Tie rod (not end) removal (1 Viewer)

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CharlieS

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Question: will the tie rod come out of the vehicle without removing a wheel, or is wheel removal necessary?

Background: new to me '94 had a front "tie rod end" (mechanics words, but what Toyota calls the "relay rod" end) called out as needing replacement during its state safety inspection. I ordered a full set of made in Japan 555 ends from Crusier Outfitters, removed the relay rod and one of the ends was stuck. I inadvertently and seriously gouged the relay rod in my vice while trying to get the end out, so opted to replace it. I figured I'd also upgrade/do preventive maintenance on the tie rod while I'm in there (since I'll be getting it aligned, might as well). I ordered both from Slee and they shipped Friday.

While I'm waiting for them to arrive, I thought I'd also remove the stock tie rod. That way when they arrive, it is a quick and easy job to install everything.

I did a quick look, and it seems like I may need to pull a wheel to get the whole tie rod out, but I'd like to be wrong and it will come out with both front wheels on.

I have a tie rod/ball joint puller set, so removing the tapered ends is easy. It is a cheap set from Harbor Fright that has worked well for me on many projects without breaking the bank.

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
It can be done without removing wheels.

image.jpg
 
Question: will the tie rod come out of the vehicle without removing a wheel, or is wheel removal necessary?

Background: new to me '94 had a front "tie rod end" (mechanics words, but what Toyota calls the "relay rod" end) called out as needing replacement during its state safety inspection. I ordered a full set of made in Japan 555 ends from Crusier Outfitters, removed the relay rod and one of the ends was stuck. I inadvertently and seriously gouged the relay rod in my vice while trying to get the end out, so opted to replace it. I figured I'd also upgrade/do preventive maintenance on the tie rod while I'm in there (since I'll be getting it aligned, might as well). I ordered both from Slee and they shipped Friday.

While I'm waiting for them to arrive, I thought I'd also remove the stock tie rod. That way when they arrive, it is a quick and easy job to install everything.

I did a quick look, and it seems like I may need to pull a wheel to get the whole tie rod out, but I'd like to be wrong and it will come out with both front wheels on.

I have a tie rod/ball joint puller set, so removing the tapered ends is easy. It is a cheap set from Harbor Fright that has worked well for me on many projects without breaking the bank.

Thanks!
You do NOT need yo remove a wheel to remove or replace the tie (relay) rod or the tie rod ends (TRE).

If you want to just replace the tie rod, you can jack up one front wheel so it moves more easily left to right (not 100% necessary) and you can loosen both locking clamps, the unscrew the tie rod from both ends. Turning it one direction will unscrew both ends at the same time.

Or, you can remove one or both TRE from the steering arms, then unscrew each end individually. Make sure yo reinstall them with relatively equal number of turns each to get full adjustment range. One end is right hand threads, one end is left hand threads.

After installing and adjusting toe-in properly, retighten the lock clamps in an orientation that they don't hit the lower control arms when steering left and right.
 
Or, you can remove one or both TRE from the steering arms, then unscrew each end individually. Make sure yo reinstall them with relatively equal number of turns each to get full adjustment range. One end is right hand threads, one end is left hand threads.
To add, TRE center to center should be ~48.54" per the FSM.
 
From the FSM for my '94.

IMG_0021.jpeg
IMG_0022.jpeg
 
That is definitely interesting. I wonder why they are different? Those ones above are photos I took from the 1994 Land Cruiser Factory Service Manual. If is on page SR-49 of the Steering - Steering Linkage chapter.
 
Here's the '97 FSM confirming what was said above:
IMG_0049.jpeg


I opened several years and it looks like the spec changed between the 1995 and 1996 editions.
 

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