David*BJ70
Looking forward to reach the end of the world
Remember, the visor goes between the widow rubber channels and the metal body of the door.
the dragonship
- Thread starter kirvesmies
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #62
yup, thanks for the reminder
- Thread starter
- #63
ok, i've got a question for those better versed in the brakes of these things, specifically rear drums. in the LC repair manual, chassis and body, page 9-92 fig. 9-257 it shows 4 different springs, 3 out of the 4 i've puzzled out to where they fit but the 2nd one down is f%$kin' with me. i don't see it in fig. 9-249, disassembly, nor in fig. 9-270, assembly. or am i totally out to lunch n it's the tension spring for the e-brake bell crank, despite the line drawing not matching the photo at fig.9-257? what's really screwin' with me is i've got 4 of those pcs but each bell crank only takes one 
- Thread starter
- #64
IT FAWKIN' LIVES!!!!! i've got video proof n can't get it posted it's posted up in the faces book at truenorth toyota trucks if you're inclined to dig.
any way, to bring you up to speed, got the brake question tended to n brakes are completely done. tires went back on 3 weeks ago n it's off the jackstands. 2 weeks ago i popped out the spark plugs n gave each cylinder a 2 teaspoon shot of atf. checked plug gaps n set em, they were all about 5thou tight. color was a consistent reddish tinted darker gray, you couldn't tell which hole they came out of so i'm taking that as a good sign.
this morning spun the motor by hand thru the compression stroke for all cylinders n that felt consistent all the way round. hooked up the battery, dumped 10 gallons of dino juice into the tank, primed the float bowl with a syringe thru the vent. moment of truth "hey cliffy, hit the key" as he hit the key, i spritzed fuel down the throat , cran,VROOM! hot damn! bowl ran dry before pump pushed fuel to it. prime bowl again, fire it up once more, pump caught up, little bit of choke n pedal feathering to keep 'er idling. plugged all the vac lines disconnected for air filter removal to see if that would help, nope, still a bit of choke n feathering. so now thinking idle circuit in carb possibly gummed up from 6 years of dormancy. what ever, i'm taking today as a win n it'll get sorted
yeah, i know, wall of text
it's posted up in the faces book at truenorth toyota trucks if you're inclined to dig.any way, to bring you up to speed, got the brake question tended to n brakes are completely done. tires went back on 3 weeks ago n it's off the jackstands. 2 weeks ago i popped out the spark plugs n gave each cylinder a 2 teaspoon shot of atf. checked plug gaps n set em, they were all about 5thou tight. color was a consistent reddish tinted darker gray, you couldn't tell which hole they came out of so i'm taking that as a good sign.
this morning spun the motor by hand thru the compression stroke for all cylinders n that felt consistent all the way round. hooked up the battery, dumped 10 gallons of dino juice into the tank, primed the float bowl with a syringe thru the vent. moment of truth "hey cliffy, hit the key" as he hit the key, i spritzed fuel down the throat , cran,VROOM! hot damn! bowl ran dry before pump pushed fuel to it. prime bowl again, fire it up once more, pump caught up, little bit of choke n pedal feathering to keep 'er idling. plugged all the vac lines disconnected for air filter removal to see if that would help, nope, still a bit of choke n feathering. so now thinking idle circuit in carb possibly gummed up from 6 years of dormancy. what ever, i'm taking today as a win n it'll get sorted
yeah, i know, wall of text
- Thread starter
- #65
who in here is our front axle guru? specifically, front spindle n hub. the reason i ask is, last night i scored a set of 32-11.50 hoosier ATs on a very clean set of aluminum rims which i'd like to run, with 3/4" spacers. yes, i know i'll need the spacers to run those wheels. my query is, will the hubs from '86 to what, '93 mini truck work on my spindles? as they do push the wheel mount surface out by an inch plus on the mini truck solid axle. not done so yet, but i'll be checking if they'll even move the wms. just trying to see if i can run the aluminum rims with out the spacers with those hubs. oh, the score on those, free.95 
That beats having to pay free dollars for each wheel.who in here is our front axle guru? specifically, front spindle n hub. the reason i ask is, last night i scored a set of 32-11.50 hoosier ATs on a very clean set of aluminum rims which i'd like to run, with 3/4" spacers. yes, i know i'll need the spacers to run those wheels. my query is, will the hubs from '86 to what, '93 mini truck work on my spindles? as they do push the wheel mount surface out by an inch plus on the mini truck solid axle. not done so yet, but i'll be checking if they'll even move the wms. just trying to see if i can run the aluminum rims with out the spacers with those hubs. oh, the score on those, free.95
I have no idea if you can run the mini hubs on your spindles. You might have to be the Guinea pig and tell us if it works. There’s bound to be someone smarter than me reading this.
- Thread starter
- #68
it don't take much to be smarter than me, so yeah, i'm hopin' they're reading
I’m wondering why? Wheels are everywhere and since you had issues with brakes etc just keepwho in here is our front axle guru? specifically, front spindle n hub. the reason i ask is, last night i scored a set of 32-11.50 hoosier ATs on a very clean set of aluminum rims which i'd like to run, with 3/4" spacers. yes, i know i'll need the spacers to run those wheels. my query is, will the hubs from '86 to what, '93 mini truck work on my spindles? as they do push the wheel mount surface out by an inch plus on the mini truck solid axle. not done so yet, but i'll be checking if they'll even move the wms. just trying to see if i can run the aluminum rims with out the spacers with those hubs. oh, the score on those, free.95
it as stock as you can. I get the temptation but it will just be that forever having to source out
nonstandard parts for your truck. Just my opinion.
- Thread starter
- #70
@cruiserpilot , i've got couple 3 sets rims i could use. i like the alloy ones the best but that does not preclude my other options if my idea is not feasible. no, i won't run the spacers just to run the alloys. if i can make it happen using 'yota parts, great, if not, that's the game we play. meaning i'll exercise my other options
re: the brake issues, it wasn't the brakes. it was the dumb fawker putting them together
re: the brake issues, it wasn't the brakes. it was the dumb fawker putting them together
- Thread starter
- #71
done a bit of diggin' this evening in the intardwebs regarding mini truck ifs hubs on 60 spindles. with my limited search abilities it is leading me to believe that the bearings are the same p/n. if that's the case, that's one hurdle overcome. didn't dig into the seal yet, we'll see what that unearths when i do. i've got a set or 2 of the ifs hubs in the stock pile, unfortunately no spare 60 front axle. you know, for testing purposes as i don't want to lay the 60 up for r+d
I wonder if @cruiseroutfit has any ideas about this setup. He might sell the parts for both axles.
79-85 PU/4Runner spindles are the same as 9/75-1/90 4x/5x/6x/7x spindles. So yes, the IFS “wide axle” conversion setups can work on a Land Cruiser axle with the same mods to caliper/rotor relationship, etc
^^^
in other words, the rotors bolt to the hub, the calipers bolt to the knuckle. Picture what happens when the
rotor moves out an inch but the caliper stays put
in other words, the rotors bolt to the hub, the calipers bolt to the knuckle. Picture what happens when the
rotor moves out an inch but the caliper stays put
- Thread starter
- #75
thank you for confirming that for me kurt
yup, of that i'm aware
that's one way to get the smarter ones to read my ramblings
The concept has already been done with big brake kits like those from Front Range. The only change that would be necessarythank you for confirming that for me kurt
yup, of that i'm aware
that's one way to get the smarter ones to read my ramblings
might be the actual caliper mount (changing the spacing for the two caliper mount holes) as the idea behind the big brake kit is to run IFS hubs and the larger rotors and calipers from late model 4runners or FJ Cruisers which means running 17" rims to clear all the big brake parts. Why you would spend the time
and money on all that as opposed to 3/4 spacers, I don't know. Used hubs used to be easy to find on EBAY for 50-75 each but that
seems to have dried up and now buying new is more convenient. Fifteen years ago, the cool conversion used '02ish brake parts, like Tundra rotors,
which are 12 1/2" rotors. Now 13 1/2" rotors from a new 2020ish 4runner are available and why not go big while you're in there
- Thread starter
- #77
@lcwizard , i hear you on the bigger brake idea but i've not done anything to make this tractor faster so right now i don't feel i need bigger. also, i'm a cheap fawker n don't want to throw cash out for a nother set of rims . i have 3 sets of rims which i can use, doesn't bother me they are all 15s. sourcing ifs hubs is no issue, the warchest has 3 pair in it from the days of partin' out mini trucks. oh yeah, spacers? they're like body lifts.......building blocks n building blocks are for kids
. i have 3 sets of rims which i can use, doesn't bother me they are all 15s. sourcing ifs hubs is no issue, the warchest has 3 pair in it from the days of partin' out mini trucks. oh yeah, spacers? they're like body lifts.......building blocks n building blocks are for kids
I went bigger brakes because stock wouldn't stop hard enough with the weight of my 60, especially when loaded for a trip. I have a 39 gallon gas tank, 20 gallon water tank, both of my bumpers, slider, roof rack, and drawers. Add a week's gear and additional water and I'm pushing 6500 or more lbs.. New stock brakes wouldn't lock the tires on pavement. It was even worse if I pulled a small expo trailer . There's reason the 60 is only rated for 3500 towing capacity. As for spacers,@lcwizard , i hear you on the bigger brake idea but i've not done anything to make this tractor faster so right now i don't feel i need bigger. also, i'm a cheap fawker n don't want to throw cash out for a nother set of rims
I ran the same set on the 60 for 15 years. Since i was running 33x12.50 back then , the tires rubbed badly on the inside of the rear wheel wells. I ran 2" spacers to alleviate that. Granted, most 60s don't see the percentage of off road to street miles that mine does so the tire rubbing isn't as much an issue.
Now I run 80 axles and 35s so the spacers aren't needed. I like the wider stance, whether with wider axles or spacers. You notice it on the off-camber shelf roads in Colorado and Utah
20 gallon water tank eh? Been brainstorming water tank ideas and now I'm curious...
I did the pvc shower on the roof for a while. It’s a cool concept, but I don’t like having that much weight up top. I want to install a reservoir beneath the truck with a heat exchanger in the engine bay and an electric shower pump. I haven’t really thought too deeply about it, though I know it’s totally possible. Especially on a 60 series.
