- Thread starter
- #141
The mechanic I took it to did an oil change before I left Florida, so it comes off. Maybe they torqued it a little too much. Regardless, I'm going to see about doing a relocation/spin on filter swap.
To Drive or Not to Drive: That is the Question... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Joe45
- Start date
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Lowe's across from Home Depot, you talking about up in Show Low?
Hope they didn't cross thread it for you; probably used an air driver.
- Thread starter
- #144
Yes indeed!
Funny how that identified the area!!!
- Thread starter
- #145
Yeah, I know. Hopefully not!!!
fjwagon
SILVER Star
I see the antifreeze leak. Looks like its coming from the waterpump area. I suggest removing all the hoses at both ends and clean them. Basically anything going to the waterpump. Hopefully that is all it may need. After cleaning them I will grease up the neck where hoses will ride on. Just hope it's not a leaky water pump. You could loosen or remove hardware to make the front bid grill to get a better view and access. It's easy to.
There is not much you can do on the bell housing. I would give it a second look and verify there are no cracks in the same area. You might be able to locate a donor from the previous post. I have same engine and finding parts a hard to locate is the norm. That being said, don't be afraid to get spares like the starter and alternator. I rebuilt the starter my self and posted part numbers in diesel section. Don't be afraid to crack the starter open and do a visual check. Verify the brushes good. Should have a total of 4.
fjwagon
SILVER Star
I started laughing, he must be related to one of the guys I used work with. I would definitely find a donor. I was thinking Wix made a work around so you would not have to use a filter cartridge. I'm ok replacing with replacing the filter cartridge. I buy them in 3's or in pairs. And I would not be surprised if was cross threaded. Always start bolting it by hand so not cross thread it. And it is always messy. Great job on the work your doing so far.
- Thread starter
- #149
Thank you!!!
Between the glued-on window cranks, the welded nut on the filter housing, and the paper tape on the mismatched wire pieces to the brake lights, I feel like breaking an axe handle over whoever did that’s skull.
However.., it’s all par for the course I figure.
I think the best bet is a good tear down and rebuild. Just have to wait until I can get a garage up-after other things/expenses are past.
I think this truck can be made into a great off roader that can still go on road very comfortably: 5 speed, power steering, suspension, maybe eventually a turbo 1HZ?
- Thread starter
- #150
Here’s something I’ve been meaning to mention;
Truck blows white smoke. Does it on startup and if I am accelerating, also when shifting and then accelerating.
Starts up easy.
I’ve read white smoke is a coolant leak/head gasket issue-but isn’t that really steam? This is smoke.
I’ll see about filming and posting the smoke once I get back home.
That H engine seems like a good engine, but if it needs a rebuild I would seriously consider a 2H (or turbo equivalent) a 1HZ, or something of that sort.
My main concern is for the engine to be reliable-and that means simple. After that I’d like some power to get up hills a bit faster than 2nd gear!
I heard the 2H will bolt right on and there’s a turbo version. Other engines would require more involved adaptions-or so I’m told.
Truck blows white smoke. Does it on startup and if I am accelerating, also when shifting and then accelerating.
Starts up easy.
I’ve read white smoke is a coolant leak/head gasket issue-but isn’t that really steam? This is smoke.
I’ll see about filming and posting the smoke once I get back home.
That H engine seems like a good engine, but if it needs a rebuild I would seriously consider a 2H (or turbo equivalent) a 1HZ, or something of that sort.
My main concern is for the engine to be reliable-and that means simple. After that I’d like some power to get up hills a bit faster than 2nd gear!
I heard the 2H will bolt right on and there’s a turbo version. Other engines would require more involved adaptions-or so I’m told.
There are various threads on smoke in the diesel section.
My H blows a bit of smoke at startup but clears right up - I don't get any on gearchanges that is noticeable.
I think the startup might be related to one or more failed glow plugs but I haven't had time to check
- Thread starter
- #152
OK
So I re-aligned the doors and they work better.
Ordered new window cranks and those are good.
However:
1. To shut the doors fully, I have to close them kind of hard. THey will shut, but the weatherstrip on top has a little gap. Seems like the weatherstrip is either too thick or maybe too dense? Anyone deal with this?
The passenger door has the weatherstrip removed at the moment and it shuts nicely with just a slight push-just has a gap that the weatherstrip would seal, of course.
2. Key won't lock or unlock the doors. Works on the ignition, but not the door locks. Sort of worked before, but not anymore. Maybe I need to have the lock rekeyed or something.
So I re-aligned the doors and they work better.
Ordered new window cranks and those are good.
However:
1. To shut the doors fully, I have to close them kind of hard. THey will shut, but the weatherstrip on top has a little gap. Seems like the weatherstrip is either too thick or maybe too dense? Anyone deal with this?
The passenger door has the weatherstrip removed at the moment and it shuts nicely with just a slight push-just has a gap that the weatherstrip would seal, of course.
2. Key won't lock or unlock the doors. Works on the ignition, but not the door locks. Sort of worked before, but not anymore. Maybe I need to have the lock rekeyed or something.
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@ToyotaMatt can help you with keys
Maybe with a little bit of these below , and some of that in that little ole can too , per some time tested and true to factory focus point fit form and function Double Sided precision code cut saw tooth sabors , the not working now and sorta worked before , can be always works now like never before
.
- Thread starter
- #155
Maybe with a little bit of these below , and some of that in that little ole can too , per some time tested and true to factory focus point fit form and function Double Sided precision code cut saw tooth sabors , the not working now and sorta worked before , can be always works now like never before
.
My keys work on the ignition, but not on the doors. They sort of worked before, and now they don't even move the lock.
My keys also have the cuts on both sides, but turning them around doesn't make a difference.
So how does this work?
Do I send you a picture of the keys? Send one of the keys? Do I need to get new door locks/tumblers-whatever they're called?
Thanks,
Joe
hello , matt here
i reviewed your entire build thread and did not a single photo of your interior from the exterior lens looking in ?
- unless your sitting on a plastic milk crate ?
- lets see this sweet little unicorns inner mosys non-usa-far-away snappy features and stuff !
- when i actually saw u have a post 1/79 HJ45L-P ..... i was looking at the sands of time rewind for sure , very nice what you have there ....
- so ............
- how does this work ?
- well it would work in the usual way if you had a FJ40 for example , but since you have what you have there .....
- this can actually work two uniquely different ways
- we can oem SST machine factory key code cut 1 or more OEM toyota key blanks and combined with a very very crucial step by step prep. of all your current lock cylinder prior to the key or key arriving in the mail , using WD-40 brand WD-40 to prepare for the arrival of my TEq to land in your hands ....
- this next steps will tell us if 1 or more of your locks are OK internally or smoked for any possible reason internally ...
- i need the following please :
- photos of all locks where u insert the key into
- photos of ALL keys your using here in any way that are giving you trouble here as you outline above
- photos of the plastic steering column cover TOP SIDE only please ...
- photos of the current DIESEL fuel cap you have going on top and bottom
- photos of the filler neck hole , cap removed .....
- all this is very relevant here , so i can best advise you the path that will best meet this need and also continue to do so for the long term future ...
- after in evaluate all tech photos , i will decide if pulling the passenger side lock cylinder is required or not ?
thanks
matt
.
THIS IS THE WAY .....
- Thread starter
- #157
Interesting: the invisible type!hello , matt here
i reviewed your entire build thread and did not a single photo of your interior from the exterior lens looking in ?
- unless your sitting on a plastic milk crate ?
- lets see this sweet little unicorns inner mosys non-usa-far-away snappy features and stuff !
- when i actually saw u have a post 1/79 HJ45L-P ..... i was looking at the sands of time rewind for sure , very nice what you have there ....
- so ............
- how does this work ?
- well it would work in the usual way if you had a FJ40 for example , but since you have what you have there .....
- this can actually work two uniquely different ways
- we can oem SST machine factory key code cut 1 or more OEM toyota key blanks and combined with a very very crucial step by step prep. of all your current lock cylinder prior to the key or key arriving in the mail , using WD-40 brand WD-40 to prepare for the arrival of my TEq to land in your hands ....
- this next steps will tell us if 1 or more of your locks are OK internally or smoked for any possible reason internally ...
- i need the following please :
- photos of all locks where u insert the key into
- photos of ALL keys your using here in any way that are giving you trouble here as you outline above
- photos of the plastic steering column cover TOP SIDE only please ...
- photos of the current DIESEL fuel cap you have going on top and bottom
- photos of the filler neck hole , cap removed .....
- all this is very relevant here , so i can best advise you the path that will best meet this need and also continue to do so for the long term future ...
- after in evaluate all tech photos , i will decide if pulling the passenger side lock cylinder is required or not ?
thanks
matt
.
THIS IS THE WAY .....
Thanks! I seem to have a strange year for that vehicle-seems like the transitional year into HJ47?
I will do as you asked and send you the images as soon as I can.
Thank you!
What do you think this would cost? Feel free to PM me if you like.
Thanks!
\
.
- thanks for the reply here mr. Joe , you indeed have a very unique UNICORN HJ45L-RP
- what is referred to as : " Interesting: the invisible type! " ?
- i will PM you here on MUD , this way we do not clog up your build thread , so it can stay on your topics , you choose to discuss , including the Toyota Genuine Parts Lock Cylinders & OEM Keys mechanical engagement rotational function troubles we are now focused on here too ....
- YES , you are 100% correct on your conclusion , 1/79 was the first production month if the largest and most significant cosmetic and mechanical , updates i personally feel strongly that all of them as a whole were long long overdue , because a larger than large amount of them in stand alone variations were all ready in place as standard features in various regional destinations markets around the globe , till only recently i realize TOYOTA was actually using certain places to introduce that certain update as a sorta laboratory case study of sorts , Cosmetically , Mechanically & SAFETY related too in fact ...
- a good example would be the entire 2F equipped FJ4# series anything modle platforms had randomly been chosen all in one Production date , the 1st calendar day of July 1978 , Factory Power Steering installed @ PLANT A11 on the assembly line .
- i do not know the exact production date , that the first 2F engines had the updated Casting features of what is called a BOSS , but without them being drilled out and female threads created for use down the historical timeline pre-planned updates and upgrades badly needed at that point all ready , where later all 2F engines came with the Three M10 females threaded bosses machined and tapped 100% from PLANT A11 whether FACTORY P/S was installed then and there or not , because by 1980 Model year saw the first PIO ( Port Installed Option ) factory power steering actually kit form installed and updated at the TOYOTA Port of call in Long Beach California , as soon as that said usa-spec, FJ40 was already was all ready paid for by a local TOYOTA dealership new cars sales customer of a new kind a breed .....
- there what is called in the dealership culture , here in the usa anyway a " 2-Sales " customer ... the in plain english means they are purchasing there 2nd new FJ40 or the last modle year of FJ55 , and simply Trading in there tired old work horse back to the same Dealership that sold them that all new F1.5 J30 factory Floor Shifter equipped only 1969 FJ40L-A , for a younger more powerful high-end more modern performance grade Japanese farm tractor , one with all the lastest state of the art safety standards , front power disc brakes , anti-roll bar , 3 point front seat belts , the the FST all but phased out to only ever full hard top so you can't be removed from the vehicle by force , by another vehicle as a result of them driving into your Hard Top now on full time FJ40 as a armor plated safety dome of sorts protected you much like the Shell a Snapping Turtle Sports , protects it too . a now standard GM Cadillac looking black padded safety dash pad was not for cosmetics , it prevented your skull from hitting the prior only metal switch panel and vertical metal main dash itself & head rests so your neck does not snap like twig , when the city Garbage Truck or School bus all still equipped with front DRUM brakes rear ends you as you are lighting your CAMEL hard pack stogi using the Knob Element thingy that u push in and count to 9 and it magically pops out on it's own glowing red hot , like a factory installed thanksgiving TURKEY timer does ....
- so , .........
. a bit of the big picture updates 12/78 to 1/79 transformational changes and the why on the the why they were much needed at that time too ...- what particular 1/79 HJ45L-RP fancy new modern technology needed & wanted updated features happened to your sparky show pony you have now ?
- i can only think of one , that directly relates to the topic at hand here as well too .....
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #159
Hello again.\
.
- thanks for the reply here mr. Joe , you indeed have a very unique UNICORN HJ45L-RP
- what is referred to as : " Interesting: the invisible type! " ?
- i will PM you here on MUD , this way we do not clog up your build thread , so it can stay on your topics , you choose to discuss , including the Toyota Genuine Parts Lock Cylinders & OEM Keys mechanical engagement rotational function troubles we are now focused on here too ....
- YES , you are 100% correct on your conclusion , 1/79 was the first production month if the largest and most significant cosmetic and mechanical , updates i personally feel strongly that all of them as a whole were long long overdue , because a larger than large amount of them in stand alone variations were all ready in place as standard features in various regional destinations markets around the globe , till only recently i realize TOYOTA was actually using certain places to introduce that certain update as a sorta laboratory case study of sorts , Cosmetically , Mechanically & SAFETY related too in fact ...
- a good example would be the entire 2F equipped FJ4# series anything modle platforms had randomly been chosen all in one Production date , the 1st calendar day of July 1978 , Factory Power Steering installed @ PLANT A11 on the assembly line .
- i do not know the exact production date , that the first 2F engines had the updated Casting features of what is called a BOSS , but without them being drilled out and female threads created for use down the historical timeline pre-planned updates and upgrades badly needed at that point all ready , where later all 2F engines came with the Three M10 females threaded bosses machined and tapped 100% from PLANT A11 whether FACTORY P/S was installed then and there or not , because by 1980 Model year saw the first PIO ( Port Installed Option ) factory power steering actually kit form installed and updated at the TOYOTA Port of call in Long Beach California , as soon as that said usa-spec, FJ40 was already was all ready paid for by a local TOYOTA dealership new cars sales customer of a new kind a breed .....
- there what is called in the dealership culture , here in the usa anyway a " 2-Sales " customer ... the in plain english means they are purchasing there 2nd new FJ40 or the last modle year of FJ55 , and simply Trading in there tired old work horse back to the same Dealership that sold them that all new F1.5 J30 factory Floor Shifter equipped only 1969 FJ40L-A , for a younger more powerful high-end more modern performance grade Japanese farm tractor , one with all the lastest state of the art safety standards , front power disc brakes , anti-roll bar , 3 point front seat belts , the the FST all but phased out to only ever full hard top so you can't be removed from the vehicle by force , by another vehicle as a result of them driving into your Hard Top now on full time FJ40 as a armor plated safety dome of sorts protected you much like the Shell a Snapping Turtle Sports , protects it too . a now standard GM Cadillac looking black padded safety dash pad was not for cosmetics , it prevented your skull from hitting the prior only metal switch panel and vertical metal main dash itself & head rests so your neck does not snap like twig , when the city Garbage Truck or School bus all still equipped with front DRUM brakes rear ends you as you are lighting your CAMEL hard pack stogi using the Knob Element thingy that u push in and count to 9 and it magically pops out on it's own glowing red hot , like a factory installed thanksgiving TURKEY timer does ....
- so , .........
- what particular 1/79 HJ45L-RP fancy new modern technology needed & wanted updated features happened to your sparky show pony you have now ?
- i can only think of one , that directly relates to the topic at hand here as well too .....
I had to go out of town so just got the photos of what you asked. Do I put them up here or do you have an email to send it to? PM me if there's an email.
Thank you!
Joe
- Thread starter
- #160
Noticed that the engine belt was really wiggly when running. Stopped the engine and checked it.
The belt is being chewed up really significantly and is at the point of failure. I am thinking this could be due it being too loose. Also, it has "teeth" on the inside. Shouldn't the belt be a solid one? Any ideas?
Also, this belt doesn't seem to tighten too well. Previous owner, my friend, said it threw the belt before while he was driving it, so he measured it with a string and went to a car parts place. I am thinking it may be too long an thus not able to be tightened correctly.
I have this spare, but it's not OEM-just got it after measuring around the pullies with a string. I was in a hurry and just realized I gave the person the measurement, but that was including the old belt being on, so my spare may be an inch too long. If that's the case, it will be even longer than the messed up one is has now.
I am seriously considering removing the Vintage Air unit. It worked fine when it worked-leaked out the "Freon" though, about a day into the trip. I know that's fixable, but not sure if I should keep it on.
On the plus side: it provides nice cold air.
On the negative: it makes me use a non-OEM size belt, and robs power from the engine (?).
Since I am planning a tear down and rebuild (not the engine), maybe it's just as well to remove it, pack it up, and reinstall it later?
Also, I am seriously considering one of those 12 volt undermounted AC units. This would serve to cool the cab, and also the box on the back. The truck being so small, I could probably also cool a tent addition! Being 12 Volt, I wouldn't need to use engine power tto run the AC pump.
I could also just get a correct sized bvelt for use with the AC and use it for now, until I start the rebuild.
The belt is being chewed up really significantly and is at the point of failure. I am thinking this could be due it being too loose. Also, it has "teeth" on the inside. Shouldn't the belt be a solid one? Any ideas?
Also, this belt doesn't seem to tighten too well. Previous owner, my friend, said it threw the belt before while he was driving it, so he measured it with a string and went to a car parts place. I am thinking it may be too long an thus not able to be tightened correctly.
I have this spare, but it's not OEM-just got it after measuring around the pullies with a string. I was in a hurry and just realized I gave the person the measurement, but that was including the old belt being on, so my spare may be an inch too long. If that's the case, it will be even longer than the messed up one is has now.
I am seriously considering removing the Vintage Air unit. It worked fine when it worked-leaked out the "Freon" though, about a day into the trip. I know that's fixable, but not sure if I should keep it on.
On the plus side: it provides nice cold air.
On the negative: it makes me use a non-OEM size belt, and robs power from the engine (?).
Since I am planning a tear down and rebuild (not the engine), maybe it's just as well to remove it, pack it up, and reinstall it later?
Also, I am seriously considering one of those 12 volt undermounted AC units. This would serve to cool the cab, and also the box on the back. The truck being so small, I could probably also cool a tent addition! Being 12 Volt, I wouldn't need to use engine power tto run the AC pump.
I could also just get a correct sized bvelt for use with the AC and use it for now, until I start the rebuild.
