Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (1 Viewer)

[grinchy]

Black spring rubbers FTW, at least for the front weight I’ve got - 60 lb winch, aluminum/steel bumper, steel front and engine skid.
No spring rubber was very front to back rocking. Blue was much better but a touch under damped. Black is perfect. Not over or underdamped. Size B for the front.

 

[grinchy]

Looked under the rig today, the B size on us driver (left) rear is contacting the spring correctly when the suspension is weighted.

Still same conclusion as above. For the fixed weight I’ve got, black front / blue rear is a slam dunk success.

I’m back to what my fuzzy memory remembers regarding oem/unmodded ride characteristics. <but a bit firmer all around>

 

[grinchy]

Green light bingo

 

[MTKID]

Did my best f1 pit impression today and completed a (four) tire rotation. My spare was used and has a bit more wear still. May start rotating it in next rotation. I have some uneven wear on the inside of the front tires. The start of each tread lug is 'above' the rear of the lug before it. They're now in the back, so maybe they'll even out.

Put on the powerstop z36 rear brake pads I got a while ago. The front pair seem to be stopping good and dust a lot less than the semi-metallics. Changed the pad retainers on one side, what a pain to get the pad back on. Left the other pad retainers in place. Still had the slide bolt lube from last rear pad change four years ago, which was nice. I guess I haven't had the rear caliper off since the rear locker went in (shop did this). The bolts were really tight. Had to get the breaker bar and extension, way more than 65 ft lb spec.

Added the SDHQ ABS Guards on all four corners. Used the shorter provided bolts in all locations.

Put new 'black' spring rubbers on the front. Put the 'blue' spring rubbers on the back that were on the front.
The left (US Driver) rear spring has different spacing and the spring rubber is too short (vertically) by about 1". So that's too bad and that corner will not benefit. The right (US passenger) rear spring rubber fits (same size as the front) (B). Both rear springs are larger diameter than the front springs, so the rubber are too short to go a full rotation since they were already cut to fit the front. Not sure how much this matters, but the rear install is definitely suboptimal at the moment. Airbags probably still the best solution for the rear, particularly since the spring spacing is different left to right side.

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And what’s your feedback with the black spring rubbers in there? Noticeable difference?

 

[AnyMal]

Green light bingo

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Missing eco indicator. Cmon bro. Do you even unnecessary green light?

 

[grinchy]

And what’s your feedback with the black spring rubbers in there? Noticeable difference?

Black spring rubbers FTW, at least for the front weight I’ve got - 60 lb winch, aluminum/steel bumper, steel front and engine skid.
No spring rubber was very front to back rocking. Blue was much better but a touch under damped. Black is perfect. Not over or underdamped. Size B for the front.

<phones. sigh>

these spring rubbers seem to address a big gap for modded LX users. There is no easily obtained uprated spring set for the front at all, and the springs available for the rear are a big jump up from stock rate. While an airbag is likely the best utility in the back, and for a lot of good reasons, the spring rubber can provide all the static ride/weight benefits necessary for modded rigs there too, at a lower cost and easier installation.

Draft use guide:
Front
red - one heavy item up front or want a firmer ride in all modes (skids or battery etc +50 lb)
blue - two heavy items up front (skids and battery, light bumper (no winch) +100 to +150lb) (*was not enough for skids, light bumper, winch)
black - three heavy items up front (+150 lb to 250?) (*just right for skids, light bumper, winch)
green - +250 lb (heavy bumper and winch with skids, extra modded out rigs)

Rear
Red - firm up the ride
Blue - rear bumper, one drawer ( 3/4 turn of blue stiffens up the rear and seems a good match for rear bumper + drawer and typical stuff in drawer. Is money when I put 600 lb of passenger on top of that static weight)
black - ?
Green - ?

 

[grinchy]

Missing eco indicator. Cmon bro. Do you even unnecessary green light?

Oh I hate them. But then decided to see how many I could turn on. I don’t think exo is a thing on the 2009. How do you achieve it?

 

[AnyMal]

Oh I hate them. But then decided to see how many I could turn on. I don’t think exo is a thing on the 2009. How do you achieve it?

Mine is in the meter menu in dash. “Eco indicator” on/off. Pretty sure you have it to, as I remember @bloc commenting on it.

It does nothing but i had hoped it indicated TC lock. Maybe theres a way to bypass that into the light somehow and make it useful.

I have all my lights on for the holiday spirit. Lol

 

[grinchy]

Mine is in the meter menu in dash. “Eco indicator” on/off. Pretty sure you have it to, as I remember @bloc commenting on it.

It does nothing but i had hoped it indicated TC lock. Maybe theres a way to bypass that into the light somehow and make it useful.

I have all my lights on for the holiday spirit. Lol

using the 'eco indicator bulb as a rear diff lock indicator would be a good use for it

 

[AnyMal]

using the 'eco indicator bulb as a rear diff lock indicator would be a good use for it

Thats why youre the driveway king!
Mad respect for your tinkering, you never fear a project.

I want an oem subtank with working gauges! Willing to experiment with your advice. Would there be anyway to single filler neck it?

 

[grinchy]

And what’s your feedback with the black spring rubbers in there? Noticeable difference?

Sorry, phone got me on the reply when I quoted in. Added some more color to the answer.

 

[grinchy]

Thats why youre the driveway king!
Mad respect for your tinkering, you never fear a project.

I want an oem subtank with working gauges! Willing to experiment with your advice. Would there be anyway to single filler neck it?

Yes, I think it's a possible to mod the OEM filler. I have one here if you want a core, you could then pass yours on as a core to others.

In the comparison photo, new is silver, OEM single tank is black.

The changes would be:
Add a sub tank fill bung
Add a sub tank vent line behind the cap (or tee into the current vent line, which would be way easier)
Cut off the upper vent line used previously by the charcoal canister (it vents to atmosphere, not behind the cap). I guess this is optional.

I wasn't able to get a combined gauge solution without involving a raspberry pi or similar, which IMO introduces too much failure points. The manual switch gauges work fine. If I have a reading of anything other than F, that means I'm counting down on the main tank. If I'm curious what the other tank has in it (gauge reads F), I can switch over and see, then switch back. In practice, I always 'know' generally anyhow, but verification of the actual level in sub tank is nice in that rare instance it matters.

 

[AnyMal]

Yes, I think it's a possible to mod the OEM filler. I have one here if you want a core, you could then pass yours on as a core to others.

In the comparison photo, new is silver, OEM single tank is black.

The changes would be:
Add a sub tank fill bung
Add a sub tank vent line behind the cap (or tee into the current vent line, which would be way easier)
Cut off the upper vent line used previously by the charcoal canister (it vents to atmosphere, not behind the cap). I guess this is optional.

I wasn't able to get a combined gauge solution without involving a raspberry pi or similar, which IMO introduces too much failure points. The manual switch gauges work fine. If I have a reading of anything other than F, that means I'm counting down on the main tank. If I'm curious what the other tank has in it (gauge reads F), I can switch over and see, then switch back. In practice, I always 'know' generally anyhow, but verification of the actual level in sub tank is nice in that rare instance it matters.

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Gas is the last thing on my fear bucket list. I will install supercharger myself but I am still a bit paranoid with gasoline.
Thank you as always, i will revisit this after the holiday weekend and start ordering things.

Also, I don't mind not even having a gauge on the tank with a single filler. It'll always either be full or when empty my OEM meter will be accurate anyway.
I can live with that, anything outside of the 250 mile range im getting is a big win.

Please remind me, you did NOT have to relo the canister with the OEM right?

 

[grinchy]

Please remind me, you did NOT have to relo the canister with the OEM right?

relo is required. A TLC can put it in the right wing where the LX has the AHC pump and reservoir. The LX would need to decide on a new location, I put mine in the engine bay in front of the airbox. Might be a space issue with that location if you have an SC. So you'd need another location. Would probably fit in the jack compartment, or possibly in front of the main fuel tank there is a small pocket of space.

 

[AnyMal]

relo is required. A TLC can put it in the right wing where the LX has the AHC pump and reservoir. The LX would need to decide on a new location, I put mine in the engine bay in front of the airbox. Might be a space issue with that location if you have an SC. So you'd need another location. Would probably fit in the jack compartment, or possibly in front of the main fuel tank there is a small pocket of space.

I don't know, the coolant resi for the harrop is pretty tucked, but i am installing an air system with slee bracket in that spot first.
If anything it would be nice to have the ahc system there a la the 470. Reading the fluid level is a gymnastics event.
Trying to shine light on it through the staining, i can only see it when i rock the truck with my body weight. LOL

 

[grinchy]

I don't know, the coolant resi for the harrop is pretty tucked, but i am installing an air system with slee bracket in that spot first.
If anything it would be nice to have the ahc system there a la the 470. Reading the fluid level is a gymnastics event.
Trying to shine light on it through the staining, i can only see it when i rock the truck with my body weight. LOL

Maybe since you aren't using the space by the brake reservoir for an air compressor, the charcoal can would fit in there. That is super close to where the burn off tube comes up for the manifold, would be pretty easy to plumb in there.

 

[grinchy]

Added the Peerless Super z8 size 468 chains (first found by @tbisaacs). Come in a nice zip up bag. Fit tire sizes thru 35x12.5. Played the Amazon warehouse roulette - got this new unused still in oem wrappings but returned set for $45!

Luggage scale says they weigh 19lb

 

[grinchy]

Ozcharge RM750 Jumpstarter (capacitor style)
Long(er) term review. TL_DR -> Can't recommend.

I got the first unit between two and three years ago. This style of jumpstarter works by vampiring voltage off of pretty much any 5V or greater source and stepping it up, eventually charging a capacitor bank to 14v. It is rated at 750A starting pull, which includes petrol up to the 5.7l in my LX570. The typical use is to charge it off the 'dead' 12v auto battery, and start the car. I was able to have it charge (and jump) in this way three times (across two units), so the principle certainly seems viable. The execution by Ozcharge though, is flawed.

Upon receipt, I charged it up and verified it was working, though didn't use it to jump right then. The capacitors will dissipate the charge over a short time thru self-loss. I put the unit in my drawer, then in my side wing. The replacement lived 100% in my side wing.

First unit - jumped one car no issue. Charged it off their low V starting battery. Failed during jump of second car, the unit would only charge up to the charge source voltage, rather than continue to step it up to the 14v jump voltage. A new unit was provided under warranty by Ozcharge. Total of three charges before failure. (two jumps)

Second unit - jumped one car after charging off their dead battery (10.2v) with the same failure. It put out the start charge once, but the other driver didn't give the car enough gas. It then exhibited the same charge source voltage failure while charging up the 2nd time. I put it on my battery and started my car, got it up to 13.7 off the alternator, and was able to jump the car. Total of two charges before failure (one jump).

I was told by ozcharge on the first replacement that this type of failure was basically unheard of. I think it is now heard of . . .

The vendor has been completely silent on my communication regarding the second unit failure. They have a two year warranty, and original purchase was outside that two year period. I asked if they'd warranty the replacement unit (less than two years use). I'm ok with them saying no, but to say nothing at all (via official contact email, and via the direct email I got during warranty number one) is not at all acceptable service. I won't be buying another OzCharge.

I did replace my self jumpstart capability with another brand capacitor jumpstarter. I haven't had to use this one yet, but it charges up just fine.

 

[FerrisBueller]

Ozcharge RM750 Jumpstarter (capacitor style)
Long(er) term review. TL_DR -> Can't recommend.

I got the first unit between two and three years ago. This style of jumpstarter works by vampiring voltage off of pretty much any 5V or greater source and stepping it up, eventually charging a capacitor bank to 14v. It is rated at 750A starting pull, which includes petrol up to the 5.7l in my LX570. The typical use is to charge it off the 'dead' 12v auto battery, and start the car. I was able to have it charge (and jump) in this way three times (across two units), so the principle certainly seems viable. The execution by Ozcharge though, is flawed.

Upon receipt, I charged it up and verified it was working, though didn't use it to jump right then. The capacitors will dissipate the charge over a short time thru self-loss. I put the unit in my drawer, then in my side wing. The replacement lived 100% in my side wing.

First unit - jumped one car no issue. Charged it off their low V starting battery. Failed during jump of second car, the unit would only charge up to the charge source voltage, rather than continue to step it up to the 14v jump voltage. A new unit was provided under warranty by Ozcharge. Total of three charges before failure. (two jumps)

Second unit - jumped one car after charging off their dead battery (10.2v) with the same failure. It put out the start charge once, but the other driver didn't give the car enough gas. It then exhibited the same charge source voltage failure while charging up the 2nd time. I put it on my battery and started my car, got it up to 13.7 off the alternator, and was able to jump the car. Total of two charges before failure (one jump).

I was told by ozcharge on the first replacement that this type of failure was basically unheard of. I think it is now heard of . . .

The vendor has been completely silent on my communication regarding the second unit failure. They have a two year warranty, and original purchase was outside that two year period. I asked if they'd warranty the replacement unit (less than two years use). I'm ok with them saying no, but to say nothing at all (via official contact email, and via the direct email I got during warranty number one) is not at all acceptable service. I won't be buying another OzCharge.

I did replace my self jumpstart capability with another brand capacitor jumpstarter. I haven't had to use this one yet, but it charges up just fine.

Oh no, that's no good. I have one of these, but haven't had to use it yet. I'll post an update here whenever I do use it.

 

[grinchy]

Oh no, that's no good. I have one of these, but haven't had to use it yet. I'll post an update here whenever I do use it.

Please do! I like the OzCharge design with the larger clamp, larger capacity leads that are permanently attached. The alternative uses the smaller leads common on the LION jumpstarters. It'll probably work fine, but not preferred.

The initial warranty experience was as positive as one can expect from a warranty exchange.

It seems like shielding the low amp charge circuit from the high amp jump circuit would be job one. A shame OzCharge failed at that.