Builds "The Milk Truck" FJ45 Preservation Sorta (6 Viewers)

[Tank5]

There was some rust under the driver side rocker that I had to cut out and replace. I am not planning to paint the exterior of the 45, so this is how I went about preserving the patina while making the repair.

I cut the rusty section out and blasted the inside of the rocker panel as best I could then treated it with some weld though primer. I got to work and didn’t take pictures of that part.

I placed a couple layers of painters tape on the exterior of the rocker. Then measured and marked out where the spot welds should go to secure the replacement panel. The stock panel I removed had spot welds every 2 inches, so I matched that.

Then I used a small 1/2 inch air power belt sander to sand through tape to bare metal just big enough to allow the spot welder to make clean contact to work. The tape was good for helping to reduce the size of the area I ground down allowing me to preserve as much patina as possible.

After the piece was welded in I cleaned the spot welds with the same belt sander and sprayed the spots with primer. Having the tape all ready in place insured I was only spraying the area that was ground down, so the repaint is minimal.

 

[Tank5]

I am just about done with the repairs to floor. I set the transmission cover in and drilled the mounting holes for it. I bolted it down and the floor and firewall fit are pretty tight, with a gasket between the flange I don’t expect any open gaps for heat to come through. I will eventually spot weld capture nuts for all the mounting flange bolts but I need to rebuild the floor support first to work through any overlap with the mounting holes.

This transmission cover was a lot of work and I am still not done with it. I have to mount the auto shifter and transfer case shifter still. I have a cool idea for the shifter console if I can make it work. It will be a little while before I get to that.

 

[Robs76fj40]

Fantastic work!!! You keep inspiring me to keep going on my build!

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Nicely done Dennis! Love the thought behind the work. I appreciate your creativity and willingness to share. Many great things.

 

[Tank5]

I started mocking up the floor pan support. The original crossmember had been hacked by a prior owner and I had to remove what was left to repair the floor. I went searching for something similar and found this hat channel at military truck site. It is shorter than the stock channel which I hope will give me more clearance on the underside for my exhaust and heat shield.

Hopefully I will get all the capture nuts spot welded on this weekend, so I can finish the support and be done with the floor.

 

[4Cruisers]

I need to find something similar for my '71 FJ40 build. My replacement tub's rear crossmember needs to be replaced, along with a small section of the floor. Thanks for the info.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Google and found.. Thank you for the idea.. Time saver.

Hat channel 48 | Mill Supply, Inc.

Hat channel 48 available at low prices! We have a huge selection of high quality rust repair and auto body panels including rockers, cab corners, wheel arches, fenders, and more! Get your $title today! Most orders shipped same day!

www.millsupply.com

 

[Tank5]

Google and found.. Thank you for the idea.. Time saver.

Hat channel 48 | Mill Supply, Inc.

Hat channel 48 available at low prices! We have a huge selection of high quality rust repair and auto body panels including rockers, cab corners, wheel arches, fenders, and more! Get your $title today! Most orders shipped same day!

www.millsupply.com

Perfect! Thanks for posting that up. I am trying to use this thread to help me remember what I used to build this as well share with the community.

 

[EWheeler]

I need to find something similar for my '71 FJ40 build. My replacement tub's rear crossmember needs to be replaced, along with a small section of the floor. Thanks for the info.

If you're just needing to stay OEMish, here is what you need I think.

Real Steel Cruiser Parts

Real Steel Cruiser Parts

www.realsteelcruiserparts.net

@Tank5 Great work on the floor support!

 

[4Cruisers]

If you're just needing to stay OEMish, here is what you need I think.

Real Steel Cruiser Parts

Real Steel Cruiser Parts

www.realsteelcruiserparts.net

@Tank5 Great work on the floor support!

I bought the two rear wheel supports from them already, primarily for the reinforcement for the '77 roll bar.

 

[Tank5]

The capture nuts and floor support are welded up and in. I sprayed weld through primer on all the mounting surfaces and underside of the support to provide some protection before I closed it up. I had to break out the long stem for the welder to get all the way across the cab. Everything lines up still, so I am happy with it.

 

[4Cruisers]

Thanks for the tip on the weld through primer.

 

[cruisermatt]

awesome find on that channel.

 

[Tank5]

I filled some more holes in the tub and cleaned up some of the spot welds. I found that some of the capture nut and floor support spot welds created some depressions where the fork touched on the back side. I decided to fill them with the mig welder. Most of the spot welds turned out just fine, I figure this is result of my learning to use that machine. I feel confident all the welds are plenty strong.

I don’t see too many people using flat steel to build their seat mounts but this frame came in the original 45 when I bought it, it is made of 3/8 x 2 inch flat steel. I had to reposition the two front feet and add the fifth center foot. It is very solid, I stood and bounced on it a bit and it deflects very little. I repurposed some energy suspension body mounts but built a larger mount plate for the center foot to bolt it down. I will weld each mount plate to the floor, so I can easily remove the seat frame by myself. In the future I will have to pull the seats to remove the transmission cover and I want to try and make that as painless as possible.

Edit: after thinking about it will probably go back and add a gusset to each corner leg on the seat frame. That is after I mount the seat slides to make sure the gussets won’t interfere with the mounting locations.

 

[changingground]

I filled some more holes in the tub and cleaned up some of the spot welds. I found that some of the capture nut and floor support spot welds created some depressions where the fork touched on the back side. I decided to fill them with the mig welder. Most of the spot welds turned out just fine, I figure this is result of my learning to use that machine. I feel confident all the welds are plenty strong.

I don’t see too many people using flat steel to build their seat mounts but this frame came in the original 45 when I bought it. I had to reposition the two front feet and add the fifth center foot. It is very solid, I stood and bounced on it a bit and it deflects very little. I repurposed some energy suspension body mounts as well but built a larger mount plate for the center foot. I will weld each mount plate to the floor, so I can easily remove the seat frame by myself. In the future I will have to pull the seats to remove the transmission cover and I want to try and make that as painless as possible.

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That looks great. Keeping us fabrication plonkers well educated. Thanks.

 

[Tank5]

Most of the jack extension and hand crank holders behind the seat were broken, so I removed them. I left this one since it was functional and holds a flashlight firmly. There is not a lot of storage in the cab, it makes sense to use what I have.

 

[Vossie]

awesome build, followed it here from @2fpower 's Vera build and glad I did. So much of what you guys are doing is helping me figure stuff out on my own build. I like your seat rails, was thinking something similar but wasnt sure ow strong they would be, now I know should be fine!

I didnt catch it earlier on when reading through, which transmission did you go with? the 4 or 5 speed auto? what's your plan for the shifter location on the trans hump?

 

[Tank5]

awesome build, followed it here from @2fpower 's Vera build and glad I did. So much of what you guys are doing is helping me figure stuff out on my own build. I like your seat rails, was thinking something similar but wasnt sure ow strong they would be, now I know should be fine!

I didnt catch it earlier on when reading through, which transmission did you go with? the 4 or 5 speed auto? what's your plan for the shifter location on the trans hump?

Thanks for the kind words.

I am going with the a750f 5 speed from a 100 series. I am planning to build a small shifter console to mount the shifter to the transmission cover but I am waiting until the seats are in to confirm the position of it. The tcase shifter could come though the hole already in the cover but I might move it forward too.

 

[Vandal FJ]

I filled some more holes in the tub and cleaned up some of the spot welds. I found that some of the capture nut and floor support spot welds created some depressions where the fork touched on the back side. I decided to fill them with the mig welder. Most of the spot welds turned out just fine, I figure this is result of my learning to use that machine. I feel confident all the welds are plenty strong.

I don’t see too many people using flat steel to build their seat mounts but this frame came in the original 45 when I bought it, it is made of 3/8 x 2 inch flat steel. I had to reposition the two front feet and add the fifth center foot. It is very solid, I stood and bounced on it a bit and it deflects very little. I repurposed some energy suspension body mounts but built a larger mount plate for the center foot to bolt it down. I will weld each mount plate to the floor, so I can easily remove the seat frame by myself. In the future I will have to pull the seats to remove the transmission cover and I want to try and make that as painless as possible.

View attachment 2888975

View attachment 2888978

I am thinking of trying to find or build something very similar!

 

[Vossie]

Thanks for the kind words.

I am going with the a750f 5 speed from a 100 series. I am planning to build a small shifter console to mount the shifter to the transmission cover but I am waiting until the seats are in to confirm the position of it. The tcase shifter could come though the hole already in the cover but I might move it forward too.

ok cool. I'm personally sticking with the a650e that came in my LS400 and making an adapter for the tcase. keeps the wiring simpler. is the 100 series a750 going to talk nicely with the harness you have? I find the wiring is some of the most tedious, time consuming and frustrating aspects of any build so I try and keep it as simple as possible.