throttle position sensor voltage reading 1hd-ft (1 Viewer)

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Oct 9, 2013
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dear fellows i want to adjust my TPS of hdj81 1hd-ft 24valve because i rebuild injection pump and nozzle but now lack of power in initial gears.accelerates slowly like someone have applied hand break and black smoke as well.
i attached voltmeter to TPS positive terminal giving 5.05volts and then found ground and other wire which leads to ECU.
when i checked voltage with no accelerator pedal pressed it was giving reading of 3.67v (no accelerator pressed)

slowly pressing accelerator pedal the voltage started decreasing slowly till it reached 0.92v with full accelerator pressed.

Can any one tell me what should be the voltage with no accelerator pressed ?
Are the above mentioned voltage alright?or i have to adjust TPS?
 
To new for most of us....go to the Diesel section in forums
You need a shop manual.
 
X2, post in the diesel section, and track down the FSM.
 
Guess you are refering to FTE engine ... since the FT it's only the 24V version of the 1HD-T ..

Even the '93+ auto version of the HDJ81's w/ 1HD-T's have TPS on the injection pump, any of them with electronic shift solenoids in the trans use the TPS to dictate when it shifts/downshift along with RPM. If it's out of calibration or faulty, it could cause driveability issues.
 
Hi,
UP,
I'm going to change the tps on my 80 with the 1HD-FT, because my cruise control is over and I have a code 41 on diag,
you'll find the voltage value at MT170 page of the manual, they said for all country exept AUS: 5,05v input, 2,754v output, fix it.
I tested the actual tps even after opening and cleaning, impossible to find 2,754v, then ordered a new one;
for AUS 1HD-FT, they said, put the throttle at the maximum and mesure 0,6V output at the tps.
Like you, I also have a very slow acceleration compared to many other "modified" 1HD-FT I tried, even with a bit more turbo pressure, boost compesator and flow adjust, and top mount cooler!
the engine is in perfect condition, it has power with high rpm,
hope this TPS change helps me to find a normal acceleration for this engine, Vicious77, can you give me a feed back for your situation?
If there is an other post un diesel section, sorry for the mistake...
 
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if you have a hdj81 with 1HD-FT engine, the TPS has no effect on the injection pump. Injection control is 100% mechanical.

faulty TPS can affect when the auto trans kicks down a gear.
does your auto kick down when you push the accelerator to the floor under load?
 
unfortunatly, 1HD-FT in europe only came with manual H151F gearbox, no A442F ...(just edit my signature :)
seems to have a little electronic interaction with the Cruise control, I know the Injection Pump is mechanical and understand that normaly the tps is only relevant for 1HDT with auto trans...
I'll change tps next week and hope... ;)
 
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back, I tried the new tps this afternoon,
impossible to place it at the 2,754 volt as requiered on the pump,
the minimum is 3,1v, exactly like the old TPS (so it looks like the old one still work)
even if I disconnect the 2 links of the throttle,
The voltage is 0,36v at full throttle
Seems like if my error code 41 for the tps comes from his bad position, it never give back 2,754v to the ECU
If you have any idea let me know
thank's
 
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did you get this sorted out??

how did you test the volts?
for thay dont seam the same to what i have read.

TPS1.png


TPS2.png
 
i have a dead spot in between 3v and 4v it drops down to 0v making the auto drop down gears when on the hyway at 100-110km

so i am would like to know how hard it is to change as Toyota has a warning about changing it
 
My FT auto hasn’t been changing gears properly for ages, tried all the usual things - farted around with kickdown cable so many times I’ve lost count, installed a modified valve body to try and improve shifting, synthetic oil ect ect. Anyway after finding this thread and reading your post mudgudgeon (legend)and 10 million bloody google searches on how to improve A442f shifting, I thought I’d try and give the TPS a bit of a turn. Well f@&$# me, now it shifts without any flaring whatsoever! Also now changes up to second without reving too much when almost coming to a rolling stop from speed and accelerating again. Before it wouldn’t change up till about 1600 rpm even under light throttle input, but if you were starting from a standstill it would change as it should?!

I had transmission shops telling me “yeah it’s probably on its way out” pfffft wankers.

Thank sweet baby Jesus for ih8mud and good people willing to share their wisdom
 
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My FT auto hasn’t been changing gears properly for ages, tried all the usual things - farted around with kickdown cable so many times I’ve lost count, installed a modified valve body to try and improve shifting, synthetic oil ect ect. Anyway after finding this thread and reading your post mudgudgeon (legend)and 10 million bloody google searches on how to improve A442f shifting, I thought I’d try and give the TPS a bit of a turn. Well f@&$# me, now it shifts without any flaring whatsoever! Also now changes up to second without reving too much when almost coming to a rolling stop from speed and accelerating again. Before it wouldn’t change up till about 1600 rpm even under light throttle input, but if you were starting from a standstill it would change as it should?!

I had transmission shops telling me “yeah it’s probably on its way out” pfffft wankers.

Thank sweet baby Jesus for ih8mud and good people willing to share their wisdom


have you got thr auto users Manuel?
My FT auto hasn’t been changing gears properly for ages, tried all the usual things - farted around with kickdown cable so many times I’ve lost count, installed a modified valve body to try and improve shifting, synthetic oil ect ect. Anyway after finding this thread and reading your post mudgudgeon (legend)and 10 million bloody google searches on how to improve A442f shifting, I thought I’d try and give the TPS a bit of a turn. Well f@&$# me, now it shifts without any flaring whatsoever! Also now changes up to second without reving too much when almost coming to a rolling stop from speed and accelerating again. Before it wouldn’t change up till about 1600 rpm even under light throttle input, but if you were starting from a standstill it would change as it should?!

I had transmission shops telling me “yeah it’s probably on its way out” pfffft wankers.

Thank sweet baby Jesus for ih8mud and good people willing to share their wisdom


have you got the pdf manuel
a442f testing pdf - Google Search

first link will give you every thing you need to know. and test to work out whats wrong. this help me heaps when i was having the problem.
 
have you got thr auto users Manuel?



have you got the pdf manuel
a442f testing pdf - Google Search

first link will give you every thing you need to know. and test to work out whats wrong. this help me heaps when i was having the problem.
have you got thr auto users Manuel?

Ahh nope, have every other one... muchas gracias

have you got the pdf manuel
a442f testing pdf - Google Search

first link will give you every thing you need to know. and test to work out whats wrong. this help me heaps when i was having the problem.
 
HELP FROM ITALY ---- Good morning guys .... I'm Riccardo from Italy. I am a happy owner of an automatic HDJ80 for 20 years. I recently overhauled the injection pump and now when the O/D button is ON, even with the engine off, the O/D OFF light flashes. I read the diagnostic code error 41 (throttle position sensor) ... When I start slowly the car shifts gears and goes into 1 - and 3rd gear + O/D.... if I slow down slowly and almost stop the car will downshift gears from 3 - 2 - 1 ..... but if I am the 3a and I accelerate the car dont do downshift. If I use it manually with the lever all gears work. Seem that the Cick-Down doesn't work. I disconnected the connector from the "Throttle Position Sensor" and did these first two tests following the repair manual .... with the sensor mounted on the accelerator lever in the pump injection and then moving the lever in order to change the angle of the sensor


a) Resistance: I ceck the value of resistance between terminal VC and E2 with result 2.8 K Ohm (seem ok) ... but if I move the accelerator sail in order to change the angle of the sensor the resistance value remains 2.8 K Ohm ... . is it correct?

b) Voltage: I applied 5 Vdc between the VC (positive) terminal and the E2 (negative) terminal .... then I measured the voltage between the VA (positive) and E2 (negative) terminal and I read 4.9 Volt fixed, even if I moved the lever and then changed the angle of the sensor again .... but the voltage remains fixed at 4.9 Vdc

The test I made is correct ???.. when change the angle of the sensor shouldn't some value of resistance or voltage have to change??? What do you think? Some idea? Grazie e ciao :)
sensor? Other ideas?
IMG_5439.jpg
 
HELP FROM ITALY ---- Good morning guys .... I'm Riccardo from Italy. I am a happy owner of an automatic HDJ80 for 20 years. I recently overhauled the injection pump and now when the O/D button is ON, even with the engine off, the O/D OFF light flashes. I read the diagnostic code error 41 (throttle position sensor) ... When I start slowly the car shifts gears and goes into 1 - and 3rd gear + O/D.... if I slow down slowly and almost stop the car will downshift gears from 3 - 2 - 1 ..... but if I am the 3a and I accelerate the car dont do downshift. If I use it manually with the lever all gears work. Seem that the Cick-Down doesn't work. I disconnected the connector from the "Throttle Position Sensor" and did these first two tests following the repair manual .... with the sensor mounted on the accelerator lever in the pump injection and then moving the lever in order to change the angle of the sensor


a) Resistance: I ceck the value of resistance between terminal VC and E2 with result 2.8 K Ohm (seem ok) ... but if I move the accelerator sail in order to change the angle of the sensor the resistance value remains 2.8 K Ohm ... . is it correct?

b) Voltage: I applied 5 Vdc between the VC (positive) terminal and the E2 (negative) terminal .... then I measured the voltage between the VA (positive) and E2 (negative) terminal and I read 4.9 Volt fixed, even if I moved the lever and then changed the angle of the sensor again .... but the voltage remains fixed at 4.9 Vdc

The test I made is correct ???.. when change the angle of the sensor shouldn't some value of resistance or voltage have to change??? What do you think? Some idea? Grazie e ciao :)
sensor? Other ideas?View attachment 2703570
I believe the manual is incorrect, for 1HD-T and 1HD-FT, try applying 5v between VA and E2 and measure voltage between VC and E2 @ full throttle.
 

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