the dragonship

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I did the pvc shower on the roof for a while. It’s a cool concept, but I don’t like having that much weight up top. I want to install a reservoir beneath the truck with a heat exchanger in the engine bay and an electric shower pump. I haven’t really thought too deeply about it, though I know it’s totally possible. Especially on a 60 series.
Man-a-fre used to import them from Austrailia in the late 90s, early 2000, They fit over the fender well inside

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Man, I was just thinking of putting a water tank there. That’s amazing.
I'd pull it and take measurements but the drawer system covers a couple of the attachment points and those are a pain to drop.
Besides, no one wants to see a 65 Y/O man drop his drawers
 
@cps432 There’s a company making a 14g tank (they have a 6g one too) that mounts in the spare tire location, with the spare tire hoist. $450 though, sheesh. I have a tire carrier out back so that space underneath, below the fuel tank, is perfect. Not sure if I’ll bite the bullet on the pricey one or try to dab something up.
 
@cps432 There’s a company making a 14g tank (they have a 6g one too) that mounts in the spare tire location, with the spare tire hoist. $450 though, sheesh. I have a tire carrier out back so that space underneath, below the fuel tank, is perfect. Not sure if I’ll bite the bullet on the pricey one or try to dab something up.
Mine was built from 14g stainless. 316 stainless generally comes in a 4x10. One sheet is about 600.00 so 450 is probably fair once you figure time and weld in bungs and such. I'm just glad I bought all my aussie accessories in the late 90s when the Aussie dollar was about 48 cents. I have 8 air lockers that I bought before 1999. they were under 500 then. My ARB/Engels were 450 for the 30 liter and 550 for the 50 liter. I paid about 295.00 for the water tank 25 years ago.
 
Damn! Been over a year since i've done any sorta up to speed with this. Been drivin' it since aug/24, went on a week long backroads crawl/camp where ever tour then. That was also my test run. Had a weird ratchety sound coming from what i thought was a locking hub. Ok, reroute trip plans, took all the trails we'd planned on running out. No sounds with front axle out of the equation. Got home, tore locking hubs apart, no issuses there, clean up, regrease n reinstall. Good trip by the way.
Fast forward to this august past. Week long campin'/ wheelin' up at Ardbeg, that ratchety sound, yup, it's there. 4high, nothing, 4low, on with a vengance, 4low hubs unlocked, nothing.
Finally got a chance to dig into this a little deeper, i dropped the front driveshaft out, put the t-case into 4low n spun the front output by hand, same sound ,all be it much more subdued. To my uneducated mind, i should not be able to spin the output by hand if the t-case n trans are both in gear. Put t-case into 4high n had to use a bar to turn output n of course scoot the truck along. @orangefj45 , i trust you might be able shed some light on this for me, is this a linkage not functioning correct problem, i.e.not getting all the way into low. Possible gear issue? I'll be honest, i can't follow the flow of power when looking at exploded t-case in the fsm so that's got me puzzled.
Another bit of info that may or may not help, just for $h!ts n grins i drained off a bit of gear oil from said t-case looking for metal glitter, nothing showed n rare earth magnet picked up nada
 
Damn! Been over a year since i've done any sorta up to speed with this. Been drivin' it since aug/24, went on a week long backroads crawl/camp where ever tour then. That was also my test run. Had a weird ratchety sound coming from what i thought was a locking hub. Ok, reroute trip plans, took all the trails we'd planned on running out. No sounds with front axle out of the equation. Got home, tore locking hubs apart, no issuses there, clean up, regrease n reinstall. Good trip by the way.
Fast forward to this august past. Week long campin'/ wheelin' up at Ardbeg, that ratchety sound, yup, it's there. 4high, nothing, 4low, on with a vengance, 4low hubs unlocked, nothing.
Finally got a chance to dig into this a little deeper, i dropped the front driveshaft out, put the t-case into 4low n spun the front output by hand, same sound ,all be it much more subdued. To my uneducated mind, i should not be able to spin the output by hand if the t-case n trans are both in gear. Put t-case into 4high n had to use a bar to turn output n of course scoot the truck along. @orangefj45 , i trust you might be able shed some light on this for me, is this a linkage not functioning correct problem, i.e.not getting all the way into low. Possible gear issue? I'll be honest, i can't follow the flow of power when looking at exploded t-case in the fsm so that's got me puzzled.
Another bit of info that may or may not help, just for $h!ts n grins i drained off a bit of gear oil from said t-case looking for metal glitter, nothing showed n rare earth magnet picked up nada
What the history of the transfer case. Has anything been done to it?

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Terrain Tamer
 
What the history of the transfer case. Has anything been done to it?

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Terrain Tamer
Nothing during my tenure. And nothing that's noted in the rudimentary maintenance records from the p.o. which takes us back aprox 18 years
 
Nothing during my tenure. And nothing that's noted in the rudimentary maintenance records from the p.o. which takes us back aprox 18 years
Sounds like it’s an issue with the front output engagement.
Realistically, that could be caused by two separate components.
1) Linkage. To narrow it down, I would undo the main lever which makes contact with the shift rail that sticks out of the front case half next to the front output flange. Then manually pull that shaft out as far as it will go. Try to drive the vehicle. If the rating noise persists, it’s an internal issue.
2) if it’s an internal issue, they could either be due to a bad detent spring, but most likely a WARN, fork and or slider. To fix that, you would have to disassemble the transfer case. At that point, you might as well do a full rebuild.
Happy to supply whatever parts and tech-support you need.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Terrain Tamer
 
1st off, shout out to @cruiseroutfit n his band of reprobates. The suspension hardware landed a week n change ago exactly as ordered, thanks boys. Got my rebuilt spring packs on friday past n started reinstall sunday aft which leads to my query. I've read that i can eliminate the rubber isolaters, which i want to as they're pretty much beat. How the #@%& are they fastened? I'm thinking friction fit at centering hole but not sure. Saws-all n cut em out, hog em out with a drill? Also, any advantage to leaving the channel in the assembly?
 
Ok, ignore the old fawker's confusion of the above post, i went diggin' n found the meaning of life. Hope to have the springs in this evening
 
1st off, shout out to @cruiseroutfit n his band of reprobates. The suspension hardware landed a week n change ago exactly as ordered, thanks boys. Got my rebuilt spring packs on friday past n started reinstall sunday aft which leads to my query. I've read that i can eliminate the rubber isolaters, which i want to as they're pretty much beat. How the #@%& are they fastened? I'm thinking friction fit at centering hole but not sure. Saws-all n cut em out, hog em out with a drill? Also, any advantage to leaving the channel in the assembly?

Thank you!!!
 
Springs are hangin'. Got little bit of clearancing to do for tne center pin bushing, no biggy. Should see the axle carrying weight tomorrow evening.
Oh, regarding my dis-assembley question, a sturdy wrecking bar, 2 pound ball pien hammer n violence is your answer.
 
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