In Land Rover defender land we use a ton of this...
Amazon product ASIN B084VM3Q2L
after all there is a "Water Ingress manual" LOL
Amazon product ASIN B084VM3Q2L
after all there is a "Water Ingress manual" LOL
Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter grinchy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #1,142
I have a coil of that too! Good idea.
- Thread starter
- #1,143
Plugging the right side moonroof drain just led to the moonroof overflowing to the right by the mechanism. It does seem to bridge and drain out the left, but not fast enough to prevent it pooling over on the right.
Sigh.
I'm going to throw a piece of vinyl over it and begin to put together a plan to fix the right side moonroof drain.
Sigh.
I'm going to throw a piece of vinyl over it and begin to put together a plan to fix the right side moonroof drain.
- Thread starter
- #1,144
in other, more positive news, the BB front and engine skids have arrived (heavy!) and the Rival container with my bumper in it has finally left port in Germany.
- Thread starter
- #1,145
Moonroof ‘fixed’
- Thread starter
- #1,146
Put on the budbuilt skids today.
Front is 29 lb
Engine is 41 lb
Came with all necessary hardware and goes on easy.
Thoughtful use of the reinforcement fins on the front to hook over the engine to support while you get the first couple bolts in.
No problem at all using with the total chaos aluminum transmission skid.
Front is 29 lb
Engine is 41 lb
Came with all necessary hardware and goes on easy.
Thoughtful use of the reinforcement fins on the front to hook over the engine to support while you get the first couple bolts in.
No problem at all using with the total chaos aluminum transmission skid.
- Thread starter
- #1,147
Took the ‘new’ 2/22 build date SLA group 31 back. It tested in last quarter of life at the Oreilly. They brought out another, it tested dead battery. They brought out another, it tested good. So. I’ve got a fresh 4/22 build date that tested good. The yellowtop is back in while I work on a battery clamp / tray that can hold part of the new electrics extravaganza.
- Thread starter
- #1,148
Half installed the CBI ditch light brackets and lights.
Used the plastic melt method of fitting on the cowl. Pretty easy.
Just need to run the electric, which will be on hold for the electric infra update.
They clear the snorkel and everything.
Used the plastic melt method of fitting on the cowl. Pretty easy.
Just need to run the electric, which will be on hold for the electric infra update.
They clear the snorkel and everything.
- Thread starter
- #1,149
Beginning the great electrical upgrade.
Step one was to find a place for the 500a solenoid which will be the host for the winch and other ign controlled items (air compressor primarily).
A couple existing holes in front of the battery on the vertical frame by the radiator we’re happy to host a couple rivnuts.
Some light Modification of the solenoid bracket and mounted it was.
Then put the new new group 31 sla in. This time I got the termination correct on the cables and don’t have any remaining battery posts. All nice and screw terminated.
Next will be laying out the fuses and breakers.
Step one was to find a place for the 500a solenoid which will be the host for the winch and other ign controlled items (air compressor primarily).
A couple existing holes in front of the battery on the vertical frame by the radiator we’re happy to host a couple rivnuts.
Some light Modification of the solenoid bracket and mounted it was.
Then put the new new group 31 sla in. This time I got the termination correct on the cables and don’t have any remaining battery posts. All nice and screw terminated.
Next will be laying out the fuses and breakers.
- Thread starter
- #1,150
Moving right along. Fuse for solenoid mounted and a plan for the positive distribution (neg block was easier to grab).
I’ve got a piece of plastic to mount the battery top items identified, but will have to run down some countersink bolts to use it.
Trying to avoid using the top of the fuse box, I suspect I’ll need that area for something else.
I’ve got a piece of plastic to mount the battery top items identified, but will have to run down some countersink bolts to use it.
Trying to avoid using the top of the fuse box, I suspect I’ll need that area for something else.
- Thread starter
- #1,151
Good progress today deciding where I want the light switch panel, and then getting that wire (6 items) and the wires for the other switches I put in the cubby/console (5 switches need 8 wires) as well as four spares for future proofing thru the left / driver firewall grommet.
Was dreading it but actually only took a couple hours. Didn’t even have to move the compressor.
Now just a bracket to fab for the two fuse box/ relay boxes over by the cpu and air box, and this install will be ready to get going.
Was dreading it but actually only took a couple hours. Didn’t even have to move the compressor.
Now just a bracket to fab for the two fuse box/ relay boxes over by the cpu and air box, and this install will be ready to get going.
- Thread starter
- #1,152
Needed tiny hands to get the bolts back in to the cpu case once the bracket occluded them, didn’t have them. . .three or four bolts are now sitting on my engine skid, but success!
Also had to use a magnet to get the bolts back in the holes, and a universal joint socket to get access.
Bracket construction was uncharacteristicly fiddly.
Box 1 is the light prebuilt, box 2 is generic and for the locker, winch control, and whatever else I need down the line.
Also had to use a magnet to get the bolts back in the holes, and a universal joint socket to get access.
Bracket construction was uncharacteristicly fiddly.
Box 1 is the light prebuilt, box 2 is generic and for the locker, winch control, and whatever else I need down the line.
- Thread starter
- #1,153
Have the battery out again to begin final assembly.
Got the ignition switched solenoid wired.
Will put this in as soon as I find the roll of loom protector I misplaced.
Got the ignition switched solenoid wired.
Will put this in as soon as I find the roll of loom protector I misplaced.
- Thread starter
- #1,154
Finished the solenoid wiring (except for split tube over wires).
Finished cubby box wiring.
Added a dimmer pot in the cubby box so I can match the dash lights exactly.
Finished cubby box wiring.
Added a dimmer pot in the cubby box so I can match the dash lights exactly.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Brilliant solution!
We've been talking about doing this to the two sunroofs on my son's land rover discovery. Disco sunroofs are notorious for leaking. Neither of his work at the moment. This solution is whole lot cheaper than dropping the headliner, fixing and replacing sunroof motors, drain parts, etc. Keeps the rain out...
- Thread starter
- #1,156
I can say it is fast and easy. Not noticeable from the ground for a 6ft tall person.
I wish I had done an 'O' (hollow center). Then at least I could slide the moonroof cover open and get some light in. Right now it's a total blackout.
I have the little cut tape stuff from a different project, just didn't think it all the way through.
I do intend to drop the (front) of the headliner and fix the drain (hole in tube or dislodged tube) properly, but was in the middle of some other stuff and it just rains too much in spring here to let it ride.
- Thread starter
- #1,157
Redid the winch solenoid today with loom.
Final install done, with the power in on the 300a fuse and power out loomed and waiting zip tied in the grill for the winch. Ran the control side ground, just need to tiein the control side 12v to the soon to get exist ignition breakout.
Installed the inside portion of the wiring.
Moved the trailer controller ground up to a different ground, along with the ground for the momentary winch controls.
Tapped the illumination circuit off the cubby switches and connected that in to my switches.
Labeled, terminated and installed all the custom switches to the new wire thru the firewall. In the end only needed six conductors, so have an entire spare wire with six conductors for future use.
Hooked it up, illumination circuit wasn’t working. No volts at stock wiring. Looks like one of the tap spade connectors didn’t slot in correctly. Fixed that and all good. Potentiometer a good idea, it was necessary to tame down the brightness. Very easy to do and probably a set once item.
Put the dash back together, and have the battery back in. New battery at 11.7v . . . Will be keeping an eye on it, but it certainly isn’t a good sign. It’s been out of the truck unhooked up for a week.
Next up is some fairly simple engine room wiring tapping into the ignition hot, and getting a few relays and existing wires hooked up correctly to run the lighting panel and the five custom switches.
Final install done, with the power in on the 300a fuse and power out loomed and waiting zip tied in the grill for the winch. Ran the control side ground, just need to tiein the control side 12v to the soon to get exist ignition breakout.
Installed the inside portion of the wiring.
Moved the trailer controller ground up to a different ground, along with the ground for the momentary winch controls.
Tapped the illumination circuit off the cubby switches and connected that in to my switches.
Labeled, terminated and installed all the custom switches to the new wire thru the firewall. In the end only needed six conductors, so have an entire spare wire with six conductors for future use.
Hooked it up, illumination circuit wasn’t working. No volts at stock wiring. Looks like one of the tap spade connectors didn’t slot in correctly. Fixed that and all good. Potentiometer a good idea, it was necessary to tame down the brightness. Very easy to do and probably a set once item.
Put the dash back together, and have the battery back in. New battery at 11.7v . . . Will be keeping an eye on it, but it certainly isn’t a good sign. It’s been out of the truck unhooked up for a week.
Next up is some fairly simple engine room wiring tapping into the ignition hot, and getting a few relays and existing wires hooked up correctly to run the lighting panel and the five custom switches.
I admire ingenuity and perseverance in rolling your own on the switching solution. Seems like a crap ton of work? If you were to do it again, would you go this same direction?
- Thread starter
- #1,159
It’s a good question. Certainly any of the 8 switch option items in the $200+ or a switch pros at $500 could handle what I needed.
I had an older style 6 switch option that was a gift a couple years ago, and hadn’t installed it or gotten excited about it. I guess because there aren’t a bunch of great places for the control pad, and even when put in a place like the sunglasses holder, it would look generic when in use.
(I am not throwing shade at these installs, they just didn’t thrill me.) the one I was given also had no brightness control, so I was very Leary putting it anywhere in my eyeline
I used a Bluetooth 4 relay / switch installed under the hood for four years and it worked 100% during that time, but didn’t like having to switch to the phone app, just a bit too much friction.
With the upcoming bumper/winch I wanted easy, well placed in cab controls for the winch, and while I was thinking on that decided to add in the additional known items I had already installed, as well as finally found a purpose (lights) and place for the old 6 gang prebuilt, I was willing to do the integration on the backend, and thought it would be a good project.
I’m actually learning loads about what makes an electrical system work and how to leverage relays correctly. It’s been very educational and a fun project. I’ve had to draw a bunch of schematics, and the more Iearn the simpler and more reliable they become. The journey on this has been really good because now I much better understand how the stock electric works, how to troubleshoot it, and how to fix it. I think these kinds of skills are really important in case they are needed when out and about, as so much of our trucks run thru an ecu or relay to do things.
Well put! I think for many of us that like to get in the weeds, it's as much about the learning and process, as it is the end result. There's a certain satisfaction in rolling your own and knowing every little detail down to the last wire.
And your end results look great!
