Threw a P0710 code today..... (1 Viewer)

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Was heading out to Montauk Point this morning got a CEL :doh:

Scanner came up with a P0710 (trans temp sensor malfunction) :hmm:

No drivability issues, so I cleared it, but it immediately came back :bang:

Crawled underneath and found a broken wire on the connector for the temp sensor (probably happened when I was pressure washing it yesterday) :meh:

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Been searching for a matching pigtail and found several that appear to be correct, but they're all listed as generic Toyota "coolant temp sensor"


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Can anyone confirm that these are compatible?
 
Those shapes are not the same. Your connector is more rounded.
 
I looked at the EWD for a 2000 model year Cruiser, which has a list of the connector part numbers.

For the 1997 A/T Sensor, the designation is A3 and it looks like this.
1997 A3.JPG


The 2000 A/T Sensor is called A7 and looks like this. Its part number from Toyota is shown below.
2000 A7 Pic.JPG

2000 A7 PN.JPG


From Toyota, those parts usually come as bare connectors and you will need the pigtail or a terminal. For what it's worth, just replacing that terminal is also an option, keeping the original connector.
 
Amazon has every-freaking-thing!!!!
 
So here's sumthin interesting :hmm:

All has been well since the new plug install with no codes :cool:

But last weekend, my wife found the original plug sitting the cupholder of my daily beater and while I was explaining to her what it was, I noticed one of the sensor pins had broken off inside it :oops:

brokenpininconnector.jpg



Odd that it didn't throw any codes (I figure it might be a redundant ground wire), but I ordered a new sensor anyways :meh:

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Threw it in this morning and sure enough the pin on the original sensor was missing o_O

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Good to go again.....
 
Pin 2 is the signal wire back to the ECM (Red-white wire). Pin 1 is the ground, which is shared by other sensors such as the engine temp and TPS (Brown-black wire). With this information, it is odd that the code did not come back. My thought is that the criteria for actually determining this circuit is faulty may have never been met since you cleared the code after the last repair. The code description says the engine has to be operating for at least 15 minutes before an open circuit can be detected. It does not specify, but some codes also require "2-trips" before turning on the MIL.
 
Yeah, I haven't had any codes since the new connector with over 10 or so drive cycles 🤔

Currently working on the 3 switches on the T-Case :steer:



All seems well, but I'm gunna order a new Neutral Position switch and throw it in anyways cause it tested a little wonky on the meter :meh:
 

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