This is the first reply from someone who personally tore the entire truck apart and rebuilt it and is tapping out to fix the clunk.
I'm with you brother, to hell with the clunk...just drive the truck until it blows up.
The OFFICIAL clunk/thunk driveshaft thread (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter Kigiin
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
This is the first reply from someone who personally tore the entire truck apart and rebuilt it and is tapping out to fix the clunk.
I'm with you brother, to hell with the clunk...just drive the truck until it blows up.
Chase clunk forever if FDS axle to hub flange splines have play.
D-N-R and back
New FDS & Hub flange OEM
Excessive play in splines:
Front drive shaft to Hub Flange play clunk 00 Land Cruiser w 169K - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQxn8WAQcEA
Front Drive Shaft to hub flange play D to N, N to R clunk - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRZzXceG54Y
Check CV's of FDS for remarkable play.
Propeller shafts cluck thunk
Propeller shaft slide yoke cluck is while driving at ~30MPH, let off gas pedal and the press gas pedal again "Cluck" "Thuck". If you've lubed the slide yokes and spiders. Still getting clunk. Grab propeller shaft in one hand and yoke in other. If you twist and see/feel any play after it's been drive 2K miles since last lube, splines are warn. Lubing will help, but only for very short period, Clunk comes right back. Twist also can show play in spiders. Also coasting down hill at 60+ MPH listen for waw waw waw oscillating sound of spider bearings.
If FDS, Hub flange and propeller shaft, spider all good with no play. Front and Rear control arm all good. Diff bushing good. Stabilize bushing all good. Look for something loose:
Spare tire.
Shock, check and nut (top rear nuts are often left loose)
Muffler and exhaust pipe bracket.
Seats
etc.
If still can't find, ship to me...................... I've spider sense!
D-N-R and back
New FDS & Hub flange OEM
Excessive play in splines:
Front drive shaft to Hub Flange play clunk 00 Land Cruiser w 169K - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQxn8WAQcEA
Front Drive Shaft to hub flange play D to N, N to R clunk - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRZzXceG54Y
Check CV's of FDS for remarkable play.
Propeller shafts cluck thunk
Propeller shaft slide yoke cluck is while driving at ~30MPH, let off gas pedal and the press gas pedal again "Cluck" "Thuck". If you've lubed the slide yokes and spiders. Still getting clunk. Grab propeller shaft in one hand and yoke in other. If you twist and see/feel any play after it's been drive 2K miles since last lube, splines are warn. Lubing will help, but only for very short period, Clunk comes right back. Twist also can show play in spiders. Also coasting down hill at 60+ MPH listen for waw waw waw oscillating sound of spider bearings.
If FDS, Hub flange and propeller shaft, spider all good with no play. Front and Rear control arm all good. Diff bushing good. Stabilize bushing all good. Look for something loose:
Spare tire.
Shock, check and nut (top rear nuts are often left loose)
Muffler and exhaust pipe bracket.
Seats
etc.
If still can't find, ship to me...................... I've spider sense!
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2014
- Threads
- 94
- Messages
- 3,024
- Location
- Little Rock, Arkansas
- Website
- www.facebook.com
If you've replaced everything you could think of except for the "destroyed" front diff bushings, what makes you think that's not the root cause?
He said he replaced 1 worn out CV and both hub flanges and the other CV sounds like it passed inspection
I suspect since he had his vehicle completely torn down he is able to figure out if his front diff bushing need replacement. There are numerous reports on this forum of replacing those bushings with no real difference except " I think it feels better but still clunking "
i did almost as much as you:
-replaced both front CV axles and checked hub flanges
-replaced all three dif bushings
-new upper and lower control arms
-took out and rebuilt the transfer case (was totally fine didnt need to be rebuilt). dang it!!
-new U joint on rear drive shaft
Turns out that the shop who replaced my CV's put in s***ty ones that were worse then the worn out ones. When I had a better shop go through it they saw they had excessive play and replaced with OEM CV's. This helped a lot! There is still some slack in the driveline but it seems like its impossible to get it as tight at a new car. When I drive it normally (not trying to make it clunk by letting off gas and hitting it hard again) its pretty dang good. There is still a small little clunk but its barley noticeable and I would say is about 70% less than what it was. I just road in my friends 2006 with 180K and his clunk was worse than mine was before I went crazy trying to replace everything and he doesn't even notice it which also made me feel better.
So I would say make sure you are replacing everything with factory OEM only as there can be more play in aftermarket parts than worn out oem ones.
No, no, I replaced the front diff bushes.
I hate the idea of taking anything apart in the near future, but might put the spare CV at some point this summer as it is the only one drivetrain item I can think of that I haven't replaced or rebuilt. Will try the chalk mark trick and take a video to see if and how much it moves.
I hate the idea of taking anything apart in the near future, but might put the spare CV at some point this summer as it is the only one drivetrain item I can think of that I haven't replaced or rebuilt. Will try the chalk mark trick and take a video to see if and how much it moves.
I chased the clunk for years. For years it slowly got better the more of the common clunk parts I replaced.
The last of the clunks I chased turned out to be the slip joint in the rear driveshaft. I do not think either driveshaft was ever greased by Toyota or the PO (original owner). I replaced the rear driveshaft and that clunk went away.
The last of the clunks I chased turned out to be the slip joint in the rear driveshaft. I do not think either driveshaft was ever greased by Toyota or the PO (original owner). I replaced the rear driveshaft and that clunk went away.
Rear drive shaft... That’s the one thing I saw that @Moridinbg hasn’t replaced yet. 
is that accurate?
is that accurate?
I would imagine if you pulled a driveshaft out, seperated, degreased the slip yoke, reinsert, and twist. If there is backlash/slop its worth replacing. But i dont know how much slop there is brand new if any
merbesfield
SILVER Star
Geez, after reading this I guess I will force myself to live w it. Seems like it should be such an identifiable thing. It is so distinct. Maddening for sure.
The problem is there is so many places for wear to occur and create backlash and add all of those together and you get big clunk. I personally think anyone replacing cv’s and not replacing hub glanges (all toyota) you are completely wasting time and money. Same for vice versa. Diff bushings and drive shaft overhaul are also major offenders i feel
My guess is there is some play in the diffs + some play in the transfer case and little to no way to eliminate those. You can minimize buy refreshing all other parts (I have, literally everything else) but not much can be done with the transfer case obviously.
My most annoying clunk is coming from the rear end, after I accelerate from a stop. It doesn't happen on the acceleration itself, but whenever the back end of the truck goes over its first bump / elevation change after taking off from a stop. Once I stop, the truck settles, and I take off again, it repeats the clunk when the rear end goes over a bump. It only happens once between each take off. So strange.
Rear upper and lower control arms are less than a year old. Globes are less than a year old.
Rear upper and lower control arms are less than a year old. Globes are less than a year old.
thanks for the suggestion. would the remedy be to tighten it or adjust it? Or do I need a different one because I did about a .75 inch AHC lift?
Sounds like something sticking and/or settling/shifting when you hit the first bump. If the bushings are original on the antisway bar, prob a good a idea to replace
Rear sway bar bushings are original, I’ll replace those. Thanks for the suggestion.
I had a shop do rear control arms, and they mentioned to me that one of my rear AHC shocks was leaking. I assumed it was seeping a little because that’s when I still had original globes / high pressure. I don’t notice any AHC fluid leaving the reservoir, nor do I see an active leak on the shock.
Part of me wonders if my rear springs aren't attached correctly or the small bushings where AHC shocks attach are shot.
Rear control arms are OEM and new, seem to be tightened on well.
Last edited:
delete
Last edited:
