This is what self-hatred looks like.

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What size is the standard FJ62 alternator? I swear mine is an 80 or 90a?


I believe 80 amp was standard and with an optional 90 amp available (maybe in a specific package?). My old alternator had all the outward appearance of a 90 amp alternator (internal fan; side-post output) but from what I was able to dig up in the archives, it was actually an 80 amp unit.

I've never seen a photo of a 90 amp alternator/engine mounting bracket so I just made my own.
 
By the way, I got the heater hose outlets cut, turned, and welded. Not perfect, but it should do.

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I used low profile unistrut for my battery hod down bar with the idea of being able to mount a distribution block on top in the future. Just a thought for a clean installation:

84 bj46 long term maintenance, repair and upgrade- making it mine.

Where did you get that distribution box? I like it.

Great work- it's all in the details right!
 
I used low profile unistrut for my battery hod down bar with the idea of being able to mount a distribution block on top in the future. Just a thought for a clean installation:

84 bj46 long term maintenance, repair and upgrade- making it mine.

Where did you get that distribution box? I like it.

Great work- it's all in the details right!

The power distribution box is from a late model Volkswagen Beetle. I tried to adapt one from a Toyota, but the only one I could find was from a mid-nineties Previa and it just doesn't have enough leads for my application. So, I went with the best thing I could find.

Where'd you get the light? Do you like it more than a strip LED light?

I prefer incandescent bulbs in an engine compartment over the blinding white light from an LED, but either would work just fine. It's largely personal preference.
 
Ok, it took me two months but I finally settled on a location for the power distribution box. I decided mounting it on top of the battery was a really bad idea since I was essentially putting a large "metal" bracket smack-dab between the two battery posts... probably not a great thing in the event of a collision that causes the battery to slide forward...

I made these little brackets and welded them to the heater delete plate. This way, the block stays vertical for water drainage and it will also allow me to shorten the primary wiring loom by about 18".

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I made a bracket for the aux. relay box and flipped the delete plate upside down to keep the wire loom grommet and A/C lines up higher (closer to the bottom of the glovebox).

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I also made a little tab to lock the panel to the heater delete plate because the distribution block kept wanting to slide out too easily.

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Space is at a premium on the passenger side of the engine compartment.

I had to move the battery pedestal back about 6" to clear the A/C compressor. That really made things difficult because now there's not a lot of room for things like the battery cut-off switch, vapor recovery components, and fuel filter.


The space between the firewall and battery tray is a very busy place ... cowl and engine harnesses, rear brake lines, battery primary wires, battery cut-off switch, ARB compressor, power distribution box, and A/C lines all have to squeeze into this space.

In order to fit everything, I first moved the battery cut-off to the front of the battery pedestal.

I then made a new bracket for the charcoal canister and remotely located the purge switch on the firewall.

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Finalized the attachment of the cruise control cable.
While rummaging through imports at pick-n-pull, I found a throttle cable adjuster on a 3rd GEN 4runner that is the perfect size for a 5mm cable. I used a clamp on barrel end-fitting that I found on eBay to fit the cable to the throttle body cam.

And after a bit of tweeking of the TB adjustment plate to angle the cable up and over the top, I think it came out just fine.

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Still playing with the doors.


The keyless/central locking install is creeping along too. I'm having some problems with the solenoids and am not sure if it's that they don't have enough umph to reliably operate or if I just need to clean and lube the mechanisms first.


More to come.


 

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