Builds The Green Bastard

[roflbox]

quite the experience today:

Big issues:

Something that had been sitting in the back of my mind did infact come true:
There is some angular distortion from my phone's camera (iphone 12)
All of the cut out locations drift radially outward from the center focus of the photo.

To potentially address that issue, I am going to think about taking 4 photos at each corner, and then stitching them together in photoshop?



My CNC said I was 10mm past the maximum allowable x Axis, need to look at the files to see what the issue might be.

Fought with the masonite and the sun (which was on the cutting surface all day)
my double sided tape kept lifting off.

Hopefully some work with the garage door closed in these upcoming colder temps will help with the double sided tape.


Medium Issues:
Little things that the door clips go into were too tight.

The order in which the gcode is executed is bad, I probably can get the total cut time down from 40 to 20-25 mins if I set that up correctly.

 

[GeoRoss]

so my current plan is to tape a bunch of graph paper together (I got metric)
and then lay out the original door card, and then trace that out, and then transfer the X/Y coordinates to fusion360.

However, I am finding that fusion360 doesnt let you create a point at an X/Y location

I am open to reccomendations for CAD alternatives, or alternate suggestions for my "reverse" engineering workflow.

Try Onshape

 

[roflbox]

gah, I think I am finally done painting
maybe can spend some time this week tweaking those door panel CAD files

Also got a 3d printer in the interim

 

[roflbox]

In the great grand hunt for Toyota oak color plastic, with the end goal being a pantone color as close as possible to the part.
Pantone colors are a widely adopted proprietary color standard.

here is what has happened this evening:

I decided to put my one year of photo school to work.
Broke out the big camera, setup lighting, setup custom whitebalance, shot RAW images, and photographed multiple interior parts.

I took photos of the armrest I had taken off, the fuse panel, and the interior of the door handle part above.

This is the armrest:

The bullseye is the area that I thought best represented the color.

Then I took that hex code to a website that would do some math about colors:

#75675c Hex Color Code

Color schemes, paints, palettes, combinations, gradients and color space conversions for the #75675c hex color code.

encycolorpedia.com

That ended up giving me a pantone color of "7596" which has a delta E of .371
(The lower the delta E number the better)


I repeated this across a selection of parts, and pantone 7596 showed up a decent number of times.

There is a company which has a pantone 7596 filament in stock, but their minimum order quantities is 2kg (about $60-80 depending on the filament)

The 2nd closest one found on

Paramount 3D - Primordial Earth PLA

filamentcolors.xyz

Is a color called "primordial earth" from paramount 3d (which is also offered in PLA, PETG, or ABS)

https://www.paramount-3d.com/product-page/abs-primordial-earth-9c-1-75mm-1kg-filament-derl7006-g09c

I am considering ABS, but need to setup a enclosure for my printer (for print quality)

 

[White Sheep]

If your not satisfied with that color, this is what I used to paint a grey grab bar brown.

 

[roflbox]

Alright, took a new photo of the door panel. This time used my DSLR, put on a 50mm lens, stood on top of the workbench, and photographed the panel laying on the floor, just finishing up the sketches in fusion now, and might try making some cuts again this weekend?

 

[roflbox]

poop
was driving last weekend, and things were fine, went to costco and filled up, went to take the LC out today, and have a crank no start.

starting to dig in now, looks like the fusible link, and EFI fuse are ok, going to start digging around further

snagged a inline spark tester, and a point to point tester

Did the test on page IG3 from the FSM (coil pack check)

FSM says that for cold coils, the resitance should be between .36 and .55, with my ohm meter set to the lowest (200) read out between .7 and .8 depending on how I moved my leads.
The secondary coil test passed though, which leaves me skeptical about the first test being conclusive.

 

[roflbox]

alrighty then.

Some interesting tidbits:
confirmed no CEL with key in "on" position.
the "bad" fusible link still passes a continuity test (I kept the terminals apart on the battery hook up side.
Looked at my AM1 fuse in the engine fusebox, and saw that it had some pretty prominent green oxidation (copper) that shook off when I rattled the fuse, but it still passes the continuity test (replacing that any way)

Something that happened only once before, but happened again this morning was that the voltmeter on the dash would not show how much power was in the battery until I measured the battery with a multimeter.
unsure if that is related to this, or another issue I am conflating

 

[Speedytech7]

I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish with your iphone camera but I will mention that lightroom has profiles for distortion correction for all iphone lenses.

 

[lumbee1]

alrighty then.

Some interesting tidbits:
confirmed no CEL with key in "on" position.
the "bad" fusible link still passes a continuity test (I kept the terminals apart on the battery hook up side.
Looked at my AM1 fuse in the engine fusebox, and saw that it had some pretty prominent green oxidation (copper) that shook off when I rattled the fuse, but it still passes the continuity test (replacing that any way)

Something that happened only once before, but happened again this morning was that the voltmeter on the dash would not show how much power was in the battery until I measured the battery with a multimeter.
unsure if that is related to this, or another issue I am conflating

Any updates?

 

[roflbox]

Any updates?

nothing yet, waiting for fuses still

 

[roflbox]

hohohohoho
put a new AM1 fuse in (though I think this was unrelated, still nice to not have a fuse covered in green fuzzies)

Cranked for about 15 seconds, and still no CEL, but kept the key on and was able to read a code for the camshaft sensor

Going to double check the FSM, and then re-load the parts cannon

 

[roflbox]

well, it was not the crank position sensor?

back to square one, still pulling codes for the sensor though

 

[GLTHFJ60]

well, it was not the crank position sensor?

back to square one, still pulling codes for the sensor though

Multimeter from the sensor connector to the ecu plug to check if the harness is damaged.

 

[Speedytech7]

well, it was not the crank position sensor?

back to square one, still pulling codes for the sensor though

Don't know if you've looked at a wiring diagram for Toyota EFI before but they're notorious for biasing VR sensors (crank and cam) against each other for signal processing. I looked at the wiring diagram for the LX450 and it shows the crank sensor NE is tied to cam sensor G-. So in theory a shorted cam sensor could also produce bad crank signal. But best to unplug both sensors and check them with a multimeter. The cam sensor on a LX 450 also has an alternate crank signal, that's why there's also an NE terminal in it.

 

[roflbox]

Alright,
My code I can pull is a P0340. (Which I now learn is not what I replaced a part for )

Reading the FSM for the following codes:
P0335:

This test is to read resistance between pins 1 and 4
(Passes in range) (This was also a test to make sure my el-cheapo multimeter was working)
P0340:

This test is to read resistance between pins 2, 3, and 4
This test fails, I cannot get a reading back from any of those pins.

Also in the process of doing this, I broke the little retainer clip in the harness to the distributor
whhhhhhhhhheeeeeeeeeeEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

 

[roflbox]

per the suggestion of the wise lumbee1
Opened up the distributor, and found that there has been moisture ingress:

 

[lumbee1]

per the suggestion of the wise lumbee1
Opened up the distributor, and found that there has been moisture ingress:

View attachment 3510315

Yowza! You could try starting with replacing the cap and rotor but those internals look awful.

 

[roflbox]

Yowza! You could try starting with replacing the cap and rotor but those internals look awful.

My new one should be here from partsouq on Jan 2, if I can get some replacement parts for the current one, I will keep it

 

[roflbox]

Tried again with the door cards, my program was a lot closer this time, but still things are out of wack / too tight, going to continue to tinker on that