Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (5 Viewers)

[grinchy]

Yep. Power resistor was open circuit. Somehow it got real hot, there’s a nice melt point on the battery top. I don’t have anymore 0.1 ohm on hand, so trying the 10 ohm for now. Riveted the new one to a piece of aluminum to help with heat.

As soon as the ultracap could see the battery car started right up.

This begs the question how to get to the starting energy in the ultracap when the battery is flat. Considering a small sla instead of a small lion.

Anyhow, a problem for another day.

 

[grinchy]

Took a short trip to buy gas and return the unnecessary sensors.
The 10 ohm resistor is too much, it gets hot quick.
Have ordered some 0.1 ohm, will be a couple days.

 

[grinchy]

Made this resistor from 0.25m of m5 all thread in stainless steel. If my admittedly shakey calcs are correct, this will be about 0.01 ohm.
So a tenth of the previous 0.1 ohm, but way better than 100 times the resistance at 10ohm.
Good news is essentially unlimited wattage capacity.
The most it will see is around 300watt.
It’s running at 10a right now and cold to the touch.

 

[grinchy]

Took a 20 minute pleasure cruise around the neighborhood to see how the new resistor fared, still cold to the touch.
Charged up to about 20% on the battery gauge, and car restarted after. Early returns are positive.

I got this all thread to do the resistor on my aborted LTO build, glad it found a place.

I wish I was better at bending, should have drawn the shape first.

 

[linuxgod]

Nice, glad you figured it out.

 

[grinchy]

Put in the ‘official’ 300w 0.1ohm resistor.

I have a loose wire on the ground somewhere at the ultracap, but I’m living with it until I get another 2 hr to fiddle with.

Kid activities out of control in February, no time to work on stuff.

 

[grinchy]

The 100W 0.1 ohm resistor failed on the minivan homebullt ultracap. I suspect it has been failed for some time, as the symptom didn't show up until it had been parked for a week, and then my kid moved the seat and ran the lights before trying to start. So the supercaps had time to drawdown. At least this time it was easier to troubleshoot. Battery still had 13.3v on it. Put in the 0.25m all thread 'resistor' and just plan to stick with that in the minivan. After charging the supercap (used the Lion in the minivan for this), it fired right up. The minivan build is all home made, no fancy off the shelf ultracap, and I think it's both more straightforward and also more reliable since it isn't swimming uphill against default logic in the ultracap itself around assumed chemistries and setup. In any case, with the allthread in place, there is one less thing to fail, so it would have to be both banks of starting caps, which seems less likely (unlikely). I think I will get a third bank of supercaps in there, most documented builds use three.

I find it somewhat hilarious integration challenges when learning what will last and what won't in practice.

WIll bend up another allthread for the truck and toss it in the drawer in case the 300W 0.1 ohm resistor decides to break. Now that all the cables have lugs on all ends (some were soldered before), it's a 10 min job to swap in a resistor.

 

[grinchy]

Oil change today at 248500. No drips. FIA lily getting the hang of this vehicle.

Did the head gasket test using RELD. The color did not change, so it’s probably not a head gasket leak.

I haven’t had the cylinder 8 codes for a bit, but I do get a stutter very occasionally at 1250 rpm when the tranny is deciding if it should shift down. I’d call it a misfire rather than a tranny computer issue, assume it is the coil on 8 missing a rotation or 2. Will be buying an OEM coil from Toyota and picking that up this week, probably a spark plug too.

Pretty glad it’s not a head gasket issue.

 

[grinchy]

Dropped in on the local Toyota dealer. They had a spark plug, but no coil.
For funsies the rig threw the cylinder 8 code on the way home. Will have to call and order the coil ahead.

Running smooth and quiet on the new 5w-30

 

[rlynch356]

When were the all plugs last changed? (I think you are at 210k-ish miles?)

I think the service interval is 120k which I think is really, really long imho... but then again most of the trucks I take care of are 80's Tech... I still do the 200 at 90-100k miles for plugs though. it was an hour or so job to do all 8 the first time.

My thoughts are if you swapped the coil and it did not move the problem, the coil is good and can be eliminated from the investigation, so I'd put in a single new plug in #8 and recheck for symptoms.

Once resolved I would change the rest of them if they had gone more than 50k miles or so.

Head gasket is fine, I have used that exact test many times.. on my Land rovers.. Head Gasket failures's are a pretty common occurrences on the Rover V8. you get pretty good at it

 

[AnyMal]

Nice, glad you figured it out.

Grinchy always pulls through.

 

[grinchy]

When were the all plugs last changed? (I think you are at 210k-ish miles?)

I think the service interval is 120k which I think is really, really long imho... but then again most of the trucks I take care of are 80's Tech... I still do the 200 at 90-100k miles for plugs though. it was an hour or so job to do all 8 the first time.

My thoughts are if you swapped the coil and it did not move the problem, the coil is good and can be eliminated from the investigation, so I'd put in a single new plug in #8 and recheck for symptoms.

Once resolved I would change the rest of them if they had gone more than 50k miles or so.

Head gasket is fine, I have used that exact test many times.. on my Land rovers.. Head Gasket failures's are a pretty common occurrences on the Rover V8. you get pretty good at it

Thanks for the thoughts.
I actually did all the engine electrics last summer. So plugs, coils, maf, o2 pair, and the other pair in the exhaust.
I haven’t tried to swap coils yet, 8 is such a pain to get out In going to put a brand new OEM coil and plug in there. The have a set from last summer that have 235k on them on my drawer, but I’d have to pull them and put in new anyway if it fixed the issue.

 

[grinchy]

Filled up with regular (usually run premium) and the stutters/miss is much more common. Pretty much whenever I need more torque at a lower (1000 to 2000 rpm) throttle. It’ll run perfect for 20 min, and then stutter up a small hill.
I did buy a coil at the local auto parts store in case it outright dies, but it’s not a Toyota part and was $100 anyway, so hope not to use it and will try to pick up an oem instead.

Also the stutter doesn’t seem to happen during engine warm up, only in what O think is called closed loop. Not sure if this is useful data but I’m open to ideas to try.

Is it an a/f sensor maybe? Or something in the fuel rail?

I still plan to swap a coil and plug, but haven’t made time to address

I did change the lion battery again, now running a 20ah starter version. It has no bms , only a balancer. Can do 480cca on its own (not that I need any cca as the supercap does starts). Using this lion so the bums doesn’t shut it off, and thus shut off the super cap , which requires an attached 12v.

So far so good, will be watching it and reporting back.

 

[grinchy]

Entering a stretch where I’ve got to drive cross state three weekends in a row, so I did this.
Replaced the #8 coil with the auto parts store coil. Not ideal, but I’ve got 1500 miles coming and it should last that long. I took out the three coolant hard line brackets bolts and it wasn’t too difficult to get the coil out. Only a couple clamp cuts.
Looked into the evap situation. Some idiot (me) had reversed the evap lines. So I think that’ll fix the evap issue (and maybe the #8 coil too), we’ll never know.

Kept the old #8 coil in the rig, it still looks brand new.

Absolutely no issues so far with the motorcycle starting battery. Though I don’t expect any.

 

[FerrisBueller]

What evap lines did you reverse? Was it in the engine bay? At the subtank? Other?

 

[grinchy]

What evap lines did you reverse? Was it in the engine bay? At the subtank? Other?

When I moved the canister to make room for the aux battery I hooked the in and out up backwards. Then it got cold and I just cleared evap codes for a few months.

 

[grinchy]

Ran great* for 250 miles
* had one misfire code, on cylinder 6 (Not 8, which is where the previous code was. I did not swap coil, but put a new one in 8, so this is an unanticipated result).
Aside from this one event, there was no stuttering, lack of power or any other symptom. Got 15 mpg which is about the best I’ve seen in the last few years as well.

So - why did the misfire move?

 

[linuxgod]

Ran great* for 250 miles
* had one misfire code, on cylinder 6 (Not 8, which is where the previous code was. I did not swap coil, but put a new one in 8, so this is an unanticipated result).
Aside from this one event, there was no stuttering, lack of power or any other symptom. Got 15 mpg which is about the best I’ve seen in the last few years as well.

So - why did the misfire move?

What are the odds that when you were swapping the #8 coil pack you bumped/disturbed #6. (I’m reaching here as I’ve not done this and don’t really know the wire layout)

 

[grinchy]

What are the odds that when you were swapping the #8 coil pack you bumped/disturbed #6. (I’m reaching here as I’ve not done this and don’t really know the wire layout)

It could happen, but I’d think that error would show on the first start if there was a wiring problem. It showed up about 180 miles later, just once.

 

[grinchy]

Got misfire on 6 on the way home. Once.
Also got two a/f sensor codes, which is new.

Same conditions as always, a more than gentle but not floored acceleration after a long time in steady state (cruise at 70 mph).

No idea why it moved to six after changing the coil on 8. I have a couple old coils from the job somewhere, so I think next I’ll drop those into 6 and 8.