To Drive or Not to Drive: That is the Question... (1 Viewer)

[120mm]

I'm also wanting to get into historical trekking. Have a flintlock kit (since 2006) that I need to finish, and a premade flintlock. My nephew and I are talking about doing that together soon.

Love your rig, and the trip you took.

I would highly recommend not wasting time and energy on a mass produced flintlock, or flintlock kit. They have lots of retained value, so I'd sell both the premade and the kit and get something better.

Very few of the mass produced stuff can be made to operate correctly, and the frustration of having a cheap, poor working flintlock could sour you from the hobby. And that's not even considering how historically incorrect the mass produced flintlocks are.

I do some historical stuff and make my own flintlocks, and I HIGHLY recommend spending the coin on either Kibler's or Jim Chambers kits. For the money, vs effort, I give Kibler's the slight nod.

Rifle Kits

Jim Kibler's precise and historically correct CNC produced rifle kits If you are in a hurry, shortest wait times are 1-2 weeks for the Southern Mountain Rifle kit in Extra Fancy Maple, the Woodsrunner Kit in Standard Maple or Fancy Maple, and The Colonial Kit in Standard Maple

kiblerslongrifles.com

Jim Chambers Flintlocks

The bottom rifle is a Chambers kit with plain wood. Requires more work with chisels and shaper, but they work really well.

That one is my competition/living history gun, with a little better wood. Cost more to purchase up front but it looks amazing, was a relatively simple build and lock time is nearly identical to the high end cap lock guns.

 

[Joe45]

Love your rig, and the trip you took.

I would highly recommend not wasting time and energy on a mass produced flintlock, or flintlock kit. They have lots of retained value, so I'd sell both the premade and the kit and get something better.

Very few of the mass produced stuff can be made to operate correctly, and the frustration of having a cheap, poor working flintlock could sour you from the hobby. And that's not even considering how historically incorrect the mass produced flintlocks are.

I do some historical stuff and make my own flintlocks, and I HIGHLY recommend spending the coin on either Kibler's or Jim Chambers kits. For the money, vs effort, I give Kibler's the slight nod.

Rifle Kits

Jim Kibler's precise and historically correct CNC produced rifle kits If you are in a hurry, shortest wait times are 1-2 weeks for the Southern Mountain Rifle kit in Extra Fancy Maple, the Woodsrunner Kit in Standard Maple or Fancy Maple, and The Colonial Kit in Standard Maple

kiblerslongrifles.com

Jim Chambers Flintlocks

View attachment 3384815
The bottom rifle is a Chambers kit with plain wood. Requires more work with chisels and shaper, but they work really well.
View attachment 3384820
View attachment 3384821
View attachment 3384822
That one is my competition/living history gun, with a little better wood. Cost more to purchase up front but it looks amazing, was a relatively simple build and lock time is nearly identical to the high end cap lock guns.

Thanks!

I agree about the flintlocks. Those are beautiful rifles!

My kit is actually a Jim Chambers Mark Silver in .58 caliber. I used to correspond with Mark Baker, but have since lost contact. He advised me on picking a rifle kit and so I went to Jim Chamber's house in NC to pick it up. Got to see some originals as well.
I've heard good things about the Kibler kits as well.
If I get another flintlock, it will probably be a Tulle Fusil de Chasse. I find the lines on those smoothbores to be just absolutely gorgeous!
Once my shop is done-hopefully by this winter-I'll be able to finish it. After that, will hopefully do some trekking.

 

[120mm]

Thanks!

I agree about the flintlocks. Those are beautiful rifles!

My kit is actually a Jim Chambers Mark Silver in .58 caliber. I used to correspond with Mark Baker, but have since lost contact. He advised me on picking a rifle kit and so I went to Jim Chamber's house in NC to pick it up. Got to see some originals as well.
I've heard good things about the Kibler kits as well.
If I get another flintlock, it will probably be a Tulle Fusil de Chasse. I find the lines on those smoothbores to be just absolutely gorgeous!
Once my shop is done-hopefully by this winter-I'll be able to finish it. After that, will hopefully do some trekking.

Love, love LOVE the Mark Silver in .58.

Great early rifle, and really opens up the eras you can portray.

Of course the Tulle Fusil de Chasse would make the eras even more wide open. Despite the pro rifle hype, smoothies ruled the colonies.

 

[Joe45]

Love, love LOVE the Mark Silver in .58.

Great early rifle, and really opens up the eras you can portray.

Of course the Tulle Fusil de Chasse would make the eras even more wide open. Despite the pro rifle hype, smoothies ruled the colonies.

Thanks!
Can't wait to shoot it: someday!!!
And yeah, rifles are awesome, but now with more knowledge, if I had one only, I think a smoothie is the best choice.

 

[120mm]

Thanks!
Can't wait to shoot it: someday!!!
And yeah, rifles are awesome, but now with more knowledge, if I had one only, I think a smoothie is the best choice.

I'm sorry, I think you said something about "one only" and that came through on this end as "bzzzz, bzzzz, bzzzz......"

 

[Joe45]

I'm sorry, I think you said something about "one only" and that came through on this end as "bzzzz, bzzzz, bzzzz......"

LOL!

 

[Joe45]

Does anyone know what this little box is? Fuse?
The other more orange wire is for a cigarette lighter power plug I put in for now: allows me to charge my phone and a little blue tooth speaker.

But the other wire is obviously not OEM either, but leads from the battery to that little box thing that looks OEM. Or could it be part of the AC system?

 

[Joe45]

Pretty sure this is related to the AC unit.

And, I am pretty sure I am taking the AC out. Trying to find a way to make a working bracket that doesn't interfere with either the alternator or the oil filter, or something else, but no luck. In addition, the thing was rigged onto the truck and I don't know what is what.
AC worked fine until I lost the coolant, so I would also have to deal with that.
Maybe I can take it off and sell it, and install one of those undermount 12 Volt units. Less mess under tha hood and more power for the engine.

Still on the fence though. Tough to decide. It's pretty damn hot right now even up here in the mountains, but then it'll start getting cooler in about a month, and then I'll have to deal with freezing temps and below.

 

[Joe45]

Well, I took out the AC unit; the whole thing. Gotta say; I really like the uncluttered look without that huge contraption down there! I don't like the lack of cool air though!
But the AC wasn't working anymore and it was really crappily installed anyway.

AND..............


Look what I found when I cut one of the hoses:

WTH!!!!
Looks like river pebbles and hair!

I don't know how it could get past the water pump without shredding it, but maybe it was introduced during the AC install because it was right at the AC connection.

 

[Joe45]

Also...
I fixed the tailgate!

Sort of...

At least until I start the restomod:

I fixed it by laying a 2x4 on the ground, and laying the tailgate (bent section) up (arch of the bend pointing up). I then carefully and slowly drove over it along the bend.
After that, I flipped it over and drove on the other side.
Came out pretty good, considering!

I'll do the finishing touches once I do the restomod. Same goes for the taillight area.


However, I have to find new taillights and housings now!

 

[Joe45]

Sitting on a camping chair, looking at my HJ, I am pondering which way to go with the camper build..,

A. Use the existing bed with a box built on top and a pop up top for sleeping. This would be removable, but meant to stay on.
Make a trailer in the style of the bed for my business and long expeditions-maybe-like Alaska.

B. Build a box that replaces the bed. Same pop up design.
The existing bed would then be used to make a trailer. Concern is the placement of the axle forward of 50% of tub’s length. Maybe the tongue, a small Benny, storage box, and auxiliary fuel tank would help in weight balance.

I want the camper area to be like a troopy, with space to sit out if bad weather, and to edit videos, etc.

Other consideration is whether to keep the rear window opening the same and replace window with a hatch for emergency access to cab/cockpit, OR cut the window opening lower for same reason.

 

[B y r o n]

If you don't want to tent it on the ground, I say build a rack system that you can put your tent on the top. The idea being is keeping the bed open to pack all the necessities that you want with you while camping.

The problem I see with bed tents is they tend to restrict any storage space.

 

[flx]

Definitively option A!
Not much point to drive a 40 and lose the original style.

I want the camper area to be like a troopy, with space to sit out if bad weather, and to edit videos, etc.

With a camper built on the bed you will have much more usable width than in a real troopy
(particularly if comparing with a 70 series troopy)

 

[Joe45]

If you don't want to tent it on the ground, I say build a rack system that you can put your tent on the top. The idea being is keeping the bed open to pack all the necessities that you want with you while camping.

The problem I see with bed tents is they tend to restrict any storage space.

I want the back to be livable; like a van or troopy, No tent: it will be like an alucab type roof conversion. In fact, I have thought of building the box area to fit an alucab or Ali-innovations conversion.

 

[Joe45]

Definitively option A!
Not much point to drive a 40 and lose the original style.

With a camper built on the bed you will have much more usable width than in a real troopy
(particularly if comparing with a 70 series troopy)

Funny. I had the impression this was the case: the area in this one over the 70. Was going to do some measurements. Thanks for pointing that out.

 

[45Dougal]

If the bed is solid then I'd build on top of that since it keeps that part original and it's less work.
The bed is quite high off the ground though, so you'll need to lift the roof above the existing cab roof in order to sit comfortably inside - mine is just about ok but more would be nice. Try putting that camp chair in the bed and see where your head is.

I like the 40 rear design, but that doesn't fit with the 45 bed shape because it's square in the rear corners.
Because of this, people initially mistake my truck for a Defender. If you could somehow blend the distinctive radiused rear quarters onto the bed then that would be preferable to my eye.

You could fit a wider door in between the corner panels - maybe split 60/40 like the 70 series?

 

[120mm]

I like the looks of this build.

 

[Joe45]

If the bed is solid then I'd build on top of that since it keeps that part original and it's less work.
The bed is quite high off the ground though, so you'll need to lift the roof above the existing cab roof in order to sit comfortably inside - mine is just about ok but more would be nice. Try putting that camp chair in the bed and see where your head is.

I like the 40 rear design, but that doesn't fit with the 45 bed shape because it's square in the rear corners.
Because of this, people initially mistake my truck for a Defender. If you could somehow blend the distinctive radiused rear quarters onto the bed then that would be preferable to my eye.

You could fit a wider door in between the corner panels - maybe split 60/40 like the 70 series?

View attachment 3408096

I can see the “Defender-ish” resemblance. Looks beautiful!!!
Still thinking out the rear doors. I could even use door/s for something else as long as they’re flat-sort of. Have thought of even making them from thin wall square/rectangular tubing and sheet metal.

I don’t mind the sharp corners. Kind of prefer it. But yeah, I see your point too.

Beautiful truck and nice color!!!

 

[45Dougal]

I can see the “Defender-ish” resemblance. Looks beautiful!!!
Still thinking out the rear doors. I could even use door/s for something else as long as they’re flat-sort of. Have thought of even making them from thin wall square/rectangular tubing and sheet metal.

I don’t mind the sharp corners. Kind of prefer it. But yeah, I see your point too.

Beautiful truck and nice color!!!

Thanks.
That's how my door was made - box and sheet.
Worth noting that the door could be taller on mine i'd go as tall as possible.
Also, if you look at how narrow my door is when considering the increased width of the bed, you'll see why toyota chose to put curved windows in the back - it meant that the troopy rear door can be wider than mine, despite my wider bed.

 

[Joe45]

Thanks.
That's how my door was made - box and sheet.
Worth noting that the door could be taller on mine i'd go as tall as possible.
Also, if you look at how narrow my door is when considering the increased width of the bed, you'll see why toyota chose to put curved windows in the back - it meant that the troopy rear door can be wider than mine, despite my wider bed.

That’s interesting.

I looked up the ambulance doors and they’re like $750 EACH or more. I think making them is gonna be the way to go.
And yeah, I’ll have to put my chair on the bead and do some measurements.