Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570
- Thread starter grinchy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #1,242
Ironman no longer selling amber covers in the US. Auxbeam 7” Generic off of Amazon fit just fine.
Probably means this housing shared with the generic brands.
Probably means this housing shared with the generic brands.
- Thread starter
- #1,243
Winched and lockered, don't need two bog outs anymore. Still keeping one so I can recover backwards if necessary.
This one is NIB (new in bag)
forum.ih8mud.com
This one is NIB (new in bag)
For Sale - WA - Seattle - One Bog out and Extension and Small soft shackle
Hi - I've got a complete single Bog Out, with 15m extension and one soft shackle. It's unused. I carried it for four years in a duffel, 80% garage time, 20% trail time. 0% recovery time. I did use a 2nd Bog out for one practice recovery, that one I'm keeping in case I ever need to recover...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #1,244
More armor.
This probably unnecessary. . .
This probably unnecessary. . .
- Thread starter
- #1,245
Invested in some front runner stuff and have had it out so can report on it
wolf packs.
I got two of the 'pro' and one of the 'original'+extended lid.
The pro latches are better. The pros don't stack as secuely. The 'waterproof' and 'dustproof' feature I'm not sure i Need, I think some tape over the holes in the 'original' version would serve just as good. If the original had an extended lid option they'd be better all around, but they don't, so some very good utility is missing from that series at the moment. Pro are for clothes and camp gear, one each at the moment, but I might get one more.
The original stacks more positively, and the extended lid is really useful (using this as the kitchen box). I don't have an issue with the old latches, push in the middle to close, pop to open, but they aren't as nice as the 'pro' latches.
Unfortunately the 'original' and 'pro' don't interlock at all, so aside from them being the same L and W, they don't pack super well together.
How do I feel about $50 for a plastic box? - pretty good. I'm able to put all that random small crap in their designated boxes, which makes finding and using it at camp better. They help organize the space, and if I need one or two more to fully lock it all down I won't feel bad about it. They look like they'll last forever with basic care.
As a bonus they fit perfect between my middle row seat and the fridge slide, and I can put 3 tall in this space. They also fit perfect on my drawer, and I could put four here if I had them.
Stratchits
They're really great. Everyone should have a couple sets. Strong enough for general tie down activity, really quick to tension. really quick to untension. Genius.
What's the conclusion?
I'm going to build a baseplate so I can add a few more tie down points, or add hasps/ bolt on tie down points to more of the 3rd row seat bolt locations, now that I have the loose gear in boxes, it makes sense to finish the job and have everything truly battened down.
wolf packs.
I got two of the 'pro' and one of the 'original'+extended lid.
The pro latches are better. The pros don't stack as secuely. The 'waterproof' and 'dustproof' feature I'm not sure i Need, I think some tape over the holes in the 'original' version would serve just as good. If the original had an extended lid option they'd be better all around, but they don't, so some very good utility is missing from that series at the moment. Pro are for clothes and camp gear, one each at the moment, but I might get one more.
The original stacks more positively, and the extended lid is really useful (using this as the kitchen box). I don't have an issue with the old latches, push in the middle to close, pop to open, but they aren't as nice as the 'pro' latches.
Unfortunately the 'original' and 'pro' don't interlock at all, so aside from them being the same L and W, they don't pack super well together.
How do I feel about $50 for a plastic box? - pretty good. I'm able to put all that random small crap in their designated boxes, which makes finding and using it at camp better. They help organize the space, and if I need one or two more to fully lock it all down I won't feel bad about it. They look like they'll last forever with basic care.
As a bonus they fit perfect between my middle row seat and the fridge slide, and I can put 3 tall in this space. They also fit perfect on my drawer, and I could put four here if I had them.
Stratchits
They're really great. Everyone should have a couple sets. Strong enough for general tie down activity, really quick to tension. really quick to untension. Genius.
What's the conclusion?
I'm going to build a baseplate so I can add a few more tie down points, or add hasps/ bolt on tie down points to more of the 3rd row seat bolt locations, now that I have the loose gear in boxes, it makes sense to finish the job and have everything truly battened down.
- Thread starter
- #1,246
I had a coulometer left over from the stillborn LTO starter project.
Was messing around with the battery today to fix a broken wire on my 4a charger setup, and thought I’d install it.
Display Fit perfect in a hole I drilled four years ago so I could hook a battery clamp air compressor up easier. That was some forward planning.
Still need to fully charge the battery so I can set capacity. Working on that now with the repaired charger input.
Shunt easily adapted to the quick negative disconnect.
Was messing around with the battery today to fix a broken wire on my 4a charger setup, and thought I’d install it.
Display Fit perfect in a hole I drilled four years ago so I could hook a battery clamp air compressor up easier. That was some forward planning.
Still need to fully charge the battery so I can set capacity. Working on that now with the repaired charger input.
Shunt easily adapted to the quick negative disconnect.
- Thread starter
- #1,248
For sure. I don’t think it’ll last for too long either. Some versions advertise as waterproof, but this one doesn’t, and no idea what the heat tolerance would be., if any.
I have a spare cable with five wires already thru the firewall, but not sure this is the right use for them. Going to do some experiments over the weekend and maybe that’ll decide if it’s worth any further setup.
Was just molding in a box, so any small utility better than that fate.
- Thread starter
- #1,249
Moved the rest of the negative wires to the correct side of the shunt. Registered the battery charger correctly now.
Finished the battery charge, set the capacity to 60ah, and the charge to full. Have four or five hours of driving tomorrow will be interested to see how the battery behaves.
Swapped the yellow general leds in the bumper to sae/dot rated fog lights. I really liked the yellow ones, but they were completely useless on road. I’m going to move them to the ditch light position instead.
The new fogs have that crisp cutoff and will be useful on and off road.
Replaced a couple of the bolts and brackets on the drawer anchors. Prepping to put a cutting board in the bottom rail (similar to the sandbar, but poly, and available).
Finished the battery charge, set the capacity to 60ah, and the charge to full. Have four or five hours of driving tomorrow will be interested to see how the battery behaves.
Swapped the yellow general leds in the bumper to sae/dot rated fog lights. I really liked the yellow ones, but they were completely useless on road. I’m going to move them to the ditch light position instead.
The new fogs have that crisp cutoff and will be useful on and off road.
Replaced a couple of the bolts and brackets on the drawer anchors. Prepping to put a cutting board in the bottom rail (similar to the sandbar, but poly, and available).
- Thread starter
- #1,250
lots of driving, battery monitor survived. Reported me at 99.7% capacity after the drive, so charging system seems to be working.
I was still getting a 0.5 A draw about 15 min after car shutdown - this seems excessive? Has anyone seem this kind of persistent draw? 0.5A is 6 or 7 watts.
I was still getting a 0.5 A draw about 15 min after car shutdown - this seems excessive? Has anyone seem this kind of persistent draw? 0.5A is 6 or 7 watts.
On the FR Stratchets .. if they are still using a plastic buckle on them, I personally would not use them to tie down anything with weight...
They break.... a friends 4R rolled in Colorado and his tool roll basically became a missile... it ended up 25' away from the truck... he was lucky it went out the 3qtr window
They break.... a friends 4R rolled in Colorado and his tool roll basically became a missile... it ended up 25' away from the truck... he was lucky it went out the 3qtr window
- Thread starter
- #1,252
good to know. thanks.
<edit I looked at the FR site, they put working load at 220lb. not sure how that compares to dynamic force loading . . .>
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- Thread starter
- #1,254
New fog lights are the lower line. Low beam is the upper line (Hikari LED).
- Thread starter
- #1,255
Got the fog lights adjusted down. A good doubling of light on the rod out to 70 ft or so. Excellent.
10 hour highway cruise last weekend to the unplottable part of N central WA. Lx doesn’t ever disappoint as a highway cruiser. Had a bike race, so it wasn’t an off-road trip.
Spent a night in a campground in the Methow drainage. Lots of stars out and perfect weather. First campground in three years.
Am really liking the wolf packs.
Also have the Dometic battery water faucet/pump. Have trialed it a couple times now and it’s a nice luxury. Of course not necessary but I’m working on making the experience a little less rough and ready.
10 hour highway cruise last weekend to the unplottable part of N central WA. Lx doesn’t ever disappoint as a highway cruiser. Had a bike race, so it wasn’t an off-road trip.
Spent a night in a campground in the Methow drainage. Lots of stars out and perfect weather. First campground in three years.
Am really liking the wolf packs.
Also have the Dometic battery water faucet/pump. Have trialed it a couple times now and it’s a nice luxury. Of course not necessary but I’m working on making the experience a little less rough and ready.
- Thread starter
- #1,256
Started working on adapting a new roof basket to replace my crossbars.
Still fiddling with rail mounted brackets, but may pull the rails and build some feet instead.
Still fiddling with rail mounted brackets, but may pull the rails and build some feet instead.
curious to know why these rear bumpers aim upwards towards the wheel well.
- Thread starter
- #1,258
The rlc bumper follows the frame rail really closely. Later installations have successfully spaced the wings down further for the horizontal look. I’ve already cut my bumper cover, so no going back now. Four years on I don’t even see it anymore.
- Thread starter
- #1,259
Cooked up four brackets today. Works pretty well. Not even final tightened and solid as can be.
The corner brackets will be identical, but will have additional bar running out ahead, behind the rails to the rack foot location.
I do plan to lop the short side off the bracket, and prime and paint them before final fitment.
The corner brackets will be identical, but will have additional bar running out ahead, behind the rails to the rack foot location.
I do plan to lop the short side off the bracket, and prime and paint them before final fitment.
- Thread starter
- #1,260
All the brackets wrapped up. Layed in a supply of 5/8” washers so I can shin them to get the rack ‘flat’ (the oem rails are arcish)
Here’s the primer coat, finish coat similar, but in black.
Only had to extend the rear mount point on the rack, the front is right at the end of the rail, like it was made for it
Here’s the primer coat, finish coat similar, but in black.
Only had to extend the rear mount point on the rack, the front is right at the end of the rail, like it was made for it
