Tie Rod..... (1 Viewer)

[KLF]

Have you used these particular rods before? Any comments on quality and service?

Yes, I have. I have a BudBuilt tie rod and draglink on my truck now. Very beefy, well made, perfect fit. EXCELLENT service too.

A couple of years ago I did a complete knuckle service on an 80 for a friend, when I tried to adjust the toe-in, the TRE's were completely siezed in the tube. Tried all the tricks, no go. Called Bud, had a nice new one in a couple of days, for cheaper than an OEM one too.

 

[Montana Cruiser]

Yes, I have. I have a BudBuilt tie rod and draglink on my truck now. Very beefy, well made, perfect fit. EXCELLENT service too.

A couple of years ago I did a complete knuckle service on an 80 for a friend, when I tried to adjust the toe-in, the TRE's were completely siezed in the tube. Tried all the tricks, no go. Called Bud, had a nice new one in a couple of days, for cheaper than an OEM one too.

Did they supply the ends, or did you source them from another vendor? The price looks right and from the description it's the same type and wall sized tubing as other heavy duty set-ups. Thanks for the info, had never even heard of them.

 

[NeverFinis]

Have you used these particular rods before? Any comments on quality and service?

He is best known for his skid plates...but I have known Bud a long time before he even started making parts for Toyotas. He was an engineer before that. He is one of the nicest guys you will ever meet.

The tie rod ends that you buy through him are geniune Toyota ends. You might be able to get them a little cheaper through a Toyota dealer directly (assuming you get a discount), but not by much. I ordered my tie rod powder coated and it is very heavy duty. I also got the relay rod through him as well.

He is available via ICQ and he is a member of the Yankee Toys.

 

[CDN_Cruiser]

Kevin,

Yeah I did use antiseize when I installed mine. Great reminder for those installing new ones.

L8Shift

This is elementary and I'm sure it's been noted here before, but when tightening the jamb nuts on the slee rod, GET THEM TIGHT. Hold the rod with a pipe wrench and tighten the nut.

I had them loosen up on me during some extended gravel-road time. The rod actually turned itself and was working it's way off of the TRE's. I thought it was driving squirrely (but I was in soft sand, so it wasn't real evident). Had I not checked it when I did I would have gone full pigeon-toed.

I have a question about this. I had a mechanic install mine before a trip I was taking (new tie rod, relay and TREs, +stock heigh OME). I still feel that my steering is kind of vague, not as tight as I would expect and stll some pulling to the left.

The question I have is does the jam nut thread on the same way as the rod (not explaining this very well) - ie should it be like a nut and bolt that 'thread together' or does the nut turn the same way as the rod (eg both clockwise)? I'm wondering if the mechanic threaded the jam nut on the wrong way and I'm getting some movement?

Thanks for any input.

Cheers, Hugh

 

[L8Shift]

Kevin,
L8Shift
This is elementary and I'm sure it's been noted here before, but when tightening the jamb nuts on the slee rod, GET THEM TIGHT. Hold the rod with a pipe wrench and tighten the nut.
I had them loosen up on me during some extended gravel-road time.

Hmmm...note taken! I probably wouldn't have leaned on it as much, being used to the factory clamps...Thanx.

I'll duct tape the pipe wrench jaws in an attempt to minimize the gouges on the 2 rods.. Then to get the alignment guys to use it...

 

[L8Shift]

The question I have is does the jam nut thread on the same way as the rod (not explaining this very well) - ie should it be like a nut and bolt that 'thread together' or does the nut turn the same way as the rod (eg both clockwise)? I'm wondering if the mechanic threaded the jam nut on the wrong way and I'm getting some movement?
Cheers, Hugh

The tie rod end threads into the rod like a bolt and nut.
The other end of the rod is reverse threaded (counter clockwise is lockwise). The jamnut is threaded like the rod.

Check to see if TREs are loose (gotten loose).... (as Ivan80 had kindly reminded us can happen)

I'm using a tire/front end shop instead of my regular mechanics for the alignment.

 

[CDN_Cruiser]

L8

Thanks, I think it is threaded on wrong, so my alignment is probably off again / getting some movement.

Cheers, Hugh

 

[ginericLC]

OK, here is a related question. Anyone upgrade their relay rod who is running Slee's caster plates. I'm concerned that I might have to do more grinding on the control arms. This could be bad as I was planning on having the alignment shop install the new relay rod and tie rod ends.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Oh wow, I stumbled on this looking for info on ID of pipe needed to sleeve the tie rod and drag link.

So, Having done half a dozen of these with some ease, I think you guys might not be thinking about the situation from a mechanics stand.

Remove the tie rod or drag link, loosen the clamp on one end and tap it down 8 or so inches from the bottom of the cut in the end. Place that end on the concrete on a board or a couple pieces of cardboard, use a dead blow and give the link end several firm hits where the rod end and link meet, turn the link and give it a couple hits as you turn it. Place the rod end back in the knuck (don't really need a nut), now use a large crescent or pipe wrench on the other TRE to unscrew the loose end, replace clamp and temp. tighten then do other end. I did both my spares that I bought a while back today and it too me 27 minutes including sanding the last foot of each to bare metal so I can go test fit tube around them. Hope this helps someone in the future.

 

[landtank]

Oh wow, I stumbled on this looking for info on ID of pipe needed to sleeve the tie rod and drag link.

So, Having done half a dozen of these with some ease, I think you guys might not be thinking about the situation from a mechanics stand.

Remove the tie rod or drag link, loosen the clamp on one end and tap it down 8 or so inches from the bottom of the cut in the end. Place that end on the concrete on a board or a couple pieces of cardboard, use a dead blow and give the link end several firm hits where the rod end and link meet, turn the link and give it a couple hits as you turn it. Place the rod end back in the knuck (don't really need a nut), now use a large crescent or pipe wrench on the other TRE to unscrew the loose end, replace clamp and temp. tighten then do other end. I did both my spares that I bought a while back today and it too me 27 minutes including sanding the last foot of each to bare metal so I can go test fit tube around them. Hope this helps someone in the future.

I'm not sure that procedure will work in New England.

 

[cruisercommando]

I've aligned and/or replaced the TRE's on a few of these over the last couple of years. Best thing I have found so far is to remove the rod assembly, slide the clamps out of the way, and use a dead blow hammer on the split sleeve area. Usually, I lay the split sleeve area on my anvil and a few whacks later it's pretty easy to turn. Penetrating oils will help a little, but persuasion from a hammer seems to be a little quicker.

 

[bmac1996acc]

My bootleg method was to to use a pipe wrench sitting in a position that is tight on the rod with the handle sitting a few inches lower than horizontal. Then I put my floor jack under the handle and jacked it up. It broke loose no problem with the weight of the truck as a counter.

...via IH8MUD app

 

[SHREDwagon]

A vice and Oxy-acetylene works magic.

 

[BILT4ME]

I recently did mine and immediately removed it from the truck, used the PB blaster, hitting it on all sides with a hammer over the threaded areas, then had to finally turn to heat. It took me over 3 hours to take it out, work it over and get it back in. I've done many of these on other vehicles, and this one was the most stuck one I've ever encountered.

I'm sure my neighbors were wondering what the **** I was doing THIS time!

Make sure you clean out the rust and debris by tapping it on the end (straight up and down to knock the stuff loose from inside the tube) and washing oit w/ PB blaster, then antisieze both the inside threads and the exterior of the TRE, then thread it all the way in and back out. Put on more anti seize, and screw in to near adjustment.

If you can, when it is all in place, try to place the split in a position so it is pointing down. I realize this is toe-in dependent, but if you have a choice of a little left, a little right.....

Also, I squirt a bunch of grease into the slit after it is installed to help block the hole and keep out water and dirt. You could maybe even dab some caulk over it to seal it..... Don't get too carried away or it will make it harder to come off later.

 

[Hornd]

I tried for hours to remove the Drivers Side Tie Rod end. Used MAP Gas, Used Propane, Used PB Blaster. Took entire tire rod off and mounted in vice. Still no dice.
Very Frustrating. There is no reason Mr T made this fine thread. Should be coarse with a lock nut. Tie Rod can not spin off so why use fine threads?
Next it's getting Acetylene.

 

[GXO]

Upgrade opportunity. If it is seized that much I would just replace it.

 

[Howard705]

Done many vehicles this way-clamps off-one end removed from knuckle-hammer screwdriver into slot to open slightly to open, if it won't fit hit at angle to open-then soak with penetrant-tap around OD thread area-put box end of large (around 1") OVER taper to use to spin-cleanup all rust and antiseize-reassemble that side to arm/tight etc-then other side same-now loosen clamps and adjust. Done it on all sizes vehicles-jeeps up to semi tractor.