The things that fail and how they changed 100 vs. 200

[TonyP]

And what did he use on the Ball joint?

Upper ball joint? If the nut is torque properly, just undo the nut holding the UCA (17MM?) to the spindle and a few taps of a hammer and the spindle will separate from the UBJ/UCA.

Or you can undo the two fasteners holding the LCA to the LBJ assembly under the spindle.

Either way, it's an easy swap with the right tools.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Hey Kurt, to switch to a different part...

The only 200 part I’ve personally seen fail was a few of the 8 alignment cam tabs sheared off. Granted that was in something worse than race conditions. So that has been the only thing that I’ve reinforced when I got mine.

Have you seen any of those fail from racing?

Yup, we've had to repair and reinforce them often. Fortunately it doesn't leave you stranded, just destroys handling and tires

 

[Chocolate]

I think this thread is a great idea.

To that end, it might be useful to post dealer data reports on higher mile 200s closer to the 200K range.

It's also useful to note if something is specific to the 2008-2011 years (such as the radiator), all model years, or any other combination.

You can register at Toyota or Lexus and add a VIN you see on www.Autotrader.com or www.Cars.com.

Edited by Moderator

 

[Romer]

I think this thread is a great idea.

To that end, it might be useful to post dealer data reports on higher mile 200s closer to the 200K range.

It's also useful to note if something is specific to the 2008-2011 years (such as the radiator), all model years, or any other combination.

You can register at Toyota or Lexus and add a VIN you see on www.Autotrader.com or www.Cars.com.

Here's a 2008 with 180K+:
(25K Character Limit per post)

This will really bog this thread down. If you want to post with a summary of a specific issue that is fine.

 

[linuxgod]

I have had a couple CV failures. However, they were induced by improper driveline angles. I had the front wheels adjusted forward using the alignment capabilty of the SPC upper arms. I have since spoken with SPC, and they recommend not to exceed 3/4" forward adjustment. I was close 1 1/4".

IIRC SPC's "neutral" position is +1 degree caster. Any idea how far 3/4" is? Mine are set at +2 degrees (IIRC they go up to +4) and the alignment tech did the remaining adjustment with the cam bolts, but I'm running a bit over 4 degrees total caster and now I'm wondering if that's OK

 

[TexasTundra]

So back to your original post Kurt, based on what you've seen fail, what's in your spare parts list for your 200?

 

[TexAZ]

@linuxgod , moving the wheels forward did not affect the alignment. If your numbers are within the Toyota spec, they should be fine.

The bottom of the page on the SPC installation instructions mention that if you need to push the wheels forward (like a tundra clearing 35s) you can set the lower control arm adjustments narrower in front, wider in back and that will push everything forward. then use the SPC arm adjustment to get your alignment numbers in spec.

I took that to the extreme. just told the alignment shop to push them as forward as they could and still get it to align properly.
I had no idea they could go more than an inch forward. Turned out, that even though possible, it had detrimental effects on the angles of the CV shafts.

 

[linuxgod]

@linuxgod , moving the wheels forward did not affect the alignment. If your numbers are within the Toyota spec, they should be fine.

The bottom of the page on the SPC installation instructions mention that if you need to push the wheels forward (like a tundra clearing 35s) you can set the lower control arm adjustments narrower in front, wider in back and that will push everything forward. then use the SPC arm adjustment to get your alignment numbers in spec.

Thanks. The alignment guy pushed my caster to +0.5 to +0.7 degree over spec, in part because I tow a lot and wanted to track as straight as possible. I have no idea what the arc of wheel travel looks like and whether because the truck is lifted push caster over spec is actually closer to the "sweep" the wheel makes from a stock alignment or further off.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

So back to your original post Kurt, based on what you've seen fail, what's in your spare parts list for your 200?

It's growing by the day it seems, I just lost a rear wheel bearing at 120k. Though that isn't something I think one could successfully repair without a press.

I planned to do some more side by side notes when we get the race car back at the shop for prep, that should be happening in the coming weeks.

As for my personal spares or things I'll be adding:

Serpentine Belt
Inner tie rod ends
L&R Outer tie Rod ends & hardware
LBJ
UBJ
F&R U-joints and driveline hardware
Fluids
Oil filter element
Plug & Coilpack
APPS
F&R wheel studs and nuts
F&R brake pads (can safe day in event of damaged caliper)
UCA, LCA and Track Bar hardware
Cheapy ABS sensors
I'll have to pop my boxes and think of others

Fwiw with the race car, we also carry all of the above (on the car) and:

Rear track bar, UCA and LCA
Throttle Body
ECU (mounted and a few minutes to swap)
Rear driveline (complete)

When we race, we take everything in the chase trucks but an engine and transmission... any whatever new part we break

 

[OGBeno]

At this point, Canguru Racing needs one of these Hino bivouac trucks like Toyota Auto Body to carry the spares. That would be the bees knees.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

At this Canguru Racing needs one of these Hino bivouac trucks like Toyota Auto Body to carry the spares. That would be the bees knees.

View attachment 1632165

That would be all time!

 

[Roy Park]

Hey Kurt, to switch to a different part...

The only 200 part I’ve personally seen fail was a few of the 8 alignment cam tabs sheared off. Granted that was in something worse than race conditions. So that has been the only thing that I’ve reinforced when I got mine.

Have you seen any of those fail from racing?

Does anyone make gussets for the cam tabs? Will the TC ones for the tundra work? What about a spindle gusset?

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Does anyone make gussets for the cam tabs? Will the TC ones for the tundra work? What about a spindle gusset?

Yes the TC tundra alignment tab gussets work on 200s. That’s what I weld to mine.

 

[bjowett]

A Hino 195 dual cab would be excellent. I watched a single cab with low miles go through the salvage auction for $8k... practically new.

At this Canguru Racing needs one of these Hino bivouac trucks like Toyota Auto Body to carry the spares. That would be the bees knees.

View attachment 1632165

 

[TexasTundra]

It's growing by the day it seems, I just lost a rear wheel bearing at 120k. Though that isn't something I think one could successfully repair without a press.

I planned to do some more side by side notes when we get the race car back at the shop for prep, that should be happening in the coming weeks.

As for my personal spares or things I'll be adding:

Serpentine Belt
Inner tie rod ends
L&R Outer tie Rod ends & hardware
LBJ
UBJ
F&R U-joints and driveline hardware
Fluids
Oil filter element
Plug & Coilpack
APPS
F&R wheel studs and nuts
F&R brake pads (can safe day in event of damaged caliper)
UCA, LCA and Track Bar hardware
Cheapy ABS sensors
I'll have to pop my boxes and think of others

Fwiw with the race car, we also carry all of the above (on the car) and:

Rear track bar, UCA and LCA
Throttle Body
ECU (mounted and a few minutes to swap)
Rear driveline (complete)

When we race, we take everything in the chase trucks but an engine and transmission... any whatever new part we break

Thanks, that's a great list to work from. What about fuses?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Thanks, that's a great list to work from. What about fuses?

That list is the 200 specific stuff, I carry an assortment of fuses, wire, connectors, hose, nuts/bolts, zip ties, duct tape, fluids, etc.

 

[TexasTundra]

That list is the 200 specific stuff, I carry an assortment of fuses, wire, connectors, hose, nuts/bolts, zip ties, duct tape, fluids, etc.

Thanks! Just trying to learn what I can.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Here is another interesting failure. During the Baja 1000 last year Nakaya and I were hauling a$$ to the finish line and we were aided by a sticky accelerator pedal. It wouldn't stick everytime but at an increasing rate would require us to pull it back with your foot. Total sketch fest and by the finish line it was quite nerve racking and we had nuetral on standby just in case.

The culprit is hardly surprising, silt. The apps was full of it. Not likely one we'll ever encountered on a 200 with windows

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Failed throttle body in the Canguro 200: (copied from here: Builds - Canguro Racing's Monica)

So about that failed throttle body unit. We are finishing up prep tonight for a race this Saturday and need to sort a spare. Our previous spare is now on the car. For giggles I drilled out the 6 rivets on the failed unit, as suspected... full of silt. All this despite having sealed the weep holes. There is not a gasket or sealant around the perimeter so that is likely the ingress point. The silt collects around the gear, motor and sensor and starts getting notchy to the point it starts going into limp mode. I may clean this one out thoroughly, test the motor and seal the cover/sensor much better. Perhaps a spare option?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Add motor mounts to the 100 vs 200 and more so 200 Series rare vehicle to daily driver discussion.

We've sold just a handful of motor mounts for the 100 Series in the last two decades and I think most if not all of those were getting engine replacements or a failed rear mount. Now on the 200, the Canguro race truck was breaking motor mounts often enough that we ditched the mounts all together and went solid. Yes solid front and rear motor/trams mount. One would never notice the difference in vibration on the race rig, I wouldn't do it however on a daily driver 200. Fast forward, when I suspected a failed motor mount on my personal 200, I wasn't exactly shocked. Fact is, nearly everything we replace on the Canguro truck after a season or two (or even every race), daily drivers need every ~100k. Wheel bearings, fan clutches, etc.... and now motor mounts

Failed motor mount thread: Failed motor mounts - URJ200 - Anyone had it happen?

My failed motor mount: