To Drive or Not to Drive: That is the Question... (1 Viewer)

[Joe45]

Problem 2: Passenger door latch not working properly.

• Can't open from the outside: handle seems to move freely.
• Opens from the inside, but by pulling on the locking lever, not the opening handle. The opening handle has zero effect.
• I have to take it apart a bit to see what came loose... which leads me to...

Problem 3: Window Crank Handles glued on!!!
Someone, instead of purchasing the window crank clips, decided to apply some insane glue. I cannot remove the cranks-so I can't remove the door card-so I can't access the inside/mechanism of the door properly.
I tried acetone on the glue, applied with a syringe. It seemed to remove the glue, but the handle won't budge (spins fine, but will not come out).

I am considering these options:

1. Cut the door cards (plastic) the shortest length (horizontally) towards the front of the door. This will allow me to access the door interior and possibly remove the handle (applied flame from small torch?). I am planning on covering the door cards with canvas and or leather, so the cut will be hidden behind that.
2. Cut the cranks: maybe cut off the handle, slip off the door card, and then work on removing the other, glued part.

I figure I can order reproduction door cranks anyway.

Suggestions welcome!

Also: by getting into the door interior, I can clean it up, apply rust converter and primer, fix the loose window lifting mechanism's tray, and then also apply lubricants.

 

[fjwagon]

The old glue trick. I had a guy at work that would use this trick. It was not good. I would split the the handle at shaft. And remove it that way. And move on to the next step. The cranks may worn but would check them first. The diesel engine rattle so much that stuff can get loose.

By looking at the door pics seems the door moved. Its odd , look for loose hardware or bolt markings at hinge inside the cab. Also confirm the othe end at the door.

 

[45Dougal]

Looks like your doors have dropped way down.
I had this on mine and it caused the door lock to jam, so adjusting them may fix your lock problem.
There are bolts inside, but I don't think you'll need to adjust those.
You need to loosen the three bolts on the outside of the door on the bottom hinge.
Then lift up the door by hand (I'd guess all the way up, looking at your pictures)
Hold it up and tighten the bolts.
Repeat with the top hinge if needed.
Keep an eye on the latch alignment as well as the door alignment in the frame - the top gap should be roughly parallel, and check the front gap isn't too tight to scrape paint off!
Note that the latch will move up and down with the door by doing this, but also front to back.
I had to do this a couple of times before it settled right

 

[jembourbe]

Aligning the door with the interior hinge bolts: Make sure to do this with the door "hanging" on its hinges. If you don't -- like if you clamp or hold the door in perfect alignment without weight on the hinge joint and then tighten the interior hinge bolts -- then the door will sag when you let it hang, and you will be sad.


The more worn your hinge/pin shims are, the bigger this issue is.

 

[Living in the Past]

While not huge Arizona is not a small state. Generally location might be someone close by who take a look at your doors issues. Obviously not in the Phoenix metro area. Sounds like your in the eastern part of the side. Little far for me but post in the Copper State Cruisers section some local may be able to help. Overall the 40 series 1/75+ doors all work the same no matter what model or market there are from.

 

[Joe45]

I contacted the Copper State Cruisers on Faceplant and am waiting to see what they say. WIll probably mess a bit with the outer hinges as well in the meantime.

Thanks all!!!

 

[Joe45]

Looking at my truck's bed/tub, I noticed it is misaligned: sticks out at port, flush on the starboard side.

You can see that the port side is a bit "un-straight".

Would like to straighten that out-any suggestions are welcome.

 

[Joe45]

So, I got under the truck and checked out the situation.

Here's what I found...

Well, the mounts are missing at those points, so no wonder the bed shifted. Good deal of rust as well.

I will be taking the bed off, removing the rust, and welding steel plate to those areas that are rusted away. This will give me the opportunity to clean up the frame as well.

Have to check for the mounts too.

Main issue is that most of my stuff is in storage until I get my workshop and we put up a garage. Workshop will get put up around August. Garage: ?. Hopefully not too long after that, but may be November/December.
Right now the weather is great, but monsoon will soon arrive. After that the fall is good too, but then comes winter, and that will stop all work until I get the garage up. Looking at those steel garage kits.

 

[Joe45]

Another issue: Oil leaks!

You can see all the wetness from oil.

Getting a drop of oil about every six seconds.

Seems to be from the gasket of the oil pan.

Kind of like driving a sieve at the moment! LOL!

My odometer is km only, and said about 3,500km when i go the truck. Clearly that has spun around at least once.

• Got an oil change at about 3,500km/2175m.
• Needed about a quart at 5,390km/3,349m.
• Needed another quart at 7,594km/4,718m.
• Also about a quart of coolant at 4,684km/2,910m.

Average fuel consumption has been 39km/24.2 miles per gallon.

 

[Joe45]

And...
Does anyone know what this is? I am looking it up but don't have a manual right now. Note the disconnected wire.

If it's useless, would be good to remove it. Could be a spot for an auxiliary fuel tank? Maybe?

I am seriously considering getting a generic rewiring kit and doing this truck, then just making the schematic for it based on that rewiring.

 

[Living in the Past]

I contacted the Copper State Cruisers on Faceplant and am waiting to see what they say. WIll probably mess a bit with the outer hinges as well in the meantime.

Thanks all!!!

I assume you mean Facebook? I am not sure who from CSC uses FB or monitors it. I finally signed up for FB a few years back. I rarely use and have never visited the CSC FB account. Post it on the CSC here on mud. Anyone on mud could see it not just members. The last few years CSC has slowed downed for what of the most active clubs on mud but still think you should post here on mud too.

 

[Joe45]

I assume you mean Facebook? I am not sure who from CSC uses FB or monitors it. I finally signed up for FB a few years back. I rarely use and have never visited the CSC FB account. Post it on the CSC here on mud. Anyone on mud could see it not just members. The last few years CSC has slowed downed for what of the most active clubs on mud but still think you should post here on mud too.

Yes, Facebook.
I'll do that.

Thanks!

 

[whitey45]

That is a vacuum resevoir tank to store vacuum for your brakes. Likely disconnected due to leaks. The switch is a low vacuum warning light. Unfortunately the south american 45’s were well used and abused, then quickly painted and lots of short cuts taken to make some money selling to unsuspecting buyers in the us.

 

[cruisermatt]

I see some big frame repairs that were done.

Make sure the driveshafts are in phase, they usually aren’t. I can see the front isn’t.

 

[45Dougal]

That's the Brake vacuum reservoir as mentioned.
They store a lot of vacuum so that your brakes still work after you've rolled off the throttle.
What is the rubber hose on your brake servo connected to? - probably just the inlet manifold or nothing at all.?

I'd take the reservoir off, check for leaks, repaint and refit it as intended - should improve your brakes.

Modern cars often use an electric vacuum pump to enhance the vacuum - I've actually converted my hj45 to this arrangement and the brakes are much better for it

 

[Joe45]

That is a vacuum resevoir tank to store vacuum for your brakes. Likely disconnected due to leaks. The switch is a low vacuum warning light. Unfortunately the south american 45’s were well used and abused, then quickly painted and lots of short cuts taken to make some money selling to unsuspecting buyers in the us.

Hopefully mine isn't too bad!

 

[Joe45]

I see some big frame repairs that were done.

Make sure the driveshafts are in phase, they usually aren’t. I can see the front isn’t.

Do the repairs look bad? I will take a closer look-once I get around to removing the tub.
I'll look at how to get the shafts in phase. Have no idea.
Thanks!

 

[Joe45]

That's the Brake vacuum reservoir as mentioned.
They store a lot of vacuum so that your brakes still work after you've rolled off the throttle.
What is the rubber hose on your brake servo connected to? - probably just the inlet manifold or nothing at all.?

I'd take the reservoir off, check for leaks, repaint and refit it as intended - should improve your brakes.

Modern cars often use an electric vacuum pump to enhance the vacuum - I've actually converted my hj45 to this arrangement and the brakes are much better for it

Interesting.
I will have to check and see.
Also will remove and check the reservoir.
Thanks.

 

[Joe45]

I seem to have solved the door issue.
Undid the screws on the outer hinges, pulled up on the door at the closing end, and re-tightened the bolts. I still think the weather strip may be too thick, though.
The passenger door, with no weather strip, closes very easily. The driver side I have to use a little force, but now it closes with no gaps. When I open the driver door (with the weather strip) it pops open from the weather strip being compressed. Doesn't feel right. Maybe they used some crappy after market weather strip made for the 40 but too thick?

 

[45Dougal]

Do the repairs look bad? I will take a closer look-once I get around to removing the tub.
I'll look at how to get the shafts in phase. Have no idea.
Thanks!

Worth noting that all those joints and shaft couplings have grease nipples for a reason.
Doesn't look like they've seen grease recently - worth spending an afternoon figuring out where they all are and pumping them up.