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Tie Rod.....

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by Desertmaster, Aug 25, 2006.

  1. Desertmaster

    Desertmaster

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    I am trying to adjust the toe on the rig (97 model, 110K), I got the clamps loose on both ends, but the tie rod it self is not moving at all even with PB blaster at each end......any thought will be most appreciated.

    Al
     
  2. -Spike-

    -Spike-

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    Heat the sleeve. No guarantees.

    -Spike
     
  3. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    What are you using to attempt to turn the tube?
     
  4. Desertmaster

    Desertmaster

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    Dan - I am using a Big Pipe wrench
     
  5. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    That would have been my recommendation.
     
  6. Trunk Monkey

    Trunk Monkey Moderator

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    Heat. We broke a snapon chain wrench doing mine.
     
  7. clownmidget

    clownmidget

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    If it's really, really bad you can use a TRE puller and pop off the rod with the ends intact then place the rod in a nice big vise and go through the heat, liquid wrench, big pipe wrench exercises. I've only had to do that once but it gave me a fair fighting chance instead of hunkered under the truck. Good luck.
    Mike
     
  8. Desertmaster

    Desertmaster

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    Thakns Guys....as most of you said HEAT is the only solution at this point.....I gave up on it today....I will get to it tomorrow morning.

    Al
     
  9. Jason Andrews

    Jason Andrews

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    To break mine free I slid a cut off piece of fence post pipe on the end of the pipe wrench and got some more leverage for pushing down. I also did not get the ends out and ended up stripping the threads by completely legthening the tie rod all the way before pickle forking the ends out once it was loose. So be careful unless you plan on putting on a new heavy duty tie rod.
     
  10. Dusty

    Dusty

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    1. weld piece of schedule 40 pipe to tierod and use as lever

    2. now twist off easily

    3. grind off pipe

    4. sleeve tie rod with pipe you used as lever

    5.weld sleeve in place using rosett welds

    6. put back together
     
  11. Kalawang

    Kalawang

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    Use 2. The second one to counter so that you don't end up destroying the Tie Rod.


    Kalawang


     
  12. DanKunz

    DanKunz SILVER Star

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    I took mine to a shop and $30 later had proper toe.

    I got to watch three mechanics hanging on my truck by three pipe wrenches...

    It looked really hard :)
     
  13. kbellve

    kbellve

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  14. Ivan80

    Ivan80

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    After 3 nights of trying to get mine loose with PB Blaster, torch, Pipe wrenchs+breaker bars, I gave up.

    $200 later (new TRE's and a slee rod) the toe in is now adjustable.
     
  15. Tools R Us

    Tools R Us

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    Did you put the new one together with plenty of antiseize, so it will still be adjustable next time it's needed?
     
  16. L8Shift

    L8Shift

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    Thanks for the reminder.. :grinpimp:
    I'm expecting both Slee rods (tie/relay) and a set of ends here shortly... and probably woulda forgot...

    Then back on the alignment rack..
     
  17. Ivan80

    Ivan80

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    Kevin,

    Yeah I did use antiseize when I installed mine. Great reminder for those installing new ones.

    L8Shift

    This is elementary and I'm sure it's been noted here before, but when tightening the jamb nuts on the slee rod, GET THEM TIGHT. Hold the rod with a pipe wrench and tighten the nut.

    I had them loosen up on me during some extended gravel-road time. The rod actually turned itself and was working it's way off of the TRE's. I thought it was driving squirrely (but I was in soft sand, so it wasn't real evident). Had I not checked it when I did I would have gone full pigeon-toed.


    :eek:
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2006
  18. Montana Cruiser

    Montana Cruiser

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  19. TiredIronGRB

    TiredIronGRB

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    Sorry I saw this late, I've had a lot of experience getting bolts and such unstuck because of all the old rusty military vehicles I've restored.

    Soak the treads down good with PBB and let it soak for a few hours then heat it up all the way around the TRE. With a small brass hammer peck around the section of tierod that is around the TRE threads, the hammering around the tierod ends will crush the rust on the threads. It should come lose after that.
     
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  20. 619TOY

    619TOY

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    After Ben at Slee warned me of this potential hurdle I sprayed mine down with penetrating oil and let it soak in for about a week before I tested it. When I did it broke free. But then again it did live in AZ before I bought it.
     
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