It may seem unrelated, but I'd encourage you to get rid of the battery experiment you got going on. I could be wrong and there's a different root cause, but there's more complexity in the battery and electrical system than meets the eye with potential resistance / impedances of the system. There's transient conditions that affect signals and the canbus comms which might be the source of your gremlins.
Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570
- Thread starter grinchy
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- #1,522
Yeah, possibly. It’s a candidate for sure. Trouble is the supercap should (emphasis should) improve just these things in such a way as to make them not likely. It should be the most stable 12v system possible.
But yeah maybe it’s something in the brain on the supercap under higher load or higher alternator conditions.
The circumstances of it and the other issues have me on a bad sensor (air fuel was on my list and threw codes this weekend), and it could be I got bad coils when I did that job, and they’re cascading.
but yeah, battery is pretty easy to test, aside from the 2 hours to swap it, and going back to a non cap solution, which I don’t love: the starting is so smooth, and the sun loves this thing.
I'm with Teckis, I'd disconnect the supercap, secondary battery, etc for a while and see if the problem comes back.
I'd have to go back and find the thread but I'm reminded of someone who had what seemed like a crazy electrical issue going on, and it turned out to be a burned out aftermarket LED bulb in his backup or license plate light which had shorted.
Lol the ones you copied?
Oh man waiting is paying off a bit.
Hope yall get everything sorted for me though! Lol
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- #1,525
Finally lost the starter at 250000 miles. Can’t find any record it was replaced previously .
I didn’t have any warning, just a click on next restart.
Sadly it wasn’t in my driveway, so missed that coin flip. Looks like the repair will be in the $1100 range. Due to a variety of competing costs and time commitments I chose not to pay for a 40 min flatbed and just went with the nearest shop, which we were able to roll it over to, luckily.
unfortunately that shop has a no customer parts policy, so my shelf starter is now on local classified.
I didn’t have any warning, just a click on next restart.
Sadly it wasn’t in my driveway, so missed that coin flip. Looks like the repair will be in the $1100 range. Due to a variety of competing costs and time commitments I chose not to pay for a 40 min flatbed and just went with the nearest shop, which we were able to roll it over to, luckily.
unfortunately that shop has a no customer parts policy, so my shelf starter is now on local classified.
Did you at least use OEM? Job done? That’s some cajones you have using some rando shop.
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- #1,527
Yes, they’re getting the starter from the local Toyota dealer.
Luckily this shop has done several starters on the 5.7l engine, one a tlc the others tundras and sequoias.
I’m not able to put in the 12 hours right now, it’d take me weeks. And I can’t have the car down that long.
It’ll still be a few days before the repair is complete since they won’t use the shiny starter sitting in the 2nd row footwell.
I shopped around and with having the starter only a few shops would use it and they wanted to charge a convenience fee, my roadside assistance was still going to be several hundred for the transport, and the truck was just in a random business parking lot and needed to be moved asap. Put it all together and I’m ok with this, assuming the truck starts afterwards of course.
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Glad they have experience. Sounds like you need AAA. I paid something like $99 on Black Friday for their platinum for my wife and I. Up to 200 mile tow per year.
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- #1,529
Sure that can help, but it can also add up over many years. I have coverage thru a CC but in general there were a bunch of less than optimal choices around total cost that made them all generally the same.
Bottom line this is one of those things that if it doesn’t happen in your driveway will was to some additional costs.
I’m super glad it didn’t happen out on a trail.
Were you able to try the screwdriver trick? I haven’t outfitted the truck with one, but I was planning to if it’s pretty likely it will help.
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- #1,531
No. I didn’t. I was alone and couldn’t get line of sight to the starter in the business parking lot.
I have considered a remote solenoid, but with the shop doing the install that won’t be happening.
If it’s good for another 250000 miles/15 years I’ll be ok with it. If the new starter bails on me in four years , I’ll wish I’d done something differently.
The remote solenoid was also in my plans. I have a spare starter on the shelf as well. Probably need to start putting some plans into action.
I want to see a video of someone doing the "screwdriver trick" on a 200 series. There isn't as much room as a tunrda/sequoia. I'm sure it's possible but only in a narrow range of circumstances. Or I'm the problem, it's me.
I contorted myself like a circus performer for hours to get the starter out and that was with wheel off, exhaust unbolted and coolant lines moved out of the way. The starter itself has a protective shield over the power lead that is really finicky—in fact I had to remove the starter a couple of times because it kept snapping open.
I contorted myself like a circus performer for hours to get the starter out and that was with wheel off, exhaust unbolted and coolant lines moved out of the way. The starter itself has a protective shield over the power lead that is really finicky—in fact I had to remove the starter a couple of times because it kept snapping open.
dubyahard
SILVER Star
Concur. That thing is buried.
- Thread starter
- #1,535
Have the truck again. Round numbers.
$700 labor
$400 parts.
I got a new Toyota starter and exhaust manifold gaskets. No mention of stud replacement, so I assume they didn’t.
$700 labor
$400 parts.
I got a new Toyota starter and exhaust manifold gaskets. No mention of stud replacement, so I assume they didn’t.
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- #1,536
Added new fresh from dealership coils on 8 and 6.
8 initially had the code, I replaced it with generic coil and code moved to six.
Now generic coil is back in box and I am curious if code moves to 4.
8 initially had the code, I replaced it with generic coil and code moved to six.
Now generic coil is back in box and I am curious if code moves to 4.
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- #1,537
No new misfires.
Have been running premium plus techron for the last 40 gallons to make sure injectors are as good as they can get.
Figure I got some bum coils failing at 15k use, will be replacing the remaining 6 as well just to be sure.
Only codes I have left are on the evap canister, which I believe is a failed extension cable from the rear to front.
New starter is starting fine.
Have been running premium plus techron for the last 40 gallons to make sure injectors are as good as they can get.
Figure I got some bum coils failing at 15k use, will be replacing the remaining 6 as well just to be sure.
Only codes I have left are on the evap canister, which I believe is a failed extension cable from the rear to front.
New starter is starting fine.
I used this stranded cable (after our prior discussions about what cabling to use):
It's pretty expensive ($215 + $30 shipping), but the $ / foot ($245 for 30M length = roughly $2.50 / foot) actually is not too bad considering it's stranded, oil-resistant, and UV-resistant (designed for outdoor use). It has wire & foil shielding, too, which is not needed for this application, but I figure the shielding should at least help spread out the heat from any potential hot spots. I still have a bunch of it left over, let me know if you want me to ship you some length of it (for the original $ / foot price I paid).
I think your model year's evap canister has fewer wires than mine does, though? Mine has 7 wires. If yours has fewer, then you can probably find a ton of similar stranded & outdoor options for a lot cheaper on Amazon. I remember seeing a bunch of 4- and 5-wire options on Amazon back when I was looking.
- Thread starter
- #1,539
Looked out the windshield today and didn’t see a ditch light.
The nut had gone missing? Light hanging by the power wire.
Zip tied it on for the trip to HW store. Replaced flange/serrated nuts with nylocks.
Luckily I must have caught it soon as no paint damage visible on the fender.
Took the opportunity to reaim the ditches more ditch.
The nut had gone missing? Light hanging by the power wire.
Zip tied it on for the trip to HW store. Replaced flange/serrated nuts with nylocks.
Luckily I must have caught it soon as no paint damage visible on the fender.
Took the opportunity to reaim the ditches more ditch.
- Thread starter
- #1,540
Was feeing a bit rough pulling up to a stop sign. Like the pavement was mottled. But the pavement was smooth.
Looked closely and I have some ridiculous cupping. About a tread block wide, very uneven (like 8mm), and on both front inside of tires where you’d normally see toe wear.
It’s a shame to smoke a couple of these nice RTs. I wasn’t paying attention for a couple months and poof!
Will probably end up running my ATs while I decide what to do. It’s a total faff with the TPMS etc to replace tires on these rigs.
I am wondering if it’s suspension (nothing changed for a while) or alignment. Starting with alignment. We’ll see if it’s out before I start throwing parts at the suspension.
Looked closely and I have some ridiculous cupping. About a tread block wide, very uneven (like 8mm), and on both front inside of tires where you’d normally see toe wear.
It’s a shame to smoke a couple of these nice RTs. I wasn’t paying attention for a couple months and poof!
Will probably end up running my ATs while I decide what to do. It’s a total faff with the TPMS etc to replace tires on these rigs.
I am wondering if it’s suspension (nothing changed for a while) or alignment. Starting with alignment. We’ll see if it’s out before I start throwing parts at the suspension.
