The Wall of Shame

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‘60s era junkies like myself know that Toyota did a major production change to the steering system in July of 1969, including the change of center arm design, the spline count on the steering wheel and...the thread pitch on the steering wheel retainer nut from 1.5 to 1.25.

All the castle nuts and tie rod studs on this guy’s truck were 1.5, the pitch Toyota left behind in 1969. So unless the tie rod ends we’re changed in the first year, they would have come as 1.25.

Customer now has new tie rod ends and...I now have 5 more low-mileage 1.50 castle nuts in the stash.;)
 
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A 1978 FJ40 Steering coupling (rag joint) bought three years ago from one of this sites reputable vendors, 45230-36010, less than 25,000 miles driven on the vehicle. The older OEM flex couplings were rubber with laminated strands of fiber the new couplings are solid rubber, I've seen the older style last for decades.
This catastrophic failure acted like the loss of preload on the power steering gearbox and also caused a death wobble on a bumpy asphalt highway. From now on, I guess I'll have to carry a spare in the truck.
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Gave it a cursory glance over and told the customer that IMO his tie rod ends were original. As in 52 years old.
I think the OEM ones are much better than what you get today. I just bought new rubbers to my 39 year old originals. No extra play, still feels tight. 👌
 
I think the OEM ones are much better than what you get today. I just bought new rubbers to my 39 year old originals. No extra play, still feels tight. 👌

:rolleyes:
 
Today’s entry: THE most worn out motor mount I’ve ever pulled out of a cruiser. Of course both rears were loose, but not broken. Passenger rear bolt was canted over at almost 45 degrees, indicating a substantial shift from stock location.

But what made this wall-worthy was that it was run with broken mounts so long that all the rubber was rubbed out of the right front insulator: metal to metal! Top and bottom plates were 1/2 apart, both vertically AND HORIZONTALLY!:eek:
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Same truck. Suspension SO flat that the main steering rod was compromised by the clamp on the relay rod!
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Sometimes even the ordinary can be shame-worthy.

A few weeks back I did a carb rebuild and install on a survivor ‘68 FJ40 with in all likelihood under 100k original. Real clean looking truck. Gave it a cursory glance over and told the customer that IMO his tie rod ends were original. As in 52 years old. He did not want to believe me. I came back to it two or three more times over the course of the stay, and he agreed to let me change them.

As soon as I pulled the first one off, I chuckled.View attachment 2299999

Mark I randomly ran I to Christian in Western Colorado. @65swb45
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Mark I randomly ran I to Christian in Western Colorado. @65swb45
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Im stoked to know Christian is out there using his rig! While I was servicing his truck, we got to know each other a bit, and he was amazed when I told him I’d had my 40 to South Dakota and back last summer. It may have inspired him.
 
winch mount was no where near straight. this would have failed i’m sure had it been used!!
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It took me a minute to realize the winch spool is nowhere near parallel to the housing that supports the drum and shaft. That IS crazy!
 
As I dig deeper into the latest Shamer, I had the transmission and transfer case pulled on Monday for rebuilding. They are there SOMEWHERE under the muck!
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What makes this stranger is that the PO told my customer the engine had been rebuilt, so the trans would have been out. But obviously not serviced. Also note that one of the 6 tower bolts is missing. This may have contributed substantially to the heavy layer of muck that mummified this thing.
 
Apparently it didn’t occur to anyone doing the engine rebuilding that new seals might be appropriate for a 40+ year old transmission, so it was also reinstalled without an imput seal.:bang:

The ensuing leak into the brand new clutch made for some interesting habitat management for the rodent population. There was obviously a source of carpet insulation nearby!
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Nothing too serious, just stupid. why would you paint the badges black over perfectly good chrome? Why would you try to silicone them to the side of the vehicle then use drywall anchors and screws to finally secure them to the vehicle? View attachment 2407207
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That's the uber rare "blackout" model badges from an undisclosed region that only got 100 cruisers. It is also a 50hp upgrade to the mighty 2F.
 
Drywall anchors and screws hold securely in Bondo.
 
Nothing too serious, just stupid. why would you paint the badges black over perfectly good chrome? Why would you try to silicone them to the side of the vehicle then use drywall anchors and screws to finally secure them to the vehicle?

Blackout badges are kinda the "in" thing these days (or maybe 10 year ago, I forget).
Silicone, looks more like RTV, it was right there. Why do things right when you can do them NOW.
The drywall anchors, did he use drywall screws? cause you can't just put a nut on the back of one of those?
 
So I actually have the apron emblems for my truck but the anchors are broken off. In order to be a good PO and not wind up on the wall of shame, is the only recourse buying new fender aprons? Or is there some sort of an approved glue for this application? (I’m half serious).
 
and is there a way to get them off without breaking the posts?
 

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