Builds The Green Bastard (1 Viewer)

[FMC80]

Agreed. That is the cheapest, shìttiest, no self-respectin' look possible!

You must be a poet on the side. I’m a fan.

Also, yes. door cards. If you do diamond plate you may as well put a 3F-E in that bitch and roll it off a cliff.

Jk. I love diamond plate. Made my wife’s wedding ring from it. 69 carats. Boom.

Also I want to see your designs. My door cards resemble wet cardboard used as domiciles by meth-mouths in CA.

 

[roflbox]

I see why this isnt more popular, there is a whole lot going on with those MDF boards, and all of the other parts associated with them.

 

[roflbox]

Managed to shear off all but one of the studs that hold on a cosmetic surround for the door handle trim:
My current plan is to try out some metal inserts in a teeny tiny M2 thread

 

[roflbox]

Heat set inserts idea:
insert

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

install tip

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Screws:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

shims for shimming:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[roflbox]

so my current plan is to tape a bunch of graph paper together (I got metric)
and then lay out the original door card, and then trace that out, and then transfer the X/Y coordinates to fusion360.

However, I am finding that fusion360 doesnt let you create a point at an X/Y location

I am open to reccomendations for CAD alternatives, or alternate suggestions for my "reverse" engineering workflow.

 

[roflbox]

Some action shots above

google enough things and you find some pretty awesome plugins!

GitHub - hanskellner/Fusion360ImportCSVPoints

Contribute to hanskellner/Fusion360ImportCSVPoints development by creating an account on GitHub.

github.com

This lets me create a CSV file with a list of x and y coordinates expressed as Cartesian points


Current state of mind:

 

[mudgudgeon]

FreeCAD seems to be plenty functional.
Been trying to learn myself how to use it.

Fusion360 uses too much memory for rendering everytime something on the screen changes. ( on my old computer its unusable)
FreeCAD doesn't require a fraction of the memory Fusion360 does

FreeCAD let's you import an image (or multiple images for complex shapes), and draw over it. You just need to have some known dimensions in each pic ( hoke dimensions, length, width etc) or include a scale in pics.

 

[roflbox]

Starting to look like something, all of the angular points are from the XY plotting.
The curve in the top right and left was some guesstimation (measure x and y at approximate start and finish of the curve, and then turn that into a radius, and use the "fillet" function in fusion 360, specifying the radius.)

Tomorrow I am going to decide how I want to create points for each internal feature of the door.
(hopefully most of the drill holes line up nicely on grid coordinates so I am not guessing as much)

 

[roflbox]

FreeCAD seems to be plenty functional.
Been trying to learn myself how to use it.

Fusion360 uses too much memory for rendering everytime something on the screen changes. ( on my old computer its unusable)
FreeCAD doesn't require a fraction of the memory Fusion360 does

FreeCAD let's you import an image (or multiple images for complex shapes), and draw over it. You just need to have some known dimensions in each pic ( hoke dimensions, length, width etc) or include a scale in pics.

that might have been easier, lol

 

[roflbox]

Dear diary,
@mudgudgeon was in fact correct, it is much easier to take a photo, and then trace everything

This exterior trace, and matching of curves took about as long as it took me to cut the edges off of the graph paper, align and tape the grids.

technology is pretty neat

 

[roflbox]

*almost* like this was done by a pro

Next step is to round up some hard board, and a little bling bling for the CNC:

46200-K Solid Carbide Spektra™ Extreme Tool Life Coated Spiral Plunge 1/8 Dia x 1/2 x 1/4 Inch Shank

Solid Carbide Spektra™ Extreme Tool Life Coated Spiral Plunge Down-Cut Router Bits

www.amanatool.com

 

[roflbox]

I fixed the *original* issue that spurred me to re-do the doors.
turns out that the window track is no longer in the right location, and that the actuator can exit one end of the rail.
For the time being, I put the actuator back on it's track, and then have disconnected power going to the motor.

Still procrastinating on getting a new windshield installed.

I am also considering the following:

Running new cables for the speakers, and finally getting some good speakers in (once I have new door cards)
Sound deadening all of the doors


setting up a dual battery system
converting the 2nd row passenger ashtrays to charging ports.
re-locating the current blue sea panel to a different position so it does not hit my sleeping platform.

 

[lumbee1]

I fixed the *original* issue that spurred me to re-do the doors.
turns out that the window track is no longer in the right location, and that the actuator can exit one end of the rail.
For the time being, I put the actuator back on it's track, and then have disconnected power going to the motor.

Still procrastinating on getting a new windshield installed.

I am also considering the following:

Running new cables for the speakers, and finally getting some good speakers in (once I have new door cards)
Sound deadening all of the doors


setting up a dual battery system
converting the 2nd row passenger ashtrays to charging ports.
re-locating the current blue sea panel to a different position so it does not hit my sleeping platform.

I built two panels behind my passenger side interior panel in the back.
4AWG to distribution blocks to feed 45A connectors, cigarette port, usb, a remote controlled relay, and a 50A anderson connector. I wanted to keep and OEM look. I plan to move my fuse block and remote controlled relay to make room for a solar MPPT controller as well.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I built two panels behind my passenger side interior panel in the back.
4AWG to distribution blocks to feed 45A connectors, cigarette port, usb, a remote controlled relay, and a 50A anderson connector. I wanted to keep and OEM look. I plan to move my fuse block and remote controlled relay to make room for a solar MPPT controller as well.

Looks good!

One piece of advice. If you haven't already, tie down those wires on the panel as best you can. Copper will work harden with vibrations, and that'll cause issues. P-clips are your friend.

 

[lumbee1]

Looks good!

One piece of advice. If you haven't already, tie down those wires on the panel as best you can. Copper will work harden with vibrations, and that'll cause issues. P-clips are your friend.

Yes! Excellent point. I've got to open the panel back up again and replace all the trim panel clips with the right ones. While I'm in there, I will be adding sound deadening and will secure the wires.

BTW, so I didn't have to remove connections from each panel device (45A, cig, USB, fridge, air compressor), I've put 45A Anderson connectors in line. That way when I pull the panel away from the interior, I can just disconnect the anderson connectors behind the panel and then remove it. Similar to the engine bay wire harness connecting to a subharness.

 

[Feldrian]

View attachment 3462716

*almost* like this was done by a pro
View attachment 3462729

Next step is to round up some hard board, and a little bling bling for the CNC:

46200-K Solid Carbide Spektra™ Extreme Tool Life Coated Spiral Plunge 1/8 Dia x 1/2 x 1/4 Inch Shank

Solid Carbide Spektra™ Extreme Tool Life Coated Spiral Plunge Down-Cut Router Bits

www.amanatool.com

View attachment 3462734

Really nice looking work. Eager to hear how it turns out.

 

[roflbox]

Really nice looking work. Eager to hear how it turns out.

me too!
Amazon sent me a empty package on Tuesday with the new cutter, so the replacement should be here today.

Hopefully will get to make some cuts this weekend, going to be doing house painting tomorrow

 

[roflbox]

ouch, have 5 doors to strip and paint,
scraper / sander work great on the flat parts, but getting the details was painful, we have 2 done, but that was ~5 hours of work.

I am seeing if the furniture restoration place by me will dip strip the doors for a reasonable price.

Got some hardboard for test cuts, going to try and make some cuts tomorrow.

Still need to order fabric, and then find very very short staples (1/8"?)

 

[mudgudgeon]

and then find very very short staples (1/8"?)

I struck out on this in the past. Will be interested to see what you find.

I think the top curved part of the door card has staples folded flat on the back face, you'll need something long enough to go right through, but sturdy enough the drive through the metal and the door card, or an alternate fixing method

 

[roflbox]

I struck out on this in the past. Will be interested to see what you find.

I think the top curved part of the door card has staples folded flat on the back face, you'll need something long enough to go right through, but sturdy enough the drive through the metal and the door card, or an alternate fixing method

I have considered adhesives, but that has it's own ins and outs.

I found 1/8" staples on amazon, going to see if I can find a stapler that will drive those, lol