Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (13 Viewers)

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Actively looking for alignment specs for LX with 35s.

I don’t have any suspension mods (yet).
 
Actively looking for alignment specs for LX with 35s.

I don’t have any suspension mods (yet).
I can't speak to the LX but for a lifted LC you generally want:

3-3.5* caster. Typically 0.1-0.2 more on the PS
camber between 0.0 and -0.2. It's normal for the DS to set camber -0.1 less than the PS
toe in very slight, typically around 1/16" or slightly less

I would think a sensor-lifted LX would be similar to the above, and a stock AHC LX would probably get caster closer to 3* and camber in the 0.0 to +0.5 range. toe-in should still be low for big heavy 35s
 
IMO the big alignment issue for the LX is that the AHC lowers at speed creating negative camber.
Another reason why we need someone smart to figure out how to hack the AHC & prevent that specific feature!
 
Failed again to get the right (US passenger) stabilizer link out. my 19mm wrench is too short. I'll have to get a wrench cheater bar thing. I can spin the nut with a socket/breaker bar, but that precludes holding the stud still using the 8mm Allen key.
 
IMO the big alignment issue for the LX is that the AHC lowers at speed creating negative camber.

Curious what issue you're having as a result of this?
 
Curious what issue you're having as a result of this?

Accelerated wear if you aren’t on top of rotations.

My Rivian does same thing but suspension allows to keep height control on but leveling at speed off (except for highest setting)
 
Accelerated wear if you aren’t on top of rotations.

My Rivian does same thing but suspension allows to keep height control on but leveling at speed off (except for highest setting)

Are you getting wear on the inside or outside shoulder of the tire? There's some tweaks that can be made depending.
 

You might be able to benefit from slightly more static toe-in in your alignment.

Maybe counter intuitive, but camber doesn't wear tires as greatly as most believe. I can say this having run through tons of sets of tires in lowered cars with aggressive camber while still getting solid tire wear. It's really bad toe (perhaps moreso in combination with camber) that wears tires. Toe can be used to compensate for camber wear to a degree.

When AHC lowers at speed, yes it gets some more camber, but it also tends to toe-out. It's the latter that is more significant for tire wear. And why a touch more toe in can make for more neutral wear. How much more depends on how aggressive the sensor lift is and how much toe change the geometry experiences when lowering at speed. My tires wear is even on my LX and IMO, lowering at speed has several nice benefits.
 
You might be able to benefit from slightly more static toe-in in your alignment.

Maybe counter intuitive, but camber doesn't wear tires as greatly as most believe. I can say this having run through tons of sets of tires in lowered cars with aggressive camber while still getting solid tire wear. It's really bad toe (perhaps moreso in combination with camber) that wears tires. Toe can be used to compensate for camber wear to a degree.

When AHC lowers at speed, yes it gets some more camber, but it also tends to toe-out. It's the latter that is more significant for tire wear. And why a touch more toe in can make for more neutral wear. How much more depends on how aggressive the sensor lift is and how much toe change the geometry experiences when lowering at speed. My tires wear is even on my LX and IMO, lowering at speed has several nice benefits.
Do you happen to have your exit alignment figures?
 
Skids were a bit wet / clean yesterday. Went to replace the other 6 coils today and found out why. The ‘hot’/ lower heater tee was cracked.
I had the dorman metal tees in a box from 5 years ago, they were one of the first things I bought. Stock t is 17mm, Dorman are 16mm. This is probably why the dorman leak. Anyhow I’ll order the replacement hose assemblies asap. I couldn’t get any hardline connections to come loose, just the tee side, I guess when I have the replacements I can cut the hoses off.

The upper tee looks fine.

The broken t disintegrated on removal and left the ends and ridges in the hose, I hope I got all the bits . .

Got the coils replaced too. And made another, final attempt at the charcoal canister wiring and plumbing beside I take it entirely out and redo the full electrical run.

IMG_6605.jpeg
 
Dorman tee on the hot (lower) side is indeed spitting pretty good. With the 4th coming not many options for parts that will be in time, had to go thru dealer retail, hopefully Tuesday. When the truck cools down I'll try the 'good' tee on the hot side and see if I can't patch it thru to the 4th.
 
Dorman tee on the hot (lower) side is indeed spitting pretty good. With the 4th coming not many options for parts that will be in time, had to go thru dealer retail, hopefully Tuesday. When the truck cools down I'll try the 'good' tee on the hot side and see if I can't patch it thru to the 4th.

Good catch, and good to know about the metal t - might work if you switch to a screw clamp, at least in the interim
 
Do you happen to have your exit alignment figures?

I don't have a printout as the Toyota's printer was down last time I got things tweaked. I had them aim for the following and the tech said he was able to get pretty much what I wanted. For context, I'm sensor lifted ~1.5" F and 1" R.

Front axle
Camber: -0.3º
Caster: 3.1º
Toe: 0.05º

Note: Rear axle is not adjustable
 
Good catch, and good to know about the metal t - might work if you switch to a screw clamp, at least in the interim
Yeah, I had the screw clamps ready for the initial install, but wanted to try OEM as best possible.
Only minor trouble is I ran out of SLLC.
 
have you seen this?
 
Had some sort of a washered construction bolt in the front right tire the last week. Was going to plug it this weekend. Decided to come out on the freeway today. I heard it hit the wheel well, watched for the low pressure warning, and got my choice of cushy pull over spots.

Decided on the spare over plugging. Didn’t want for anything during the change, but will be putting the stacking jack plates back in, I don’t have enough jack travel for uneven or inclined lifts.

Yes I had the tire under the sliders when I could, this is while switching the two.

IMG_6653.jpeg


IMG_6654.jpeg
 
Plugged the hole and remounted the tire. Put the spare back. Showed my new driver kid how to swap a tire.

Here's an endorsement for the 'Boulder' branded tire reamer and hook set I bought six years ago. Works good. I got some new plugs as part of the five year refresh, those also seemed to do the job.

Easier to swap the tires with the floor jack.
 
I'm sure you have seen these. I keep one in the bottle jack compartment for a bit of extra contact.


I don't think I bought mine from this link, but I wanted to show you what I was referring to and google offered this.
 

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