Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570

[grinchy]

Update on P0308, P2237, Posted 2340.

Had one more occurence a few days ago.

Similar initial conditions, car had been unused for 8 hours, about 15 minutes into drive, on a slight downhill, with a middle bit of acceleration (not floored, but also not 'cruise') pedal input.

Lights on dash as before (flashing engine, 4lo, !). Cylinder drops. A few seconds after that the Misfire 8 code was registered. I cleared it. The engine went back to 8 cylinders, then the O2 sensor codes followed a few seconds later, and the cylinder dropped again. Misfire was not re-registerd.

I pulled over. Turned the engine off. Reset the codes. Restarted and drove the remaining 25 mintues of my commute on 8 cylinders with no codes.

Spark plug, coils, o2 sensors are all replaced within the last oil change interval.

Running premium fuel, last few tanks are Costco brand.

I have a (probably) unrelated charcoal canister self test failure set of codes that shows up every couple days and I just clear, I won't be able to get into refitting the canister until after Christmas.

 

[tbisaacs]

What are you gonna do next?

 

[grinchy]

What are you gonna do next?

Not sure. Pulling over to stop/start is inconvenient, but if it happens every few hundred miles that isn’t the worst thing ever., but it certainly isn’t great and I’m not sure how remote I’d want to be on 7 cylinders.

Still in wait and see what is next symptom mode.

 

[grinchy]

Another cylinder 8 misfire. Same exact conditions, about 10 min of run time on a cold (off for 90 min engine), coasting down a hill, and accelerating out of it at a mid throttle.
Turned off and on at a stop light, and its as if it never happened.

 

[linuxgod]

Since you’ve swapped plugs and coils but it’s still persisting, I’d suggest having a shop do a compression test of cylinder 8 along with a pressure test of the cooking system. I hate to say it but my gut says you have a small head gasket leak into cylinder 8.

 

[grinchy]

I haven’t swapped coils yet, they’re just recently replaced.

It seems somewhat logical that when the cooling system gets up to temp. It floods that cylinder? But that doesn’t explain why it goes away and stays away on a restart.

I’ll probably get the coolant tester thing.

 

[TeCKis300]

What evap codes are you getting?

It's possible this is related to that. When the evap canister is being purged, it's letting evap fuel vapors into the engine. If the vapor has a composition is not expecting, like extra unmetered air, it can cause misfires.

Use OBD2 to monitor the evap purge VSV or evap status.

 

[linuxgod]

What evap codes are you getting?

It's possible this is related to that. When the evap canister is being purged, it's letting evap fuel vapors into the engine. If the vapor has a composition is not expecting, like extra unmetered air, it can cause misfires.

Use OBD2 to monitor the evap purge VSV or evap status.

I thought about that. Keeps happening for him on the same cylinder though. I would think it would be more random if it was evap related. But what do I know?

 

[bloc]

75500 Combustion Leak Detector

Quickly Pinpoints Combustion Leaks.

www.lislecorp.com

Or, UOA is also really good at identifying even extremely minor HG issues.

 

[TeCKis300]

I thought about that. Keeps happening for him on the same cylinder though. I would think it would be more random if it was evap related. But what do I know?

I'm taking shots in the dark and I can't rule out a cylinder specific issue like a head gasket leak.

 

[grinchy]

So. New issue. Is this a starter or. a crank position sensor?
Car has plenty of power and the ultracap is full. 15 min ago it started no issues or delay
Pulled up. Parked 10 min. No crank no start.

Here are the codes

 

[grinchy]

I bought a crankshaft position sensor, will pick it up tomorrow and swap it on.

 

[grinchy]

Read the codes a little closer, so also bought a camshaft position sensor.

Have reviewed the fan. Both look like quick changes. Probably have to pull the skids to get to the crankshaft sensor.

 

[grinchy]

I find it hard to believe both sensors fail at the same time. The other causes are 'chattering' which is a voltage instability, low voltage on the battery, high voltage on the battery, or the ECM voltage doesn't meet threshhold.

All these codes have similar enable conditions. My current hypothesis is that the LiIon is somehow flat - like maybe it failed or stopped taking a charge, and the ultracap, while it has plenty of voltage, somehow isn't serving a 'maintenance' voltage to the ECM. The enable conditions are around the start button use seconds before and after.

Or one of these sensors failed and it's throwing cross codes for some reason.

Or they both failed!!!!!

But I bet it's the LiIon maintainer battery decided to peace out during the cold snap.

 

[linuxgod]

Could be a battery voltage thing. I'd definitely remove the ultracap, LFP battery, etc from the mix before throwing too much $ at it.

 

[grinchy]

Yeah. It’s interesting. The lion shows 13.3v. The ultracap shows the same.
This morning there were even more errors, including some ECM errors.
To muddy the waters torque got an update, now has different menuing, so some of these are probably legacy codes.

Here’s the cleared and redetected. I’m about to try to jumpstart it.

 

[linuxgod]

Yeah you have too many codes for me to not seriously want to focus on the electrical side of things. P0335 I've seen when my battery dies and I have to jump the truck. That's normally just a "couldn't properly read the value" error and should be transient once you jump the battery and it can start under its own power again. "Solar sensor" errors I've not seen before but that would definitely make me think there's an electrical drain or else an overvoltage situation.

I'd unhook the Li/LFP battery and the ultracap for now and see if it goes away.

 

[grinchy]

It jumpstarted. I’m still not sure why it wouldn’t ‘auto jump’ off the ultracap, that’s one of the big benefits of the damn thing. The ultracap really wants a ‘live’ battery in parallel to it showing 12v. I didn’t take the wire off the lion when I read its voltage, so obviously it was going to be the same as the cap, duh!
I think I have a bad lion that stopped charging or loose connection somewhere in the chain, will be looking into that.

 

[grinchy]

This is what has my interest. This gauge always shows a current flow into the battery when the car is running . It should also be around 100%. Today it’s showing no flow. If I put an external battery on it I get inflow.
Voltages are correct, but I’m becoming concerned for the alternator .
Another source of this being zero would be the BMS on the lion in shutdown mode.

Any how, can troubleshoot more after the 17 year old gets around to help me go shuttle the other car home. For now the truck has to stay idling.

 

[grinchy]

Ok. So one end of the cables from the parallel batt at the Bart are 13.3.
The other end at the ultracap is 0ish.
So I’ve got an open at a connector/crimp or in the power resistor.
Should be simple to get that resolved