Builds The Journey Begins... (1 Viewer)

[doug720]

Forum Lifer



Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Kiwiland
Posts: 3,307


Quote:
Originally Posted by davegonz
Here I though that the AC amplifier increased the RPMs when the AC clutch engages. So you're saying it's only a control board for over pressure and temperature switches?

In most AC systems it's just a thermostat to stop icing up of the evaporator. Not even a pressure switch (that is seperate and usually on the filter/drier tank).

Any idle-up system is usually connected to the compressor control circuit. So it only idles up when the compressor is clutched in. How is the idle increased on the toyota diesels? Is there a vacuum actuator somewhere?

Doug, I would stick your multimeter across the pressure switch (if it has one on the filter/drier tank) and then the amplifier outlets to see how they are behaving. This can at least rule out one of them.

If the worst comes to the worst, simplify the system and bypass the stuff you don't need.
AC on/off button (you've already got), fan interlock, thermostat amp and pressure switch. My Isuzu engine doesn't idle-up with AC and it's never bothered me. I don't think my diesel work car does either (but it's out at the moment).

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VOODOO Engineering: Doing it first time with one clay doll, not four times with two.

 

[doug720]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/members/davegonz.html
Keeping it Weird





Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 4,039
Garage


Good info Dougal. My 4BT set up is the same as your Isuzu. No idle up. I just have the idle adjust a little higher to compensate for the AC being on. In Texas, that's 90% of the time

I seem to remember having to jump my AC amplifier (via the yellow to black/white wire mentioned above) back when I had my green 62 (Princess) with the 4BT. It worked fine.

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David Gonzalez
__________________________________________________
"Yeti" 1994 4BT80 Cummins 4BTA Powered 80 Series, 4" OME lift, 315 BFG MT KM2's, Locked, AATLAS'd, Wagon Racked, Slee'd, Junk'd
"Machete" 1979 FJ40 from South America-SOA, 35's, 4x4 Labs Frombe Hi-Steer
Ghosts:1993 FZJ80 White, 1993 FZJ80 Green, 1991 4BTJ62 "Princess", 2000 UZJ100 "Penny"

 

[doug720]

Dougal
Forum Lifer



Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Kiwiland
Posts: 3,307


One of the best parts about my current setup is a dash adjustable thermostat on the evaporator. Slide it along to your comfort level and it holds the outlet temp steady.

I have hacked into the AC system on my work car to give it a four position switch (std, colder, colder still and arctic breeze). The factory AC in that was putting out air at 10C. Which is fine for defogging windows, but isn't enough to cool down a hot car in summer.

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VOODOO Engineering: Doing it first time with one clay doll, not four times with two.

 

[doug720]

FIXED MY AC!

I checked things out again today and had the same problem, it worked a few minutes, then the compressor clutch wont engage. While messing around the with the plug to AC amplifier, it made the clutch lock up, but I could not keep it that way.

Well, I decided to go see my AC guy to see what he thought the problem was. We checked all the switches and electrical - all worked right, correct pressures, no bubbles, etc.


Then he started to check the amplifier and the clutch kicked in? Could it be a bad amplifier? Yes bad plug from a corroded used diesel amplifier I bought on mud! It looked kind of corroded when I opened the box, but I was assured it worked...NOT!

Believe it or not, my AC guy had a Toyota AC amplifier board at his shop! It was a little longer than the 60 board and it was from a gas model, but the plug was the same, so we plugged it in...Oh Yes, everything worked perfect, 32 degree air at the vent, compressor cycles as it should, start - stop and it keeps working perfectly!


The amplifier as I said is a gas model from something Toyota with the idle up feature, which is not supposed to work without a coil signal, but it does and I found out why!

I used the stock 2f coil signal wire to connect the hall effect injection pump sensor on the 4BD2 to run my tach with a Dakota Digital signal convertor. This sensor must mimic the coil signal and make the gas amplifier work.

This may be good news for other 4BD2 swappers who choose to the Isuzu IP rpm sensor on their 60's.

Long story, but a cold happy ending for me.
Doug

PS - The new board has the same red knob as the diesel board and has the idle knob on top! Original question...What does the red knob do?

 

[doug720]

Dougal
Forum Lifer



Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Kiwiland
Posts: 3,307


Great news.

I still have the original answer to your original question. Try it and see.

__________________
VOODOO Engineering: Doing it first time with one clay doll, not four times with two.

 

[doug720]

I'm afraid to try adjusting it...It's already 32 degrees! It felt like I could store meat inside on the drive home LOL!

I will try moving it this weekend and see what happens.

Thanks to all who gave their time to help on this.

Doug

 

[doug720]

voodoobillyman
Rookie



Join Date: May 2011
Location: Tampa,Fl
Posts: 9


On the 40 series that themostat adjustment is on the left side of the control box, with a hole to adjust. it shows on a sticker to turn it clockwise for cold. At 32 Deg. at the vent you might need to turn it counter clockwise to prevent it freezing up. It controls how long the clutch is engaged on the compressor. That compressor is better than the stock Toyota unit, the adjustment would have to be adjusted all the way clockwise with 60 deg ambient temperature outside for me to get close to that.

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1982 BJ41, 22k kilometers, 13b-t ,5speed, e-locked, FF, PS, AC, 4 Wheel disc, 37 Goodyear Mts, 24 volt M8274

 

[doug720]

Well it still works like a champ! Palm Springs was not near as hot as expected...It was only 98f!

The AC worked great, in fact I never ran the fan above the middle position all day. No freeze ups, the compressor cycled like it is supposed to, so I'm leaving well enough alone!

VooDoo, thanks for the info on the red knob, If issues come up I know what to do now. Funny the FSM does not show that knob?

Thanks all.

Doug

 

[doug720]

Just a little update on how the swap is working and our last trip to the Sierra's.

Last week I took my daughter and nephew up to do a little fishing and camping around Monache Meadows. We had 4 days of good times, great scenery, slow fishing and outstanding weather. Plus the daughter is getting pretty good with the fly rod!

On to the tech side update. With 3 people, 3 dogs, 2 ice chests, full roof rack of camping and fishing equipment we averaged 20.3 mpg on the trip. Not bad for over 400 miles of highway and mountain pavement with 60 miles of dirt roads included.

I am waiting for my OME leafs to show up so I can upgrade from the standard leafs to the medium leafs on all four corners. I think my suspension has sacked out some and with the loads, it get's a little wollowey. The picture is how she was loaded for the drive home.

Probably didn't help that I added an ARB bumper and 9K winch too? Oh Well!

Also recently installed a set of new style 33" KM2's and have been real happy with them. Quiet, drives well, they are taller than the old BFG 33X10.50 AT's which adds a little more rubber OD. Oh ya, they look good to! Very important... Plus no 33" BFG AT's until at least late August or maybe September and we are leaving on vacation in a few weeks and wanted new tires.

I'm looking for a new turbo to upgrade from the stock free floater type to a waste gated version that came stock on the later 4BD2 engines. Should be good for another5-10 psi of boost, will bolt right on, and all the oil and coolant connections will be stock, just the exhaust down pipe will have to change. Minor. But this will have to be after vacation as I have not found one yet.

Other than that, she is coming up on 15k miles and keeps on plugg'n along.

Doug

 

[Dougal]

Nice work.

As for the turbo. I've just had a turbo builder confirm the 466409 Garrett (4BD2T wastegated) has a 54mm compressor wheel. He's looking into upgrades he can offer for this same turbo to get a bigger compressor wheel in to get more boost sooner.

 

[Dirtgypsy]

Thanks for the post up on the a/c items. I am still collecting parts for mine. I am in the home stretch and hope to get it in the truck this month. Sorry if this was already answered but I am too lazy to read back through the threads but did you use stock or aftermarket compressor?

Clint

 

[doug720]

I used an Isuzu compressor from a NPR with the gas engine. Found it on a new NPR at a pick a part. The main reason I used this compressor because it uses a hose connection manifold that is common and easy to modify. The original 4BD compressor had an odd manifold that no one had parts for.

I had to modify my stock Isuzu diesel mounts a little to make the gas compressor work. Just one of the small curved arms, not the Alt/compressor block mount.

The AC works great too! We went through the desert a couple weeks ago and it was well over 100. Three people, three dogs, full camping gear and loaded roof rack and my daughter made me turn the fan to low from medium. Not too bad.

Let me know if need pictures or anything.

Doug

 

[doug720]

I have received many PM's asking how I made my stock tach work with the Isuzu 4BD2. I posted this on another thread, but thought it should be here also.

First off, this will not work with a 4BD1 as that engine does not have the injection pump sensor.

I installed a Dakota Digital DSL-1 signal convertor using the 4BD2 engines injection pump sensor for the signal. The stock ignition coil signal wire works great and uses all the factory wire connections from the engine compartment to the tach. The signal source is the stock Isuzu injection pump sensor that was used to make the auto trans shift properly and senses gear tooth count to calculate RPM's. My sensor output was 14.5 volts AC with engine running, other senders signal may be different.

I spliced the stock ignition coil/tach signal wires in the engine compartment to the IP sender. Mounted the Dakota to the back of my stock gauge cluster on the fuel, oil, water and volt side. The Dakota requires a switched hot which happens to be the center wire on the stock tach. One of the other stock tach wires is a ground, which I also used by running jumpers to the Dakota 2 grounds. One is the power ground and the other is a signal ground.

The ignition coil wire on the stock tach was removed and connected to the Dakota signal in and the signal out was ran to the stock tach signal in. All easy connections, and with the Dakota mounted the cluster, it all comes out by disconnecting the stock gang connectors.

It took a few minutes and a call to Dakota tech to get it adjusted to match my optical tach readings, but it works perfect.

Hope this helps. Sorry no pictures...Doh!

Doug

 

[doug720]

Here are a few pictures of the oil filter head I remote mounted. It is the stock Isuzu filter head with a plate mounted to the engine block where the head was mounted stock. I cut of the stock hard pipes and brazed on threaded adapters for the SS lines.

Hope it helps.

Doug

 

[doug720]

Hers are the other shots. For the engine block plate, I used the new gasket as the template and relieved the back side a little to help oil flow. The third small SS line goes from banjo bolt fitting on the side of the filter head to IP, again I brazed the fitting to the stock line. All fairly easy.

That's about all the pictures I have have.

Doug

 

[Dirtgypsy]

Hey thanks for the tips on the ac! Got mine in this last week and it is absolutely one of the best things I have done to the truck yet! 40 degrees at the vents!

Clint

 

[doug720]

Outstanding! It's so nice to be cruising around with the AC on a hot day. Even better to have the windows down and AC on while off road to keep the Mrs. and Miss happy!

Good job, but post some pictures!

Doug

 

[bluehawk]

Just read this whole post. This is awesome and looks real clean. Just found a 4bd for sale and ready to buy and put in my 84 FJ60. The price tag on the one I found is $1200. It comes with radiator, inter cooler, h55 and alt. Is this a good price, he says that it runs and is on an engine stand and that you can hear and see it run. Have been writing down all of the parts that you have mentioned and sounds like is widely available. Like some of the other guys here have mentioned, would love to see some video of your truck running and maybe some vid of it on the trails. GREAT JOB!!!!!!!!

 

[Dazed]

Did you have to change out the fuel input spout? (What the diesel filler tube from the pump goes into)

 

[doug720]

Sounds like a fair price price, especially if it includes an H55 transmission! Was someone prepping for a LandCruiser swap?

As for the engine running, ask to see a cold start and listen for any weird sounds. If it looks and sounds good, go for it.

These are fairly straight forward swaps, and as you mentioned, most parts area readily available. Quite a few 4BD swaps into 60/62's have been done now, there are more adapter choices now, and you have a great support system here on mud to answer ant questions. Go for it and post pictures as you go.

On the fuel filler tube, I removed the unleaded restricter with a die grinder and chisel. Quick and easy, but I also modded my tube to allow filling my saddle tank from filler pipe. Another option is find a diesel 60 pipe from our Canadian neighbors.

Doug

Just read this whole post. This is awesome and looks real clean. Just found a 4bd for sale and ready to buy and put in my 84 FJ60. The price tag on the one I found is $1200. It comes with radiator, inter cooler, h55 and alt. Is this a good price, he says that it runs and is on an engine stand and that you can hear and see it run. Have been writing down all of the parts that you have mentioned and sounds like is widely available. Like some of the other guys here have mentioned, would love to see some video of your truck running and maybe some vid of it on the trails. GREAT JOB!!!!!!!!