Timing !!! (1 Viewer)

[Buffchief]

So I adjusted my valves cold and attempted adjusting the carburetor and timing etc.... it cranks and runs with the choke till it warms up but still having to adjust the carb. Trying to set the timing but the dang mark is now not showing through the inspection window! It's freshly marked white as well as the BB/hole. Advanced and retarded the distributor but mark is still not visible. With it running, the exhaust seems to be solid but kind of sputters as it goes on. I don't know how to go about checking the rpm. The timing mark was visible the other day before I jacked with it. I was having an issue with it overheating with everyone replaced. Read that it may be the timing. How do I get the timing mark back to the window? Thanks for any help. My first time doing this ! Exhaust smells kid of rich

 

[Rocky_LC]

You might be off a tooth on your distributor, or your wires are offset by a plug on the distributor cap…

 

[charliemeyer007]

I think you have a vacuum leak, that why it runs with the choke. Put a large hemostat on the brake booster hose. Make sure the carb and manifold bolts/nuts are tight. You need a manual so you can set the static timing 1# TDC rotor bug in dizzy pointing at #4 spark plug. Tack/dwell meter is cheap - helps set points correctly.

When asking for help year model market plus any other info like carb, dizzy....
Free download manuals Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) - https://www.cruisercult.com/factory-service-manuals

 

[Buffchief]

I had #1 at TDC and saw that the distributor was pointing at #4 plug when adjusting the valves. Have my vacuum gauge plugged into the intake manifold where the brake booster tube goes into. Vacuum seemed to bounce around at 15-17 but not sure if my rpm, if I adjust the throttle up the vacuum goes up.. I know all of this has to work together but not sure which to do first so it doesn't effect the others.
I have a 1980 fj40 , engine is a 2F with all smog equipment from a 1985 fj60 including the larger distributor, power steering and no AC.

I think you have a vacuum leak, that why it runs with the choke. Put a large hemostat on the brake booster hose. Make sure the carb and manifold bolts/nuts are tight. You need a manual so you can set the static timing 1# TDC rotor bug in dizzy pointing at #4 spark plug. Tack/dwell meter is cheap - helps set points correctly.

When asking for help year model market plus any other info like carb, dizzy....
Free download manuals Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) - https://www.cruisercult.com/factory-service-manual

 

[Buffchief]

You might be off a tooth on your distributor, or your wires are offset by a plug on the distributor cap…

Ok.....Ive read about this but .... If I have the timing mark exactly on the needle, and the distributor pointing AT #4 when I stabbed it in the hole (which was a pain in the ass as it twist going in) would it still line up? It looks to me to be at #4, how far off would one or two teeth be? Not sure about offset plug meaning? Cap is numbered.
Thanks for info..... everyone!! I'm pretty good at most things in restoration...NOT ELECTRICAL!!

 

[CruiserInProgress]

This diagram from the FSM helped me with a big cap upgrade on my 79 yesterday.

I had a little trouble setting the distributor so that I could see the timing marks with a light. Turns out I was off a tooth. My rotor needed to end up pointing just a little ahead of #4.

A couple more points:

- RPM should be near idle (950?)
- plug vacuum advance to set timing
- make sure fuel cutoff is powered and open

 

[Buffchief]

This diagram from the FSM might help.
I did a big cap upgrade on my 79 yesterday and had a little trouble setting the distributor so that I could see the timing marks.
A couple more points -
- RPM should be near idle (950?)
- plug vacuum advance to set timing
- make sure fuel cutoff is powered and open

View attachment 3881320

Thank you! It was pointing dead towards the #4 plug last night. Will go back this evening. Guess I need to get an rpm gauge. Am I wrong by having the vacuum gauge connected to the intake where the brake booster line goes? My distributor has two vacuum attachments on the side valve. Not sure about the fuel cut off. I'll check that. Thanks

 

[charliemeyer007]

Yes it turn as it rotates in. It is nearly imposable to get it pointed at a generice spot and be right. When you do get it right, because it runs correctly, the put it at TDC #1 compression and see exactly where it points, then always put it back in pointing at that exact spot. Make sure its seated in the oil pump before you run it very long. I pull the spark plugs and whirl it over with the starter until my direct read oil gauges reads pressure. Maybe a minute or 30 seconds.

 

[diesellibrarian]

I just went through this myself, and all this talk of the rotor pointing to #4 is kind confusing, and it took me a bit to wrap my head around it. What I finally figured out is that the rotor needs to be pointing at #4 *before* the teeth on the distributor gear engage the gear in the block. If you get that lined up correctly, the rotor will naturally spin counter-clockwise and come to rest at the #1 position when the distributor is seated. Before doing this, make doubly sure that the crank it at #1 TDC (ie. #1 piston is at the top of its stroke and both valves are closed). The timing dot appears in the window at both #1 and #6 TDC, so you need to make sure that you're at #1 TDC or the timing will be 180* out.

As @charliemeyer007 said, make sure the bottom of the distributor shaft is fully engaged in the oil pump slot. You can use a long flat blade screwdriver to align the slot with the tang on the bottom of the distributor. If the distributor won't fully seat, it's because the oil pump slot is not aligned properly with the distributor drive. Good luck!

 

[Pighead]

remember, there are two TDCs #1 for every one time the rotor goes around...

 

[Buffchief]

remember, there are two TDCs #1 for every one time the rotor goes around...

the #1 piston was full up and the rotor was pointing towards #4 while I had the timing mark on the needle perfect. Started it and mark never came into view with timing light. Fresh white paint on mark and BB/hole. Could this still be wrong? Thank you

 

[diesellibrarian]

Yes, that's wrong. The rotor must point to #1 when you're at #1 TDC. Pull the distributor partway out until you feel the teeth disengage (ie the shaft spins freely), and turn the shaft clockwise *slightly* as you push the distributor back in. The distributor gear should re-engage one tooth over, putting you closer to #1. If that doesn't quite get you far enough, repeat until the rotor is pointing at #1 with the distributor seated.

Capice?

[edit: if rotor is pointing at #4, it actually has to move clockwise, not counter clockwise when fully seated]

 

[diesellibrarian]

Also, if the distributor doesn't completely re-seat after you do the above process, it's because the shaft is not aligned with the oil pump slot. If this happens, either turn the engine over by hand while pressing down on the distributor, or have someone bump the starter (disconnect the wire to the coil) while you're pressing down on the distributor. You should feel it pop into place when the dist shaft and oil pump slot line up.

 

[Buffchief]

Yes, that's wrong. The rotor must point to #1 when you're at #1 TDC. Pull the distributor partway out until you feel the teeth disengage (ie the shaft spins freely), and turn the shaft clockwise *slightly* as you push the distributor back in. The distributor gear should re-engage one tooth over, putting you closer to #1. If that doesn't quite get you far enough, repeat until the rotor is pointing at #1 with the distributor seated.

Capice?

[edit: if rotor is pointing at #4, it actually has to move clockwise, not counter clockwise when fully seated]

What's all this I read about putting the rotor pointed to #4? Even pictures.

 

[diesellibrarian]

The idea is that if the rotor is pointing at #1 when you first insert the distributor shaft into the block, the gears (which are angled) will twist the rotor to the wrong location as you push it home. So, you have to start the "wrong" location so that the rotor ends up at the correct location (#1) when the distributor is fully installed.

It's not something you can really take a photo of.

If it helps: forget about any #4 nonsense and just keep experimenting with the position of the rotor before installation. When you find the spot where the rotor is pointing to #1 when fully installed, you've arrived! Again, make sure that the engine is at #1 TDC on the compression stroke while you do this.

 

[CruiserInProgress]

What's all this I read about putting the rotor pointed to #4? Even pictures.

Yeah, a little confusing here.
The rotor points at #1 in the cap, which is also toward #4 cylinder on the block in this case.

Once at TDC for #1, follow that page of the FSM above and try to get your rotor to end up pointing just ahead of #4 on the block. Worked for me yesterday with my big cap on a 2F.

 

[Pighead]

Don't confuse sparkplug #4 with sparkplug wire #1
My rotor at TDC#1...

 

[Buffchief]

Yeah, a little confusing here.
The rotor points at #1 in the cap, which is also toward #4 cylinder on the block in this case.

Once at TDC for #1, follow that page of the FSM above and try to get your rotor to end up pointing just ahead of #4 on the block. Worked for me yesterday with my big cap on a 2F.

Ok thanks ... yes ..that is confusing or I'm just kind of slow!

 

[charliemeyer007]

Got any local car people you could ask for help. Its like a 5 minute job to correctly set the base timing. I have no use for the vacuum advance/retard dizzy - mine is straight mechanical - rpm's determine the advance way good enough for a tractor.

 

[diesellibrarian]

Yeah, a little confusing here.
The rotor points at #1 in the cap, which is also toward #4 cylinder on the block in this case.

Once at TDC for #1, follow that page of the FSM above and try to get your rotor to end up pointing just ahead of #4 on the block. Worked for me yesterday with my big cap on a 2F.

Thanks for this clarification! I did not grasp the nuance between #4 on the cap and #4 cylinder.