The Sideyard '78. Tom's FJ40 story...........

[tls3601]

Maybe PO added the white resistor to run that crazy "nuclear reactor" Accel coil and Mallory CDI box? Wouldn't be the first time I found something that was missing/removed or added for no rational reason on this rig.....................

 

[tls3601]

Wondering if Danny @pngunme can check to see how his coil and wiring around coil is setup and if there is a white resisitor like mine in above pics or if wired right to coil?

 

[tls3601]

@65swb45 maybe Mark can chime in if he has a minute. Thanks all!

 

[algeeba]

My '78 did not come with a ballast resistor. Still running the original igniter, coil and distributor. Have replaced the distributor cap though.

 

[tls3601]

@algeeba thanks for that, I am now guessing the resistor shown in the electrical diagram is somewhere inline as @Tools R Us has mentioned. I also just recently replaced my cap and rotor as well FWIW.

 

[Tools R Us]

@algeeba thanks for that, I am now guessing the resistor shown in the electrical diagram is somewhere inline as @Tools R Us has mentioned. I also just recently replaced my cap and rotor as well FWIW.

With the key to run, what is the voltage at the incoming side of the ballast resistor? Should be a black w/ yellow stripe wire.

 

[tls3601]

@Tools R Us I can check that when I get home............., just make - wire to a ground when checking?

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Wondering if Danny @pngunme can check to see how his coil and wiring around coil is setup and if there is a white resisitor like mine in above pics or if wired right to coil?

I'm in Tahoe, Tom... won't be near 44 for quite a while.

I know I don't have the white resistor.

My harness includes the large pink yazuki (sp?) resistor wire.

 

[Tools R Us]

...
My harness includes the large pink yazuki (sp?) resistor wire.

So does his, confirmed by voltage check.

 

[tls3601]

Yes verified, my rig had one more resistor than she needed. Big thanks to @Tools R Us

 

[tls3601]

Well removed the non stock white resistor only to discover my newer battery was down to 11 volts and she would not crank over!! Bummer, on charger now. Last week did lots of cranking on her, may have knocked her down. Never a dull moment here..............

 

[Coolerman]

Just as a follow up: the OEM 1978 wiring harness contains a Yazaki Resistor Wire (Yazaki is the company that made the wire) This is a 10 ga PINK wire with a very specific resistance per foot. The length is calculated to equal exactly 1 ohm. It is spliced in the middle of the 10ga Black/Yellow wire that feeds the igniter/coil so you will not see it unless you un-tape the harness. It was used in place of the ballast resistor, and is shown on the schematic as simply a resistor. If you are running OEM 1978 ignition you need to use the 10ga Black/yellow wire to power the igniter/coil.

If you replace the OEM igniter/coil with something that does NOT require a ballast resistor (aftermarket (DUI) or the common large cap dizzy/igniter swap) you must NOT use the Black/yellow 10ga wire to power it! You will have to either un-tape the harness and replace the pink wire with 10ga Black/Yellow wire, or you must run an external wire from the key switch to the after market or large cap system in order to get the full battery voltage.

 

[tls3601]

@Coolerman thanks so much for mentioning that, wondering if having had the extra resistor in there effected my batteries voltage negatively; no pun intended. My plan is to keep it as stock as possible. Was at a mere 11 V last night and was hard starting with that extra resistor in the mix. Back to normal setup and charging up battery as I write this. Would like to have an extra coil and ignitor as a backup.............

 

[tls3601]

@Coolerman should a white and black wire from the starter also connect to the + terminal of the coil on my '78? Right now the only wire attached to + of coil is the yellow/black. She wont start but I may be getting no fuel to carb, will explore after work today. I can see the white/black wire that clips to starter coming off that area, running with harness inside I assume along the passenger side fender. Yellow wire branches off near/below coil mounting bracket, not sure if white/black wire is with it? Will pull off bracket after work to see what is under it. I believe that white/black wire gives extra juice than just the 6V from the yellow wire during cranking to help juice the coil more during starts? Is this correct? Help appreciated. Thanks again! My '78 wiring diagram does show a white/black wire also connecting to + terminal of cool. Could these two wires run together under/inside the igniter?

 

[tls3601]

I noticed @DSB345 '78 he just scored(California Gold) only has the yellow wire connected to + of coil, or that is how it looks in picture......................

 

[tls3601]

Opinions on this anyone?

 

[DSB345]

Yes, yellow to positive. More pics

 

[tls3601]

@DSB345 thanks again Dave. Getting 11V at + coil terminal during cranking, so connections seem good. Another big thanks to my friend Kevin @Tools R Us for helping me diagnose. No fuel smell at all and sight window looks empty so going to get into it today after work,

 

[tls3601]

So not getting fuel and missing some hardware at back of my carb that must have vibrated off. Very hard starting, gumout got her going today. Pics

 

[tls3601]

Also sent these pics to @FJ40Jim hopefully I can get her starting again the way she used to. Interesting is that after shutting her down I checked the sight window and it was empty!