the line when the swap is made-unless the 12V under-mount AC winds up being the best deal overall.
- Thread starter
- #164
- Thread starter
- #165
Looking at the photos above, seems like if I remove the AC compressor, the alternator will only have one point of attachment, since the bracket was likely butchered to make the top ones. Not sure what to do.
Removing the AC compressor will still leave me unable to drive until I can find a bracket for it.
Does anyone know if the OEM bracket has an adjuster?And where to find one?
Removing the AC compressor will still leave me unable to drive until I can find a bracket for it.
Does anyone know if the OEM bracket has an adjuster?And where to find one?
Last edited:
Evan as crappy as that setup is, if you get a belt that fits you can at least use it until you do your permanent fix.
As far as guestimating the belt length. I've had better success cutting a belt and using that as a guide vs the rope.
I guess part of the question is how well aligned is the AC pulley with the others?
Looking at how hacked around it is, I might also be inclined to remove it, especially since the AC gas is already lost (not something you want to purposefully vent into the atmosphere given the climate impact potential).
The stacked washers is obviously a spacer to try and align it. Maybe you can use what you have and fettle it a bit to improve alignment overall in the short term. A steel rule on the pulley faces will help to check.
Maybe you can't make a perfect new bracket without your new shop built, but you can probably do better than what's there.
I can see that the adjustment bolt is barely engaged in the nut (3rd pic) for example - you might find a longer one if you choose to keep it.
This is what my adjuster looks like for reference.
And yes, there should be a thermostat under that cover, although mine was empty when I opened it (now it has the right thermostat and is painted shiny black).
Looking at how hacked around it is, I might also be inclined to remove it, especially since the AC gas is already lost (not something you want to purposefully vent into the atmosphere given the climate impact potential).
The stacked washers is obviously a spacer to try and align it. Maybe you can use what you have and fettle it a bit to improve alignment overall in the short term. A steel rule on the pulley faces will help to check.
Maybe you can't make a perfect new bracket without your new shop built, but you can probably do better than what's there.
I can see that the adjustment bolt is barely engaged in the nut (3rd pic) for example - you might find a longer one if you choose to keep it.
This is what my adjuster looks like for reference.
And yes, there should be a thermostat under that cover, although mine was empty when I opened it (now it has the right thermostat and is painted shiny black).
- Thread starter
- #169
Yeah I was thinking of cutting the old, worn our belt, measuring that, and getting one maybe a little shorter, since it was never really taught.
- Thread starter
- #170
Thanks for those pics: helps in thinking out the solution!
I am now thinking, at the very least, to make a bracket which keeps the alternator and AC pump separate. I also thought of changing the pulleys to double-belt configurations, so I can run a separate belt between the alternator and AC pump. This way, failure of the AC belt will not affect the rest. However, that would likely be a PIA replacing both he alternator and AC pump pulleys with double versions-if that's even possible.
Gonna have to think this through a little.
Only other vehicle right now is my FJC, and my wife is using it for work (I'm working from home right now) so will have to go to the storage tonight and get my welder and some tools, along with a few steel scraps, to make a bracket tomorrow.
Let's see what I can conjure up. If it gets too complicated, I'll just remove the AC altogether, pack it up, and save it for when I start the resto-mod.
- Thread starter
- #171
Just remembered!!!
As I was driving through the Great Smoky Mountains a few weeks ago, I heard this loud clanking sound under the HJ-like something metal tumbling. I turned around and found this (the bottom adjustment bracket) sitting on the road:
The top straight bar was in the HJ. I think for the battery hold-down. Not sure.
I thought I had just run over it, from another vehicle, but collected the piece just in case.
Does this look like it could be the bracket for the alternator? It seems to be deformed on the cut, but that can be fixed by heating it up and straightening it.
If it isn't from the HJ, I can likely use it anyway.
And here's the belt that I took off.
Pretty messed up.
Wondering what caused this: misalignment of the pulleys? Not being tight enough?
As I was driving through the Great Smoky Mountains a few weeks ago, I heard this loud clanking sound under the HJ-like something metal tumbling. I turned around and found this (the bottom adjustment bracket) sitting on the road:
The top straight bar was in the HJ. I think for the battery hold-down. Not sure.
I thought I had just run over it, from another vehicle, but collected the piece just in case.
Does this look like it could be the bracket for the alternator? It seems to be deformed on the cut, but that can be fixed by heating it up and straightening it.
If it isn't from the HJ, I can likely use it anyway.
And here's the belt that I took off.
Pretty messed up.
Wondering what caused this: misalignment of the pulleys? Not being tight enough?
AussieHJCruza
Supporting Vendor
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2013
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 2,960
- Location
- New South Wales, Australia
- Website
- www.completecruisers.com.au
A 1HZ doesn't have a turbo as standard. If you want a turbo DI engine of that generation you want a 1HD-T or -FT
- Thread starter
- #173
Ah! Thanks for the clarification!
- Thread starter
- #174
I would think the the 1HZ has a lot more power than the 1h though, so maybe turbo is not necessary for me.
Last edited:
AussieHJCruza
Supporting Vendor
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2013
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 2,960
- Location
- New South Wales, Australia
- Website
- www.completecruisers.com.au
A 1HZ does make a lot more power than the H, but IMHO the turbo engines are no less reliable, similar work to swap and so much more drivable, especially at altitude.
A 1HZ is still slow, a 1HD-T in stock form is quite bearable, and with a few minor tweaks such as a 3" exhaust, reasonably snappy for a heavy truck like a cruiser.
- Thread starter
- #176
Thanks again!
Now, to search for a 1HD-T; at least to make plans. Hopefully not too pricey and not too difficult to find!
AussieHJCruza
Supporting Vendor
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2013
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 2,960
- Location
- New South Wales, Australia
- Website
- www.completecruisers.com.au
Pretty sure @chapel gate had a 1HD-T or -FT for sale the other day.
For swaps into a 40, @crushers used to make engine mounts, I think he still does, and you'll need a HZJ75 bellhousing etc to mate the 1HD# to a H55 gearbox - the H151 that would have come behind the 1HD-# (unless it was an auto which is a different can of worms) will require major floor pan and transmission tunnel surgery to fit into a 40, the H55 isn't as strong as a H15# but should hold up fine behind a lighly modded engine with a sensible driver. (My H55 has spent over 10 years behind a blown and reasonably non-stock 3F-E in a heavy 60 with little complaints, but ensuring not to load it up in 5th gear)
- Thread starter
- #178
I'll check. Also see a good amount on alibaba, if that's a reliable source, don't know.
AussieHJCruza
Supporting Vendor
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2013
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 2,960
- Location
- New South Wales, Australia
- Website
- www.completecruisers.com.au
Sorry, added a bit more to the last post - hit the send button too early.
I'd avoid Alibaba personally but others may have had good experiences.
- Thread starter
- #180
Great info! Thanks!
