bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Thanks Doug, that help out, but when I went out to look at mine it looked a little different. Hope you don't mind me post a few pictures to show you what I'm working with.
Builds The Journey Begins... (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter doug720
- Start date
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bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
A Few More
few different angles, and yes that is just one bolt holding it in for now.
few different angles, and yes that is just one bolt holding it in for now.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
My bracket is nothing like that. But mine had the alternator on the bottom and the no stock AC.
- Thread starter
- #304
I think we have the same mount, but you still have the NPR shroud mount bracket - the stamped piece.
I have 2 spare cast iron mounts and will dig one out today to compare.
Also, if that is the stock compressor, do you have the hose mounting manifold on the rear? If not, you may have an issue as I could not find one anywhere and Rex at CoolStream said they are not available aftermarket! Only the dealer has the whole hose assembly for around $300.00!
I ended up with a compressor I found off a gas NPR on mine. It has a common manifold, though I cut the stock hoses and we attached new hoses to the fittings. I did have to swap pulleys as the gas one had a serpentine belt, but it was easy. As a bonus, my AC guy said the newer compressor was designed for 134a gas, which has much smaller molecules. The 134 model has triple lip seals and 134 compatible O rings so it would work better on my system since I had already went with 134 years ago.
We just came home from a trip to the Sierra and had nice cold AC for the drive...AH!
Doug
I have 2 spare cast iron mounts and will dig one out today to compare.
Also, if that is the stock compressor, do you have the hose mounting manifold on the rear? If not, you may have an issue as I could not find one anywhere and Rex at CoolStream said they are not available aftermarket! Only the dealer has the whole hose assembly for around $300.00!
I ended up with a compressor I found off a gas NPR on mine. It has a common manifold, though I cut the stock hoses and we attached new hoses to the fittings. I did have to swap pulleys as the gas one had a serpentine belt, but it was easy. As a bonus, my AC guy said the newer compressor was designed for 134a gas, which has much smaller molecules. The 134 model has triple lip seals and 134 compatible O rings so it would work better on my system since I had already went with 134 years ago.
We just came home from a trip to the Sierra and had nice cold AC for the drive...AH!
Doug
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bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Not sure what the shroud mount bracket is. I would love to see some pictures of a stock 1990 4BD1t with everything on it. I do still have the hose mounting manifold. I've seen some other guys that are running the oil filter housing from a 2t on a 1t motor. Is there any advantage to this? With the two filter housing of the 1t that I have, I'm not sure that I will have enough room to mount on the upper fire wall like you guys have been doing. Thanks Doug
Dazed
Blue's Driver
I got a 2t one oil filter mount and remotely mounted that to my firewall.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
A/C Compressor Question
So my question is this, how does one tension the drive belt for the compressor? Is there a tensioner mounted somewhere? Just wondering since the compressor is hard mounted. Thanks
So my question is this, how does one tension the drive belt for the compressor? Is there a tensioner mounted somewhere? Just wondering since the compressor is hard mounted. Thanks
- Thread starter
- #308
To tension the ac belt, there is a idler pulley that adjusts. It is mounted to the ear on the alt/ac comp ,ount and located at about the 7 o'clock position.
Check the picture below.
I have not had a chance to dig out the bracket to take a picture of and compare, but will try to do today. I also have the idler to show you.
Doug
Check the picture below.
I have not had a chance to dig out the bracket to take a picture of and compare, but will try to do today. I also have the idler to show you.
Doug
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Thanks Doug, that helps alot. Got another one for you, is there anything on the motor you wish you would have got but didn't? Found one today that a guy is parting out and I will be getting a few things off of it tomorrow. Small things that I need, nothing too major. It doesn't have a tensioner pulley that I need
Thanks Doug, that helps alot. Got another one for you, is there anything on the motor you wish you would have got but didn't? Found one today that a guy is parting out and I will be getting a few things off of it tomorrow. Small things that I need, nothing too major. It doesn't have a tensioner pulley that I need
If I had access to one and the prices where cheap I would get a spare injection pump in case you have an issue it will save you down time. A water pump if its the OEM one because they are rebuildable and same as above less down time. Injectors too since they all seem to be shot and the turn around is a couple weeks.
That's just me though....
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
If I had access to one and the prices where cheap I would get a spare injection pump in case you have an issue it will save you down time. A water pump if its the OEM one because they are rebuildable and same as above less down time. Injectors too since they all seem to be shot and the turn around is a couple weeks.
That's just me though....
Hey thanks Jeremy, those would be good items to have as spares. I will check and see if those items are still there. Didn't have time to look at it real close today. Will be looking at it closer tomorrow on my day off.
- Thread starter
- #312
I bought a complete spare engine just for the reasons Jeremy stated. Found it for $350 too!
If you have access to a complete truck grab nuts bolts, power steering reservoir and mount, you never know down the road what you may need. I used a ton of parts of the 1/2 cut NPR I bought to start my swap, it really helped and saved a lot of time and money to.
Doug
If you have access to a complete truck grab nuts bolts, power steering reservoir and mount, you never know down the road what you may need. I used a ton of parts of the 1/2 cut NPR I bought to start my swap, it really helped and saved a lot of time and money to.
Doug
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Thanks Doug, in the picture of this inlet piping for the turbo, what is the little port for on the side? Can it be cut off and filled in? It is from a 2t motor and interferes with the intake piping on mine.
- Thread starter
- #314
Mine did not have that port. I doubt you need it.
Doug
Doug
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Doug, can't decide what to do about my engine/trans location. Got everything together and in between frame rails, but can't seem to come up with a good location to tack in the mounts. My frame is sitting on jack stands and have half a body on the frame. Should I put the axles in the frame so I can match the out put shafts and drive shafts with the axles? I can get the trans cross member in place but once I lift the engine, it changes the angle of the rear out put. Its enough to drive me crazy.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
Yes, after the issues with clearance to the differential, put the axles in!!!
- Thread starter
- #318
As you are already relocating the transmission for firewall clearance, I agree with Mitch, and would install the suspension and axles first.
I think having the axles/suspension in place, along with the steering, brake booster and front sheet metal will give you the the best location with the least modifications and problems down the road. On my swap, I never removed any of the parts listed above. This allowed me to check the clearances and made the swap fairly straight forward. But I also did not move my transmission as you are doing.
You have lots of options at this point, but, the front diff clearance, as Mitch found out, is a major conflict item, so dealing with it first sounds right to me. Another issue is the engine height. If the sheet metal is on, you can place the hood over the engine with the radiator in place and see how high you can mount it. Since you are moving the trans mount also, this will help the PS issue Mitch dealt with.
I like to deal with the hardest issues first, then think through the little ones in order of difficulty and potential problems and conflicts. More thinking now, equals less problems later when big things are welded in place. I also tried to keep as many things in stock locations and unmodified as possible. The AC condenser, radiator mounts, battery trays, etc. This saved time and money, and allows me to use stock parts down the road if needed.
It's looking good!
Doug
I think having the axles/suspension in place, along with the steering, brake booster and front sheet metal will give you the the best location with the least modifications and problems down the road. On my swap, I never removed any of the parts listed above. This allowed me to check the clearances and made the swap fairly straight forward. But I also did not move my transmission as you are doing.
You have lots of options at this point, but, the front diff clearance, as Mitch found out, is a major conflict item, so dealing with it first sounds right to me. Another issue is the engine height. If the sheet metal is on, you can place the hood over the engine with the radiator in place and see how high you can mount it. Since you are moving the trans mount also, this will help the PS issue Mitch dealt with.
I like to deal with the hardest issues first, then think through the little ones in order of difficulty and potential problems and conflicts. More thinking now, equals less problems later when big things are welded in place. I also tried to keep as many things in stock locations and unmodified as possible. The AC condenser, radiator mounts, battery trays, etc. This saved time and money, and allows me to use stock parts down the road if needed.
It's looking good!
Doug
It could be for the engine breather connection.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Hey Doug, sent you an email with come questions about motor mounts. in post 27 of your thread here, could you give the measurements of the frame mounts where the motor mounts sit on them for the passenger and drivers side. It is clear in the 2nd and 3rd picture of post 27. Thanks a million, Ryan
