Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (5 Viewers)

[grinchy]

I see...i was missing the "self resetting" aspect you were looking for.

For sure, I'm not sure I had thought it through enough to get to that requirement either.

The application is the extra radio stack (Cell radio, Comms radio etc). It's something I want to run on IGN all the time, and have the option of running on battery power at camp. I don't want to put it on ACC as that would also rope in my sound system (lots of amps).
I'd also like to have it turn off when IGN is applied, so it isn't on if I forget at the next stop.

 

[TeCKis300]

I haven't really looked at many winches and how they're wired up. Seems to be different schools of thought.

My Warn winch recommended install with no more than just its control box direct to battery. No fuse, no relay, etc. Could be interpreted as no protection, but could also be an advantage with extreme simplicity with minimal dependencies and components to go wrong in the case of needing to pull?

 

[grinchy]

I haven't really looked at many winches and how they're wired up. Seems to be different schools of thought.

My Warn winch recommended install with no more than just its control box direct to battery. No fuse, no relay, etc. Could be interpreted as no protection, but could also be an advantage with extreme simplicity with minimal dependencies and components to go wrong in the case of needing to pull?

Yeah, there are definitely several acceptable solutions. Most winch manufacturers are recommending a hard 300A+ on/off switch under the hood on the battery positive main lead, but not all. Carbon is actually supplying these switches in the 'kit' box, as are a couple others if I recall. The idea being the switch is 'off' for normal use, and turned 'on' manually at the trailhead, then turned 'off' again at the end of the trip. I'm not a fan of stopping, lifting the hood, or having to remember to turn it 'off' later.

Since I'm running in cab controls, and these shouldn't be 'live' unless I overtly enable them, I figured I could add a tiny bit of complexity in exchange for ease of use.

Current plan
A 300A slo blo fuse I had sitting around from my stillborn LTO project. I'm in the if it's a red wire it gets a fuse camp, and since I'm probably going to have the winch high amp lead hot all the time the truck is on, it's a good idea in case of carelessness, accident, etc.
A 500A (continuous) solenoid (switched by IGN).
A manual in-cab on/off on the controller box ground (winch on) (running via a relay, as the in cab switch requires 12v to light the On LED, but I digress)

Control options
wireless remote
wired remote
in cab wired remote via in/out momentary (which are further run thru two relays so they can't be triggered at the same time).

Interestingly, Warn actually sells a basic solenoid solution (with a puny 120A continuous solenoid though).

While I'm doing all the winch stuff, I've relaid out the plan for all the current and future needs and will be busy for a few weeks setting a new standard in disorganized and untidy wiring solutions.

 

[SharpeCat]

There are things I am legally allowed to sell, and then there are things I can include as gifts/sneak into the empty packaging space. I took a small break from Cup Holders and made some Sponge Holders!

First test prints came out, and I am saving them for “Packaging/Support Removal” video, in case I go with the idea of 3D printing the packaging to go with it. I might make a lid to go on top, and engrave the shipping label/opening instructions “QR” code on the lid. You can also keep the lid and use it as a lid!

-Sharpe

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OH MY GOD. I just realized i put this in the wrong thread! Must have had 2 different tabs open for this and the DIY cup holder thread. Sorry boss, and surprised no one pointed this out. I only noticed because someone reacted to it!

 

[purdytj]

OH MY GOD. I just realized i put this in the wrong thread! Must have had 2 different tabs open for this and the DIY cup holder thread. Sorry boss, and surprised no one pointed this out. I only noticed because someone reacted to it!

Yeah, I like that cup holder

 

[SharpeCat]

Yeah, I like that cup holder

Maybe grinchy will try out the one I send him seeing as how he was involuntarily volunteered for quality inspection guy! Once we get his and @TeCKis300 thumbs up we will put into production.

 

[grinchy]

Cbi ditch light brackets are in house. bB skids shipped and should be here this week sometime.
Just about done collecting parts for the new electrical updates. Hopefully it won’t rain next weekend and I can get all this stuff installed.

 

[grinchy]

Have a start / die condition today. Range shows 51 miles . . . Got a 4 wheel ahc code.
Remembered there was some wacky weather while we were out of state
Found a cup plus of water in the passenger rail, carper pad soaked all the way back under the front seat.
Looks like it’ll take a couple days to dry out.
Looks like overflowing sunroof drain again. I tried to clean them with the doubled trimmer line last month, and the six foot cable/drain wire too. They both ran free.
Frustrated!

 

[grinchy]

Got the carpet up and the rail dry. Connector stack in right a pillar dried out. No run condition is no longer present and no recurring dtc.
Still squeezing water out of the carpet pad and have air dryer going. Seems to have come in from the b pillar as well as the a pillar, and probably some direct down from the sunroof tray onto the dash.
Crazy!

 

[tbisaacs]

Ugh, the worst.

 

[grinchy]

I’m about to vinyl over the sunroof until I get a chance to fix it. Today would have been perfect but kid had a birthday party and we were getting back in town after a week out. I think it’s a 4+ hour repair based on how slow I am and some professional YouTube reaearch

 

[supercarrera]

Looks like overflowing sunroof drain again. I tried to clean them with the doubled trimmer line last month, and the six foot cable/drain wire too. They both ran free.
Frustrated!

Unfortunately I think it doesn't take much to clog those drains. A couple months ago my sunroof drain was clogged with a tiny leaf or something. I just had to touch it for it to clear.

Did you check your seat heater? Mine burned out when when I went through this.

 

[grinchy]

Sprinkle overnight, another 1/4 cup of water in the passenger rail.
It's sprinkling again, I have a steady drip at the far right of the A-pillar where it meets the door, the very bottom of the A pillar trim at the plastic side cover is wet. Water obviously running down the a pillar from somewhere.
No new holes in my truck . . .
Sunroof tray is dry, so it's a different source.

 

[tbisaacs]

Sprinkle overnight, another 1/4 cup of water in the passenger rail.
It's sprinkling again, I have a steady drip at the far right of the A-pillar where it meets the door, the very bottom of the A pillar trim at the plastic side cover is wet. Water obviously running down the a pillar from somewhere.
No new holes in my truck . . .
Sunroof tray is dry, so it's a different source.

Windshield?

 

[grinchy]

Windshield?

possibly! I'm leaning roof rack. i bet i have debris from the pine tree spring in the tracks.

 

[grinchy]

Here’s the drip.
At lunch I’ll try some water pouring experiments on the windshield and roof rack feet.

 

[tbisaacs]

possibly! I'm leaning roof rack. i bet i have debris from the pine tree spring in the tracks.

I've had water intrusion in my Prinsu rack that went away after I cleared the pine needles from the gutter (and re-silicone the mount). My rubber gutter guards had blown away allowing debris to build up there and stay wet for weeks at a time. Fingers crossed, no issues since then other than the sunroof clogging.

 

[grinchy]

Not the roof rack feet, though they were really gunked up.
Not the windshield, though the right hand trim and clips really does need replacing.
Was the right side front moonroof drain. I guess while cleaning it I dislodged the end or made a hole, or both. Water poured out at the wheel well during test, but that was then, and this is now.
I put a cork in it while I consider options.

 

[rlynch356]

Permatex thread sealant or green (low strength) loctite is usually better than trying to silicone up the top of the bolt, that never seems to work very long.
Neither of those are high strength and are just for sealing the thread from water/oil/etc.
The cowl is another possible water intrusion area - but manifest differently since it runs through the cabin air filter and on to the floor from the vents closest to the center.

** Be careful and order the low strength one.. there are "Green" versions that are High heat, High strength as well.

 

[grinchy]

I’m considering a ball of some tacky sealant to block the hole. Though the cork seems to be working fine. I probably just need to be a bit more careful when trimming to size.

I really don’t want to drop the headliner. I think one clean sunroof drain should be enough.