One last thing before you take it to Mr. T. Try cycling the suspension by driving over an uneven surface for a few minutes so you get some back and forth motion on the drive shaft. Then check and see if its forced any grease out. Good luck.
The OFFICIAL clunk/thunk driveshaft thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Kigiin
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
That was actually next on my list to see if I've managed to get any grease in there. Now that I seem to have confirmed that it shouldn't be more than a few pumps, I'm thinking it has to be the fun despite the fact that it pushes some out when disconnected.
I'll report back (hopefully) with some good news tomorrow. If anyone has some other thoughts, or has had a similar situation turn out to be a shoddy grease gun, please chime in.
Thanks for the input SmoothLC.
I'll report back (hopefully) with some good news tomorrow. If anyone has some other thoughts, or has had a similar situation turn out to be a shoddy grease gun, please chime in.
Thanks for the input SmoothLC.
When I did my ds I pumped for a wile waiting for the grease to squeeze out past the seals but it never happened! I know I got enough in there because the clunk went away. I was to the point of thinking it was too much and didn't want to blow them seals up! The u-joints should be real quick and you will see grease coming out!
Well I think it ended up being a faulty gun because I went down and grabbed a new one and while it did take a fair bit of pumping, I did get grease coming out on both u-joints and the DS! Thanks for the reference points on amount of grease guys, the clunk is now gone and this will be part of the regular maintenance for sure!
Best thing ever. I used moly on the yokes and some regular old "non-moly" on the spider for my "thunk". Used to clunk when cold from reverse to first and from a stop to first. One block from my door at the intersection I braced for it and " ". So satisfying. Thank you all for the awesome thread and fix.
2001LC
SILVER Star
I removed, cleaned and add NGLI #1 synthetic w/moly grease. Made sure to mark all parts for reassemble in exact position as factory. Grease slip yokes while wheels on ground, so propeller shaft is not extended. If old grease passes out rubber seals, your good to go.
If all else fails; drill very small hole in back plate (zeak threads in back plate) this is what a Lexus mechanic total me they did. I didn't drill, but back plate bent under pressure and leaks grease a bit, same effect. Our seals are just very tight.
If all else fails; drill very small hole in back plate (zeak threads in back plate) this is what a Lexus mechanic total me they did. I didn't drill, but back plate bent under pressure and leaks grease a bit, same effect. Our seals are just very tight.
Last edited:
Dont put too much grease in the rear shaft zerk, I pumped a bunch in there expecting it to come out of the shaft but none came, it just forced the shaft to expand into the tc and rear diff. I drove it around the neighborhood and it had a really bad gear whine, I quickly took off that zerk and all that grease shot out like a cannon. Dont over do it! For some reason the front shaft took the grease and the excess came out the shaft so no issues there.
For fanatics and perfectionists:
Macnaught Flexigun Pistol Grease Gun from Australia
Mobil Mobilgrease XHP 222 Special
where the Flexigun is a first rate product from a First World country, and Mobilgrease is formulated for sliders; 222 stands for it's base oil kinematic viscosity at 40 C (it's quite high), as a lot of folks mistake NLGI grades for a viscosity derivative.
there are also Swiss grease guns, but we are not going there for now..
Macnaught Flexigun Pistol Grease Gun from Australia
Mobil Mobilgrease XHP 222 Special
where the Flexigun is a first rate product from a First World country, and Mobilgrease is formulated for sliders; 222 stands for it's base oil kinematic viscosity at 40 C (it's quite high), as a lot of folks mistake NLGI grades for a viscosity derivative.
there are also Swiss grease guns, but we are not going there for now..
Last edited:
3 pumps each zert every oil filter change.
I have lubed the U joints, prop shaft and and it didn't solve my clunk problem. I would say I am experiencing what you are.
Maybe this belongs in a different "clunk" thread- a drive line clunk related to lifting and applying throttle, which I dont believe is linked to prop shaft or U-joints. It doesn't clunk when I put it in gear, nor does it clunk while upshifting under acceleration. I sounds like its isolated in the drivers side front axle somewhere in the drive line between the diff and the rotor. As throttle lifted the and load comes off, its got a little clunk and as you reapply throttle its got a little clunk, and its got a little clunk as its down shifting from 2nd to 1st as I slowly approach a stop ( this might be normal).
I assumed either my Driver Side CV is worn somewhere or there is some major backlash in the dif. The tulips might be low on grease as well. They've been weeping a bit and there was a fair amount of build up of dried up grease & dirt I cleaned off. There is no driveline vibration though. There is no looseness in the wheel, or ball joints or control arms. I bought the truck in November, the wholesaler I got it from replaced the front rotors and pads the day before I picked it up, so the garage that did the work may not have done anything to FSM spec- like bearing repack, spindle greasing, correct torque of axle nut who knows. When the wheels are off the ground, there is some "slack" where the wheel will spin maybe 3/8-1/2" before the axle spins ( this slack might be normal). I intend on digging in to this weekend to inspect further. But any advice, direction would be helpful.
I'm not sure If i mentioned this in this thread - there isn't a single fix for this (Drive line thunk). Its several systems contributing. One of the major systems needing attention are the rear control arms. The bushings disintegrate / weaken / elongate.
This makes sense to me. In my mind there is no single "thunk" anyway. I'm sure it has been said, but 9 will get you 10 it's almost always a symptom of a combination of wear and slop and play. That said, anything that can be done to fight the symptoms should be done. And lube for DS is maintenance that is nearly always neglected anyway (including by me).
I cured the thunk finally in my 2000 after swapping the rear arms - the bushings were shot. I previously replaced front upper control arms, sway bar bushings etc. Each thing contributed to reducing the thunk. everything I did reduced it some... the last 60% if you will was the rear arms.
As a test I stopped lubing the drive shafts. After 9k miles I decided that it was good and lubed them again.
There is one other factor that doesn't get talked about much and that is actual wear and tolerance in the drive line. Gears wear and driveline lash contributes to the thunk - if the bushing systems are worn your gonna hear it.
As a test I stopped lubing the drive shafts. After 9k miles I decided that it was good and lubed them again.
There is one other factor that doesn't get talked about much and that is actual wear and tolerance in the drive line. Gears wear and driveline lash contributes to the thunk - if the bushing systems are worn your gonna hear it.
LXColorado
2008 Pacific Blue
After reading almost all clunk threads, I decided to give it a go! It was my first time greasing so I wasn't sure what to expect, but I felt prepared. I picked up NLGI#2, and some MOLY fortified #2. I forgot to pick up a second gun for the MOLY (I've read you can mix, I'm just OCD), so I ended up greasing spiders and slide yokes with good 'ol #2. All of the spiders did the crackle and pop, and grease started to flow like wine from the heavens, except for one spider on the rear of the TC :/ For the slide yokes, the rear went in nicely and after about 30 pumps the grease finally came past the seal. The front was a little less easy. I was about 30 pumps in and the grease started to flow past the seal, then the drive shaft started to extend again with more pumps. Except after the initial purge, the drive shaft would continue to extend and slowly creep back, and the grease ended up coming out near the spiders. I figure I'll let it sit overnight, maybe the new grease will slowly start oozing out. Any thoughts??
My 06' LX470 has 135k, and I'm fairly sure the yokes and spiders haven't been greased since the factory. I hardly saw any old grease get pushed out by the new. Glad to finally check that one off the never-ending list of maintenance items. Gonna start greasing every oil change now (5k).
My 06' LX470 has 135k, and I'm fairly sure the yokes and spiders haven't been greased since the factory. I hardly saw any old grease get pushed out by the new. Glad to finally check that one off the never-ending list of maintenance items. Gonna start greasing every oil change now (5k).
I have the same issue on my new to me 05 LX. I haven't started to look into it yet but I'm getting a pretty loud bang going from coasting to accelerating. I will report back when I get a chance to look.
Did u bend your trailing arms?
U joints fixed my clunk.
Bushings bad in the upper and lower control arms?
$1600. Tell him to get his head checked.
U joints fixed my clunk.
Bushings bad in the upper and lower control arms?
$1600. Tell him to get his head checked.
I joints and a whole lotta grease.
benc
Supporting Vendor
Sounds like worn splines on the cv and drive flange. The cv should move instantly when you rotate the wheel
