The OFFICIAL clunk/thunk driveshaft thread (5 Viewers)

[ap100]

So I greased up the zerks this past weekend. And then, of course, found this thread.

I've got the thunk. Prior to greasing, I had thunks letting go of the brake from a stop, occasionally when stepping on the gas from coasting, when transitioning from incline/decline such as my driveway, and a thunk when accelerating slowly thru a left hand turn over uneven road, such as turning left at a 4 way stop. Added what felt like gallons of M1 NLGI2 grease to each driveshaft until they were seeping (and the spiders).

Immediately after greasing, every thunk was gone and maybe it's a mental thing, but it felt like the drive was more solid. Later that day, the thunk while releasing brake at a stop returned. So far (knock on wood), that's the only one to have come back. So now, after reading this thread, I'd like to get moly into the driveshafts. Since my driveshafts are releasing grease as they should, it seems like if I wanted to pump in moly this weekend, I will be okay? Or is there any reason that I should wait? thanks and great thread here with tons of info

 

[2001LC]

No need if clunk gone.

Note: Heads up, N to D or N to R clunk is something different.

 

[ap100]

No need if clunk gone.

Note: Heads up, N to D or N to R clunk is something different.

Well, clunk is still present while stopped in drive and releasing the brake pedal. Never had clunk/thunk when shifting from N to D or R

 

[Brent Trudo]

I am having the same issue. It stops for a few days after greasing. Any suggestions?

 

[2001LC]

Lubing propeller shaft Risky (AKA Drive Shaft)

 

[eazyride]

hi all,

i've been noticing noise like clicky (small clunky) sound, when:
- put gear into D or R either from N or P (but not always)
- in drive around 30-80kmh, if i get on or off the gas abruptly. the noise even easily comes out by just little tapping on / off the gas. it almost feels like something loose.

no buzzing or vibrations when driving. The gears shift up/down smoothly, not jumpy no slipping. The car accelerates just fine.

i have looked under the car and checked the front and rear drive shafts. I found out there's freeplay or slack when twisting the shaft or rotating the wheels . I dont know if this is normal like that. i also asked some one to put into R or D and noticed the slack too, or should i say diff "backlash"?

i also checked all the u joints by turning, tugging up n down, they all feel tight, they all look in good conditions.

i had this car brought to 2 different workshops. First one greased all the u joints, slip yoke and spline and their best guess was the transfer case or differential. The second (toyota) said the u joints need to be replaced and together with that they also would readjust the backlash.

i've watched like more than 10 videos on youtube about this. I just think that the problem is the backlash.
the car rarely goes offroad and diff oil is changed regularly.

what do you guys say about this?

thanks

 

[2001LC]

N to D & N to R clunk is most often associated with axle hub flange and front drive shaft axle teeth being worn (backlash).
Front Axle Hub Flange backlash?

Some play throughout drivetrain is to be expected with high mileage.

 

[ap100]

Well, spent some time looking around under the car last night and noticed the rear lower control arm bushings are in poor shape. After some reading, sounds like these bushings can also be a contributor to thunks. Looks like something I need to do anyway and we'll see if it helps in this regard!

 

[93yotasr5]

So can the palladium grease be used in a pinch for the driveshaft? I have quite a bit left over from using it on my 80 series.

 

[ap100]

Since lubing with M1 a few weeks ago, just about every clunk returned. Decided to add more grease to the driveshafts and instead went with Sta-Lube Moly. Whereas the brake release clunk previously returned same day, the Moly has so far kept me 100% clunk free thru the weekend. So far so good and crossing my fingers. Thinking I'll add in a few pumps of Moly each weekend for the next few weeks

 

[2001LC]

Since lubing with M1 a few weeks ago, just about every clunk returned. Decided to add more grease to the driveshafts and instead went with Sta-Lube Moly. Whereas the brake release clunk previously returned same day, the Moly has so far kept me 100% clunk free thru the weekend. So far so good and crossing my fingers. Thinking I'll add in a few pumps of Moly each weekend for the next few weeks

Moly #2 is what the OM calls for. I keep a tube of #1 around for difficult cases.

This is from a 2007 OM:

 

[digitalmarker]

Well, time I had to join this epic thread that took me over an hour to read.

I too have a very pronounced clunk in my drive train. From what I can tell it's coming from the front driver side of the truck.

The clunk happens under either of these conditions - going between D, R and P, or while I am driving and letting off the throttle/getting back on it, or accelerate from standing start at normal rate, without feathering the throttle.

I took the truck to the dealer today for another issue, and had the tech inspect the drive train and grease the drive shafts/u-joints etc.

The clunk persists even after all joints were greased (evidence of the grease is splattered below the truck now so it was done), and the tech mentioned that there is a lot of play where the drive shaft goes into the front differential.

I took a video of this underneath the truck tonight. Those of you chasing the clunk issue and have been under the truck - is this amount of movement normal? The amount of movement when the truck is put in reverse seems like something is seriously loose.

Any advice/pointers here would be much appreciated.

 

[RobRed]

Normal.

The "thunk" isn't one thing (system). It's a combination of conditions. It becomes more pronounced as various things wear.

Even my 1996-80 series had, and my 2017-200 series have it (both purchased brand new). It wasn't / isn't terribly pronounced but it's there. I got my 100 back to new feeling by refurbing a number of systems. Rear upper/lower control arms fixed most of it. I think I posted that in here somewhere. But again if your thunk is bad its not going to be one thing to fix it.

 

[Greenbean]

Normal.

Rear upper/lower control arms fixed most of it.

Can I ask how or can you explain why those arms being replaced helped some...

I'm just having a hard time understanding that part.

 

[RobRed]

Can I ask how or can you explain why those arms being replaced helped some...

I'm just having a hard time understanding that part.

Somewhere in this thread I mention it - short answer is that the renewed bushings in the arms reduce the driveline movement.

 

[Greenbean]

Plan on it every other month.

I no longer have the clunk since I installed new suspension bushings all around. I can still feel the movement but it no longer thuds.

Sent from my iPad 2 using IH8MUD

Found it, lol...

So did you replace complete arms or R&R bushings with a press and such?

 

[RobRed]

Found it, lol...

So did you replace complete arms or R&R bushings with a press and such?

I installed a set of Metal Tech Rear upper and lower control arms (links). Same price as new OEM but much beefier.

 

[TurbineTester]

I have the drive line clunk which typically occurs as I'm slowing down but just prior to coming to a complete stop, or when at a dead stop when letting off the brake but before accelerating.

I plan on starting my trouble shooting with completely lubing everything as described extensively in this thread, before moving on to bushings, control arms, CVT etc. I'm due for an oil change, and typically get this done at the local Jiffy Lube/Precision Tune. If I give them specific instruction to use molybdenum grease #2 on the propeller shaft slide yoke "until it comes out the seal" how long will that take them with a pneumatic grease gun? Would you folks expect me to have any trouble putting it in drive after the oil change and lube, or to experience gear whine from the Transfer Case or Differential as a couple of folks have experienced?

Harbor freight has pneumatic grease guns for $20, if the consensus is that I should do this at home I never have a problem justifying another tool purchase

 

[Visceral]

I installed a set of Metal Tech Rear upper and lower control arms (links). Same price as new OEM but much beefier.

At this point, and after quite a bit of troubleshooting, I'm convinced that my rear upper control arm bushings are seriously contributing. MetalTech is local, so I'll see if they still have the upper and lower arms. Doesnt appear on their website.

 

[Visceral]

Harbor freight has pneumatic grease guns for $20, if the consensus is that I should do this at home I never have a problem justifying another tool purchase

A simple hand-pumped model from Amazon with a flexible nose is much easier to use. With a pneumatic, I'd have to swith on the compressor, run the line out to the truck, etc. The hand pump model is pretty easy and doesn't exactly tax muscles.