bloc
SILVER Star
Plenty of 13s and 14s with the radiator issue as well, unfortunately.
The things that fail and how they changed 100 vs. 200
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Plenty of 13s and 14s with the radiator issue as well, unfortunately.
Yeah, it did seem more prevalent on the earlier models, but you are right that 13s and 14s are having this problem with time and above the 90k range.
Mine looks good so far at 60k, and I'm keeping an eye on it. I did change the coolant around 35k - not sure if that is beneficial to preventing any issue in the long run, but felt that changing out a potentially corrosive factory fill couldn't hurt.
Mine looks good so far at 60k, and I'm keeping an eye on it. I did change the coolant around 35k - not sure if that is beneficial to preventing any issue in the long run, but felt that changing out a potentially corrosive factory fill couldn't hurt.
My 2015 had a new radiator installed 2017 around November which was the new model it was because of some broken fins caused by a minor accident hoping that gives me more longevity?
bloc
SILVER Star
The newer tank design with the more gradual curves -should- help prevent problems. Or at least that's the consensus based on how the older ones were failing. That sharp edge focuses the stress in one spot that will fail more quickly.
I wouldn't even think about it until 50k miles are on it.. and even then maybe every oil change. but none of the new design have enough miles or time on them to have failed, so if they are prone to problems we don't know about it yet.
Add motor mounts to the 100 vs 200 and more so 200 Series rare vehicle to daily driver discussion.
We've sold just a handful of motor mounts for the 100 Series in the last two decades and I think most if not all of those were getting engine replacements or a failed rear mount. Now on the 200, the Canguro race truck was breaking motor mounts often enough that we ditched the mounts all together and went solid. Yes solid front and rear motor/trams mount. One would never notice the difference in vibration on the race rig, I wouldn't do it however on a daily driver 200. Fast forward, when I suspected a failed motor mount on my personal 200, I wasn't exactly shocked. Fact is, nearly everything we replace on the Canguro truck after a season or two (or even every race), daily drivers need every ~100k. Wheel bearings, fan clutches, etc.... and now motor mounts
Failed motor mount thread: Failed motor mounts - URJ200 - Anyone had it happen?
My failed motor mount:
So are you saying a mall cruiser would need all these replacement parts within 100,000 miles? Only thing I have to deal with our speed bumps in the mall and I slow down to go over those. Plus Florida roads are smooth as glass and hardly ever gets to freezing in northern Florida. I do open up the battery every year and fill it back up with distilled water because it is hot down here
Markuson
SILVER Star
I’m convinced time more than miles.
My 2008 had the crack when it was about 7 years old...and well under 90k miles. The 13-14’s are hitting the time threshold so I’m thinkin they should be screwy before long.
Suck a silly thing...letting a label panel interrupt the strength of the curve be rendered weak...just so they can use a flat label stamp. Surely they could have kept the top curve strong and uninterrupted using a sticker or...anything but creating the weak point that is virtually ALWAYS the point of failure.
My 2008 had the crack when it was about 7 years old...and well under 90k miles. The 13-14’s are hitting the time threshold so I’m thinkin they should be screwy before long.
Suck a silly thing...letting a label panel interrupt the strength of the curve be rendered weak...just so they can use a flat label stamp. Surely they could have kept the top curve strong and uninterrupted using a sticker or...anything but creating the weak point that is virtually ALWAYS the point of failure.
bloc
SILVER Star
Thing is they’ve been putting flat spots for stamps on their radiator tanks for many years. Something must be different about these. Whether it’s the overall thickness of the core and the larger radius of the main tank not playing nicely with that size of label flat, or the material being thin in that spot..
- Thread starter
- #48
So are you saying a mall cruiser would need all these replacement parts within 100,000 miles? Only thing I have to deal with our speed bumps in the mall and I slow down to go over those. Plus Florida roads are smooth as glass and hardly ever gets to freezing in northern Florida. I do open up the battery every year and fill it back up with distilled water because it is hot down here
No, I don't equate the average Mud members 200 use the same as a mall-crawler. My personal 200 saw 85k of soccer mom use, zero off-road and decent service records. I lost a mount at ~130k. Based on my experiences with rear bearings, front unit hubs, tie-rod-ends, water pumps and radiators... we'Il see more of these failures.
I drive about 10,000 miles a year and I’m 70 now so I should have about 140,000 on mine when I turn 80 I’ll save a few dollars for those repairs. Thanks for your insight.
@cruiseroutfit I'm aware that the 200 has some advantages over your old 100...and some say the 80 has some advantages..but would you say that in your experience the 100 is the lowest maintenance/reliable/lowest cost of ownership of the three?
My 100 had a new power steering rack, new PS pump, new alternator, replaced rear A/C lines, new CV boots, and of course a timing belt job all before 100K miles. Along with whatever else that I can't remember right now. They are also more prone to body rust at the rear fenders and just about everywhere else (over time). So I'd say there's no way a 100 is cheaper to own. My 200 has 80K on it and all of these items are going strong.
Nope, sounds about right for a 100 series and parts that go 100-160k.
The cvs just leak so easily on the 100 series.
Wasn't wanting to start a high school debate over 80vs100vs200....was a legit question. They all will need certain parts at some point(usually 100k+) but Kurt has said a few times in this thread that it seems some of the 200 parts are being replaced sooner than he is used to seeing on the 80's and 100's. (See Kurt's build thread also) And he does sell a lot of parts for every series, so he should know. I think the 200 is great(hope to have one at some point.) Had an 80 and loved it too. Wish I had all three right now!
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I’ve had all three and all three are great we are really love the 80s series love the looks of it from the things that can go wrong standpoint on my 200 series I’ve never had over 40,000 miles on one yet so I’m not a good person but 100 series 150,000 miles + on it and other than a CV leaking which could’ve been caused by the lift that’s about all that went wrong Plus a new battery, and normal maintenance.
@m43fan, most of what you did at 100k, I did at 250k....but then again it looks like you are in Chicago...and everything seems to be falling apart there 
Another thing that I've liked(and I've noticed Kurt and many others have also shared) is that most things that break/need replacing seem to work well enough to get you to the shop, or longer. I kept putting fluid in my PS for about a year before I finally got it fixed. My Cv's threw grease for a while and still weren't clicking or popping when I replaced them. probably could have just redone the boots, but took the long view. My starter was finicky but never let me down driving it almost daily for a month before I fixed it. And on and on.
Another thing that I've liked(and I've noticed Kurt and many others have also shared) is that most things that break/need replacing seem to work well enough to get you to the shop, or longer. I kept putting fluid in my PS for about a year before I finally got it fixed. My Cv's threw grease for a while and still weren't clicking or popping when I replaced them. probably could have just redone the boots, but took the long view. My starter was finicky but never let me down driving it almost daily for a month before I fixed it. And on and on.
- Thread starter
- #58
Updates: I need to collect my thoughts and reconcile the things we've been replacing more and more on Monica (Canguro 200) as well as on 200/570's we support via parts shipped and/or parts sold/installed here in the shop.
One that immediately comes to mind if front wheel hub assemblies. We started stocking them for super high mile 200's, super PM forward owners and Monica prep/spares. Now they are selling quite regularly. While symptoms can often be play in the bearing particularly on Monica post-race with 37's, it's often just a 'whirring' or squeaky' noise on daily drivers. Larger tires will inevitably wear them faster, I've got no firm metric on how much faster
cruiserteq.com
We recommend the OEM for true replacement. For someone just hunting a spare to carry on the trail or split between some 200/570 pals, this is a great trail option:
cruiserteq.com
One that immediately comes to mind if front wheel hub assemblies. We started stocking them for super high mile 200's, super PM forward owners and Monica prep/spares. Now they are selling quite regularly. While symptoms can often be play in the bearing particularly on Monica post-race with 37's, it's often just a 'whirring' or squeaky' noise on daily drivers. Larger tires will inevitably wear them faster, I've got no firm metric on how much faster
Front Hub - OEM Toyota - Fits 200 Series (FAHUB200KITOEM)
Toyota Land Cruiser Front Axle Parts
cruiserteq.com
We recommend the OEM for true replacement. For someone just hunting a spare to carry on the trail or split between some 200/570 pals, this is a great trail option:
Wheel Hub Bearing Assembly - Fits URJ200/LX570 Front LH/RH Applications
Wheel Hub Bearing Assembley - Fits URJ200/LX570 Front LH/RH Applications
cruiserteq.com
Have you ever seen one of these catastrophically fail on a trail? Or is it more of a wear item that you should get plenty of warning on?Updates: I need to collect my thoughts and reconcile the things we've been replacing more and more on Monica (Canguro 200) as well as on 200/570's we support via parts shipped and/or parts sold/installed here in the shop.
One that immediately comes to mind if front wheel hub assemblies. We started stocking them for super high mile 200's, super PM forward owners and Monica prep/spares. Now they are selling quite regularly. While symptoms can often be play in the bearing particularly on Monica post-race with 37's, it's often just a 'whirring' or squeaky' noise on daily drivers. Larger tires will inevitably wear them faster, I've got no firm metric on how much faster
Front Hub - OEM Toyota - Fits 200 Series (FAHUB200KITOEM)
Toyota Land Cruiser Front Axle Parts
We recommend the OEM for true replacement. For someone just hunting a spare to carry on the trail or split between some 200/570 pals, this is a great trail option:
Wheel Hub Bearing Assembly - Fits URJ200/LX570 Front LH/RH Applications
Wheel Hub Bearing Assembley - Fits URJ200/LX570 Front LH/RH Applications
- Thread starter
- #60
Nothing catastrophic (like rear bearings on the 200/570 can do) BUT enough play that they will start wrecking other parts/brakes when the play gets bad enough. While play in bearings usually creeps up, these seem to go from tight to sloppy fairly progressively.
