The Resurection of 'The Beast' (1 Viewer)

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jrod770 said:
OK, I had the same situation. I was going from piece of junk alt that came with my f motor to a donor fj60 2f alt that jimc dug out of a pile as a result of headapalooza 2010. Anyhow, simple as this, unplug the external regulator, the one on the inner fenderwell, behind the headlight. Throw it away, leave it, whatever. On the pic of your 2f alt, the 2 prong version, take 1 wire from the connector closest to the middle of the alt and wire it to the pos side of your coil. Take the ground on the 2f alt and connect it to the old ground on the f alt. Simple as that. This is how jimc told me to do it and has worked fine since swapped.
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The first part is absolutely correct. Apply a switched 12V source (from the ig coil + terminal in this case) to the inner spade of the 2F alt.

And then I think Jrod meant to say "Take the old positive (charge) wire from the F alt and connect to the big post on the 2F alt".

The alts all ground through their mountings. whenever doing an alt swap, do be sure to wire brush the paint/corrosion off the bracket and alt ears to get maximum current transfer.
 
Thanks for clarifying that Jim - but I'm going with a cs130 to get more amps. For it I'm removing the stock VR and taping everything off. I'm running a 4 ga wire from the poss post to the primary battery's positive battery terminal - but I've ready conflicting posts from there. Some say to tape off the stock alt plug and some say to splice in a new plug for the cs130. Can I only run the single wire from the poss post to the primary battery terminal?

:cheers:
 
FJ40Jim said:
The first part is absolutely correct. Apply a switched 12V source (from the ig coil + terminal in this case) to the inner spade of the 2F alt.

And then I think Jrod meant to say "Take the old positive (charge) wire from the F alt and connect to the big post on the 2F alt".

The alts all ground through their mountings. whenever doing an alt swap, do be sure to wire brush the paint/corrosion off the bracket and alt ears to get maximum current transfer.
Click to expand...

Thanks Jim - I appreciate it. I aim to do this on my 40 when the VR or alternator give it up. I have a 60 series alt just waiting...
 
Got a little more work done this evening. Picked up a brand spankin' new cs130. It is rated at 105 amps but tested at 110 amps. Haveta hit 1250 rpms for it to start charging, similar to what some have said. Now you don't hit 110 amps til somewhere around 5000 rpm and I'll hopefully never see that, but it will still be better than my old stock amp.

I spent a bit more time on my rear platform. It's basically done.

Also worked on mounting a new toy which I'll have to post pics of later.
 
yooper said:
Could you put a smaller pulley on the alt to spin it a little faster?
Click to expand...

I think you could. I've read on MUD where at least one person did that.

I drove down to Mr. Alternator this morning. It was nice and cool (~74 deg F) which made the drive very pleasant. 'Bird' helped me get my cs130 alt hooked up. He found the 'switch' wire and used a spade connector to hook it up to the cs130 plug/pig tail. He did that so I could always go back to a stock alt if I wanted without any modification - I really liked having that option.

What I'm not so sure about is he left the stock voltage regulator hooked up even though the new alt has an internal regulator. He said it shouldn't matter and the stock VR is just acting as a 'pass through.' We unhooked the stock VR as a test and he said the battery wasn't receiving any charge. Everything I've read here has said to remove the stock VR. Whatcha think?

Another thing I'm not so sure about is he used the stock batt connector to the stud on the back of the new alt. Everything I've ready here has said to run a 4 ga cable from the batt stud on the back of the alt to the poss on the battery. He said it won't be a problem, even though the new alt puts out 110 amps and the old alt puts out 50 amps (on a good day 20 years ago). Whatcha think?

Last thing with the alt install is the ammeter in the stock gauge cluster is not disconnected. Installer said it was not needed, and it did not peg to + when the motor was running, rather stayed right in the middle.

My Nat'l Luna dual battery monitor had an 'excessive charge' alarm on the primary battery on the drive down with the stock alt, but did not on the way back. What did happen though both ways is the battery monitor showed the Nat'l Luna solenoid instead of splitting charge between the two batteries, it would put charge to the primary battery for most of the trip, only switching to a 'dual charge' mode once or twice. I'll look into that more...

Thanks guys.

:beer::beer::beer:
 
The wife and I took the Pig for a 4 hr test drive through the moutains today. She ran pretty well. The valves are pretty noisy so I'll try to get them adjusted soon.

The oil leak I had at the front of the oil pan/timing cover is back with a vengence. Looks like I'm gonna be pulling the pan, not happy.
 
recovering visors

If you haven't found somewhere to get your visors recovered yet, look for an automotive upholstery shop. There was an upholstery/conversion van shop outside KC (where I used to live). Every time I'd go in there to get something done expecting it to cost an arm & a leg & they were always super cheap & did great work.

I'd look for something high volume rather than high-end. A hot rod upholstery shop would probably be the exact opposite experience, LOL.
-Chaz
 
Should it really be this hard?

Glass place just called me - they haven't ordered the windshield gasket yet (I'm supposed to be going in on Friday) and they don't know if they will be able to get it in time. They originally couldn't source the gasket so I provided them a link - twice - months ago. I confirmed with them about a month ago that everything would be ready to go.

Glass place also said they talked to the auto upholstery shop and they didn't have a record of me coming in, even though I confirmed with them several weeks ago.

So now I'm stuck waiting - no need to call the upholstery shop if the glass place can't get the windshield gasket...

Shesh... :bang:
 
PabloCruise said:
Just order the glass gasket yourself and tell them to get the windshield.

Or find a new glass place...
Click to expand...

Windshield and gasket are free to be, covered by insurance, so I have to get a glass place to do the work...I don't want to mess with trying to get the insurance company to reimburse me and I don't know if the insurance company would even go for that.

Its frustrating when you have something like this planned for about a month out, call once to confirm and they say "good to go" and decide not to call again a few days ago b/c they already said they were "good to go" and now they aren't... o well.
 
Drumroll!!!!! Headliner and windshield install for Friday are canceled.

Glass place didn't order the windshield gasket in time - I canceled and am going to do it myself. This might just be fun.

Time to read up on rear glass installation. I'll try and get a glass shop to come out to the house for the windshield install but I'll do the headliner and rear cargo glass myself. I'll get started tonight!

Any tips?
 
Was able to work most of yesterday on the Pig. Got my axe mounted inside with QuickFists - I didn't want for it to be an easy theft target on the outside. Also adjusted my valves (2F is much quieter now - thanks Trollhole), checked the underside of the Pig for leaks and loose bolts - looks good there.

Mounted a 10lb CO2 tank on the inside and installed 3 marine-grade DC outlets near my fridge (still need to hook up two but they will have to wait). Checked out two belts I bought as spares from Advance Auto Parts and the geniuses gave me a wrong size even though I gave them the sizes I want written on a piece of paper (which I still have and does not match what they ordered for me) so I have to take those back. Also checked some spare radiator hoses I ordered from Napa and they fit - need one more piece though to go from the water pump down to the T-connector that spurs off to my oil cooler.

Also repacked most of my tools and spare parts to make some extra room during my trip next month to MI. I was able to exclude a few things (why the heck was a t-stat in my spare kit?) an I also made a packing list so I hopefully won't forget anything too important on this trip. Last year the wife and I went camping for several days in western NC along the Linville Gorge - well after I set up camp I realized something was missing - all my clothes!
BangHead.gif


The biggest thing I have left to do on my Pig before the MI trip is get the headliner and windshield installed. Hopefully I'll be able to line that up today.

Pics to come.
 
Well here is the latest in the headliner and windshield saga.

I located (thanks Trollhole) a mobile headliner business that will come to my house to replace the headliner, and they have a company they work with that will replace the windshield AND bill my insurance - so it sounds like it will work out. I'm waiting a call back from one of the two owners that does headliner install with bows...we will see!
 
She is coming together nicely!

Fixed a burnt out fog light yesterday - also cleaned up the interior a bit, sprayed some Fluid Film in the rockers and roof line (pre headliner install) - also packed up some more tools for my MI trip and ran by Advance (that was a CF) to pick up a spare radiator hose and some spare fuses.
 
Pig was dropped off yesterday for a new headliner and windshield. I hope to pick it up on Thurs or Fri.

Have some issues with my dual battery solenoid that I'm trying to work out. The solenoid doesn't want to connect the batteries but I think it is a two part problem - 1) low primary battery and 2) my idle rpms are a shade too low with the CS130 alt to get enough juice (13.1 v) to the batteries to trigger the solenoid. I'll check it out more when the truck is back home.

My fridge's compressor also didn't want to run in my FJC this weekend unless the truck was running. I'm hoping it was b/c my battery in the FJC was too low (the fridge - Edgestar - has a safety shut off that won't run the battery down past a certain point) but that is strange b/c I've had no other issues with the FJC's battery. The fridge runs fine with the FJC on, and appeared to run fine in the Pig. I'm going to test it plugged into AC (house line) tonight and then put it back in the Pig when I get her back from the upholstery shop.

I have about 1.5 weeks until we leave on an appx 2600 mile round trip. Here is roughly where we are going. Driving Directions from Seneca, South Carolina to Travelers Rest, South Carolina

:cheers:
 
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