my bad I meant 20THeaded to use a 30T. We shall see.
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my bad I meant 20THeaded to use a 30T. We shall see.
Hole saw the rubber, cut the thin outer metal that remains with a hacksaw (or whatever) and it will basically fall out. As you saw, pressing in the new stuff is easy.All done. 5 hours to do a 2 hour job thanks to me not having the correct tools for the job. The ribs were good though….
it’s much better when you get the castor right didn’t see the point in not sending them to youAll done. 5 hours to do a 2 hour job thanks to me not having the correct tools for the job. The ribs were good though….
I’m sitting at 2* positive caster now though. That’s good. I did not measure it before but it had to have been into the negatives the way it was darting around.
The 2.5” correction bushings are rubber not poly as are the OME so hopefully they will last a long time.
Thanks again @Ozark cruiser for ordering these when you sent me the 1” spring packers. You knew what I’d need.
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I went to pick up my flea bitten hound from
the groomer and the AC was just not keeping up with the MS heatwave.
I went and got some DIY juice and sure enough it only had 8psi.
I’ve never really messed with this stuff but the directions say 25-50 psi is normal. I could get the can to read 25# and it’s cooling now but I can’t get it to take any more pressure. Any tips on this? If it’s leaking I’m at the bottom end of the spectrum at 25. Not sure if it will even take more.
Thoughts?
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Also I deep cleaned the oLe 3FE. This motor is truly amazing in front of the H150 with all the spaghetti gone and the 9:1 Mosley head
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Replace the Schrader valves if it's a slow leak. From there sniff check the hoses.Took more than a year to leak down. They had charged it up before I bought it so that was April/May 2020.
I’ll take it to a shop and have it charged correctly and see how long it lasts. I don’t feel up to replacing all that stuff right now.
Yea. 87 is fineSorry if this has been covered and I missed it, but can you run regular/87 octane with the 9:1 head?
Finishing an H150F swap on my FJ80 this week and can’t wait to feel the results.
If a shop re-charges it they should add dye to the system. Most shops will re-check for leaks using UV light and/or a Sniffer for free. We tell folks to drive it for a week or two and then bring it in. When it takes a long time to leak down often the dye residue will be washed away or else splattered everywhere. Finding fresh dye within a week or two can help identify the problem and you don't waste as much of the R134.Took more than a year to leak down. They had charged it up before I bought it so that was April/May 2020.
I’ll take it to a shop and have it charged correctly and see how long it lasts. I don’t feel up to replacing all that stuff right now.
I feel for you. Tomorrow is a going to be the hottest day of the year to date in SC & I'm using the FJ60 to set up deer stands in the swamp and the mosquitoes & Deer Flies are going to be murder! I'll be hooking up the 60 to the HVAC machine to make sure it's fully charged.Taking it in Saturday for a real charge. I’ll pay attention this time. Need my Saudi truck where it can keep up with the hell that is Mississippi right now.
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I feel for you. Tomorrow is a going to be the hottest day of the year to date in SC & I'm using the FJ60 to set up deer stands in the swamp and the mosquitoes & Deer Flies are going to be murder! I'll be hooking up the 60 to the HVAC machine to make sure it's fully charged.