Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (2 Viewers)

[grinchy]

Rained for 24 hours and the weather changed 10 deg, 4lo warning is back.
What I’ve learned / looked into- I looked at the pics in the fsm, the 4 lo is the lower of the two powered actuators.
The center diff warning is different (flashes the center diff light, not 4lo light)
When it was off earlier in the week it was raining , so I got the center diff working. It continues to actuate even when 4lo is blinking.

So - If the 4wd computer is the boss of both, it is probably not an interior leak as root cause.

Most of the tutorials seem to focus on the upper / differential actuator. I’ll need to lookup some beta on removing the 4lo lower side of the actuating box.

I really wish this stuff was all mechanical. I haven’t gotten into it yet, but there aren’t that many pins in the plug, it seems an arduino and some linear actuators to drive the rods could be hacked in there.

 

[TeCKis300]

I really wish this stuff was all mechanical. I haven’t gotten into it yet, but there aren’t that many pins in the plug, it seems an arduino and some linear actuators to drive the rods could be hacked in there.

The root issue within the actuator is mechanical... you got this.

 

[grinchy]

The root issue within the actuator is mechanical... you got this.

I was meaning linkages or chain or cable driven. Give me another real lever or two in the cab. I’ll be happy to oil those links every 20 years.

 

[1world1love]

I was meaning linkages or chain or cable driven. Give me another real lever or two in the cab. I’ll be happy to oil those links every 20 years.

That’s a bridge too far for the country club set. They prefer a button or touch screen even if it means half the MTTF and five times the maintenance

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

I was meaning linkages or chain or cable driven. Give me another real lever or two in the cab. I’ll be happy to oil those links every 20 years.

Another reason I miss my 100

 

[linuxgod]

Rained for 24 hours and the weather changed 10 deg, 4lo warning is back.
What I’ve learned / looked into- I looked at the pics in the fsm, the 4 lo is the lower of the two powered actuators.
The center diff warning is different (flashes the center diff light, not 4lo light)
When it was off earlier in the week it was raining , so I got the center diff working. It continues to actuate even when 4lo is blinking.

So - If the 4wd computer is the boss of both, it is probably not an interior leak as root cause.

Most of the tutorials seem to focus on the upper / differential actuator. I’ll need to lookup some beta on removing the 4lo lower side of the actuating box.

I really wish this stuff was all mechanical. I haven’t gotten into it yet, but there aren’t that many pins in the plug, it seems an arduino and some linear actuators to drive the rods could be hacked in there.

The 4Lo actuator motor is easier to repair than the CDL actuator. Take all the skids off, it’s like 4 screws and it drops down. Note the position of the “spring” when you remove it or find the photos online showing the position. Clean off all the grease, make sure all the contacts look good (or use a bit of sandpaper if they look a tad dark, pop out the motor and clean it with CRC, apply new dielectric grease to the wipes, reassemble with the spring clocked correctly, reinstall screws, reattach wire harness, profit

 

[grinchy]

*Non 200 post*
Put my homemade ultracap (2 parallel groups of 5 500F 2.7v caps harvested from a couple failed capacitor jump starters) into the minivan with a 20aH lifepo4 battery.

It certainly isn’t as awesome as the ioxus ultracap, it starts the v6 minivan fine, but more in line of a normal battery start cadence, where the ioxus spins really fast.

Cost of this
Capacitors - free (roughly $60 at Amazon)
Lfp 20aH Battery - $50
Box and wires and terminals- $20
$130 to build without free stuff, $70 with free stuff

Cost of the Ioxus ultracap version in the lx570
Ultracap - $140
Lfp 36aH battery - $100
Wires - $20
$260

I’ll use both over the winter and report back with some use.

 

[Adrenaline6]

Just double checking with you @grinchy. Are these the deflators you went with on your AlphaEqpt wheels installed in the primary hole and regular valves and TPMS in guarded hole?
Thanks ahead of time!

Rapid Precision Valve [STD]

This innovative, patent-pending fast deflation tire valve allows you to quickly dump street air pressure to your preferred off-road pressure. APEX Performance Rapid Precision Valve. Tire Valve | Tire Deflator | Off Road | Jeep JK JL JT | Toyota | Ford | Chevy | Dodge | Subaru

www.apexdesignsusa.com

 

[grinchy]

Just double checking with you @grinchy. Are these the deflators you went with on your AlphaEqpt wheels installed in the primary hole and regular valves and TPMS in guarded hole?
Thanks ahead of time!

Rapid Precision Valve [STD]

This innovative, patent-pending fast deflation tire valve allows you to quickly dump street air pressure to your preferred off-road pressure. APEX Performance Rapid Precision Valve. Tire Valve | Tire Deflator | Off Road | Jeep JK JL JT | Toyota | Ford | Chevy | Dodge | Subaru

www.apexdesignsusa.com

Yep. Standard.

 

[grinchy]

Played a little with the 4lo error today. Car had 40 minutes of city driving on it. So warm.
Start/restart shift in N or P didn’t clear the error. No actual shift performed.
Cleared the codes with a obdii and OBD fusion.

Had a couple evap codes from taking the charcoal can off to put in the new battery, and a couple codes I assume were 4 lo.

No lights on dash.

Turn off/on no lights in dash.

Shift into N and 4lo. Activated 4lo and no errors.

Drove a few 100 ft and shifted back to N and 4hi. Got the lights on dash, but shifted to 4hi.

Restart cleared the lights on dash.

Ill be doing some 4lo exercise for a week or so and hope to get it back to no lights and shifting correctly.

 

[grinchy]

The plot thickens with the 4lo codes.

First, I am getting recurring evap codes. This means when I last moved the canister (a few weeks ago), something didn’t get put back happy. Prime candidates are the evap in pipe (broke a clip), and the plug in (moved to a new orientation).

That explains the check engine light.

On the 4lo, it is engaging, and throwing an error on disengage. That error isn’t registered as a code, but shows ABS solid, 4lo blinking, and then the triangle light.

I was smart enough to screenshot the evap codes.



Fun times!

 

[linuxgod]

You probably have FSM access but just in case here's the info on those first 2 codes

 

[grinchy]

dropped a cylinder on the commute this morning. Was halfway so went ahead and got to the office.

Cylinder 8 went out after about 10 min, around 25mph, on a normal acceleration. No bangs or noise other than the rough running and lack of power post event. Was immediately noticeable and got a variety of dash orange lights. Cylinder was out the remaining 20 min drive.

Company is in a busy place at the moment so no chance to look under the hood yet.

Hoping for a chewed thru ignition wire. But it’s probably something more insidious.

The O2 sensor, coil, and plug are about 9 months old.

 

[grinchy]

Restart at lunch cylinder is back.
All I did was jiggle wires to the coil. All looks intact.

 

[grinchy]

Here’s the dtc I got. During the drive the order was
Misfire on 8
Then the o2 sensor

When cleared the o2 sensor came back.

Didn’t see the misfire again until I parked at work and was idling in the lot.

After clearing in the lot all three came back immediately.

Right now no codes and engines warm. Spirited throttle in park didn’t create a code.

No root cause yet.

 

[tbisaacs]

I had this happen but was less abrupt. Had a couple intermittent but hard misses that I actually though was torque converter but it ended up being #8 coil. Never what got a code though.

 

[grinchy]

I had this happen but was less abrupt. Had a couple intermittent but hard misses that I actually though was torque converter but it ended up being #8 coil. Never what got a code though.

Have a spare coil (kept 2 after the swap), may toss one in the box in case it happens again. #8 isn’t great to change on the go, but we’re there is a will there’s a way

 

[grinchy]

Another 25 miles of mixed driving to get home. Nary a stutter light or issue.

I guess computer glitch until it happens again

 

[linuxgod]

Another 25 miles of mixed driving to get home. Nary a stutter light or issue.

I guess computer glitch until it happens again

Fingers crossed for you it was something loose and has resolved itself. Searching for that code I see two others who have had the same code but utimately a much different result. :-(

2014 52k miles. Leaking head gasket

forum.ih8mud.com

2014 Head Gasket Replacement at 42K.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[grinchy]

Fingers crossed for you it was something loose and has resolved itself. Searching for that code I see two others who have had the same code but utimately a much different result. :-(

2014 52k miles. Leaking head gasket

forum.ih8mud.com

2014 Head Gasket Replacement at 42K.

forum.ih8mud.com

I guess that could be a possibility. will see what the future shows