Tips on removing a stuck fj40 pitman arm? (1 Viewer)

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There are witness marks on the pitman arm and the end of the output shaft.
I see them on the output shaft but not the pitman arm. Where on the arm should they be?

And when should the marks on the pitman arm line up with the ones on the output shaft? Should they line up when the arm is flush with the end of the shaft?

Thank you advance.
 
I apologize .....witness marks are on the mini truck Pitman arms, not the FJ40.

FJ40 pitman is on the right , mini truck pitman is on left.

Kevo

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Oh, thanks. If the FJ pitman doesn't have marks, how do I line it up correctly?
Rotate the steering wheel through its range and count the turns of the steerage wheel. Turn it halfway through it's range then center the front wheels. Put the arm on in that position loosely. That should put it close to where it should be. Before you lock it down for good ,steer it through its range and see if it turns more one way that the other. Adjust it accordingly and repeat until you have it correct. Might help to raise the front of the truck with a floor jack so there is less resistance while turning.
 
Got mine off without much fuss. You just need a quality puller and an impact. I made my own alignment marks with a punch before removal, but I still checked the range of motion using a digital angle block. If you apply heat, do it very gently. Replace the seal with a genuine Toyota part. Don't forget fresh 90wt GL-4.

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OXY TORCH IT CHERRY RED !

only way i have gotten off or know how

DO NOT WATER Quench

LET naturally air cool , will NOT change metallurgy or cause safty issuue .......fyi
 
OXY TORCH IT CHERRY RED !

only way i have gotten off or know how

DO NOT WATER Quench

LET naturally air cool , will NOT change metallurgy or cause safty issuue .......fyi
No!!! This is terrible advice. You have no way of knowing the grain structure of the material before heating. You would need to have and understand a TTT diagram for this material before making these sort of statements. Cherry red will destroy the seal and likely coke the oil in the box and probably destroy the bushing just behind the seal.
 
If there is any heat treatment to the pitman arm steel, heating it cherry red will certainly remove it.


NO QUENCH ......

only air cool

maybe a slight mid cool re-heat a bit is even better like cast iron
 
NO QUENCH ......

only air cool

maybe a slight mid cool re-heat a bit is even better like cast iron
When you go through the ME curriculum and take a materials course you will learn that "air cool" is a quench. Heat treatments can take DAYS of controlled cooldown or temp holds. This is why we use a TTT diagram. Fun trivia, some alloys are left sitting in warehouses to age harden. If left too long they can become over aged! Who knew alloys had a literal shelf life.
 
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Got mine off without much fuss. You just need a quality puller and an impact. I made my own alignment marks with a punch before removal, but I still checked the range of motion using a digital angle block. If you apply heat, do it very gently. Replace the seal with a genuine Toyota part. Don't forget fresh 90wt GL-4.

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Any chance you could tell what parts go into rebuilding this portion of the steering set up? I have a fj40 1964 and my bearing is toast
 
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Any chance you could tell what parts go into rebuilding this portion of the steering set up? I have a fj40 1964 and my bearing is toast


@65swb45 is your go-to fellow here on the early steering set ups
 

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