Builds Tink's preservation - 1964 FST (2 Viewers)

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So, neither of the lines I have may be original or useful. Will have to wait on until I find a distributor.
Didn’t know you were looking for a distributor. Also have a boxful of the brackets that stabilize the lines at the thermostat housing Matt.
 
I will call you later.😉
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Couldn’t find the tube clamps for a bit. Had to resort to the ladder to look into an OLD box of stuff.
Found this 1964 jewel, complete with the little clamps that hold the vacuum tube to the fuel line:

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In the same order I purchased tail light housings from Cruiser Cult. Thought that they were worth it since I hadn't noticed any original sets for sale lately.
I think a few miles on a gravel road will have them looking just right.

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After reinstalling the fuel and coolant systems, I had to start her up. Surprisingly she fired up and ran well. Checked the oil and found it a quart low on the dipstick. Also checked the battery and found it low. I remembered that I had loosened the generator bracket to get the fan belt off. Tightened that up. Another 30 minute run of the engine and that seems to be good. Did notice this wire hanging down. Anyone know where it is supposed to be connected? Gotta believe it goes back on one of the posts on the gen.

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Pushed her outside on this nice day to start it up. The parking brake worked well on the sloping driveway. Had to push her back in though. Seems that when I let off the clutch pedal she wants to die. Plans are to drop the transmission and transfer case for a good cleaning later this spring. With them out I can address the clutch. I will also be looking for a 8274 Warn Winch with some patina to go on the front.

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Checked the oil and found it a quart low on the dipstick.
So what marks on the dipstick indicate a quart low? Are there other marks for other amounts?
 
So what marks on the dipstick indicate a quart low? Are there other marks for other amounts?
I did an oil change and put in 5 quarts that came to just above the L on the stick. I put in another quart and that brought to the top of the cross hatch, just below the F.

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That’s great info @kunzma ! Didn’t see anything like that in the manual, only that the capacity is 6.5 qts which brought mine (same dipstick) up to the F line with oil filter change. Your info helps with “regulating“ my oil burning machine 😂 ! Thanks.
 
The rear wire harness had been hacked into in several places, along with my desire to pull my kayak trailer I decided to buy a new harness from Mark, aka @Coolerman. It's a slightly modified harness in that I had him put in a 4-wire hookup for the trailer. The new harness also fixed the grounding issue that was making the rear lights intermittent. It is made with all the period correct connectors which makes for a quick, easy install.

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Parts are ready to go Matt. Just waiting for PP.😊
 
The rear wire harness had been hacked into in several places, along with my desire to pull my kayak trailer I decided to buy a new harness from Mark, aka @Coolerman. It's a slightly modified harness in that I had him put in a 4-wire hookup for the trailer. The new harness also fixed the grounding issue that was making the rear lights intermittent. It is made with all the period correct connectors which makes for a quick, easy install.

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Didn’t realize he was making harnesses still. Need to ping him and get one going!
 
For the last couple of days I have been working on all the lights. All new fuses along with some new bulbs worked for most. Cleaning fixtures worked for the rest. The high/lo dimmer switch seemed to work about every third attempt. Luckily I had one in the parts drawer. It is missing the rubber boot that covers the terminals. Only difference between the two is that the screws in the newer one has phillips head screws.
Anyone reproducing the rubber boot for these switches?

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For the last couple of days I have been working on all the lights. All new fuses along with some new bulbs worked for most. Cleaning fixtures worked for the rest. The high/lo dimmer switch seemed to work about every third attempt. Luckily I had one in the parts draw. It is missing the rubber boot that covers the terminals. Only difference between the two is that the screws in the newer one has phillips head screws.
Anyone reproducing the rubber boot for these ?
Sounds like another project for @Racer65 .

I still have the NOS switch and boot I got from @Mace almost twenty years ago to take measurements from. And I could use four myself.😉

Left you a voicemail.
 
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Wait! You run your truck with jumper cables?

😛
 

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