Builds The Journey Begins... (1 Viewer)

[longbow]

The only difference is that the auto engines have a long bushing pressed into the back of the crank to center the torque converter, where the manual engines have a pilot bearing. I don't know which if either of these the adapter that Dustin (69Rambler) is making uses, but I would get his kit if you are going to go with an H55. The Downey bell housing idea would only work if you could find an Isuzu Diesel swapper kit as well as a manual flywheel for the 4BD1T and both would be very difficult to find these days because the kits are no longer available and the demand for the manual flywheels makes them very hard to find. Dustin's kit eliminates the need for the dual flywheel system and is a much better design in my opinion.

Don

 

[69rambler]

The only difference is that the auto engines have a long bushing pressed into the back of the crank to center the torque converter, where the manual engines have a pilot bearing. I don't know which if either of these the adapter that Justin (69Rambler) is making uses, but I would get his kit if you are going to go with an H55. The Downey bell housing idea would only work if you could find an Isuzu Diesel swapper kit as well as a manual flywheel for the 4BD1T and both would be very difficult to find these days because the kits are no longer available and the demand for the manual flywheels makes them very hard to find. Justin's kit eliminates the need for the dual flywheel system and is a much better design in my opinion.

Don

Thanks for the good words Don. Your's and others input has had a big influence on the kits we make and how they're made.

We started making Isuzu kits when a local inquired about machining a stickshift 4BD1T flywheel from scratch as he couldn't find one to use with the IDS kit he purchased. I offered to design new parts to use either Isuzu flywheel so he sold the IDS kit and used our economy GM adapter kit. We still make these, though the new adapters have a lot of advantages over the first style.

The new adapters currently offered for the Isuzu's are machined from thick aluminum plate and include a flywheel or flywheel and flexplate for auto versions. Everything gets removed from the rear of your engine and the new kit comes with everything to connect your transmission. There are some built in features like tachometer drive ports included with the primary advantage to the new style adapters being their compact size- Not just thickness, but starter placement and room around the bellhousing fits inline with what the original engine would offer.

There's a few good threads on 4BTswaps in the Isuzu section where all the available adapters are discussed.

Thanks,

Dustin (with a D )

 

[doug720]

I agree with Don and Justin on the adapters. Dustin's adapter are way better than the multi flywheel's and related parts. The fewer the parts, the better the end result.

One possible issue I have is how the new adapter/engine clears the firewall in a 60/62. It may not be an issue, but the IDS ring helped my swap clear the firewall, heater control and allowed my modified 4BD2 intake pipe to clear all the above areas and parts. This may not be an issue, as I have not seen an install yet of the new kits. Maybe Dustin will post on this.

Even if a few mods are required to clear the above item's, I would use 69ramblers adapter and a NV4500HD.

Doug

 

[longbow]

Dustin,

Sorry about the spelling error. I hope that you will start to get a bunch of business from the Land Cruiser community. I think that this engine is one of the best options for swaps into a Land Cruiser and it is nice to see someone put up the R&D work to develop these adapters.

Doug,

That would definitely be an issue if you wanted to use the factory transmission crossmember in its original position and retain factory length driveshafts. I did it that way with my first set up with the H55 but if I did it again, I would prefer to slide things a little further forward for some more firewall clearance as mine is pretty tight up against it due to my larger turbo.

That is a good point though as it will add some extra work to this conversion.

Don

 

[doug720]

These are the best shots of the bell housing and adapter ring. I don't have the measurement of the bell/trans face to the stock Isuzu sub fly wheel housing, but the ring thickness is the only change. I think the ring is 1.25" thick. Measure your stock set up and see the difference. Dustin's set up will be shorter than mine with IDS ring, I think his is the same as stock? Maybe contact him on this.

My free float turbo clears the brake booster with no issues. I recently picked up a 1996 4BD2 with a waste gated turbo. I getting ready to build a new engine and add the waste gated turbo. The new turbo waste gate may take some modifying to clear the booster. Nothing too major...I hope?

Hope this helps.

Doug

 

[allworknoplay]

Doug....first of all thanks for documenting your build. Yours and several others are invaluable to me while in my pre-plan stage. It seems pretty well accepted that your 3" lift is the minimum for this motor. I have a finely tuned race inspired custom suspension....also read "add-a-leafs" ....and would like to have an idea about how close I am to fitting. These are from a Ford Super Duty so I think they put me a little higher than your average ones. Would you mind giving us the measurement you have from the top of your front axle to the underside of the frame? I'll put on a new suspension some day, but I like what I have and would rather throw that money at a 4bd1/2 first.

Thanks in advance. I apologize if you have addressed this before and I missed it.

Nick

 

[doug720]

Nick,

I don't think I ever took the any measurements of what you need, so I will get a measurement tomorrow for you.

There are a few pictures of the oil pan to diff measurements if that helps.

While you get ready to do the swap, make sure you read Dazed swap thread. He is using Allmars Machine's new style adapter kit and it changes the motor position to be closer to the firewall than mine and most of the earlier swaps using the IDS kit. He has had a few issues that I did not have, one being the turbo to booster clearance, but he has a different turbo also.


Doug

 

[allworknoplay]

Thanks Doug, I really appreciate it. I've been trying to grasp as much as I can from everyone's build. Without you guys pioneering the FJ60 ala 4bd swap and documenting it so well, there's no way I would even consider trying.

 

[doug720]

Nick,

I measured my 60's drivers side front while sitting on fairly level ground:

Top of axle to bottom of frame at bump stop mount point - 8.25"

Top of Axle to bottom of stock rubber bump stop - 4.75"


These are with OME shackles and 3" light spring kit with an added leaf in the pack to make them mediums.

Hope this helps and let me know if you need more info.

Doug

 

[allworknoplay]

You are great Doug! I'm heading out to take some measurements now. I put that OME kit on my last 60 and loved it. That's the route I'm heading in the long run with this truck too.

Thanks for taking the time to help me out.

Nick

 

[doug720]

A little update.

I changed out the stock free floater turbo that came on my engine to a waste gated model from a later 4BD2. Staying with a stock turbo kept all the oil, water and intake connections the same, only the exhaust down pipe and flex joint needed to be replaced.

I only have a few miles on it, but boost is higher, egt's are lower and the power at lower rpms is better.

I used a adjustable waste gate controller and will be playing with boost pressures.

Doug

 

[Wheelingnoob]

That should help response a bit, probably increase your economy a bit too.

 

[Dougal]

A little update.

I changed out the stock free floater turbo that came on my engine to a waste gated model from a later 4BD2. Staying with a stock turbo kept all the oil, water and intake connections the same, only the exhaust down pipe and flex joint needed to be replaced.

I only have a few miles on it, but boost is higher, egt's are lower and the power at lower rpms is better.

I used a adjustable waste gate controller and will be playing with boost pressures.

Doug

Good to hear it's on and working.
To get the best result for higher boost you'll need to ditch the wastegate controller and cut/thread the arm for adjustability. This lets you increase the preload which prevents it blowing open from within as soon.

With a wastegate controller you'll only have a limited range for boost increase.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Edit: Found what I was looking for thanks.

 

[doug720]

For the waste gate, I installed a TurboSmart boost manual controller. My understanding is that it controls the boost pressure going to the waste gate actuator and the pressure is adjusted by a knob with a spring and ball seal. I have not had much driving time to adjust it yet, but am hoping to see 14+ pounds pf boost.

I preloaded the waste gate actuator as I had to make a custom link and mount for it. It is a stock unit that opens around 7 psi, which I saw when I drove it before installing the manual controller.

For the radiator hoses, the stock 2f top hose was near perfect, and only needed to be shortened about 2 inches. But I set up my radiator to be the same distance from the fan and water pump as the 2f was.

On the lower hose, I took the stock Isuzu lower hose and made a mock up of what I wanted and went to NAPA. They allowed me to go through their hoses to find the right ones. I kept the stock Isuzu turbo supply T and found the correct reducer to the pump and the hose with the needed bends and length to the lower spigot. I had moved the radiators lower hose spigot about 2 inches toward center to clear the power steering hoses and have a clear shot to the water pump above.

Doug

 

[doug720]

A update on the new turbo.

The pictures don't show it, but I added a manual boost controller to raise the maximum boost above the 7 psi of the stock waste gate actuator. I adjusted the controller nearly all the way to max boost and am seeing around 14+ of boost! Not bad for a T25.

I have driven a few hundred miles and am quite happy with the performance. I adjusted the max fuel screw by half a turn which really helped. My max EGT's are around 1150 under a good load, but are only 850 - 900 at 70 mph at 5-7 of boost pressure.

Low RPM power is much improved and acceleration is also much better, and as bonus I get a nice turbo whistle too!

For me, this has worked out well. I kept all the stock Isuzu oiling and water systems for the turbo, and only had to have a new down pipe made.

Doug

 

[longbow]

Hey, those are some great numbers Doug!

It's always better to have more power, especially with those EGT numbers. Some nice whistle just makes you smile and others ask you what's in that thing at the gas station.

Now it will be like having a new toy all over again!

Have fun!

Don

 

[Dougal]

Hey Doug, do you know what size compressor is in that new turbo? Some appear to be 51.3mm, others 54mm.

I have gone back to my 51.3mm T25 with a 22psi wastegate actuator and running 20-21psi. No intercooler and an even tighter exhaust housing than you have.

The little (51.3mm compresso) T25's can cover these engines requirements at 20psi with no intercooler. With an excellent intercooler about 16psi is their max flow.
However, if you have the 54mm wheel, then 20psi intercooled to the rev limiter should be within reach.

 

[doug720]

20psi with the 54 mm T25 and intercooler! I did not expect those numbers and thought 14 was good?

I am using the stock Isuzu intercooler, which appears to be a good unit. The IC is the smaller one that came with free floater turbo engine, I have the IC that came with the later model engine that is almost twice as large. I may try to mount the bigger IC soon.

As far wheel size, I did not measure it, as I thought they were all 54mm. I will call the turbo shop and see if they have have the old wheel to measure.

I am using a manual waster gate controller between the turbo and the actuator. The boost setting on it is wide open, I wonder if the spring rating is too low, allowing the actuator to open at 14psi? I am going to wire the actuator closed and give it a run to see if the controller is limiting the boost, or something else.

What do you guys think is a safe egt to run on a regular bases? I have always tried to limit egt's to 900-1000f for regular driving, climbing to 1100f with short periods of 12-1250f. Currently, the max egt reading has been 1200f. Maybe more fuel to make more boost?

Another test I will try is to remove the air filter lid and element to see of air flow is restricted. I have the Toyota big canister housing, paper element being fed from a snorkel. I have the stock Isuzu air filter restriction gauge, and it stays in the green, but maybe the turbo fools it?

I will let you know what I find.

Doug

 

[doug720]

I measured my original compressor wheel and it was 54mm, actually -53.9mm?

I am going to lock the actuator closed and do a test run to see what max boost is without the waste gate.

Doug